(Topic ID: 235022)

Bally 6803 Club - All Welcome


By gweempose

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 66 posts
  • 24 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by wayout440
  • Topic is favorited by 16 Pinsiders

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There are 66 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 9 days ago

Are there any other Motordome owners who can confirm left gate wiring connection? I'm getting a "left ally" aka left gate switch closed error. There is NO physical switch on this one, I'm assuming it is some magic with electrons and the diode... my BEFORE picture shows the two yellow wires disconnected from the coil but tied together. The schematic seems to show the two yellow wires tied with the brown wire.

Also when I attempt to self test the solenoids, it only does the first three then it exits solenoid testing and prompts me to enter sound test. I thought maybe there was an issue with the next solenoid in line, the left sling, but when I go into a game and manually close one of the left sling switches, the left solenoid fires as it should.

Board is aftermarket Swemmer and keypad is aftermarket as well.

Anyone have some insight they can share?

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#52 9 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

The schematic seems to show the two yellow wires tied with the brown wire.

Brown is the +43VDC *before* the 1.5A solenoid fuse, out of the fuse comes the yellow. Anywhere it daisy chains, and passes from one coil to the next will be a pair of yellow wires. Not sure why yours are taped off there, and I can't see the top of the solenoid connections there, you might measure for +43VDC there to at least see if power is present.

The switch circuit is separate from the solenoid circuits. I don't have a Motordome, but the "left alley" switch error I assume might be caused by a rollover somewhere in the left ally lane, and most likely isn't opening up enough.

#53 9 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Not sure why yours are taped off there, and I can't see the top of the solenoid connections there, you might measure for +43VDC there to at least see if power is present.

I will measure voltage this evening, I wonder if someone taped off the yellow trying to make it "look" like the right gate.
Here is another angle of that same image. And then how I currently have it wired. Brown and two yellows are tied together and those mate with the one yellow lead coming off the gate coil and the white / violet lead it connected to the violet lead on the coil.

Quoted from wayout440:

Brown is the +43VDC *before* the 1.5A solenoid fuse

In looking at the schematic, only the flipper coils should have brown *before* connections?
Looks like I have a full night of DMM work ahead of me.

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#54 9 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

In looking at the schematic, only the flipper coils should have brown *before* connections?

Yes, according to the schematic.
If you are running coil test it should roll through all of the so!enoids, working or not, before exiting the test. Exiting the tests before all are tested sounds strange.

#55 8 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

If you are running coil test it should roll through all of the solenoids, working or not, before exiting the test. Exiting the tests before all are tested sounds strange.

Only had a chance for a brief review of things last night, I disconnected the right pop coil since the self test would exit after firing that coil and voila, the self test continued through all the remaining coils. HOWEVER I had wired the knocker coil backwards and when it got there the 5A fuse blew. I popped it out, swapped the coil leads but forgot to install a new diode, insert a circuit breaker for continued testing, fired up the machine and then the machine would NOT turn off! WTF? I spent the last of my free time pondering on how in the hell something so simple as wiring a coil backwards could affect the power switch. I stopped my work to ponder a test method to hopefully determine a solution and turned in for the night.
This morning I got out my DMM, pulled the power switch cover, did a couple continuity tests and determined something inside the cheap Chinese replacement switch I used had failed. In simply wiggling it, I heard a click inside the switch and then it tested normal again. Needless to say my next task will be replace it and then continue to try and track down the issue with why the self test program exits after firing the right pop, why do I have a Left Ally switch closed error.

I will come back with any findings soon. Appreciate the input, I was seriously discouraged after the power switch issue, some hope has been restored.

#56 6 days ago

Had a display problem pop up even after repinning the connector but thanks to a donor from Atlantis, got it up and functional so I could see what I was testing.
Long story short, swapped the right pop bump coil with another, testing now proceeds past this one and finishes as it should.
I have no idea why testing terminated early on that coil, I had a new diode on it and it ohm'd out the same as the other 26-1200 coils.
Now still receiving the left ally gate open error.
Will plug away on it later.
No new thoughts on it?
Oops found it, I need to go back to geometry, switches are a circle, coils are a square!

Now just need to find out why the new speakers have no sound!

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#57 6 days ago

I have a eight ball champ that has a weird problem. The machine will add players or start a new game without the replay button pushed. It will sometimes tilt without it being nudjed. I have disconnected the cabinet jack to the driver board and it still does it. All the electrolytic caps on all the boards have been changed. I’ve swapped the 2 PIA chips, still same thing.
Could the next things to be changed are the 6803 mpu chip, ram chip, or driver board eprom?
Thanks for any help.

#58 6 days ago

Just stumbled across this group. I'm in... I've owned a Special Force for year and a half now and looking to do a playfield swap in the fall. I love the game but it didn't get much love from the pin head community unfortunately. The other 6803 I'd love to own someday is a D&D. Not much going for it but I'd own it just for the theme.

#59 6 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Oops found it, I need to go back to geometry, switches are a circle, coils are a square!
Now just need to find out why the new speakers have no sound!

I have some nice Tech Charts for these 6803 games.
Everything in nice columns and lamp names alphabeticaly.
Here is the link to the Motordome chart:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_MotorDome_Tech_Chart.pdf
You can find it in the Bally section or the Tech Charts section.

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

#60 6 days ago

I have a Beat The Clock that I just love for the different way you can play the clock instead of number of balls and a Strange Science that I still can't get to load the Atom Smasher no matter what I do. A "someday I'll get to changing the whole flipper system" project...

#61 4 days ago

This bracket on the upper flipper of my City Slicker somehow broke, and I cannot seem to find a part number for it and I’m about to put in an order at PBR.
Any idea what it is?
Also this is the first time this game has been shopped in probably its whole life. Someone put this thick-ass grease on ONLY the ball release solenoid which was kinda wild.
Anyone have suggestions on recommended parts to order for a full shop of this game?

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#62 4 days ago

These are Bally linear flippers. Not sure on the availability of the overhaul parts (PBR did have the parts), and some folks prefer to convert them to the standard early bally flipper design. There is a thread of discussion on the subject below which you might read about them:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/toD3OB_Bjf0

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#63 4 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

some folks prefer to convert them to the standard early bally flipper design.

Discussed here too:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/11#post-1855100

Parts to rebuild also avail from PBL and Marco both.
Get bushings while you are at it, sometimes they are not included.

#64 4 days ago
Quoted from newbieinKC:

In my experience, rollovers definitely need caps to register reliably and I would bet other momentary switches (like the "paddle" switches behind drop targets) probably work better with good caps in place. I had a rollover switch with a bad cap and the game would set a new high score if you just left the machine alone long enough. After cutting out the cap, it registered maybe 80% of quick rollovers but resolved the ghost scoring issue (and would test out OK in the stuck switch test). With a new cap installed, it works again with higher reliability.

Yes, I agree. The same goes for the round press targets in early Bally. I replaced all the caps on my Space Invaders targets for reliable hits.

#65 4 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I replaced all the caps on my Space Invaders targets for reliable hits.

.047mfd ?

#66 4 days ago

Yes, exactly. You can use disc style, but I used mylar film, worked great. One lead is connected to the cathode side of the diode, and the other lead to the switch contact that is not connected to the diode at all.

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There are 66 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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