Truck Stop was booting. It would turn on and show garbage rapidly scrolling along the display. After a few minutes it would suddenly stop, all the digits would lock on and then the game would fully boot. Played it for a few days just fine using this method

Now I cleaned the acid damage up, removed the battery and it seems stuck on the garbage. It won’t fully boot anymore.

Any idea what may be the cause of this? I don’t know if this is MPU related or Power Supply related

297FD6C4-D84C-4654-9DB7-DCCBDB578051.jpeg

Just joined the club and I love it. Don't see this thing going anywhere anytime soon

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Neat looking game.. I've never played it, but was curious how some of those shots and the 3rd flipper usage must have originated a bit here, and Nordman re-used later on with Demolition man.

That board is mounted sideways. When you cleaned the battery damage, did you change the sockets under the battery?

Was wondering if anyone has modded flipper staging into a 6803?

I have a D&D, it is rare, but on occasion I can get a trap on the lower right, and it would be nice to get a staged flip on the top right flipper only.

It seems like I should be able to add or use one of my 2 switch leaf stacks for to the right cab button, and then wire this into the circuit for the second NO EOS from the right flipper which is what apparently causes the upper flipper to engage currently?

Thanks-

Posted on the Special Force owners thread and also posting here:

I got my Special Force project pin working. It plays well now except I can't make the far right ramp shot. It gets almost to the top before the bend but doesn't get around. The coils look fine as well as everything else. Tried playing with the flipper angle, the EOS switch gap but nothing helps that shot. Did some reading and on pinrepair.com it says "Note that the flipper coils on many of the 6803 games are different than the ones used on -35 games. If a 6803 game has any ramps, good chance it uses A24-570/34-3600 flipper coils (which is stronger than the -35 flipper coil A25-500/34-4500)." My Special Force has 34-4500 flipper coils. Are these the wrong coils? Do I need 34-3600 and is this the reason I can't make that ramp shot?

Just looked at my SF and I have A24-570 34-3600 installed.

I think you need the 24-570 part of the coil, as that is the "power" winding.
The 34-3600 is the "hold" winding.
So yes, you would need the A-24-570/34-3600 coil.
The manual also calls for that coil (as also stated on my Tech Chart).
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Special_Force_Tech_Chart.pdf

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

Thanks!

I did not, I reseated them and they seemed fine to me. I don’t have the equipment or skill to change sockets, honestly.

Just got in a Party Animal with a broken and missing piece on the apron. Anybody know if these aprons are repro'd or does anyone have one for sale?

Also, the frog target mechanism and both plastics are missing. Are they available anywhere? Or am I looking for a parts game?

How do you add service credits to 6803s??? It doesn’t say anything in the manual

I don't know if you can add service credits but you can put it into free play mode, under Basic Options go to Free Play and press 6,5, Enter, Game.

I have mine on location, and they have a service credit audit, and it’s populated, so it MUST have a service credit ability

You would think so based on that for sure. I'd say it's likely just one of the buttons on the keypad.... have you tried all the ones that don't enter adjust/audit mode?

What specific game?

Any quick hints on Party Animal missing sound? I get 6 flashes on sounds deluxe board. The hum gets somewhat softer and louder when I turn the pot, but I get nothing when I press the self test button on the sound board. Caps test more or less in range, but I probably need to replace them anyway. Anything else to look at?

Looks like it's a sounds deluxe. I would suggest doing a full recap first. The 4700uf cap is WAY past its life expectancy. After that there is a service bulletin for the sounds deluxe. When recapping the board, do not replace c12.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally_6803#Sound_Problems

Having trouble with a Party Animal I brought home. It will power up and wants to play, but I have no sound whatsoever and no solenoids. The error message says check FU1 and playfield fuse but both are good as are the fuse clips.

Sound - The volume control on the coin door is bad so I replaced it with another but am not sure which wires go to which tabs. I played with moving them around but still no sound. I do get background hiss with the wires in a particular position.
Also no sound when I push the test button on the sound board which flashes 6x on boot like its supposed to. Could no sound be connected to the solenoids n/w?

Solenoids - I have 43v at the power supply test point but nothing on the solenoids. The previous owner apparently smoked the ball kick out coil as it is completely melted and frozen. I replaced a 15 amp (!!) fuse in that circuit which I'm sure he thought was a good idea.
I cut the single wire off the melted coil tab so I could replace the transistor and prepare to replace the coil. The associated 330 ohm resistor was smoked also. Don't see any bad traces or broken wires. Any specific things to look at? Thanks!

You’re right, it’s the 1 and/or 2 button adds a service coin, not a credit, but a coin. So if you keep pressing it, it will eventually add up to credits.

I stopped making the 6803 power board because it had too many through hole parts and it was huge. I got notice the MJE3439 HV transistors I was using are going obsolete so it was good time to surface mountize the 5v and HV regulator circuits and redo the 6803 PS. First time really use SMT 10A1000v power diodes, SMT EL caps, SMT switching V-Reg. Tempting to use the SMT fuse holders but I stopped there. More parts I can automate assembly of, the more things I can keep in stock.

6803ps (resized).png

All good. I had to order the 2pin connector. Once it's here I will list the power supply board for sale.

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Looks awesome. I don't own a 6803 game anymore but they will always have a special place to me and I love seeing the support. I like the leds directly behind the fuses too

Thanks for keeping us chugging along barakandl!

Apologies for not following along too closely, not having a 6803 game anymore I just glance in here.
Are these fuse locations LED indicating? How cool!

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Yes. The 14v and 43v ones are on the DC side of things but should indicate the fuse is out most of time unless something crazy happens like the bridge diode blows open which shouldn't happen since the diodes are current rated ~4x over the fuse values.

The 14v fuse will be a different color than the rest on the first round of boards. I changed some labeling of the 14v from 12v to better match the original documentation and it wound up breaking a link to the LED in the assembly files.

I did not LED the high voltage. I know commercial devices that have a simple LED circuit even on 220vac mains, but HV makes me nervous. More stuff to short and blow the fuse.

Finally got back to the Party Animal. Here's what I eventually found. Sound outtage was caused by a faulty 7533 DAC chip. The cap was never removed as mentioned in the service bulletin so maybe that did it.
The solenoids kept giving me a message to check FU1 and the playfield fuse shortly after start of game but I knew they were both good. After reading all of the Pinwiki stuff I could find, it appears that the game is programmed to display that error message and stop game play if the ball trough switches still show 3 balls present 10 seconds after start of game. I had a bad ball eject coil so no balls were being ejected - hence the error message. Replaced the bad coil (and associated transistors) solved all the problems, and Party Animal is playing once more!

Hi guys I have a truck stop that bongs 3 times on startup ( check u4??) and the display says the word blue.
The game appears to be playing and sounding flawlessly just wondering if anyone else had something similar

I think it is complaining about a stuck closed switch.

The 190vDC on my machine is only reading 130v and drops rapidly. Displays are strobing and die right out.

Is the easy fix simply replacing the large capacitor?
If so, what is an exact replacement?

I have a spare power supply in it right now but I’d like to buy a few caps and replace them on my 6803s

The high voltage section is the same like the high voltage section on the AS-2518-22 board from the older Bally games.
It uses the same parts.
Here is a posting about the cap for it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/67#post-7091815

Hello all! My first 6803 purchase will be a Blackwater 100! Really looking forward to it!!

Anything I should look for and check?
Thanks! Will share some pictures later.

Check for battery damage at the upper right corner.
Check the plastic ramps for breaks (unobtainable).

Controleer de rechter boven hoek of er batterij schade is.
Controleer de ramps op breuk, deze zijn niet meer te krijgen.

Top! Thx

Anyone ever see a D&D with taped up front corners from factory on right and left corners of the cabinet? Gives me pause that the corners could be split or some issue is being masked with cabinet but I'm told otherwise and maybe I'm wrong as I'm not as familiar with this machine or other 6803s. Any insight appreciated.

D&D Front (resized).jpg

I looked at all the pics I could find and I don't see any with tape - but I do not have any experience with this unit.

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=743

https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/dungeons-and-dragons/gallery

Thanks! -- appreciate the info.

So....I have done about 8 of these. The black front is a product called melamine. Its a type of particle board with plastic bonded to one side and from what I'm told was pretty common in the 80's. Cheaper then plywood and no finishing costs as you could glue it up and apply decals. Remember, this is when Bally was fighting for their lives.

My guess is your cabinet is very dry and the plastic started to lift. The wood underneath would have crumbled out because of this. Someone probably applied the tape to try and stop this. the permanent solution is an epoxy pour on that corner.

Hi all
I have a Special Force with an aftermarket MPU that has been working fine but now wont play sounds and was hoping someone might have seen this or know of cause/cure?
I have the original MPU and when fitted sound works fine so i figure that it is not sound board or cable or connector issue, sound setting is correct(3) and set the same for both boards.
Tried swapping the boards out several times and re seated plugs without resolve.
Sound board flashes 6 times on both boards although the last flash on the no sounds board seems to flicker and is not the same as the working board.
I swapped out u7 I.C with a spare i have but no change ( u7 check is the last flash)
All thoughts would be appreciated Cheers!

Just got a EBC. My first 6803, is this game supposed to have linear flippers? Mine has crank flippers.

The manual on IPDB shows non linear

Hi all, Newbie here. Attempting to resurrect a Beat the Clock pin (1985 era). Have had this for ~20 years kids used to play it all the time. Kids now grown and hasn't it's not been played in 7+ years. Now I have grandkids and want to fix it up for them.

Unfortunately when I opened her up I discovered the dreaded leaking battery on the 6803 board and am attempting repair. Board cleaned up. battery replaced with AA's mounted remotely. Have replaced several resistors, etc.

My problem and question is related to the area of the board labeled R1, D1, C13, RB4, and RB1. The board had damage in this area.

Now my questions and my ignorance:

1. It appears the R1 and D1 (north connections) were bridged on the front side of the board. Is this correct?
2. Also appears that D1, c13, RB4, (north connections) were also bridged on the back side of the board. Is this correct?

Hard for these old eyes to read the schematics as well as the tracer wires on the board.
6803 board question (resized).jpg

I've take a picture for you.
The first is the front of the board.
Second is the solder side.
Third is the solder side again, but the pictur is flipped to show the components in the same position.

I hope this helps.

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

6803_front (resized).jpg

6803_solder (resized).jpg

6803_solder_flipped (resized).jpg

Thank you so much.!! Exactly what I needed.

Help!!! Installed board after cleanup and....... Nothing!!! No LED flashes.

Started troubleshooting:

1. Checked the power supply, all test point voltages are within specs.
2. Unplugged everything from the MPU except J1.
3.TP2 voltage measuring very strange at .9V
4.removed J1 connector and verified 5 volts at connectors J1-10 & 11
5. Checked capacitors C8, C9 & C10 (desoldered 1 leg): C8 - 580nf, C9 & C10 0.97nf

Can't figure out what is going on??? According to what I can see on the schematic there are 2 ferrite beads involved as well at FB1 and FB2. Not sure how to test these??

Any advice will be appreciated.

Note: Bally Eight Ball Champ had OEM flippers that where leftovers from
------ their home pinball economy line of pinballs. The bottom arch is plastic,
------ and the flipper links where plastic and riveted to the plunger [like Stern classic].
------ The flipper links would break, causing operators to upgrade to the 1978 style flippers.

Thanks for confirming. My game does have the plastic links, possibly original, why would anyone replace these with the plastic ones if the originals broke? I know I wouldn't have. All the flips work ok but I'm not a fan, I link I might go linear on this game(ducking).

One weird thing is that just about all of the coils appear to have been replaced, minus pops and slings. The knocker is seized. The seller put in a NOS 6803 board with an NVRAM but the game needs 2 or 3 power ups before going into attract. Power issue?

BTW, Retro Refurbs is working on EBC cab decals, possibly some artwork for the cab front as well.

I had to hand paint a refurbish EBC many years ago. The decals would be welcomed.

TP2 on the MPU should be ground (0V).
Check your connector at J1-7,8,9.
C8 should be 470uF, not nF.
C8 is only to smooth the 5V at the board and is not that important.
FB1 and FB2 are a kind of wire jumpers.
If they are 0 ohm, they are good.
Infact you can jumper them when in a pinch.

Not giving the first flash indicates a problem with the ram in the 6803 chip (main processor).
Here is a link to the www.pinwiki.com:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally_6803#CPU_Board_Power_Up_Sequence

Are there any Blackwater 100 owners who can confirm the coil they have on their lower left flipper? The manual says it should be an A-24-570/34-3600 and I bought a new one, replacing the AQ-500-500/34-4500 that was there (and had a broken wire so I just replaced it).
I’m really struggling to make the right ramp, even after a flipper rebuild with new parts.

Do you have the E.O.S.switch wires in the correct positions?
Does the E.O.S.switch open/close correctly? Proper tension?
E.O.s.switches are prone to fail.