Are you missing some GI over in that corner?

As was indicated, it's a GI socket.

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Yeah its a bulb sicket that kays flat. I wouldn't worry about it too much,it only blinks when a ball goes through the gate,barely noticable.

Sweet, thanks guys! I just needed to know because...

I'm working on some brand new ramps for this game, as I am about to swap in a nice new playfield into mine!

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According to Todd - "one lousy little light bulb".

I did this with mine also
Kinda of a bummer

Edit, my mistake. It flashes in sync with the turbo booster station on the top right when it is activated. Doesn't provide any gi light but more of an effect.

i found opto set for my 6803 d&d!

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Not sure how to access the LAB lights and switches on a Bally Strange Science 6803? #Strange Science

For future searchers, here's the answer.

There is a second set of playfield support brackets on the underside of the playfield near the far end. Lift up the playfield until it is about a 70 Degree angle (almost vertical). Lift it off the pins the brackets pivot on mounted on the inside of the cabinet, and take it up higher, until the back brackets can slide on to the pins in the inside of the cabinet. Lower it to a horizontal position, supporting the front edge with something, so it does not rest on the mechanisms and wiring.

You can now easily access the switched and lights on the back panel of the playfield.

It was not that difficult, but I did not see the back brackets at first.

Have fun with your game!

Picked this up tonight. Probably going to have some questions so glad there is a club!

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I just finished applying my own custom graphics over the generic Bally. I kept it somewhat motorcycle and MadMax. The whole thing cost me $26 using the public library vinyl printer.

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Wow $26! That looks amazing! All my side art is gone...lol.

That's great, I went by a professional print shop once, they quoted $1000!
I laughed all the way out the door.
Oh, sorry, its was ALMOST $1000, went back to my emails:
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Not sure if every library has one,I just payed for yhe material. Its the same quality as what you get from other sources.

So my upper left flipper wasn't working. Turns out the coil stop and coil fell off. Put it back together and works great.

1. 2 pops aren't working. Left one has one wire disconnected (on purpose apparently) and middle pop is missing coil.

2. Drop target won't reset. One wire is disconnected (also on purpose).

3. One light won't light - green light #8.

4. Target bolt 2 and 3 give errors on power up and either score automatically or don't score manually or both.

Can someone take some pictures for me of these areas? So I can see how to wire back up? Any idea why all these things would be disconnected intentionally?

Ideas on the light issue?

Disconnect the caps on target bolt 2 and 3?

Have you ever seen a game so damn dirty?

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1. 2 pops aren't working. Left one has one wire disconnected (on purpose apparently) and middle pop is missing coil.
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2. Drop target won't reset. One wire is disconnected (also on purpose).
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3. One light won't light - green light #8.
Have you checked the associated transistor for this controlled lamp?

Thank you for the pictures! I will check the transistor. So does the left pop only have 2 wires going to it instead of 3 like the other two pops and drop?

I don't recall which pop is which, but here is one that does only have 2 wires.

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Thanks very much!

Hi all, a follow up from early this year.
I had ordered a new mpu from swemmer direct and was waiting for it to arrive to do a final post to advise how it all went, so ordering it direct from swemmer started great, prompt emails a good deal on the board, postage and tracking went well. the board arrived nicely packaged with no visible damage.
The board was to replace the original mpu which works without fault ( i wanted a backup just in case), i installed the new board but it would not boot and would stall at different flashes sometimes 1 sometimes 3.
Contacted swemmer for help, initially he accused me of killing the board, i tried re seating the game roms and got the mpu to boot but after a powerdown it wouldnt boot again, informed him of this and he now thought that a mechanical issue was the cause.
After reseating all the chips the mpu would boot now and again but NOT without a long power down between attempts, when it did boot playing a game would see the score screw up, during a normal game the last digit score only shows a zero but this mpu would show an number between 0 and 9, matching numbers would still would award a free game if the first number was matched, last 2 numbers 39 would award free game for 30 nvram would not hold settings either.
Sent the board back for warranty, he informed me that the nvram was in the wrong slot and that was causing the issue and now the board boots fine but testing would continue for a few days just to be certain, he said that the board seemed still to be a little flaky and would build a new board to be sure, i asked if he was using new chips (not the ones from the original board) and was asured that he was, testing coninued for a week before being posted back.
Board arrives, installed, same fault, i swapped the the game roms from the oem board and purchased a new Nvram locally once these were installed the game works but now has several SCR's that were blown i changed these over and the board has worked okay for several months.
All of these repairs were done with permission ( to avoid warranty issues), a refund was given for the Nvram but i asked to have the Eproms replaced (i wanted to keep the oem board intact) his response was that he would replace them bu he was shifting house and advised it would be around june before that could happen, after repetead requests this has still not happened and now refuses to respond to my emails.
In my original post i highly recomended swemmer, i withdraw that recomendation and if you choose to use him it is done without my recomendation

Another member has just joined.

I've just picked up a Strange Science, and it's not too bad. The cabinet has swelled, stinks of mold, and the playfield simply drops down into the machine.

I've already owned and repaired a black belt (3 left flippers.. who knew), a motordome (that 3 post band under the mini playfield..a delight), and I'm a sucker for this tech.

I've got the skills for most of it. The main MPU is from a black belt, is there any change for a SS, apart from the ROMS? Plus.. does anyone here repair these boards??. I haven't had much luck with main board board repair.

Thanks for any help.

Jaime

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Joined the WORKING 6803 club yesterday…

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Haha the "working" 6803 club. Disturbingly more exclusive than the regular club.

I picked up a Strange Science that is in surprisingly good condition overall.

I went through it and fixed several minor problems. The biggest issue I have is that it's missing the clear plastic covers that protect the neon tube on the backbox. The neon is there and works, it's just exposed with no protection.

Does anyone here know of one that's been parted out? Or would anyone be willing to loan their covers to have a mold made in exchange for a new spare set?

I've been asked to make those covers already...and they are too big for me to pull off.

Will a fishtales cover work?

It might. I need to get some measurements and see if it's tall enough to clear the top of the neon tube. At least they are available from a couple of different suppliers.

I recently installed new ramps and a new playfield in my Motordome...its like a new game now!

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Wow!!!! Looks amazing!

Does anyone have maybe 20 or so pretty clean 6803 lamp sockets that they could sell me? Thanks.

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My Hardbody machine has started to score 5000 points when i press the right flipper button. Not every time, it is a bit random.
where do i start to look?
Looking at the schematics, should i check the switches here?

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http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Hardbody_Tech_Chart.pdf

It could also be the vibration of the flipper actuating another switch in an unrelated row/column due to vibration. Step 1 is to determine which switch hits award 5000 points. Then check the switch adjustment of those.

Put the game in the switch test and hit the playfield to see which switch activates.
Find out which target/rollover scores 5000 points and chaeck them all.

Check the small capacitors on the targets/rolovers too.
There are plenty of them on various switches.
Look in the manual in the switch matrix.
I did not mark the switches with capacitors on them.

I can pull mine off and measure it if you still need it - wish I had one of the new iphones with the 3D scanner!

You can make 3D scans with pretty much any phone using photogrammetry

Can someone with a motordome help me out?

I bought a motordome with a broken shooter rod. I just assumed it was the correct length and bought a replacement however the 7 7/8 length shooter rod i bought is too short to launch the ball.

What is the length of the shooter rod on motordome?

6803 mpu coming soon. Over 500 components per board .
6803

Sounds deluxe available now
sounds deluxe

Now available. Nvram.weebly.com

Aweee yea!!

Thats crazy, I jyst let mine go so I can't help. Never knew it was different?

Nice!!! Thanks Barakandl!

If this sound board doesn't fix the scratchy audio on my D&D I think it must just be crappy source files.

Check/swap the AD7533 and the service bulletin about the capacitor that blows up that chip. In my testing I have noticed an AD7533 may not totally fail, but just give you "scratchy" sound.

http://www.pinrepair.com/6803/6803removecap.pdf

Looking for a pair of Long-Shaft & Short-Shaft flippers for sale (especially the Long ones); the ones used on Hardbody. I have a useable set that is a little cracked that I repaired the best one can with epoxy; but I always fear of accidently destroying one. Does anybody know a source?

Rats. Barandl's new sound board did not fix my D&D scratch audio issue. I've replaced the speakers in the game so the only things I have left are:

The front door sound pot. It does not seem scratchy when swiped back and forth so I'm not holding out much hope.
An MPU issue of some kind, or an odd connector problem that is not on the sound board (they have been rebuilt)
The source audio is just garbage and I've been chasing my tail.
Something funky with the speaker ohmage or something else I'm not seeing

TNT stated on their D&D video that the first thing they do is spray the sound board pot and the coin door pot with contact cleaner due to this problem.

Push the diag button on the sound board. It should make noise. Does that sound clear?

I am not too familiar with Dungeons and Dragons, but this sound board should be relatively "good" sounding. All the sounds are samples, including the tones. Escape from the Lost World I think sounds pretty great with this board, it plays a neat song at least a minute long. Special Force is kind of bad sounding in comparison though. Maybe find some youtube videos to see what your game should sound like.

On the new sound board the connector pins will have some labeled S1, S2 and etc. With a logic probe in sound test you should see activity at each one with a wire. Missing one input signal would result in wrong sound, not scratchy.

if two boards sound the same, its probably not the circuit board trim pot. Change / check / clean the cabinet trim pot though. They are usually bad in these bally games by now if original. Bad trim pot is possible to sound scratchy, but usually you can find a good spot. You can maybe take it apart and clean / adjust the wiper. I have fixed my atari 2600 paddles a that way. Sometimes they need replaced if the wiper part is bad or the winding it open up between the outer legs.

Make sure the correct speaker is used and not busted up. The cheap speaker used on my test fixture sucks and they all sound pretty terrible from it. The speaker in my Special force / Black Pyramid sounds so much better.

Just to make sure, here is exactly how it sounds. Is this the MIDI scratch you are referring to?

Wow, D&D has eight minutes of music. It is kind of neat, but I hear the "scratch". It is almost like what low bit rate MP3 rip from 1997 sounds like. Perhaps intentional to sound gritty like that?

Special force has like 10 seconds of music, no speech, and cricket noises... lol. I could not find a Escape from the lost World soundtrack video like that D&D one, but it is pretty good. I will have to explore the other sounds deluxe games.

Looking forward to some 6803 MPU's...here is one of mine!

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Yeah, I guess it's just shitty source audio. Damn. I love the music and chased my tail quite a bit over this. If anybody is interested in a discounted D&D sound board (only used once to see if it fixed the issue) let me know.

D&D music is amazing, I have toyed with trying to make it sound cleaner at the very least. Also clean up the Dungeon master's cackle. I had hoped that Barakandl's boards would have a stereo output option added on to give me more motivation crank it!