(Topic ID: 217224)

Bally 35 solid LED

By McSquid

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by McSquid
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 5 years ago

I'm trying to revive a Bally 35 that had moderate acid damage. It's currently on the bench with a PC PSU 12v hooked to TP2, and 5v hooked to TP5. I'm trying to get the board to boot barebones, so only U6, U11, and U9 are installed.

I've stripped the components that we're corroded, sanded, neutralized, and replaced them with components from a big daddy's electronics kit, I've repaired all broken traces I could find and verified connectivity of each pin to it's uncorroded destination on each of the following sockets I replaced: U6, U7, U11, and U8.

I'm following the troubleshooting guide on pinrepair.com (or its foreign mirror) and it says I should have 5v on pin 40 of the U9 CPU. I have 2.13v which is definitely wrong. Additionally, I have 4.1v at U9 pin 5, which according to that guide should be 2.8v

Any Bally repair gurus out there? Posting pics just in case

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#2 5 years ago

remove u9 and check u9 p40 again. If it is still not 5v then you got something hooked up wrong in the reset area. Make sure you got the diodes, transistors, resistors installed right, no solder splash, etc.

If the reset isnt high the CPU will be shut down so ignore the VMA for now.

one of the 1n4148 leads down by the battery terminal looks like it is really close to shorting to ground... check that out and maybe clip the lead if the clearance is tight.

#3 5 years ago

You sure the three chips are good?

#4 5 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

You sure the three chips are good?

No, this board has never booted in my presence. I have several chips for U6 and U 11, but only one 6800 CPU. All are unknown however.

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

remove u9 and check u9 p40 again. If it is still not 5v then you got something hooked up wrong in the reset area. Make sure you got the diodes, transistors, resistors installed right, no solder splash, etc.
If the reset isnt high the CPU will be shut down so ignore the VMA for now.
one of the 1n4148 leads down by the battery terminal looks like it is really close to shorting to ground... check that out and maybe clip the lead if the clearance is tight.

I'm double checking everything. I still get ~2v with U9 removed.

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from McSquid:

I'm double checking everything. I still get ~2v with U9 removed.

Pull U11 as well just in case it's pulling it down. If you're still not getting 5V you definitely have an issue with your reset circuitry. Check the other points in the 'valid power detector' section of the schematic where they have voltages noted to compare.

#7 5 years ago

I'm all set. Turns out I had switched the Q1 and Q5 transistors. I reversed them, which fixed the voltage, I installed U9, 11, and 6 still had a solid LED, I switched the chip I had in U6 for another I had in better shape, and success! I have a flicker in my LED. now to continue through the troubleshooting steps. I'll be back if I get stuck again. Thanks!

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