(Topic ID: 167757)

Bally -35 flashes

By pinballlizard

2 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by pinballlizard
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders


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    #1 2 years ago

    Confused a little with the flashes. What I get is flicker, one full flash led then goes out and comes on for the third time but stays on. Is that Two flashes or three? I am thinking to be a complete flash the light has to go out. If this means I have no third flash then it should be the 5101. Tested chip in good board and tried new chip. Pinned out socket and all connections are ok. This board worked a week ago for the last 4 years. According to clays guide it might be the 4011 chip? I can order one and try it but I hate to do that until I know if I am failing 3rd or 4th flash.

    #2 2 years ago

    There is sometimes a flicker, then one flash, then it pauses for a long time, then there's more flashes with a smaller pause between each. The flicker doesn't count, the flash before the long pause is the 'first' flash

    #3 2 years ago

    ok so does it count as a flash when the light comes on or when it goes back out?

    #4 2 years ago

    So how many flashes is this. flicker, light on, light off, light on and stays on. 1 or 2?

    #5 2 years ago

    I'd say it's failing the second test, but I'm not 100% sure. By my recollection the light would fail to come on, not get stuck on, but it's been a while

    #6 2 years ago

    It's actually one flash. You don't count the flicker or any flashes that stay on. Your game rom or socket is the next thing to check.

    #7 2 years ago
    Quoted from pinballlizard:

    So how many flashes is this. flicker, light on, light off, light on and stays on. 1 or 2?

    Flicker doesnt count for the "7" needed to boot. You are not passing the second flash. Start diagnosis there

    #8 2 years ago

    video of mpu booting up where i call out each flash. Note the flicker is so brief, it is not even visible in the video.

    #9 2 years ago

    Leave the 5101 out and see if the flashes change. Then pull the 6810 and see if the flash changes.

    #10 2 years ago
    Quoted from CactusJack:

    Leave the 5101 out and see if the flashes change. Then pull the 6810 and see if the flash changes.

    yep. you can get odd behavior if a RAM is bad. When the 6810 RAM test fails, it sometimes makes the MPU get stuck in a loop of a rebooting constantly every time the ram tests starts.

    Bad PIA can even be crapping on the data bus and cause a RAM failure POST flash code.

    #11 2 years ago
    Quoted from pinballlizard:

    ok so does it count as a flash when the light comes on or when it goes back out?

    Technically, the flash is counted when the LED comes On, i.e. once a test has completed successfully, the MPU LED switches On and about a third of a second later it should switch Off then begin the next test.
    So even though in your case the LED lights 2 times, the fact that your LED stays on is not by design so makes that second LED lighting dubious.

    Go with what the experts have said above.

    #12 2 years ago

    First thing you need to do is replace the original LED on your mpu board. The original is old and faded and sometimes it's really hard to see things with them. Put a brand-new red or yellow or green, doesn't matter the color, just something new. This will help a lot.

    Every board I work on gets a new MPU LED. This is a five cent part and takes 10 seconds to install. It needs to happen for you to have a clear understanding and a clear view of what the board is doing. For example in the video Andrew posted above, a new LED would've gone a really long way and showing you what happens. If he had a new LED we would see the initial flicker in the video. Personally I pick an LED color that makes sense for me. It also is a unique color so that when I work on the board years later I can say, hey that was my work that's that color LED I always install.

    Next you need to understand how the LED works. When you power the board on the LED is on. The software running is what turns the LED off. This takes about 50 ms for the software to get up and running. So the initial flicker is definitely a flicker and not a flash.

    With that in mind you can count the flashes which are more like genuine flashes. if you have a new LED on the board it's a lot easier to see all the stuff, and see what's going on.

    #13 2 years ago

    Who cares how bright it blinks and if you see the flicker? The fact the LED turns off is what you look for, thats it. I don't like the term flicker. It should be "does the LED turn off after the reset delay". Replacing the LED is moot. Sure i do it usually but....

    IN FACT having a brand new LED introduces a new problem (one that doesnt matter one bit, just like how bright the LED is does not matter). It makes the LED glow during normal game play since Bally multiplex's things to the extreme. I the LED blinks in gameplay with the lamp strobe, so it flickers at 120hz. Which is not seen with an old LED. Brand new LED 120hz makes it glow pretty bright.

    #14 2 years ago

    so is the consensus that I have one complete flash and it is therefore related to U7? If so a know good U7 and a socket that fully pins out on U7, any other thoughts?

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