Picked up a decent Future Spa on Friday. I'm exploring some interesting behaviors....At start up, the left slingshot and left pop bumper fire. The outhole kick out does not, neither do the drop targets reset. (no target reset at game start or after drain)

The saucer kick out does not kick out .

Manually activating the coils does work and all coils fire.

If you manually place the ball and shoot it, when it drains, it's the same start up behavior ( left slingshot and left pop bumper fire.

At first glance, the wiring seems in great shape. I have the manual, but it does a poor job of telling me (or I do a poor job of understanding (where the wires in the switch matrix should route to.... Any ideas would be appreciated.
The mpu board is in bad shape on the bottom with battery corrosion, figured I would tackle that next.
I'm hoping to sort this switch / solenoid issue out and that it's not related to the corrosion.

All the lights work great.

I get sound when most targets are hit, but I don't get the background sounds that are supposed to continually play (I did adjust switch 29 and 30 on the MPU to control the sounds).

I'm really looking forward to playing it.

Thanks as always!

Here's where I am today. The corrosion was so bad on the mpu, I replaced it with the Alltel ultimate. Unfortunately, it did not change anything. All the switches test out perfectly. During the solenoid test, heres the exact result.
1) Outhole kicker - left sling and top left thumper bumper fires - incorrect
2) knocker - bottom right thumper bumper fires- incorrect
3) saucer - nothing fires - incorrect
4) left kickback - good
5) Top left thumper bumper - good
6) Top right thumper bumper- good
7) Top center thumper bumper- good
8) Bottom left thumper bumper- good
9) Bottom right thumper bumper- good
10) Left slingshot- good
11) Drop target reset - Top left thumper bumper fires- incorrect
12) coin door - good
13) relay- good
14) gate - good

So, since the MPU is now new, no need to repin. I did replace the transistors of Q1 - drop target, Q4 - outhole, and Q8 - saucer. That didn't fix anything. I can still manually activate the solenoid by shorting the top of the transistors to ground.

I'm really looking for ideas so I can get it ready for pin-a-gogo.

Thanks!

Glenn

There are several of those caps in the bottom of the cabinet..... I had been wondering where in the hell those came from. I'll check in the morning and see if they've all been cut off. And to answer your question, the test has had the exact same results ever time I've ran it. On test 1, its always the sling and top TB.

Maddening, it is.

I was about to buy the refining / tine up kit from big daddy, then I see he's on vacation. Nooooooooo. I will hopefully have some time to tear into it tonight and can at least test the wires from the mpu to the solenoid board. I really appreciate the help, I want to play it!

Well, MPU j4 to the SDB had good connectivity. In fact, I think I checked just about every wire between the MPU and driver board and the power supply. Speaking of the power supply, since I had the MM out and what the test points should read.... Here is what I came up with:

TP1 should be: 5.4 measured 7.94
TP2 should be: 230 measured 254
TP4 should be: 7.3 measured -19 ????
TP5 should be: 43 measured 45.2
TP3 should be: 11.9 measured 14.51

So, 1 and 3 are a bit out of range, 2 and 5 are within limits, and 4 is WTF????

Here's a front and back of the board

WP_20140504_001-981.jpg

WP_20140504_004-324.jpg

I'm an idiot for not realizing that TP was an AC point. I did set the Alltek board to future spa (fun fact, the examples in the instruction guide reference Future Spa

If I have time tonight, I'll pull the SDB and check continuity from front to back on the pins, and traces up to the chip itself.

Does anyone have the troubleshooting manual for the -51 soundboard? My manual has the -32.

Should I change / restart the thread around the SDB now that we've replaced the MPU?

It was the J4 on the MPU board! The metal tab on the connector had broken, looked good from the outside, but wouldn't touch on the inside.

It was great hearing the full sounds and seeing everything light up.

Unfortunately, I'm at 99%...... I can't get the gate to work. Switches test fine, the gate is Solenoid 17, it does not fire in test (so familiar), but will fire if I manually short the tab.

I pulled all the connectors from both sides and the only bad one I found was the J4 pin1.

Any ideas?

I put in the Alltel ultimate MPU board, I don't even see a flash on the led during the test sequence. Not saying that something can't be up with the brand new board, but seems unlikely. Seems like I'm so close to getting this, it's a lot of fun to play, just want that darn gate to work.

The tab of the driver transistor on the sdb. The funny thing (among several on this project), the old sdb was working just fine when I pulled it out to put in the alltek board. So, of course when this happened, I thought lets pop the old one back in, just for giggles...... Of course, when I put the old one in, the Ultimate MPU no longer lights up. They got along great for a week, now the shiny ultimate sdb comes to town, and the old one won't give me the time of day. My re-pin supplies will arrive on Monday. I sense lots of long days before PAGG. Still need to book the uhaul trailer!

I really appreciate all the help!

Fixed!!!! although a few switches could be tweaked a bit, the game is fully functional. While messing with J4 on A3, I must have relocated pin 11 to pin 12 on the connector.

Lessons learned...... had I thoroughly inspected J4 pin 1 on A4 (mpu), I probably would not have had to buy the Ultimate mph and Sdb. That being said, the mpu board was hugely corroded and need a major overhaul anyways.

I'm still going to repin the connectors.

I'm going to get the stencils from twisted pins and see what havoc I can wreak with some krylon

Thanks to all who stuck with me on this journey.

Does anyone know how to amend thread title so I can add fixed to the description?

Uhaul booked for PAGG !