(Topic ID: 236055)

Bally 2518-16: HV rebuild necessary if LED displays?

By dyopp21

5 years ago

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Latest reply 5 years ago by acebathound
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Hotdoggin' Bally, 1980

Usually I buy the Alltek boards when restoring a machine, but I've been getting into board work more and would like to rebuild the SDB on my current project. I've got a bunch of 2518-22's from previous restores, but this current machine (Hotdoggin') has the -16.

Couple of questions (and they may be stupid, but I'm still learning).
1st- I built the Pinitech LED displays for this machine, so my assumption is I don't need to bother with the high voltage section rebuild of this board. But I want to make sure that section only drives the displays and I'm not missing something. I've removed fuse in the high voltage section of the transformer mounted rectifier board.

2nd- Is the AS-2518-22 interchangeable with the -16? This -16 has a pretty good burn on it from one of the driver transistors, but has been repaired (even though it's pretty garish looking). If I can put a 22 in place of this 16, I've got some that look really good and I'd just rebuild the 5V section of that.

As always, thanks in advance for any advice.

Yopp

OP
Quoted from dyopp21:
Usually I buy the Alltek boards when restoring a machine, but I've been getting into board work more and would like to rebuild the SDB on my current project. I've got a bunch of 2518-22's from previous restores, but this current machine (Hotdoggin') has the -16.
Couple of questions (and they may be stupid, but I'm still learning).
1st- I built the Pinitech LED displays for this machine, so my assumption is I don't need to bother with the high voltage section rebuild of this board. But I want to make sure that section only drives the displays and I'm not missing something. I've removed fuse in the high voltage section of the transformer mounted rectifier board.
2nd- Is the AS-2518-22 interchangeable with the -16? This -16 has a pretty good burn on it from one of the driver transistors, but has been repaired (even though it's pretty garish looking). If I can put a 22 in place of this 16, I've got some that look really good and I'd just rebuild the 5V section of that.
As always, thanks in advance for any advice.
Yopp

LED displays do not use the high voltage so sure you could use a board with a shorted HV circuit. Just pull the 3/4a fuse from the rectifier board.

In general the driver boards are all cross compatible with each other, including all the stern types.

On the back of the Pinitech LED display PCBs I silkscreen the text "High voltage fuse can be removed from rectifier board if using all led displays." Also gets mentioned in the instructions. If you're using all LED displays the fuse can be pulled from the rectifier board as mentioned, best place to disable the circuit since it cuts HV going to the SDB so you don't have to remove the fuse there if you don't want to.

The reason to not keep it running is the HV is *only* used for the original PLASMA displays, nothing else. No reason to keep the circuit active if you aren't running any plasma displays. In fact, it becomes a bit of a liability if you keep the HV circuit enabled since it'd be running in the background and the HV circuit could go bad at some point (if it's not already) -- while the machine would otherwise appear to be functioning fine since the LED displays are only operating off 5v. So best practice to just remove the HV fuse from the rectifier board if upgrading the entire display set to LED.

One of the main differences on the older SDBs is the fuse for the 190v circuit wasn't located on the SDB (instead it was mounted on the back of the lamp panel). Later boards had that fuse on the SDB. Functionally they should be compatible.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Bally_and_Stern_Solenoid_Driver_Board

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whats-the-difference-between-a-bally-as-2518-16-and-a-as-2518-22-sole

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