Doctor Who
Bally, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pinballinreno.
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Quoted from Tophervette:New 10 Opto board installed and cabled up. I am still tracing a few wires to find out what is missing from under the playfield. I thought I had accounted for all the switches and lights on the Matrixes, but still have a few unknown loose wires.
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That new board looks SLICK!
Quoted from Tophervette:The wiring harness is officially installed! Huzzah~! Damn that was a lot of nut driver turning. 3 wires decided to break off in the transition and had to be soldered back on. The Pop Bumper spoon switches were soldered on. The hardest part so far was soldering the Pop Bumber light cables. Well, there are now 6 burn spots on the back of the playfield where the wires were attached. A smarter move would have been to have some asbestos cloth under the wires while soldering. Too late now. I am on a roll...
In some of the pictures you can see the old worn-out PF that I borrowed from Rich Wick to trace all the dimple holes and to mock up all the pieces/parts that I have been collecting. It made the PF swap install a whole lot easier. And allowed me to still play my working Doctor Who.
Next, I need to start installing the top of the PF with standoffs, ramps, plastics, side rails, etc. The PINDOC rotisserie is essential for a PF build up. On my first restore of the first Dr Who. I worked on it, out of the cabinet, leaning against car tires and resting on a towel.
I am gaining confidence in the pinball maintenance game. Time will tell when I hook up all the wires and hear the dreaded gong of the sound board telling me I got errors and troubles.
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I havent used flat wire pop-bumper sockets in years.
The idea is that one can use a .093 molex connection and the round lead #555 sockets. You can easily double up wires on the bigger pins and crimp them just fine for "daisy" chaining. This way the chains stay in the harness and only one wire has to go to the lamp/switch or solenoid.
The diode is placed "in-line", on the wire and into the wiring harness and covered with 5/32" aquarium tubing so you can see it later.
Much easier to maintain and no solder burns on the playfield.
I hope this information will help you as you progress.
Solder burns are ok, and can be cleaned off mostly. Factory games usually have a burn or 2 on them.
So, you will end up with a factory look, that will never be seen after the playfield is populated.
Quoted from Tophervette:Very interesting and learning is the key to progress. Only 1 day too late to learn this. Oh well. The website I was using to learn about Pop Bumper install, recommended the flat wire socket, because you have to ty-wrap the round leads in an S configuration to get the lamp socket to sit upright.
According to Vids Guide. "If you somehow got stuck with the flexible wire lead Lamp Holders, you have now probably discovered that they won't go down very far into the Body, and tend to fall to one side or another.
You need to fix this with a Zip-tie so the Holder can go all the way down to the bottom of the body.
Next time, make sure you buy the stiff wire leads, LOL.:"
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This would be true if you wanted a retro look of the lamps pointed up vertically.
Im not doing this any more.
I MUCH prefer the 7 LED disk lamps paired with translucent pop bumper bodies:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/pop-bumper-discs
Get the frosted bodies.
Thy light upwards and downwards at the same time and illuminate the lanes between the pop-bumpers and add much needed light in the pop bumper areas.
I posted this in the Doctor Who thread when I did my resto.
You arent too far along to change it all out if you are so inclined.
Its a wonderful modification, but it will be wonderful anyway!
Quoted from Tophervette:pinballinreno if you look closely on Post 24, you can see I already have the multi LED pop Lights. That I stole from your resto. LOL. So I see why it would be easier to use the insulated wire leads for the bulb holders in that case. And could have easily added Molex connectors. Maybe next time, if there is one.
Thanks, Chris
Its never too late to make it perfect, lol.
Ive taken things apart too many times to count, to get something I can be proud of.
Its taken me many resto's to get where I am today.
But since it done, its time to move on to another challenge...
Quoted from Tophervette:Populating the top of the playfield is very challenging. I started at the flipper area and am working towards the other end. Many holes need to be enlarged, as the clear coat made them smaller. I install parts, then find, I have to remove them to dremel out a hole next to where I just installed a bunch of parts. So many different types of posts and screws. I have my working Pinball half disassembled, trying to figure out where all the parts go on the new pinball.
I use small bore brushes to enlarge the holes.
https://www.harborfreight.com/engine-brush-kit-20-piece-63732.html
Drilling is too harsh.
.22 caliber wire brish works in most of the holes.. you dont have to spin it very much.
They act like sand paper and do a great job.
https://www.amazon.com/ALAZCO-Value-Caliber-Rifles-Threads/dp/B078Y9C9RT/ref=sr_1_9
HEP showed some of this on his thread.
Used up ones for great for smaller holes.
There are gunsmithing kits that have small brushes.
Harbor freight used to sell a kit cheap.
They also have an engine detailing kit that has a pretty good assortment.
But I get the most use out of the .22 caliber bronze/brass brushes.
Quoted from yellowghost:I tried these, and they work great.[quoted image]
Those are ok for lamps but dort give enough space for the LED disk lights.
The sockets need to move to the side a bit to contain the connector and wire.
Quoted from Tophervette:This plastic piece I had to hunt down and found in Germany. I had to have Zitt get it for me in a group purchase, as they do not sell or ship to the US. Then I had to build a new harness onto a female 3 pin plug and solder it onto the 2 opposing lamp sockets. Was kind of surprised, when I found the matching plug under the PF waiting for me. I had wondered what the red, blue wires were going to attach to. LOL.
My next task is to attach the under-playfield subway with 3 switches that feeds the VUK under the Tardis. I have put an interior walls inside the Tardis and a blue LED to shine out the top of the improved Tardis that was once a USB device. It looks better than the original with Stickers.
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That plastic with the 2 bulbs goes to the 12v flasher circuit.
The bulbs you installed will smoke and melt if they arent 12v LEDs.
Originally the sockets held #906 bulbs, I put in 5 LED flasher towers on mine.
Quoted from Tophervette:The NOS MPF has arrived from Ron Kruzman with one of his beautiful clear coats on it. He had to remove the T-nuts, so that they would not be filled with clear coat. My next job is to dremel out the areas where T-nuts sit. Then I can begin to build it up from there with the ULF smooth lifter kit, new plastic dome, Cliffys and Cliffy colored posts. New Opto boards, carrier, mushrooms, springs, C-clips...[quoted image][quoted image]
I put 3mm factory mylar on mine. I copied the shape off of my used one.
Full cliffy's also on it.
The MPF takes a lot of abuse.
I do all of my switch testing on the rotisserie (the wires reach very well if its next to the game), one connector at a time. Its WAY easier this way. In fact, I test everything (lights, switches,solenoids etc.) on the rotisserie before putting the playfield into the game
https://homepinballrepair.com/pinball-switch-lamp-matrix-troubleshooting/
Jumper the rows and columns from the CPU board pins to eliminate the CPU as a culprit.
You can actually trip every switch in the game via jumpers even if the switch connector is removed.
Bad, missing, backwards diodes are problematic.
Physically inspect wires by column first and then by row. Check that the colors are correct.
Be certain that you dont have a ground short.
I just spent 72 days on an EXTREMELY difficult problem on my Stargate. Its finally ROCK SOLID!
Quoted from Tophervette:During checking the Opto pairs on the PF, we discovered that #31 Opto Popper and the MPF Wheel Opto was not working. They were both new from Marcos. The same place that has bad MPF 5 Opto Boards. Looking for another distributor for those.
Getting bad parts is driving me CRAZY of the moment.
I got smart switches for my stargate that were missing WHOLE COMPONENTS!
Marco really has to step up their game...
I spent 72 days on a bizarre issue and finally conquered it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stargate-woes
Check every wire, connector, contact. part etc.
Dont take brand new parts for granted, I just got a coil that was out of spec.....
Now I have to check resistance on brand new coils.....F#ck this lol....
Quoted from Tophervette:After a couple attempts to adjust the Exit Jets rollover switch, the video mode now launches.
I leveled the pinball machine at all 4 corners. Played several games, then the upper left flipper started acting up, either not flipping or weakly flipping. Back to the drawing board on Flipper 101 basics. But I am so close to it being perfect. No Credit Dot. No errors.
I might start to add the Mark Davidson Wobble Head Dalek Topper, the ColorDMD, the Pinsound custom soundtrack, the shaker.
Get the pinsound and shaker! The imbedded shaker routine in the ROM is better then the one I spent days on.
Its really good.
Also you need my custom startup wav file. MUCH better than the pinsound jingle.
I put the LED version of the colorDMD, it seemed to fit the theme better for me.
Install the wobble head mech backwards from the instructions, like taylor did in the wobble head thread.
It fits MUCH better.
If the flipper is weak check the EOS adjustment or wires. It shouldnt be weak.
If its super weak, its running on the hold voltage.
Quoted from Tophervette:One of the issues with Upper Left Flipper was the Grey Wire loop into the old IDC connector. After 10 games the flipper became weak. I some 6/32 screws and nuts in the bottom of the cabinet. Not immediately obvious. I grab the flipper mechanism under the PF and it is really loose. I see that the 3 bolts for the white plastic spacer that the Flipper Bat runs through backed out. I put some blue Thread Lock on them and the nut.
I have the Pinsound+ audio board, Pinsound DMD Board, Pinsound Shaker Board and COLORDMD now installed. The Dual Voltage MOD Power supply kit is next to be installed. Then the moving Dalek. I wanted to get the game going before I put the new expensive boards in. I had a left over set of wires when I was done. Temporarily confused, I re-read the COLOR DMD instructions and realized it was not needed.
The .100 Molex connectors have arrived. So more switching over to those from IDCs.
Did you get the LCD or LED version of the colorDMD?
After playing the game for a few months, I added the GIOCD and LEDOCD systems in.
Its REALLY a good thing to do.
Wire management became suoer important.
My backbox is PACKED lol.
Quoted from Tophervette:Time for the Mark Davidson Wobble head Dalek Install. I painted the Dalek ahead of time, as I like it silvery Aluminum color with middle part black with silver rings and blue rings on the eye stalk. I cut the insides of the Dalek head to fit the rectangular Mechanism plate. I also like the top part of the head to fit as flush as possible so that less light leaks out on the edges. I plugged in the harness to all the right spots on the WPC Power board and CPU. I love that Mark labeled each wire where it is supposed to plug into. I had marked where the front set of lights should mount, as well as the Motor Mech and the clear plastic dome that fits over the whole assembly. Though I prefer to leave that dome off for aesthetic reasons. From the pictures you can see, I have a few Dalek heads. One day, I will make a Supreme Dalek in white and gold trim. I am considering putting the cheaper UK servo version of the wobble head inside that. Note to self: Future Project.
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It was a really fun project.
Mark does an amazing job on the kits including the wire routing!
Its way cool that the code and testing is present in the game.
I also love the noisy way it works, as an animated killer garbage can would.
Quoted from Tophervette:The game is fully functional. It plays wicked fast, with new balls and that glass like PF. The older resto next to does not get airballs like this one. I must have the right combination of flipper placement and MPF metal wall settings, as I can get both balls locked within seconds of starting the game. The tradeoff is that it is not as easy getting to the alley way behind the MPF (i.e. pop bumpers and video mode), compared to the older one. I noticed that the new black legs that I got a good deal on from Marcos at Pinfest are 6 inches taller than stock. Which is OK for me as I am a tall guy anyway.
I need to take a video of the play action.
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Did you get the LEDOCD and GIOCD kits?
There are a few for sale at cost here:
Quoted from Tophervette:The game is fully functional. It plays wicked fast, with new balls and that glass like PF. The older resto next to does not get airballs like this one. I must have the right combination of flipper placement and MPF metal wall settings, as I can get both balls locked within seconds of starting the game. The tradeoff is that it is not as easy getting to the alley way behind the MPF (i.e. pop bumpers and video mode), compared to the older one. I noticed that the new black legs that I got a good deal on from Marcos at Pinfest are 6 inches taller than stock. Which is OK for me as I am a tall guy anyway.
I need to take a video of the play action.
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Im not sold on the blue door.
But I do like black trim!
Quoted from Tophervette:Black trim??? You mean the plastic covers when I raise the PF?
No, LOL...the black trim I did for my game 
Quoted from Tophervette:Great News: No meltdown. All voltages are within tolerance. I had to reach out to Justin at Pinball Life to tell me how to measure the voltages though. They are all AC volts. Most of the colors did not match the color of the existing Cabinet harness, so I did cross walk table.
This is the color wire matching and voltages on the Homepin Transformer WPC89. (5610-12835-00).
Plug A: (2 pin)
x2 Violet wires on Transformer and Cabinet Harness. DMD - 107.7 VAC. To J605-3 and J605-5. Fuse F602.
Plug B: (9 pin)
1. Green/Yellow on Transformer to x2 White/Brown on Cabinet Harness. To J115-2 and J115-3.
3. Yellow on Transformer to x2 Brown on Cabinet Harness. To J115-11 and J115-12.
4. Green/Yellow on Transformer to White/Orange on Cabinet Harness. G.I. - 7.4 VAC. To J115-4.
5. Yellow on Transformer to Yellow/White on Cabinet Harness. To J115-1. Ground.
6. Yellow on Transformer to Green on Cabinet Harness. G.I. - 7.4 VAC. To J115-10.
7. Green/Yellow on Transformer to x2 White/Yellow on Cabinet Harness. To J115-5 and J115-6
9. Yellow on Transformer to x2 Orange on Cabinet Harness. To J115-7 and J115-8.
Plug C: (15 pin)
1. Red on Transformer to Red on Cabinet Harness. 5V Reg. - 9.4 VAC. To J101-1. Fuse 113
2. Red on Transformer to Red on Cabinet Harness. 5V Reg. - 9.4 VAC. To J101-2.
3. Brown on Transformer to White/Red on Cabinet Harness. 5V Reg. - 9.4 VAC. To J101-1.
4. Brown on Transformer to White/Red on Cabinet Harness. Flash Lamp - 16.6 VAC. To J102-1 and J102-2.
5. White on Transformer to White on Cabinet Harness. DMD - 85.4 VAC. To J605-1. Fuse 601.
6. Red on Transformer to Gray on Cabinet Harness. Sound - 19.2 VAC. To J501-4 and J501-5. Fuse 502.
7. Black on Transformer to Black/Yellow on Cabinet Harness. Coils - 54.8 VAC. To J102-8 and J102-9. Fuse 112.
8. White on Transformer to White on Cabinet Harness. DMD - 85.4 VAC. To J605-2.
9. Black on Transformer to Gray/White on Cabinet Harness. Sound - 19.2 VAC. To J501-6 and J501-7.
10. Black on Transformer to Black/Yellow on Cabinet Harness. Coils - 54.8 VAC. To J102-5 and J102-6.
11. Green on transformer to White/Green on Cabinet Harness. 9.8 VAC. To J112-4 and J112-5. Fuse 116
12. Orange on Transformer to Gray/Green on Cabinet Harness. Sound - 19.4 VAC. To J501-1 and J501-2. Fuse 501.
13. Green on transformer to White/Green on Cabinet Harness. 9.8 VAC. To J112-1 and J112-3.
14. Blue on transformer to Blue/White on Cabinet Harness. 12V Reg. - 13.4 VAC. To J101-4 and J101-5. Fuse 114.
15. Blue on transformer to Blue/White on Cabinet Harness. 12V Reg. - 13.4 VAC. To J101-6 and J101-7.
Plug D: (12 pin)
1. Black on Transformer to Black on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 1 Black wire from Power Switch Box. (121.5 VAC line voltage).
2. Black on Transformer to Brown/White on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 2 Black Loop wire.
3. Red on Transformer to Brown/White on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 3 Black Loop wire.
5. White on transformer to nothing (probably for a 220V).
6. White on transformer to nothing (probably for a 220V).
7. Gray on transformer to nothing (probably for a 220V).
9. Blue on Transformer to White/Red on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 7 White wire from Power Switch Box. (121.5 VAC line voltage).
10. Blue on Transformer to Red on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 8 Orange Loop wire.
11. Orange on Transformer to Red on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 9 Orange Loop wire.
Plug E: (6 pin)
1. Grey on Transformer to Orange Loop 18V Plug.
2. Red from Plug C 10 to Orange Loop 18V Plug and Grey 1 wire above.
3. White on transformer to nothing (probably for a 12V plug).
4. Grey on Transformer to Orange Loop 18V Plug.
5. Orange from Plug C 2 to Orange Loop 18V Plug and Grey 4 wire above.
6. White on transformer to nothing (probably for a 12V plug).
Thanks for doing this!
Was there any harness modifying or connector re-wiring?
Just put the final touches on my Stargate playfield project.
Its not hard, just time consuming, It took 4 days to paint and cure:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stargate-woes/page/4#post-7732630
Quoted from Tophervette:I have had the same decision. I have seen one with the Dark Blue powder coat and it looked good. PinballinReno has one in Black trim. It of course adds to the cost and a personal decision. I did the coin door but some of the paint where the door rubs has come off. Needs a touch up. If I decide to powdercoat on #3 that I am building, it will be Tardis Blue. But then how far do you go? Just the rails and lock down bar? The Coin Door and/or the legs? The cabinet head hinge? Please post a picture whatever decision you make.
We used Photoshop to isolate colors on a picture of the game.
We went thru MANY iterations and color combinations.
Of course "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" !
But we arrived at a VERY specific powder coat that had sparkle colors that matched the game.
Pinballgoddess wanted something that looked like a starry sky at midnight, being a space themed game. Space has colorful stars and planets.
You might go with black and a starry metal flake like we did.
If you go black you only have to do the lockdown bar, siderails and legs.
The hinges look best in SEMS acid etch black primer.
We decided that the backbox black "sides, edges and trim", threw off any of the color choices we tried.
Of course you can paint the backbox interior a different color.
But as always, MAKE yourself HAPPY! Life it too short...
I liked this one (rockstar sparkle) but Pinballgoddess said it was too over the top:
Quoted from Tophervette:[quoted image]MPF built with ULF smooth lifter kit on the new CPR MPF. I have added new wires and connector to the motor.
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Where are you getting new mushroom targets from?
Is one stuck down or binding?
Quoted from Tophervette:With a lot of colored wires from Wire-Bot in 22 AWG in 10 foot lengths, I began wiring up the backbox light panel. First, I wired up the Flashers (pictures 1 and 2). Then I wired up the GI lamps picture 3). Next, I will make it pretty and neat with ty-wraps. Thanks to jamescardona for the bulb holders for the light panel. The last two pictures are from light panels from my Dr WHO's 1 and 2, that I am using as my example to know where the colors of wires are supposed to connect to on the board. I also labeled the ends of the wire on the board, where it connects to power board in the back box. The ends of the wire are coiled up and waiting to be cut, pinned and put into Molex connectors.
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Quoted from Tophervette:Finished up wiring the bulb sockets.
Measured the lengths that the wires need to be cut to, then cut the wires to correct length, depending on what Molex connector and where it plugs into the Power Board.
Crimped the ends of the wire once they were stripped. Then placed the pins into the Molex connector in the correct spots.
I have provided my paper working copy of the wire colors and where they connect to.
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Did you find a source for the IDC sockets?
Coil wrappers are here:
https://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/coil_wrappers.htm
Select the one you want, right click open in a new tab.
In the address/url box backspace out the underline and the word text, and hit enter, you will get williams logo labels to print yourself on colored paper or in color if you have a color printer.
Quoted from MiniPinHead:Don’t forget to reference the Parts Index. It lists the wire by cable, wire color, gauge, and length (inches).
https://www.ipdb.org/files/738/Bally_1992_Doctor_Who_Parts_List.txt
Might not be stock to what’s in an actual build from the factory, but it’s the next best thing. Lengths in the indexes are almost always longer than stock. Figured it might be useful for you to reference, instead of measuring wires in a harness
This is not his 1st game.
Game number 3 ! its gonna be AWSOME!
Im color blind.
Its easiest for me to KNOW that there are only 8 colors that Williams/Bally used.
The switch and lamp martix charts tell me the colors by their locatation.
This information translates whatever colors I see to a workable scenario.
It really does not help at all to have someone help me identify the color wire.
Since that person has no reference, that there are only 8 colors, they call out colors that arent even on the list.
So, its best for me to make up the colors in my mind (and not even name them as such) and just go with what I see and where the wires go.
I dont seem to have any trouble at all.
However I DO rely on packaging labels to make up new harnesses, and DO ask for opinions on say, orangy red vs dark green or yellow vs yellowish green colors.
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Ronkonkoma, NY