Welcome to my first ground up pinball build. I did a restore of a heavily routed Dr. Who last year and have been collecting more parts since then. I have NOS PF that I got from Ron Kruzman, who is putting a good glassy clear on it. I bought a used wire harness that had all the switches, bumpers, coils, lights cut off. I bought all those missing parts from Marco and slowly learned the colors of the wiring harness matrix, while attaching parts. I decided to make molex plugs for all the heavy parts, like everything with coils. The wooden back box came from a Creature from the Black Lagoon, that I sanded down, repainted, and applied the right decals. I have had a cabinet made for me, that is in transit. Making the Back Box Light board from scratch was a real lesson in patience. Good thing I had one to copy from. I will also have to make the wiring harness for that light board with wires and connectors from Wire-Bot. My boards will come from Dumbass and Pinsound. So many features to add, so follow along my journey.

Cab2 (resized).jpg

Cab3 (resized).jpg

Cab4 (resized).jpg

BackBox1 (resized).JPG

Playfield90 (resized).jpg

Playfield84 (resized).jpg

DSCF2721 (resized).JPG

After getting the Back Box Painted, Decaled and ground wire added, I added the metal backplane the boards attach to.
Next, I made a Back Box Light panel, painted it, and attached the hinges and hardware.
I drew with magic markers the path where the different colored wires were to run to each of the 47 lamp sockets. Note that the Black lamp sockets are for Flasher bulbs, but are physically the same as the White lamp sockets.
I bought about 10 feet of each color of wire needed to wire up the lamp board from Wire-Bot here on Pinside.
Then the task of following the colored lines with wire and attaching each lamp socket in the daisy chain fashion. I have since ty-wrapped the wires into common bundles to look prettier.
The bundle of wires flowed to the WPC89 Power board. I terminated the wires into Molex crimps and connectors. Then plugged them into the appropriate board connections.

DSCF2788 (resized).JPG

DSCF2785 (resized).JPG

DSCF2800 (resized).JPG

DSCF2804 (resized).JPG

DSCF2796 (resized).JPG

Working on Priming/Painting new Cabinet on a warm sunny day finally.

278971657_5445358172155087_5503930694437372129_n (resized).jpg

Cabinet being primed and sanded before Black paint applied.

DSCF2815 (resized).JPG

DSCF2816 (resized).JPG

I made this playfield back panel from the drawing in the manual. I also made the wire harness for the 2 Flashers and one bulb PCB. The hole in the center of this panel is to accommodate the upper ramp that sticks so far back. Doctor 5 plastic panel was warped from 30+ years of Flasher Bulb heat. I learned a trick here on Pinside. Heat the plastic up slowly with a heat gun on low. But don't melt. Then sandwich it between two sheets of glass. Put a weight on top of the glass and let it cool down to being flat again. It worked too.

DSCF2820 (resized).JPG

DSCF2818 (resized).JPG

DSCF2828 (resized).JPG

Moving right along with the good weather we are having here on the East Coast. Once the Black paint had dried, sanded 400 grit, painted black again, waited a day for the paint to bake. Then it was time to add the $250 Decals over the Black paint.

Then I added the coin door, transformer, utility box, ground braid, side rails, prop rod, speaker and vent grills.

The Coin Door board from DumbAss was added.

Note that I added corner braces to the inside and outside corners that will really add to the rigidity of the new cabinet.

Currently adding Molex connectors and Trifurcons to the cabinet wiring harness were they attach in the back box.

My plan is to plug in the transformer and measure the voltages at the back box wiring harness before plugging it into any boards or attaching the back box.

While working on the cabinet harness, I noticed I was missing a 4 pin connector to the Launch button. Something I will make. Then I noticed I needed a couple Diodes 1N4004 that the wires attach to and the Launch Button.

Did I mention I am having so much fun learning and building. A shaker motor is on order from France.

DSCF2830 (resized).JPG

DSCF2831 (resized).JPG

DSCF2832 (resized).JPG

DSCF2833 (resized).JPG

DSCF2834 (resized).JPG

DSCF2835 (resized).JPG

DSCF2836 (resized).JPG

The Cabinet is wired up with Ground Braid and Transformer to Lower Cabinet wire Harness (Gray bundle) to Coin door.
After a successful trip to Pinfest at Allentown, I procured and installed PinGrafix side blades, as well a sheet of incredible Voodoo Glass.
Searching for 1/4" Hex standoffs that support the ramps left and right. I managed to get a few from a previous teardown but not a complete set. And the ones I need are not stocked (1.5" long). Collecting obsolete parts is a challenge. Right?

DSCF2874 (resized).JPG

DSCF2875 (resized).JPG

DSCF2876 (resized).JPG

I located the hex posts I was looking for in the parts list, but no one carries them. 1 9/16". So, I have opted to go with the 1 5/8" ones on Marcos site. I also got a Back Glass for the Translight, that no one at Pinfest had. Lastly, I ordered new Ramps for the playfield with decals. That will mean making some new switch roll under cables and switches. The Opto pair on the top ramp will be a challenge, as it requires a metal mounting that needs to be riveted to the bottom of the ramp. Hmmm. Pictures to follow, once parts arrive next week.

New ramps arrived from Marcos. I put the decals on. I installed the 2 switches, Optos and wires with connectors. Cliffy sells a ramp protector for the large left ramp on left side. Marcos sells the right Guard Bracket Ramp Support (01-9614-R) but not the Left for the Right Ramp. Cliffys sells ramp protectors for a Bugs Bunny that look similar to the ones for the right ramp. That leaves the left ramp Right side (9" long). I am trying to modify a 9.25 one from an old Batman game.

DSCF3006 (resized).JPG

DSCF3007 (resized).JPG

DSCF3008 (resized).JPG

I found that while connecting and tracing wires from the new Ramp Switches/Optos, that I was missing a connection of wires to the 10 Opto board from the large ramp Opto. I made a new 4 wire cable for it. I also built a new 10 OPTO board from @dumbass.

DSCF3070 (resized).JPG

DSCF3071 (resized).JPG

DSCF3074 (resized).JPG

DSCF3076 (resized).JPG

DSCF3077 (resized).JPG

DSCF3078 (resized).JPG

New 10 Opto board installed and cabled up. I am still tracing a few wires to find out what is missing from under the playfield. I thought I had accounted for all the switches and lights on the Matrixes, but still have a few unknown loose wires.

DSCF3085 (resized).JPG

Good news that Ron kruzman is doing his magic touch to the NOS Playfield I bought from him. It was previously owned by a Bally employee and stored since 1992. Ron has sanded the original clear, repainted the tiny black lines around the inserts and then will put multiple glass like coats of clear and polish it to perfection. I am sure the game will play superfast. I do have to wait for the PF to cure though, once I get it shipped to me in a hand built wooden crate. Then the fun of PF swap starts. I am ready.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/kruzman-monthly-playfield-thread/page/44#post-7014936

Notice in one of the pictures that he has tiny taped off the fine lines to be repainted around the inserts. Attention to details.

9df62211da5f3bd94ad2eb978c7ca41746329c2d (resized).jpg

8b1ffa6fbbf470f83917de62538e28dfffbdb2bc (resized).jpg

04e0817e75b5a745265c5585e95f18a9367a2b7f (resized).jpg

49d34ea8f536359b480a8aa34f0c6a54d0f037aa (resized).jpg

67078f82ddb0a4a66056d45f69e76d9b0d2c8466 (resized).jpg

275fc119f9da252e62fed954c55691c8add0798c (resized).jpg

1ba4ca76ed2df06ef0c5109e0b28167568756655 (resized).jpg

90c1b02c098113459e56577c61422c471546579c (resized).jpg

One last sand and clear coat to go and PF already looks like glass. I have the rotisiere ready to begin the PF swap once it finally arrives. I have a ton of new parts and wires. The ULF smooth lifter kit just arrived. So I will begin that transformation. I have already built the Mark Davidson moving Dalek head topper.

11e5cbf27e15e88adec403b8d6f1b3a2461edcc4 (resized).jpg

The Ulf Smooth MPF lifter kit arrived and has been assembled. Awaiting the new NOS MPF wood to attach it too. Meanwhile, I will rewire the MPF harness with new wires and connectors. I have already built the 5 button Opto switches with boards from DumbAss and new wires from @wire-bot. I have a new plastic top cover that needs to have the riveted 2 lights attached and decaled. It is slowly coming together.

297970995_5748479135176321_5657533861399333526_n (resized).jpg297371722_5748478995176335_7876234650012821474_n (resized).jpg297061217_5748478798509688_3935211563740143071_n (resized).jpg

NOS PF curing at Ron Kruzmans after several coats of clear. I have made a plexiglass template of all the dimples and holes that need to be made from an old PF. That will be a challenge drilling a zillion tiny holes for screws to attach all the pieces parts.

b12faf5cf91b67d727a9a8a0b18f2d8080ab85d9 (resized).jpg

More pictures of the Ron Kruzman treatment of clearing my NOS PF. Looks like glass.

18fce942c41e2a7282931f3a055e3d6a48ee0c48 (resized).jpg50effdabb633a76727890281109619aa2741139c (resized).jpg6cda626d3bdc949fbfe5d44bf58c65887fd4e985 (resized).jpg

The PINNDOC rotisserie is painted/assembled and waiting for the PF to arrive via the slow mail system.

DSCF3134 (resized).JPG

DSCF3142 (resized).JPG

See attached photos of the awesome shipping crate and sandwiched Styrofoam that my beloved PF arrived from Ron kruzman. The last 3 photos show I have attached the Plexi drilling templates, as guides to adding the dimples and holes that need to be drilled in advance of attaching any hardware. Ron provides the dimple drilling for a fee, But I had an old PF and thought I would give it a try. I even copied all the already drilled holes, open spaces, and where the light shines through plastics, so I would have a good matchup from the old PF to the new. The Red highlights are where the plastics are and open holes. The Blue highlights are where TNUTS already have holes but need cleaning the clear out. The Plexi will even prevent scratches on the top Playfield, while I drill all the dimples in the back of the PF. After all the predrilling, the PF will move over to the PINDOC rotisserie for assembly phase.

DSCF3184 (resized).JPG

DSCF3186 (resized).JPG

DSCF3188 (resized).JPG

DSCF3190 (resized).JPG

DSCF3192 (resized).JPG

Well, that did not take long (1 hour) of drilling the dimple holes on both sides of the PF with the Plexi template! I think I got them all. Very few on the top side, which was greatest concern. Next step is to get the holes to the appropriate size for the screw that will be going in the hole. Glad I have a precision caliper to do my measuring. This is getting exciting and fun!

DSCF3198 (resized).JPG

DSCF3196 (resized).JPG

DSCF3200 (resized).JPG

DSCF3202 (resized).JPG

DSCF3204 (resized).JPG

Progress this week on populating the NOS PF. After Dimpling all the holes in the PF and then making them half the size of the impending screws, I installed the 9 Pop Bumber screws. Next was adding the new top of the Pop Bumpers with the LED rings. The spoon switches were added and aligned with the red pop bumper skirt post. Last was adding the 3 new coils. Wiring to follow much later, but I have the coils ready with numbered plugs already.

PF20 (resized).JPGPF23 (resized).JPGPF24 (resized).JPGPF27 (resized).JPGPF29 (resized).JPGPF39 (resized).JPG

3 Flipper Coils, 1 VUK Coil, 2 Sling Coils, and 1 Trough Launch Coil were added to the new PF with numbered plugs. Then the Light Boards with new bulbs were installed and screwed down on stantions.

Prep for the wiring harness is ongoing. The three sets of targets will make the move next. I still have a few unknown wires that need to attach somewhere.
Happy Halloween!!! Boo....

PF25 (resized).JPGPF26 (resized).JPGPF37 (resized).JPGPF38 (resized).JPGPF34 (resized).JPG

The wiring harness is officially installed! Huzzah~! Damn that was a lot of nut driver turning. 3 wires decided to break off in the transition and had to be soldered back on. The Pop Bumper spoon switches were soldered on. The hardest part so far was soldering the Pop Bumber light cables. Well, there are now 6 burn spots on the back of the playfield where the wires were attached. A smarter move would have been to have some asbestos cloth under the wires while soldering. Too late now. I am on a roll...

In some of the pictures you can see the old worn-out PF that I borrowed from Rich Wick to trace all the dimple holes and to mock up all the pieces/parts that I have been collecting. It made the PF swap install a whole lot easier. And allowed me to still play my working Doctor Who.

Next, I need to start installing the top of the PF with standoffs, ramps, plastics, side rails, etc. The PINDOC rotisserie is essential for a PF build up. On my first restore of the first Dr Who. I worked on it, out of the cabinet, leaning against car tires and resting on a towel.

I am gaining confidence in the pinball maintenance game. Time will tell when I hook up all the wires and hear the dreaded gong of the sound board telling me I got errors and troubles.

DSCF3243 (resized).JPG

DSCF3245 (resized).JPG

DSCF3247 (resized).JPG

DSCF3249 (resized).JPG

DSCF3251 (resized).JPG

DSCF3253 (resized).JPG

Very interesting and learning is the key to progress. Only 1 day too late to learn this. Oh well. The website I was using to learn about Pop Bumper install, recommended the flat wire socket, because you have to ty-wrap the round leads in an S configuration to get the lamp socket to sit upright.

According to Vids Guide. "If you somehow got stuck with the flexible wire lead Lamp Holders, you have now probably discovered that they won't go down very far into the Body, and tend to fall to one side or another.

You need to fix this with a Zip-tie so the Holder can go all the way down to the bottom of the body.

Next time, make sure you buy the stiff wire leads, LOL.:"

3a123858fde83fbd455c6460c9a16fb26dd035d4 (resized).jpg

abb82b37a60eab578a53ba727743bb26757edf9c (resized).jpg

pinballinreno if you look closely on Post 24, you can see I already have the multi LED pop Lights. That I stole from your resto. LOL. So I see why it would be easier to use the insulated wire leads for the bulb holders in that case. And could have easily added Molex connectors. Maybe next time, if there is one.
Thanks, Chris

Populating the top of the playfield is very challenging. I started at the flipper area and am working towards the other end. Many holes need to be enlarged, as the clear coat made them smaller. I install parts, then find, I have to remove them to dremel out a hole next to where I just installed a bunch of parts. So many different types of posts and screws. I have my working Pinball half disassembled, trying to figure out where all the parts go on the new pinball.

I have had my NOS Bally Doctor Who PF that Ron Kruzman cleared for a couple weeks, and I am slowly closing in on the population.

I cut 3 new black side rails that I got from Pinball Life. Two of them had to be notched for the 3rd flipper on left side and the shooter lane gate.

Attached is a current picture of the top of the PF population.

Next up are new ramps/switches and back rail install.

The MPF part of the install is going to be a whole other job. (Motor, elevator, 2 coils, 4 lights, etc.).

DSCF3262 (resized).JPG

DSCF3265 (resized).JPG

DSCF3267 (resized).JPG

DSCF3269 (resized).JPG

DSCF3273 (resized).JPG

This plastic piece I had to hunt down and found in Germany. I had to have Zitt get it for me in a group purchase, as they do not sell or ship to the US. Then I had to build a new harness onto a female 3 pin plug and solder it onto the 2 opposing lamp sockets. Was kind of surprised, when I found the matching plug under the PF waiting for me. I had wondered what the red, blue wires were going to attach to. LOL.

My next task is to attach the under-playfield subway with 3 switches that feeds the VUK under the Tardis. I have put an interior walls inside the Tardis and a blue LED to shine out the top of the improved Tardis that was once a USB device. It looks better than the original with Stickers.

DSCF3274 (resized).JPG

Tardis1 (resized).JPG

Tardis (resized).jpg

Tardis19 (resized).JPG

Good to know! They are comet LEDs that I had left over and fit the sockets. I will switch over to 906s immediately.

First real cold day of winter. Brrr 48 degrees F and sunny.

The new Subway from Marcos was added to the bottom of the PF. One of the white wires had broken off and required soldering back on.

I test rolled a pinball across all the switches and found that the Switch on "Hang On" Alley just past the third flipper would allow the ball to go across it but not allow ball to roll back across the switch. I swapped out the switch with a different one and soldered that one on. More better.

I attached both ramps and that required some reverse engineering. I had drilled a hole in the PF for the Black rail on the left side, not realizing that was where there was a gap in the rails to put a Stantion/Post to support the larger back ramp and the trap door. This meant, I had to glue a toothpick in the hole to accommodate the smaller screw threads of the Stantion.

Then all the plugs were connected to the 10 Opto board and switches connectors.

Attached are pictures of my current state of progress. Oh and I attended the 50th Anniversary of the YES Close to the Edge Concert.

DSCF3281 (resized).JPGDSCF3283 (resized).JPGDSCF3285 (resized).JPGDSCF3286 (resized).JPG315421971_6044031958954369_8505457568859116187_n (resized).jpg

The playfield has landed into the new cabinet! The front hooks however required a lot of massaging, hammering, bending to get them fit into the slide bar. So my next task is to build the MPF with the Ulf smooth lifter kit. kruzman is finishing up clearing and buffing the NOS MPF. It should arrive soon.

To follow on with my issues in building a Doctor Who pinball machine, I had ordered a new carrier baffle from @swinks. I ordered new 5 Opto Board, new grey mushroom buttons, springs and 1/4" C-clips from Marcos. I built new boards from DumbAss and bought them from Pindora Box as well. 3 sets of new boards to go with my 2 sets of original boards that each have a different Opto non-functioning. Overkill, I know.

First I found that the C-clips were interfering with one side of the Swinks dividers. So I dremel tooled them so that they would not bind. When I installed any of the Opto boards onto the carrier, the Clips would then hit or not pass the LEDs or would get stuck closed. I checked Marcos site again and I had ordered the right part supposedly. I did a further search on the internet and found that there were smaller OD C-clips out there. I ordered them from McMaster-Carr in NJ. The smallest order was 25. So if anyone needs one cause it flew off and can't find it. I will slip one in the mail to you. The first picture shows the problem of the larger C-clips. The following picture shows the size difference installed.

DSCF3357 (resized).JPG

DSCF3363 (resized).JPG

DSCF3365 (resized).JPG

Thanks swinks for the advice. I love your products. I will flat black paint the insides as suggested. I actually have all 3 of those Channels. I was trying to point out the error of my ways by using the wrong C-clips. They were the only ones available from marcos, so I thought they were the correct ones. I know better now. Trial and error.

The NOS MPF has arrived from Ron Kruzman with one of his beautiful clear coats on it. He had to remove the T-nuts, so that they would not be filled with clear coat. My next job is to dremel out the areas where T-nuts sit. Then I can begin to build it up from there with the ULF smooth lifter kit, new plastic dome, Cliffys and Cliffy colored posts. New Opto boards, carrier, mushrooms, springs, C-clips...

DSCF3367 (resized).JPG

DSCF3368 (resized).JPG

I will be adding a mylar on top of the MPF. Right after I put the Cliffy's on. I just finished dremeling out the excess clear that was in the T-nut cavities. Then attached the 18 T-nuts. 14 T-nuts are 8-32 and 4 are 6-32. See my collection of MPF's in the picture. Which one should I use? LOL

320210272_1685926011809436_3939648488725600130_n (resized).jpg

Cliffy's and Mylar added to the top of the MPF.
Metal side rails, posts added to the MPF
Plastic cover, with decal, lamps and wires added.
Coils, lights, target added to the bottom of the MPF.
Ulf smooth lifter kit, motor and gearbox bolted on.

Next step is to add the mushroom/Optos target box.

DSCF3376 (resized).JPG

DSCF3384 (resized).JPG

DSCF3382 - Copy (resized).JPG

DSCF3387 - Copy (resized).JPG

DSCF3380 - Copy (resized).JPG

DSCF3390 - Copy (resized).JPG

DSCF3392 - Copy (resized).JPG

DSCF3397 - Copy (resized).JPG

DSCF3398 - Copy (resized).JPG

DSCF3402 - Copy (resized).JPG

Can you say Opto boards? I desoldered the Great Lakes Opto boards and reused the plug and wires. That old set of boards had one Opto Pair out (switch 74).

The good news is that the new ones from Pindora Box was wired up, tested in my working Dr. Who pinball machine and worked perfectly once I added a thin shim to the blue side of the boards. The shim from ULF was 0.045" thick. The shim allowed the mushrooms to slide in and out without hitting or catching on the LED bulbs.

The new Gulf Opto boards from Marcos did not work at all. Need to check the wiring from the plug to see if I made a mistake on those. I built the wires and plug myself. The green board reads 1.4 volts to each of the LEDs. The Blue Board reads OL (Open Line).

Something I remembered from previous MPF build, was that the Opto Carrier with boards and screws, was a tight fit. Then add a spacer and it gets even tighter. So, I took out my precision caliper and started measuring.

With the 3 Dalek Target tunnel installed without the Mushroom Opto Carrier, the distance between it and the Cliffy on the MPF was 1.27"
The Mushroom Carrier with boards, shim, fish paper and screws measured 1.37". Too big.
This meant, I need to shim the 4 machine 8/32 screws under the feet of the Dalek Target tunnel about 0.10". This was accomplished with a thick and a thin #8 washers. Time will tell if this shim affects game play.

DSCF3405 (resized).JPG

DSCF3407 (resized).JPG

DSCF3409 (resized).JPG

I knew it but had already bought them last year. I decided to wire them up and see if they would work. LOL.

Interesting thing about the Gulf Pinball boards from Marcos. They are printed and traced the same on both blue and green boards. So, you have to be careful when soldering the wires to them. You can either: 1. orient the boards with the wires coming off the back on the blue board and the green board you have to have the wires solder points towards the front of the carrier. OR 2. solder the orange and grey wires to the boards so that the LED Transmitter points to matching LED RCV. Example: The orange with green stripe wire goes to the LED that the Grey with green stripe wire goes to the matching LED Receiver. Now this would work if the boards actually worked. Which in my case definitely did not. I have noticed that other companies' boards are wired just like the original so that you don't have to get creative with matching wire colors.

The Pindora Box boards worked perfectly right out of the box. I have another set ordered. Good to have spares on hand.

Here is a really good explanation of OPTP switches. How they work, and what goes wrong. FYI
https://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index3.htm#opto

I have been wondering about the Lock Down Bar brass screws for a while now. My number 1 working Dr. Who pinball machine has always had a very tight lockdown bar that was hard to move the yellow handle. My current resto build number 2 Dr. Who pinball machine will not lock down the bar at all. It has been low on my list of priorities. So I did a little research and found this tip.

Mr. Pinball Tip:
If your playfield glass lockdown bar (that's the metal piece that your hands rest on while playing) is loose, it can usually be easily tightened. Open the coin door and you will find a lever to the top or right side. Pull this lever to the left. This releases the bar. You should then be able to lift the bar straight up.
On most Gottlieb's you can just adjust the screws on the underside of the bar. On Williams the adjustment screws are brass, mounted on top of the strip of metal through which the bar fins pass. Clockwise tightens, counter-clockwise loosens. On Bally's I believe you can tighten them from underneath, but I've never found a loose Bally lockdown bar, so I'm not sure.
On all machines, when you tighten the bar, you will find that the lever is more difficult to move. Some small amount of lubrication on the sliding parts will help this.

mike200mph
https://www.pindorabox.com/product/dr-who-5-target-opto-board-set-a-15431-32/
I bought them direct with paypal. Took about 10 days to get to Washington DC from Wherever they are located. Germany I think or Netherlands...Europe?

Good news/Bad news post...

The Head has been mated to the cabinet! Huzzah!!!

The process of attaching all the cabinet and PF cables to the boards in the head has been completed.

I found several errors in wiring and labeling along the way. I had x2 J125 connectors with the same color wires. One going to the back Glass lights/flashers. The other one went down into the cabinet.

The MPF needs to be installed soon.

Happy New Year.

DSCF3448 (resized).JPG

DSCF3449 (resized).JPG

DSCF3450 (resized).JPG

DSCF3451 (resized).JPG

The J125 issue has been figured out. I built a wiring harness for the Back Box Light board and terminated it with a Molex connector and labeled it J125. Which was correct. In the process of rebuilding the used wiring harness for the cabinet and PF, I looked at the color of the wires, which are identical to J125. So, I put a 9 pin molex connector on that and labeled it J125 also. I was missing a 13-pin connector at J126. When I looked up the wiring colors in the manual for J126, I found that they were identical to J125 but on a 13-pin connector that comes from the PF. Luckily, I had a new 13-pin Molex in my spares box. A 8 snips from the wire cutters, 8 wire stripping steps, 8 crimps later the problem was solved.

I need a single black wire coming from the cabinet speaker to go to somewhere on the Audio board. I think. I cannot copy what is in Doctor 1 pinball as that now has a Pinsound+ stereo board and stereo wires to the speakers. Time to look at the Audio board schematics.

The MPF is all ready to install, adjust position of MPF in the hole (front to back) and then connect wires.

Although I have a Mark Davidson moving dalek head. I am going to get the basics working first. Like hooking the power up and turning on.

The wiring diagram for the original speakers was in the manual and an easy hookup.

I installed the MPF 3 times to get the right frontal gap distance. Initially it was too tight with the 3 pieces of Cliffy metal in that same space. Luckily, with the ULF smooth lifter kit, there is an adjustable slot to move the MPF forward and back. I found that the 4 screws holding the lifter mechanism needed to be a little off center of the slotted hole. I doubled up a business card and used that as my shim distance on the front of the MPF. It looks fantastic.

Next, I started connecting up all wires for the MPF in the cabinet. All but one connection was there. Opps. A 4-pin connector with 3 red wires and one Yellow/green stripe wire was coming from the MPF, but no matching one on the harness. Oh dear. It is the GI wires to the top of the plastic dome lights that flash. This does not stop the build, but it will require research into what connector on the PWR board these 4 wires come from. From looking at the My working game. I see that the plug I am missing has two of each color wire going into it. So, this plug is in a daisy chain to other lights obviously.

The other issue was a 2 pin plug (white/green wire and green wire) that should lead to a matching plug that goes into a large hole in the PF in the back left corner. Another GI light issue that I did not account for. Time to look at my mess of left-over wires to see it I can find either of these in that rats nest.

Although the game would probably turn on without fixing these issues, I am hesitant to do so. Not ready for all the switch errors that I am sure are going to show up.

"The other issue was a 2 pin plug (white/green wire and green wire) that should lead to a matching plug that goes into a large hole in the PF in the back left corner."

This set of wires turned out to be the Opto on the top left ramp. Easy fix, once I fished the plug out of that large hole.

I tried tracing the Yellow with green strip wire in the original machine. It goes left and right in the PF harness at the back. But I was unable to find it the ends yet. I looked on the PWR Board and only found a Yellow with Green dots. The manual only states Yellow/Green. So I assume, it goes from Dots to stripe somewhere in the daisy chain. I am frustrated and did not chase the 3 red wires yet.

Now for the bad news... I decided to turn the game on. Missing a few lights should be no big deal. Well I got bigger problems. I flipped the cabinet switch. Some farkles appeared on the DMD screen and went away. A hum came from the speakers. The game did not turn on. Bummer. I did not blow any fuses though. I checked all the Power points on the PWR Board and they all read close to what they should. I turned it off and walked away.

Thanks Victor. While looking at the lamp matrix in the manual, I have found that the Yellow/Green wire starts out with green dots from the PWR board connector but changes somewhere along the line to Yellow with a Green stripe. It connects to the ball lock lights in the MPF and the front flasher on top of the acrylic dome. The controlling red wires are the other 3.

In reviewing a previous post picture before MPF was installed. I can see the 4 pin plug with those wires. It must be hiding from my view and my Braille like touch!

I appreciate the advice that the no Boot is a CPU issue. Someone last year advised me to not take flash pictures of the chip on the CPU board, as it might corrupt it. Makes me wonder. I can also remember some pin wiki about the the LED lights on the top left of the CPU board are supposed to do some special blinking on turn on. I need to watch for that.

The DMD farkles went away just blank after several turn ons. The adventure continues...

I found the missing 4 pin plug that was hiding. The MPF is now fully plugged in!

I have to determine why the CPU board is not booting. It worked 6 months ago when I replaced it with a DumbAss board. At least I have that board and ribbon cables in the working original game to play swap.

Progress. I disconnected all the CPU connectors and left J210 from the PWR board. The 3 LEDs on top left corner finally did what they were supposed to do according to PINWIKI. The top one, D19 went on for a second and went out. The second one, D20 flashed rapidly, like it is supposed to. The third one, D21 stayed on steady, like it was supposed to. I turned the machine off and added one cable at a time and turned on. The end result was that the LEDs were still reacting like they were supposed to, but the DMD looked like it was a fireplace. The game will not start, the GI is not lighting up. But the sound board tells me to keep my hands clear of the MPF, because the glass is off. So it looks like the sound board and associated Roms work.

DSCF3455 (resized).JPG

DSCF3458 (resized).JPG

Well, clumsy me, tripped over my curb in the street while picking up my garbage can. My hip fell on the curb, and I broke it. I have been in a hospital and acute rehab for 2 weeks. Many more weeks of recovery before I can get back to pinball.

Just before I fell, I had figured out that the new Pinball Basement DMD board was the issue causing my DMD display to look like an electric fireplace above. Once i replaced it with an original DMD board from Bally, the display worked perfectly. However, a dozen switch errors appeared on the screen. I individually tested each switch and documented those that were reading wrong. I need to investigate the wiring harness further, when I am better. I noticed at least one of my bad new switches was missing the diode. I will now have time on my hands to track down the wiring harness diagrams for those switch errors. I can do that from my recliner.

I have fixed several new switches that were missing diodes. I changed a leaf switch from a two tab to a 3 tab on the slings (not that I think it mattered). I bent several wire rollover switches so that they would close and register. I went through the switch matrix in the manual and confirmed continuity again between the CPU connector and where it lands on each switch that they are all the right colors with a VOM. I moved a trough switch closer to the trip wire, so that it would register.

I swapped out the coin door board that I built with one from the working pinball machine and it made no difference in either machine. I confirmed continuity from the coin door board connector to the CPU connectors.

Even with all that investigation and verifying that the 3 lights on the CPU were blinking right (per pinwiki), I still have some switch errors. Several of them (an entire row) all think they are the last one in the row, when running switch test. All the 6 Optos in the MPF have errors. The CW and CCW of the MPF motor has errors. I have even tried switching the leads to the motor.

The game will boot up, give me a credit dot, do a boing from the sound board. Tell me that the coin door is open. The coin door switch is not connected, because when I do and close the door....it goes into SLAM TILT and shuts down. So, I have contacted a local pinball tech to come over and tell me what I have done wrong. Also in the meantime, I have ordered a spare complete CPU from Pinsound. Just in case that is the problem.

The Good News: With advice from Victor and PinballinReno, I was able to determine several of my switch problems. One sling switch was missing a diode. One switch had a diode on backwards. One switch had the White wire on the wrong end of the switch. The Trap Door down switch was being permanently closed due to the spring on the coil holding switch closed (moved switch away from spring). Return lane switch was stuck closed by rubbing on the PF and staying down.

All lessons learned about switches and how sensitive they are in physical position and wiring.

I am also learning about this damn Switch Matrix and how it can confuse you by the errors that the Test function displays.
For example: during Single Switch Test mode, if you close a switch that was identified as an error, it is supposed to show you the switch number and colors of wire it should be. However, in error mode it can give you a different switch number and color wire of a switch next to it in the column or row. If you pulse the switch slowly, you can see the real number and color of wire for a second and then holding the switch closed, you see the switch next to it or on the end of the row or column.

Here is a YouTube video describing what I am seeing.

and

The Bad News: My current problem is that if I close the coin door, the pinball machine goes into SLAM TILT mode. Which is switch just above it in the Matrix Row. Now SLAM TILT switch works like it supposed to. With coin door switch (# 22) unhooked, the machine tells you to close the coin door. All the wires from CPU Switch connectors have been traced correctly to all the Switches on the PF (Green and White), so it is not a broken wire or a wire placed wrong in the connectors.

Switch # 21 Slam Tilt works
Switch # 31 Opto Popper says it's in error
Switch # 41 (E)SCAPE thinks it is switch # 42
Switch # 51 (R)EPAIR thinks it is switch # 52
Switch # 61 Left Pop Bumper thinks it is switch # 62

Switch # 57 Trap Door thinks it is closed in error mode but not in test mode.
Switch # 26 Pinball 2 shows up in error mode also.

On top of all of that, the MPF has NO CW or CCW errors. Even though I have tried switching the polarity of wires going to the motor.

I am not complaining, just stating the current state of affairs, as I work through the last of these issues. I wish I had more room to put the PF back on the Rotisserie but I don't right now. Plus I am still disabled and am not supposed to lift heavy objects. I am having hard enough time just walking with a walker.

Today's Good News:
I replaced 2 old Diodes on the large white Ball Trough switches (just in case) but it made no difference (peace of mind).
I adjusted Ball 2 Trough switch so that it would register when a ball there.
I replaced the Hang-On Switch as it was not working (even though it was new). Apparently, I melted the switch when I attached both the white wire and Diode.
I replaced an orginal MPF Motor board with the upgraded one that comes with the Smooth Lifter kit from Ulf that pellew makes. I still got "No CW or CCW movement error". But this Motor Board allows you to raise and lower the MPF with a button on the board. I was able to test the mushroom Opto Buttons.

The more bad news...While comparing the Switch Matrix dots on both the working machine and the New machine, I noticed the difference between them. (See Photos). The Orange screen is the New machine. The third screen shot of New Machine shows when the glass switch is closed. Note how it brightens the top 2 corner dots and it should only be one. The Yellow blocks are the not used switches. The Green Dots show which switches are working. The Orange Dots show which switches are NOT working. The entire top row. There is an answer here for sure.

I also color coded the paper Switch Matrix from the manual to show which switches work and which don't. (See Photo).

DSCF3481 (resized).JPG

DSCF3485 (resized).JPG

DSCF3487 (resized).JPG

DSCF3489 (resized).JPG

Six Hours of diagnosing this Switch problem has more raised more questions than answers. I had a tech recheck all the work I had done.

1. He checked the disconnected Connectors J206 and J208 all the way to switches on the playfield and found no shorts between White/Brown and White/Red (the two rows that appear to be shorted when you close any of those switches and both colored wires show up on the DMD screen when connected to the CPU).

2. We disconnected Optos on the PF from the 10 Opto Board.
3. We replaced the 10 Opto Board.
4. We replaced the CPU board from the working pinball machine next to it. Both boards worked in the old machine.
5. We checked that all the Diodes in both rows were going the right way.
6. We made sure that none of the blades of leaf switches were touching.

Round and Round we went.

7. Finally with all the bottom Switch connectors disconnected from the CPU, the tech jumpered the White/Brown pin from the CPU to the corresponding Green pin for each of the switches in Rows 1 and 2 .... The DMD showed they were doing the same thing as when you closed one of the same switches on the PF. But the PF was not connected. So the problem is somewhere in the Back Box. And we have already confirmed that the both CPU's work in the old game without causing any issue. We checked to see if anything was touching the back of the CPU board, but it is smooth clean Back plane.

Time was up, it was getting late and we were still stumped.

During checking the Opto pairs on the PF, we discovered that #31 Opto Popper and the MPF Wheel Opto was not working. They were both new from Marcos. The same place that has bad MPF 5 Opto Boards. Looking for another distributor for those.

Huzzah! Eureka!!! I found the root cause of the mystery Matrix issues. The short Ribbon Cable from the CPU to the Power Board must have been off by one row. Even though I had moved the ribbon cable on the CPU side several times when swapping 3 different CPUs, I had not moved it from Power Board side.

With the game now booting up, the GI circuit came on and I found that several of my new bulbs were out. Easy fixes, to swap them out, until I found a whole column of 3 out in front of the MPF. Upon inspection, I found a bad broken diode on the board. Luckily, I have a spare of that lamp board and swapped it out. The only hassle was that it was under the subway ramp.

Now I am chasing coil problems. Some work, some don't, and the VUK under the Tardis is underpowered to kick the ball out onto the rails.

Are we having fun yet? Well, at least I am able to keep Doctor Who number one going, what with switching working components in and out.

Picture One is showing a correct Switch Matrix finally, and that the Coin Door now closes without going into Slam Tilt.

Picture Two is showing the top of my beautiful PF with glowing GI circuit working.

Picture Three is the bottom of my PF with the GI circuit working.

DSCF3492 (resized).JPG

DSCF3494 (resized).JPG

DSCF3496 (resized).JPG

I am currently chasing numerous issues with the Flippers, Flipper Boards, Fliptronics Board, EOS Errors.

I had to swap the outer wires on the 3 lug UL flipper coil. My mistake.

I adjusted the EOS leaf switches to make sure they were open by a match bookcover, and easily closed by the flipper.

I pushed the wires on original IDC connectors so that they made better contact. The EOS errors went away.

I kept blowing F904 Fuse (3x) when I powered on the machine. The first two times was on the original Green Williams Board. Then I disconnected the wires to the Fliptronics board. Then made sure there was continuity in each wire to the flipper coils and that those wires were not shorting to ground. Believing the board was possibly bad. I installed a fairly new board from Victor. It blew the fuse too. Then I put a new coil in that UL spot and the problem appears to have gone away. See pictures of the Williams board.

But in the meantime, one of the EOS errors on the right flipper has returned.

At least I got to play a few games. That slick new PF and new balls fly around really fast.

334303243_2122279604609103_6050031958737984448_n (resized).jpg

One EOS switch error is intermittent. So the planned fix is buying .100 Molex connectors and replacing the 30 year old IDC connectors. Great Plains went out of business, which was my main supplier of connectors. I have resorted to paying too much for them from a Robotics company (BC ROBOTICS). One Arcade supplier on Ebay is charging $12 per connector.

I adjusted several rollover switches in the out lanes that were not registering when the ball went over them. The Upper Ramp switch in the left corner was trapping balls. It was adjusted. The middle subway switch was not registering. That took some creative bending to get it to work.

Speaking of creative bending...The coil that shoots ball up the ball trough would shoot the ball and it would bounce back. I removed the apron to watch the action. At first glance, I did not see any reason for it. Then I removed the apron of my other Dr. Who sitting next to it. Low and behold, there was this wire gate that would not allow the ball to travel backwards. I bent a paper clip to a similar shape. It worked a few times, but the metal was too soft. I next modified a wire gate from a spare gate. (First pic)

I also noticed that even with that wire gate, I was still getting kick backs. I measured the distance from the top of the hill of the ball trough to the top of the metal wall. My new pinball machine trough was 5/16" higher (second pic) than the one in my other machine (third pic). This gave the ramp a higher pitch and the ball would hit the apron and bounce back. I had to remove the Ball switches (fourth pic) and then the ball trough. I persuaded the hill of the trough to bend down that 5/16". I left the back 2 screw holes in the same place in the middle of the PF. Then 2 new holes had to be drilled 1/8" further towards the edge of the PF. Perfect fit and works perfect now.

No credit dot for a few games and then it showed up again. The Exit Jets rollover switch is now not registering. I am wondering if that is why I am not going into video mode.

detail (resized).jpg

DSCF3474 (resized).JPG

334730378_748024646948502_413206745729236483_n (resized).jpg

329184738_739062770940320_8300476714951382078_n (resized).jpg

After a couple attempts to adjust the Exit Jets rollover switch, the video mode now launches.

I leveled the pinball machine at all 4 corners. Played several games, then the upper left flipper started acting up, either not flipping or weakly flipping. Back to the drawing board on Flipper 101 basics. But I am so close to it being perfect. No Credit Dot. No errors.

I might start to add the Mark Davidson Wobble Head Dalek Topper, the ColorDMD, the Pinsound custom soundtrack, the shaker.

One of the issues with Upper Left Flipper was the Grey Wire loop into the old IDC connector. After 10 games the flipper became weak. I some 6/32 screws and nuts in the bottom of the cabinet. Not immediately obvious. I grab the flipper mechanism under the PF and it is really loose. I see that the 3 bolts for the white plastic spacer that the Flipper Bat runs through backed out. I put some blue Thread Lock on them and the nut.

I have the Pinsound+ audio board, Pinsound DMD Board, Pinsound Shaker Board and COLORDMD now installed. The Dual Voltage MOD Power supply kit is next to be installed. Then the moving Dalek. I wanted to get the game going before I put the new expensive boards in. I had a left over set of wires when I was done. Temporarily confused, I re-read the COLOR DMD instructions and realized it was not needed.

The .100 Molex connectors have arrived. So more switching over to those from IDCs.

LED version. It was smaller. I had already bought a new 7 doctors light board from Europe.

For your viewing pleasure, I have attached a few pictures this months progress. See if you can spot why I flew up a Fliptronics board between the Yellow coil and the Orange coil. I took all the good Victors DumbAss red boards and put them in the new machine. I put all the old green boards in the original machine. I also noticed that not only several bad hacks on the old original Sound Board, that a seriously hacked IDC connectors needed to be replaced. Both machines are wired back up. I am now hesitant to fire both up to see what is wrong now.

Lesson learned: When you move old wires and connectors around, and change boards, you are looking for trouble with future diagnostics. Crosses fingers this time.

DSCF3501 (resized).JPG

DSCF3499 (resized).JPG

DSCF3502 (resized).JPG

DSCF3504 (resized).JPG

DSCF3507 (resized).JPG

DSCF3508 (resized).JPG

DSCF3514 (resized).JPG

DSCF3517 (resized).JPG

DSCF3519 (resized).JPG

DSCF3522 (resized).JPG

DSCF3524 (resized).JPG

DSCF3527 (resized).JPG

DSCF3529 (resized).JPG

They are currently out of stock, last I checked.

All wired up! With Victors: Red CPU, FLiptronics, Powerboard and Pinsounds Audio+, DMD and Shaker Boards. COLORDMD LED. Flipper Fidelty Stereo Speakers, and Shaker motor. Also seen next to the Transformer is the Aux Power Supply with +12 and + 5 Volts.

DSCF3531 (resized).JPG

DSCF3532 (resized).JPG

DSCF3534 (resized).JPG

OH MY GAUD!!! It's ALIVE!!!
Everything works perfectly. It plays so fast. Air Balls during multi-ball. I did a 2 player game and both were high scoring games. It was so exciting. Still have to fix the original one next to it that I robbed parts out of. Tomorrow the Mark Davidson Dalek gets installed!

DSCF3536 (resized).JPG

DSCF3538 (resized).JPG

DSCF3540 (resized).JPG

DSCF3542 (resized).JPG

DSCF3548 (resized).JPG

DSCF3550 (resized).JPG

Time for the Mark Davidson Wobble head Dalek Install. I painted the Dalek ahead of time, as I like it silvery Aluminum color with middle part black with silver rings and blue rings on the eye stalk. I cut the insides of the Dalek head to fit the rectangular Mechanism plate. I also like the top part of the head to fit as flush as possible so that less light leaks out on the edges. I plugged in the harness to all the right spots on the WPC Power board and CPU. I love that Mark labeled each wire where it is supposed to plug into. I had marked where the front set of lights should mount, as well as the Motor Mech and the clear plastic dome that fits over the whole assembly. Though I prefer to leave that dome off for aesthetic reasons. From the pictures you can see, I have a few Dalek heads. One day, I will make a Supreme Dalek in white and gold trim. I am considering putting the cheaper UK servo version of the wobble head inside that. Note to self: Future Project.

DSCF3552 (resized).JPG

DSCF3555 (resized).JPG

DSCF3558 (resized).JPG

DSCF3560 (resized).JPG

The game is fully functional. It plays wicked fast, with new balls and that glass like PF. The older resto next to does not get airballs like this one. I must have the right combination of flipper placement and MPF metal wall settings, as I can get both balls locked within seconds of starting the game. The tradeoff is that it is not as easy getting to the alley way behind the MPF (i.e. pop bumpers and video mode), compared to the older one. I noticed that the new black legs that I got a good deal on from Marcos at Pinfest are 6 inches taller than stock. Which is OK for me as I am a tall guy anyway.

I need to take a video of the play action.

DSCF3567 (resized).JPG

Thus, begins Chapter 3 of my building Doctor Who pinball machines.
First, I got many hard parts from a parted-out machine in Dallas Texas area.
Second, I got a chopped up wiring harness from Germany.
Third, I got Coils, Flipper parts, back glass, LEDs, bulbs, and bulb holders while attending Allentown Pinfest this year.
Fourth, I got a Back Box light board from a guy on Ebay and those elusive bulb holders that fit it from a nice vendor at Allentown.
Fifth, I got the green PF lamp boards from Germany.

Well, I have started populating my old worn PF that I got from @wick. This PF was used to figure out drilling dimple holes for Doctor Who #2. I also used it to collect parts and drew part placements on the back of the PF. So, I am building up parts for DW#3. Once I have everything accounted for on this PF, I will order a new one from CPR. Once that is populated, I will order a new cabinet and back box later this summer.

The wiring harness is a hot mess! So many cut wires! No back box connectors. Many switches or lights cut off. All the coil wires were cut off too, but will be easier to fix with connectors.

DSCF3155 (resized).JPG

DSCF3161 (resized).JPG

DSCF3157 (resized).JPG

DSCF3160 (resized).JPG

DSCF3156 (resized).JPG

DSCF3158 (resized).JPG

DSCF3159 (resized).JPG

DSCF3163 (resized).JPG

Black trim??? You mean the plastic covers when I raise the PF?

I have been working on the Bally 1992 pinball wiring harness that was removed rapidly via wire cutters from a parted machine in Germany. All new light sockets, new switches and coils were installed. I added a gazillion Molex connectors and pins to get the wires to stretch to right places. Matching the colors of wires to the right lamp, switch or flipper coil was an interesting challenge. Waiting on another shipment of Molex pins and connectors from Wire-Bot. Shown are all the rusty lamps that I replaced. I was going to try and reuse the roll over switches, but most were bad. So replaced them all. I have labeled all the connections so that when I transfer them to the new CPR PF. I will know where they go. I used the old PF that I labeled during last swap with letters of color wires and outlined positions.

352088852_608258064615112_7527527326075153284_n (resized).jpg

352396260_983384712674699_7265175038330153461_n (resized).jpg

352331769_782134066835996_2353068619523570471_n (resized).jpg

352201308_547648394230347_5601380390750872944_n (resized).jpg

352219326_3465284613739346_314654056508770328_n (resized).jpg

352237230_797089061766951_1186096504990180483_n (resized).jpg

352323108_292173186496611_4342797432802529428_n (resized).jpg

352341494_222823213876660_3330865699655721653_n (resized).jpg

352344371_583804623893704_5498875598788769168_n (resized).jpg

352397400_1441866183297830_9183160925934139234_n (resized).jpg

352331083_633070272037490_4557601551130992481_n (resized).jpg

Things that I have learned from this wiring harness experience. The Playfield has 3 separate harnesses. One for coils (flippers, VUK, Pop Bumpers, Trap Door, Slings, MPF poppers AND Flashers). One for roll over switches, targets, pop bumper leaf switches, flipper (EOS) switches, and Sling switches. One for General Illumination (GI), that includes PCB light boards and Lamp sockets.

The Transformer has its own wire Harness, as does the Cabinet (for coin door, speaker, flipper switch boards).

The Back Box has several of its own Harnesses. DMD board harness, Fliptronics board harness, Audio Board to speakers, and Back Box Lamp board harness.

That last grouping is on the list to make.

I also have to terminate all 3 of the Playfield harnesses with Molex connectors. But need to build/populate a Back Box to know how long the wires need to be.

I was converting a German 220 volt power box over to 120 US voltage box sounded easy. First the plug end had to be changed. Thanks to my neighbor for letting me know what the colors for Hot, Neutral and Ground should be and supplying the 120 v plug end. I changed the Varistor from Euro 220 v green to US 120 v red. Upped the fuse to 8 amps per pinwiki. Added a US 120 volt service receptacle. I also had to change the plug jumper wires that goes to the transformer.

The power box is now ready for install, if I had a cabinet.

356068365_6765821386775419_2138641235108648723_n (resized).jpg

356085588_6765822103442014_4527974508668199274_n (resized).jpg

356063636_6765823036775254_1993223940363082086_n (resized).jpg

356150916_6765824186775139_9145261369534752258_n (resized).jpg

356211389_6765825170108374_8825644033347753101_n (resized).jpg

356173590_6765826743441550_2817646827246720184_n (resized).jpg

356052249_6765828856774672_5765232778087727544_n (resized).jpg

MiniPinHead good catch! I can now remember reading about that, and think I ordered one from Marcos. Now the search begins. First to the paperwork on recently ordered parts. Then to look in the electrical parts box. I know I have another Red Varistor and it should be with that. (Thinking out loud). This is what makes Pinside so great!!!

Good news. My new pinball transformer just showed up from Homepin in Taiwan. I made sure all my cabinet wires fit all the transformer plugs too. This is for my WPC89 Dr Who Build. I also in the mean time added the Thermistor in the switch box as recommended by MiniPinHead .

362657684_6873554242668799_679174327444437665_n (resized).jpg

Thought just occurred to me. Oh no, he thinks. I could now plug the switch box in (I know it works). Then with the transformer plugged in, I could measure all the voltages coming out and verify the correct voltages to back box plugs, before hooking them up to the Power Board. Will document everything later (but not if I get a meltdown).

Great News: No meltdown. All voltages are within tolerance. I had to reach out to Justin at Pinball Life to tell me how to measure the voltages though. They are all AC volts. Most of the colors did not match the color of the existing Cabinet harness, so I did cross walk table.
This is the color wire matching and voltages on the Homepin Transformer WPC89. (5610-12835-00).

Plug A: (2 pin)
x2 Violet wires on Transformer and Cabinet Harness. DMD - 107.7 VAC. To J605-3 and J605-5. Fuse F602.

Plug B: (9 pin)
1. Green/Yellow on Transformer to x2 White/Brown on Cabinet Harness. To J115-2 and J115-3.
3. Yellow on Transformer to x2 Brown on Cabinet Harness. To J115-11 and J115-12.
4. Green/Yellow on Transformer to White/Orange on Cabinet Harness. G.I. - 7.4 VAC. To J115-4.
5. Yellow on Transformer to Yellow/White on Cabinet Harness. To J115-1. Ground.
6. Yellow on Transformer to Green on Cabinet Harness. G.I. - 7.4 VAC. To J115-10.
7. Green/Yellow on Transformer to x2 White/Yellow on Cabinet Harness. To J115-5 and J115-6
9. Yellow on Transformer to x2 Orange on Cabinet Harness. To J115-7 and J115-8.

Plug C: (15 pin)
1. Red on Transformer to Red on Cabinet Harness. 5V Reg. - 9.4 VAC. To J101-1. Fuse 113
2. Red on Transformer to Red on Cabinet Harness. 5V Reg. - 9.4 VAC. To J101-2.
3. Brown on Transformer to White/Red on Cabinet Harness. 5V Reg. - 9.4 VAC. To J101-1.
4. Brown on Transformer to White/Red on Cabinet Harness. Flash Lamp - 16.6 VAC. To J102-1 and J102-2.
5. White on Transformer to White on Cabinet Harness. DMD - 85.4 VAC. To J605-1. Fuse 601.
6. Red on Transformer to Gray on Cabinet Harness. Sound - 19.2 VAC. To J501-4 and J501-5. Fuse 502.
7. Black on Transformer to Black/Yellow on Cabinet Harness. Coils - 54.8 VAC. To J102-8 and J102-9. Fuse 112.
8. White on Transformer to White on Cabinet Harness. DMD - 85.4 VAC. To J605-2.
9. Black on Transformer to Gray/White on Cabinet Harness. Sound - 19.2 VAC. To J501-6 and J501-7.
10. Black on Transformer to Black/Yellow on Cabinet Harness. Coils - 54.8 VAC. To J102-5 and J102-6.
11. Green on transformer to White/Green on Cabinet Harness. 9.8 VAC. To J112-4 and J112-5. Fuse 116
12. Orange on Transformer to Gray/Green on Cabinet Harness. Sound - 19.4 VAC. To J501-1 and J501-2. Fuse 501.
13. Green on transformer to White/Green on Cabinet Harness. 9.8 VAC. To J112-1 and J112-3.
14. Blue on transformer to Blue/White on Cabinet Harness. 12V Reg. - 13.4 VAC. To J101-4 and J101-5. Fuse 114.
15. Blue on transformer to Blue/White on Cabinet Harness. 12V Reg. - 13.4 VAC. To J101-6 and J101-7.

Plug D: (12 pin)
1. Black on Transformer to Black on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 1 Black wire from Power Switch Box. (121.5 VAC line voltage).
2. Black on Transformer to Brown/White on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 2 Black Loop wire.
3. Red on Transformer to Brown/White on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 3 Black Loop wire.
5. White on transformer to nothing (probably for a 220V).
6. White on transformer to nothing (probably for a 220V).
7. Gray on transformer to nothing (probably for a 220V).
9. Blue on Transformer to White/Red on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 7 White wire from Power Switch Box. (121.5 VAC line voltage).
10. Blue on Transformer to Red on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 8 Orange Loop wire.
11. Orange on Transformer to Red on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 9 Orange Loop wire.

Plug E: (6 pin)
1. Grey on Transformer to Orange Loop 18V Plug.
2. Red from Plug C 10 to Orange Loop 18V Plug and Grey 1 wire above.
3. White on transformer to nothing (probably for a 12V plug).
4. Grey on Transformer to Orange Loop 18V Plug.
5. Orange from Plug C 2 to Orange Loop 18V Plug and Grey 4 wire above.
6. White on transformer to nothing (probably for a 12V plug).

No modifying involved. The provided Adapter Wire from my plug, labeled D took care of that. So it is literally plug and play. I wanted to be able to to measure the outputs of the new transformer as well as document that the wiring and voltages were correct for my game. Which they were. I do not know why they did not use the correct colors of wire to match the original.

My number 2 machine that was started in this post currently has 51 plays on it. I am working on number 3 right now. Number 1 was a rebuild of an original machine and still has the original PF.

Attached is my most current high score.

DSCF3707 (resized).JPG

I sent an old set of my black wooden side rails to Ibis. He made me 2 new sets in Tardis Blue. One for Game #2 and under construction #3. I will follow up when they arrive and installed.

Pinside_forum_7696232_0 (resized).jpg

Pinside_forum_7696232_2 (resized).jpg

Pinside_forum_7696232_3 (resized).jpg

I ordered a new CPR Dr Who Playfield and MPF for my third Dr Who build. I had read numerous posts about how new repro PFs were not perfect from any of the companies. That does not sound right. But it is a tradeoff, quality vs cost. The new PF clear coat was ribbed and not smooth like the one I got after Ron Kruzmans treatment. CPR says on its website that they give them 5 coats of clear. But the difference is like an Earl Scheib paint job vs a Chip Foose paint job.

So, the PF was sent to a professional (HEP) and the clear was sanded smooth. Then multiple coats of clear are being re-applied. That also means, I have to wait for the clear to dry/cure for months before I can begin populating the accumulated parts sitting on the old PF. But there are other parts I can work on in the mean time. I just received an ULF smooth lifter kit for #3 MPF. I am building more boards for the game. A coin door board and a 10 Opto board, as they worked really well in game 2.

PF3M (resized).jpgPF3N (resized).jpg367697387_6947283625295860_2229660694048437265_n (resized).jpg

The ULF smooth lifter kit arrived from Sweden. I polished the main frame brace that gets re-used. The new instructions and improved parts were installed. Note ULFs Logo engraved on the sides and brace bar. Initially installed on old MPF, while waiting for the new CPR MPF that is getting cleared.

369685155_6969567819734107_3746549285386538731_n (resized).jpg

369637340_6969568076400748_4937284912117991715_n (resized).jpg

369651775_6972943452729877_2743238549058127377_n (resized).jpg

369652678_6972943079396581_8342235834327464532_n (resized).jpg

369669917_6972942779396611_4540229386434480555_n (resized).jpg

369679774_6972943719396517_5140712767324764402_n (resized).jpg

So excited to see my new CPR PF and MPF being cleared by HEP! This how you take replacement parts for your new build to a higher level. Now have to wait for it to be shipped. Then the real fun of assembly will begin.

Pinside_forum_7730485_4 (resized).jpg

The CPR Doctor Who PF that HEP sanded, leveled and cleared is now polished to a glass like finish. Let the curing begin. Once it is in my possession, I will apply my plexi dimple template and begin drilling pilot holes. I will use the Kruzman install kit to remove the clear in the T-Nut areas, widen holes that posts bolt through. I still have some wiring challenges ahead. I still need a new cabinet and head. One paycheck at a time.

PF3T (resized).jpg

PF3S (resized).jpg

PF3R (resized).jpg

PF3Q (resized).jpg

I have had the same decision. I have seen one with the Dark Blue powder coat and it looked good. PinballinReno has one in Black trim. It of course adds to the cost and a personal decision. I did the coin door but some of the paint where the door rubs has come off. Needs a touch up. If I decide to powdercoat on #3 that I am building, it will be Tardis Blue. But then how far do you go? Just the rails and lock down bar? The Coin Door and/or the legs? The cabinet head hinge? Please post a picture whatever decision you make.

Many Thanks to HEP for smoothing out and putting an absolutely beautiful Clear and Polish on my new CPR Dr Who Playfield and MPF for my 3rd Dr pinball. Time to get busy and transfer parts that I have been collecting for 9 months. I think I will build the MPF first.

379671067_7071749549515933_8174348608635287461_n (resized).jpg

379858823_7071750429515845_677904097718875317_n (resized).jpg

380761735_7071749102849311_354571045770542263_n (resized).jpg

Prepping the new CPR MPF.
First step is to dremel out the beautiful clear layed down by HEP out of the T-Nut holes. This is so that the T-Nuts will bite into the wood and not crumple trying to get through the clear.
Second step is to get the right orientation of the barbs on the T-Nuts. Especially along the edges.
Third step is to get an 8mm socket to help hammer them into place.
I cleaned out 2 hardware stores stock of 8/32 x 1/4" T-Nuts (Need 14). I already had a large stock of 6/32 T-Nuts (need 4).

382224327_7094541117236776_8238658832246790231_n (resized).jpg

The dremel bit is shaped like a pinecone. It cleans out the corners of the circle at a 30 degree angle. It was part of Kruzmans kit.

383427427_7098240113533543_4945209922764742179_n (resized).jpgMPF built with ULF smooth lifter kit on the new CPR MPF. I have added new wires and connector to the motor.

382233494_7098464880177733_214533362996458442_n (resized).jpg382855605_7098465323511022_2234572638962520243_n (resized).jpg383968528_7098465790177642_807504034061213738_n (resized).jpg383427427_7098240113533543_4945209922764742179_n (resized).jpg

383991347_7098240493533505_5932658685152605683_n (resized).jpg

They are cleaned up original ones from a game that was parted out in Texas. I had the MPF laying on the front (and mushrooms), while soldering the wires onto the motor. It is okay now. Thanks for noticing.