(Topic ID: 313322)

Bally 1992 Doctor Who Restoration/Build

By Tophervette

1 year ago


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There are 159 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 4.
#101 9 months ago

I have been working on the Bally 1992 pinball wiring harness that was removed rapidly via wire cutters from a parted machine in Germany. All new light sockets, new switches and coils were installed. I added a gazillion Molex connectors and pins to get the wires to stretch to right places. Matching the colors of wires to the right lamp, switch or flipper coil was an interesting challenge. Waiting on another shipment of Molex pins and connectors from Wire-Bot. Shown are all the rusty lamps that I replaced. I was going to try and reuse the roll over switches, but most were bad. So replaced them all. I have labeled all the connections so that when I transfer them to the new CPR PF. I will know where they go. I used the old PF that I labeled during last swap with letters of color wires and outlined positions.

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#102 9 months ago

Things that I have learned from this wiring harness experience. The Playfield has 3 separate harnesses. One for coils (flippers, VUK, Pop Bumpers, Trap Door, Slings, MPF poppers AND Flashers). One for roll over switches, targets, pop bumper leaf switches, flipper (EOS) switches, and Sling switches. One for General Illumination (GI), that includes PCB light boards and Lamp sockets.

The Transformer has its own wire Harness, as does the Cabinet (for coin door, speaker, flipper switch boards).

The Back Box has several of its own Harnesses. DMD board harness, Fliptronics board harness, Audio Board to speakers, and Back Box Lamp board harness.

That last grouping is on the list to make.

I also have to terminate all 3 of the Playfield harnesses with Molex connectors. But need to build/populate a Back Box to know how long the wires need to be.

#103 9 months ago

That's some serious work there.

2 weeks later
#104 9 months ago

I was converting a German 220 volt power box over to 120 US voltage box sounded easy. First the plug end had to be changed. Thanks to my neighbor for letting me know what the colors for Hot, Neutral and Ground should be and supplying the 120 v plug end. I changed the Varistor from Euro 220 v green to US 120 v red. Upped the fuse to 8 amps per pinwiki. Added a US 120 volt service receptacle. I also had to change the plug jumper wires that goes to the transformer.

The power box is now ready for install, if I had a cabinet.

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#106 9 months ago

MiniPinHead good catch! I can now remember reading about that, and think I ordered one from Marcos. Now the search begins. First to the paperwork on recently ordered parts. Then to look in the electrical parts box. I know I have another Red Varistor and it should be with that. (Thinking out loud). This is what makes Pinside so great!!!

4 weeks later
#107 8 months ago

Good news. My new pinball transformer just showed up from Homepin in Taiwan. I made sure all my cabinet wires fit all the transformer plugs too. This is for my WPC89 Dr Who Build. I also in the mean time added the Thermistor in the switch box as recommended by MiniPinHead .

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#108 8 months ago

Thought just occurred to me. Oh no, he thinks. I could now plug the switch box in (I know it works). Then with the transformer plugged in, I could measure all the voltages coming out and verify the correct voltages to back box plugs, before hooking them up to the Power Board. Will document everything later (but not if I get a meltdown).

#109 8 months ago

Great News: No meltdown. All voltages are within tolerance. I had to reach out to Justin at Pinball Life to tell me how to measure the voltages though. They are all AC volts. Most of the colors did not match the color of the existing Cabinet harness, so I did cross walk table.
This is the color wire matching and voltages on the Homepin Transformer WPC89. (5610-12835-00).

Plug A: (2 pin)
x2 Violet wires on Transformer and Cabinet Harness. DMD - 107.7 VAC. To J605-3 and J605-5. Fuse F602.

Plug B: (9 pin)
1. Green/Yellow on Transformer to x2 White/Brown on Cabinet Harness. To J115-2 and J115-3.
3. Yellow on Transformer to x2 Brown on Cabinet Harness. To J115-11 and J115-12.
4. Green/Yellow on Transformer to White/Orange on Cabinet Harness. G.I. - 7.4 VAC. To J115-4.
5. Yellow on Transformer to Yellow/White on Cabinet Harness. To J115-1. Ground.
6. Yellow on Transformer to Green on Cabinet Harness. G.I. - 7.4 VAC. To J115-10.
7. Green/Yellow on Transformer to x2 White/Yellow on Cabinet Harness. To J115-5 and J115-6
9. Yellow on Transformer to x2 Orange on Cabinet Harness. To J115-7 and J115-8.

Plug C: (15 pin)
1. Red on Transformer to Red on Cabinet Harness. 5V Reg. - 9.4 VAC. To J101-1. Fuse 113
2. Red on Transformer to Red on Cabinet Harness. 5V Reg. - 9.4 VAC. To J101-2.
3. Brown on Transformer to White/Red on Cabinet Harness. 5V Reg. - 9.4 VAC. To J101-1.
4. Brown on Transformer to White/Red on Cabinet Harness. Flash Lamp - 16.6 VAC. To J102-1 and J102-2.
5. White on Transformer to White on Cabinet Harness. DMD - 85.4 VAC. To J605-1. Fuse 601.
6. Red on Transformer to Gray on Cabinet Harness. Sound - 19.2 VAC. To J501-4 and J501-5. Fuse 502.
7. Black on Transformer to Black/Yellow on Cabinet Harness. Coils - 54.8 VAC. To J102-8 and J102-9. Fuse 112.
8. White on Transformer to White on Cabinet Harness. DMD - 85.4 VAC. To J605-2.
9. Black on Transformer to Gray/White on Cabinet Harness. Sound - 19.2 VAC. To J501-6 and J501-7.
10. Black on Transformer to Black/Yellow on Cabinet Harness. Coils - 54.8 VAC. To J102-5 and J102-6.
11. Green on transformer to White/Green on Cabinet Harness. 9.8 VAC. To J112-4 and J112-5. Fuse 116
12. Orange on Transformer to Gray/Green on Cabinet Harness. Sound - 19.4 VAC. To J501-1 and J501-2. Fuse 501.
13. Green on transformer to White/Green on Cabinet Harness. 9.8 VAC. To J112-1 and J112-3.
14. Blue on transformer to Blue/White on Cabinet Harness. 12V Reg. - 13.4 VAC. To J101-4 and J101-5. Fuse 114.
15. Blue on transformer to Blue/White on Cabinet Harness. 12V Reg. - 13.4 VAC. To J101-6 and J101-7.

Plug D: (12 pin)
1. Black on Transformer to Black on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 1 Black wire from Power Switch Box. (121.5 VAC line voltage).
2. Black on Transformer to Brown/White on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 2 Black Loop wire.
3. Red on Transformer to Brown/White on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 3 Black Loop wire.
5. White on transformer to nothing (probably for a 220V).
6. White on transformer to nothing (probably for a 220V).
7. Gray on transformer to nothing (probably for a 220V).
9. Blue on Transformer to White/Red on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 7 White wire from Power Switch Box. (121.5 VAC line voltage).
10. Blue on Transformer to Red on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 8 Orange Loop wire.
11. Orange on Transformer to Red on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 9 Orange Loop wire.

Plug E: (6 pin)
1. Grey on Transformer to Orange Loop 18V Plug.
2. Red from Plug C 10 to Orange Loop 18V Plug and Grey 1 wire above.
3. White on transformer to nothing (probably for a 12V plug).
4. Grey on Transformer to Orange Loop 18V Plug.
5. Orange from Plug C 2 to Orange Loop 18V Plug and Grey 4 wire above.
6. White on transformer to nothing (probably for a 12V plug).

#110 8 months ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

Great News: No meltdown. All voltages are within tolerance. I had to reach out to Justin at Pinball Life to tell me how to measure the voltages though. They are all AC volts. Most of the colors did not match the color of the existing Cabinet harness, so I did cross walk table.
This is the color wire matching and voltages on the Homepin Transformer WPC89. (5610-12835-00).
Plug A: (2 pin)
x2 Violet wires on Transformer and Cabinet Harness. DMD - 107.7 VAC. To J605-3 and J605-5. Fuse F602.
Plug B: (9 pin)
1. Green/Yellow on Transformer to x2 White/Brown on Cabinet Harness. To J115-2 and J115-3.
3. Yellow on Transformer to x2 Brown on Cabinet Harness. To J115-11 and J115-12.
4. Green/Yellow on Transformer to White/Orange on Cabinet Harness. G.I. - 7.4 VAC. To J115-4.
5. Yellow on Transformer to Yellow/White on Cabinet Harness. To J115-1. Ground.
6. Yellow on Transformer to Green on Cabinet Harness. G.I. - 7.4 VAC. To J115-10.
7. Green/Yellow on Transformer to x2 White/Yellow on Cabinet Harness. To J115-5 and J115-6
9. Yellow on Transformer to x2 Orange on Cabinet Harness. To J115-7 and J115-8.
Plug C: (15 pin)
1. Red on Transformer to Red on Cabinet Harness. 5V Reg. - 9.4 VAC. To J101-1. Fuse 113
2. Red on Transformer to Red on Cabinet Harness. 5V Reg. - 9.4 VAC. To J101-2.
3. Brown on Transformer to White/Red on Cabinet Harness. 5V Reg. - 9.4 VAC. To J101-1.
4. Brown on Transformer to White/Red on Cabinet Harness. Flash Lamp - 16.6 VAC. To J102-1 and J102-2.
5. White on Transformer to White on Cabinet Harness. DMD - 85.4 VAC. To J605-1. Fuse 601.
6. Red on Transformer to Gray on Cabinet Harness. Sound - 19.2 VAC. To J501-4 and J501-5. Fuse 502.
7. Black on Transformer to Black/Yellow on Cabinet Harness. Coils - 54.8 VAC. To J102-8 and J102-9. Fuse 112.
8. White on Transformer to White on Cabinet Harness. DMD - 85.4 VAC. To J605-2.
9. Black on Transformer to Gray/White on Cabinet Harness. Sound - 19.2 VAC. To J501-6 and J501-7.
10. Black on Transformer to Black/Yellow on Cabinet Harness. Coils - 54.8 VAC. To J102-5 and J102-6.
11. Green on transformer to White/Green on Cabinet Harness. 9.8 VAC. To J112-4 and J112-5. Fuse 116
12. Orange on Transformer to Gray/Green on Cabinet Harness. Sound - 19.4 VAC. To J501-1 and J501-2. Fuse 501.
13. Green on transformer to White/Green on Cabinet Harness. 9.8 VAC. To J112-1 and J112-3.
14. Blue on transformer to Blue/White on Cabinet Harness. 12V Reg. - 13.4 VAC. To J101-4 and J101-5. Fuse 114.
15. Blue on transformer to Blue/White on Cabinet Harness. 12V Reg. - 13.4 VAC. To J101-6 and J101-7.
Plug D: (12 pin)
1. Black on Transformer to Black on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 1 Black wire from Power Switch Box. (121.5 VAC line voltage).
2. Black on Transformer to Brown/White on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 2 Black Loop wire.
3. Red on Transformer to Brown/White on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 3 Black Loop wire.
5. White on transformer to nothing (probably for a 220V).
6. White on transformer to nothing (probably for a 220V).
7. Gray on transformer to nothing (probably for a 220V).
9. Blue on Transformer to White/Red on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 7 White wire from Power Switch Box. (121.5 VAC line voltage).
10. Blue on Transformer to Red on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 8 Orange Loop wire.
11. Orange on Transformer to Red on Adapter wire to (9 pin plug) 9 Orange Loop wire.
Plug E: (6 pin)
1. Grey on Transformer to Orange Loop 18V Plug.
2. Red from Plug C 10 to Orange Loop 18V Plug and Grey 1 wire above.
3. White on transformer to nothing (probably for a 12V plug).
4. Grey on Transformer to Orange Loop 18V Plug.
5. Orange from Plug C 2 to Orange Loop 18V Plug and Grey 4 wire above.
6. White on transformer to nothing (probably for a 12V plug).

Thanks for doing this!

Was there any harness modifying or connector re-wiring?

#111 8 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Thanks for doing this!
Was there any harness modifying or connector re-wiring?

No modifying involved. The provided Adapter Wire from my plug, labeled D took care of that. So it is literally plug and play. I wanted to be able to to measure the outputs of the new transformer as well as document that the wiring and voltages were correct for my game. Which they were. I do not know why they did not use the correct colors of wire to match the original.

#112 8 months ago

this must be the dr who that is in the best condition. crazy what you did bro. REALLY fun to follow, thumps up

#113 8 months ago
Quoted from derfske:

this must be the dr who that is in the best condition. crazy what you did bro. REALLY fun to follow, thumps up

Yeah, but how many plays does it have?

#114 8 months ago

Wry nice work.

#115 8 months ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Yeah, but how many plays does it have?

My number 2 machine that was started in this post currently has 51 plays on it. I am working on number 3 right now. Number 1 was a rebuild of an original machine and still has the original PF.

Attached is my most current high score.

DSCF3707 (resized).JPGDSCF3707 (resized).JPG
#116 7 months ago

I sent an old set of my black wooden side rails to Ibis. He made me 2 new sets in Tardis Blue. One for Game #2 and under construction #3. I will follow up when they arrive and installed.

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#117 7 months ago

If you need any various Dr. Who parts, I've got a stash of things I've been meaning to get rid of for years. DMD display panel plastic, display panel lamp board, time expander shroud, playfield Tardis, and maybe some other bits and bobs. Very cool thread and great work!

2 weeks later
#118 7 months ago

I ordered a new CPR Dr Who Playfield and MPF for my third Dr Who build. I had read numerous posts about how new repro PFs were not perfect from any of the companies. That does not sound right. But it is a tradeoff, quality vs cost. The new PF clear coat was ribbed and not smooth like the one I got after Ron Kruzmans treatment. CPR says on its website that they give them 5 coats of clear. But the difference is like an Earl Scheib paint job vs a Chip Foose paint job.

So, the PF was sent to a professional (HEP) and the clear was sanded smooth. Then multiple coats of clear are being re-applied. That also means, I have to wait for the clear to dry/cure for months before I can begin populating the accumulated parts sitting on the old PF. But there are other parts I can work on in the mean time. I just received an ULF smooth lifter kit for #3 MPF. I am building more boards for the game. A coin door board and a 10 Opto board, as they worked really well in game 2.

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#119 7 months ago

The ULF smooth lifter kit arrived from Sweden. I polished the main frame brace that gets re-used. The new instructions and improved parts were installed. Note ULFs Logo engraved on the sides and brace bar. Initially installed on old MPF, while waiting for the new CPR MPF that is getting cleared.

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#120 7 months ago

So excited to see my new CPR PF and MPF being cleared by HEP! This how you take replacement parts for your new build to a higher level. Now have to wait for it to be shipped. Then the real fun of assembly will begin.

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#121 7 months ago

Just put the final touches on my Stargate playfield project.

Its not hard, just time consuming, It took 4 days to paint and cure:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stargate-woes/page/4#post-7732630

1 week later
#122 6 months ago

The CPR Doctor Who PF that HEP sanded, leveled and cleared is now polished to a glass like finish. Let the curing begin. Once it is in my possession, I will apply my plexi dimple template and begin drilling pilot holes. I will use the Kruzman install kit to remove the clear in the T-Nut areas, widen holes that posts bolt through. I still have some wiring challenges ahead. I still need a new cabinet and head. One paycheck at a time.

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#123 6 months ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

The CPR Doctor Who PF that HEP sanded, leveled and cleared is now polished to a glass like finish. Let the curing begin. Once it is in my possession, I will apply my plexi dimple template and begin drilling pilot holes. I will use the Kruzman install kit to remove the clear in the T-Nut areas, widen holes that posts bolt through. I still have some wiring challenges ahead. I still need a new cabinet and head. One paycheck at a time.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Shiney!

#124 6 months ago

Nice.

Great thread.

I am about to Re decal my dr who cabinet and in debate over the trim. Should I go with new stainless or go with a powder coat? If I went with a powder it would either be black or a dark blue/ purple. And suggestions ?

#125 6 months ago
Quoted from sulli10:

Nice.
Great thread.
I am about to Re decal my dr who cabinet and in debate over the trim. Should I go with new stainless or go with a powder coat? If I went with a powder it would either be black or a dark blue/ purple. And suggestions ?

I have had the same decision. I have seen one with the Dark Blue powder coat and it looked good. PinballinReno has one in Black trim. It of course adds to the cost and a personal decision. I did the coin door but some of the paint where the door rubs has come off. Needs a touch up. If I decide to powdercoat on #3 that I am building, it will be Tardis Blue. But then how far do you go? Just the rails and lock down bar? The Coin Door and/or the legs? The cabinet head hinge? Please post a picture whatever decision you make.

#126 6 months ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

I have had the same decision. I have seen one with the Dark Blue powder coat and it looked good. PinballinReno has one in Black trim. It of course adds to the cost and a personal decision. I did the coin door but some of the paint where the door rubs has come off. Needs a touch up. If I decide to powdercoat on #3 that I am building, it will be Tardis Blue. But then how far do you go? Just the rails and lock down bar? The Coin Door and/or the legs? The cabinet head hinge? Please post a picture whatever decision you make.

We used Photoshop to isolate colors on a picture of the game.

We went thru MANY iterations and color combinations.

Of course "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" !

But we arrived at a VERY specific powder coat that had sparkle colors that matched the game.

Pinballgoddess wanted something that looked like a starry sky at midnight, being a space themed game. Space has colorful stars and planets.

You might go with black and a starry metal flake like we did.

If you go black you only have to do the lockdown bar, siderails and legs.

The hinges look best in SEMS acid etch black primer.

We decided that the backbox black "sides, edges and trim", threw off any of the color choices we tried.

Of course you can paint the backbox interior a different color.

But as always, MAKE yourself HAPPY! Life it too short...

I liked this one (rockstar sparkle) but Pinballgoddess said it was too over the top:

rockstar-sparkle (resized).jpgrockstar-sparkle (resized).jpg

1 week later
#127 6 months ago

Many Thanks to HEP for smoothing out and putting an absolutely beautiful Clear and Polish on my new CPR Dr Who Playfield and MPF for my 3rd Dr pinball. Time to get busy and transfer parts that I have been collecting for 9 months. I think I will build the MPF first.

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#128 6 months ago

Prepping the new CPR MPF.
First step is to dremel out the beautiful clear layed down by HEP out of the T-Nut holes. This is so that the T-Nuts will bite into the wood and not crumple trying to get through the clear.
Second step is to get the right orientation of the barbs on the T-Nuts. Especially along the edges.
Third step is to get an 8mm socket to help hammer them into place.
I cleaned out 2 hardware stores stock of 8/32 x 1/4" T-Nuts (Need 14). I already had a large stock of 6/32 T-Nuts (need 4).

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#129 6 months ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

First step is to dremel out the beautiful clear layed down by HEP out of the T-Nut holes. This is so that the T-Nuts will bite into the wood and not crumple trying to get through the clear.

So clean the clear out of the hole AND the counterbore area, where the t nut teeth bite? What bit are you using to do such precise work?

#130 6 months ago

The dremel bit is shaped like a pinecone. It cleans out the corners of the circle at a 30 degree angle. It was part of Kruzmans kit.

#131 6 months ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

The dremel bit is shaped like a pinecone. It cleans out the corners of the circle at a 30 degree angle. It was part of Kruzmans kit.

Thanks! I also purchased that kit, but this is a nice tip for using it. Thank you

#132 6 months ago

383427427_7098240113533543_4945209922764742179_n (resized).jpg383427427_7098240113533543_4945209922764742179_n (resized).jpgMPF built with ULF smooth lifter kit on the new CPR MPF. I have added new wires and connector to the motor.

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#133 6 months ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

[quoted image]MPF built with ULF smooth lifter kit on the new CPR MPF. I have added new wires and connector to the motor.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Where are you getting new mushroom targets from?
Is one stuck down or binding?

#134 6 months ago

They are cleaned up original ones from a game that was parted out in Texas. I had the MPF laying on the front (and mushrooms), while soldering the wires onto the motor. It is okay now. Thanks for noticing.

3 weeks later
#135 5 months ago

Update:
I am cleaning out the holes of extra clear where T-Nuts go. Then installing T-Nuts slowly and carefully.

I have been busy working the Maryland Rennaisance Faire, but it is over now. Plus I am adding Mods to my Premium Godzilla. And that is different.

#136 5 months ago

Prepping new Pinball Playfield on Doctor Who. New blue siderails ( ibis ) on CPR repop PF that was cleared and polished by Chris @ HEP ( High_End_Pins ). Bottom side dimple drilled 5/64 to accept #6 screws. 6 #8-32 Tee Nuts installed on topside. 6 #6-32 Tee Nuts and 19 #8-32 Tee Nuts installed on bottom.

Last picture is an old PF that was staged with new parts to be transferred to the new PF. I love my pindoc1 rotisserie for doing PF swaps. Wish I had 2.

Next step is transferring over the coil mechs.

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#137 5 months ago

Flipper, VUK, Sling, Trap Door Coil Mechs installed on new CPR PF. Wire harness Stantions also installed.

PCB Lamp Boards and 3 Jet Pop Bumpers are next.

395921853_7228946430462910_5156458818612863899_n (resized).jpg395921853_7228946430462910_5156458818612863899_n (resized).jpg397290374_7228946840462869_7097374985706623012_n (resized).jpg397290374_7228946840462869_7097374985706623012_n (resized).jpg397344556_7228947170462836_2618186382737799421_n (resized).jpg397344556_7228947170462836_2618186382737799421_n (resized).jpg
1 week later
#138 4 months ago

You do nice work bud. Looking great

#139 4 months ago

Good news keeps coming in. My Cliffy's ordered many many months ago just showed up and need to get installed. Some are for the front of the MPF, Some are for the out kick holes in the MPF. One is for the main PF in front of the MPF by Doctor 7 light. It gets the worst wear. One is for the drain hole. One is for the out hole into the shooter lane. One curved one is for the Back ramp.

#140 4 months ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

Good news keeps coming in. My Cliffy's ordered many many months ago just showed up and need to get installed. Some are for the front of the MPF, Some are for the out kick holes in the MPF. One is for the main PF in front of the MPF by Doctor 7 light. It gets the worst wear. One is for the drain hole. One is for the out hole into the shooter lane. One curved one is for the Back ramp.

Pics of the install please

Cliffy’s Protectors are a great investment!

1 week later
#141 4 months ago

The full Cliffys installed on MPF. There are 2 looking like carbon fiber around the Lock popper holes. There is a bottom and top metal shield on the front of the MPF, as well as one that mounts in front of them on the main PF. I cut mylar and put it down between the top metal shield and the 2 carbon fiber holes. I installed red and blue bumper posts. A new thicker top plastic was installed after the bulb holders and red plastic dome was installed with bolts instead of rivets. It looks kind of cool with no decal installed that would say Time Expander. I have that decal, but will wait till MPF gets installed on PF.

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#142 4 months ago

With a lot of colored wires from Wire-Bot in 22 AWG in 10 foot lengths, I began wiring up the backbox light panel. First, I wired up the Flashers (pictures 1 and 2). Then I wired up the GI lamps picture 3). Next, I will make it pretty and neat with ty-wraps. Thanks to jamescardona for the bulb holders for the light panel. The last two pictures are from light panels from my Dr WHO's 1 and 2, that I am using as my example to know where the colors of wires are supposed to connect to on the board. I also labeled the ends of the wire on the board, where it connects to power board in the back box. The ends of the wire are coiled up and waiting to be cut, pinned and put into Molex connectors.

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#143 4 months ago

Finished up wiring the bulb sockets.
Measured the lengths that the wires need to be cut to, then cut the wires to correct length, depending on what Molex connector and where it plugs into the Power Board.
Crimped the ends of the wire once they were stripped. Then placed the pins into the Molex connector in the correct spots.
I have provided my paper working copy of the wire colors and where they connect to.

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#144 4 months ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

Finished up wiring the bulb sockets.
Measured the lengths that the wires need to be cut to, then cut the wires to correct length, depending on what Molex connector and where it plugs into the Power Board.
Crimped the ends of the wire once they were stripped. Then placed the pins into the Molex connector in the correct spots.
I have provided my paper working copy of the wire colors and where they connect to.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great resource, looks great!

Love the idea of labeling wire numbers on connectors

#145 4 months ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

With a lot of colored wires from Wire-Bot in 22 AWG in 10 foot lengths, I began wiring up the backbox light panel. First, I wired up the Flashers (pictures 1 and 2). Then I wired up the GI lamps picture 3). Next, I will make it pretty and neat with ty-wraps. Thanks to jamescardona for the bulb holders for the light panel. The last two pictures are from light panels from my Dr WHO's 1 and 2, that I am using as my example to know where the colors of wires are supposed to connect to on the board. I also labeled the ends of the wire on the board, where it connects to power board in the back box. The ends of the wire are coiled up and waiting to be cut, pinned and put into Molex connectors.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Tophervette:

Finished up wiring the bulb sockets.
Measured the lengths that the wires need to be cut to, then cut the wires to correct length, depending on what Molex connector and where it plugs into the Power Board.
Crimped the ends of the wire once they were stripped. Then placed the pins into the Molex connector in the correct spots.
I have provided my paper working copy of the wire colors and where they connect to.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Did you find a source for the IDC sockets?

#146 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Did you find a source for the IDC sockets?

pinballinreno Yes, I did find a source for used IDC sockets finally. I got all he had at Allentown PA Pinfest. Enough to do my new light panel and a few left over for spares. The guy I got most of the other physical parts from in Texas was using the IDC sockets for his Indianna Jones build. I am still missing a few important parts, like Posts that nobody carries. I have another source that is looking in a sea container that supposedly contains the remains of 2 Hurricane flooded Dr WHO's.

2 months later
#147 54 days ago

Pickenheim here is my page on building DR Who.

#148 53 days ago

With the help of Mike M, we turned drawings and measurements into CAD files. Then he printed a preliminary 3D plastic copy of the MPF ball guides. After I test fit them and compare them to originals, the CAD files will be sent off the Send-Cut-Send to make them out of stainless steel. I will be ordering 2 copies of them. Not that they wear out but it is good to have spares.

BallGuides2 (resized).jpegBallGuides2 (resized).jpegMPF Ball Guide2 (resized).jpegMPF Ball Guide2 (resized).jpegBallGuides1 (resized).jpegBallGuides1 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#149 45 days ago

I really need to get back to this Doctor Who #3 project, but I have been slacking the past few months. Between the weather and Covid, I have not been doing well at all. Instead, I have been putting mods on my Godzilla Premium and visiting the many pinball arcades that are popping up all over the DC region, esp. in Brew Pubs. To make matters worse, I took the ramps and other parts off of Dr Who #1 to find out what posts I am missing (having found that they are not stocked by anyone). I still play Dr Who #2 almost daily. I am looking forward to Pinfest Allentown, to hopefully find the missing posts.

#150 43 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

I really need to get back to this Doctor Who #3 project, but I have been slacking the past few months. Between the weather and Covid, I have not been doing well at all. Instead, I have been putting mods on my Godzilla Premium and visiting the many pinball arcades that are popping up all over the DC region, esp. in Brew Pubs. To make matters worse, I took the ramps and other parts off of Dr Who #1 to find out what posts I am missing (having found that they are not stocked by anyone). I still play Dr Who #2 almost daily. I am looking forward to Pinfest Allentown, to hopefully find the missing posts.

Always take it at your own pace. No harm in taking a break and enjoying playing and modding. Sometimes the pressure only comes from yourself

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