(Topic ID: 315978)

Bally 1985 Flipper stops working after a while

By Jeffoto

1 year ago



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  • 6 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Jeffoto
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#1 1 year ago

Okay, I have an odd one with possibly an easy fix? I dunno. My 1985 Bally Cybernaut plays perfectly fine and no adjustments recently made to it when it started having a new issue where the left flippers will just stop working after a while of use, then after about 10-15 seconds of cool down (me pressing the button and getting no response and getting annoyed) and then, like magic it will work again for about 5-6 flips and then stops again, again acting as though something outside of the flipper itself is overheating... any ideas where I might look first? cold solder somewhere? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

#2 1 year ago

Connectors on the solenoid driver board and the flipper relay.

Flippers buttons are J2 on the solenoid driver board. Flipper relay to connector J3. Resolder all to start, possibly replace connector pins in housing and the ones in the board if the plating's gone.

It could also be the left flipper coil with a hairline break that only happens when it heats up, but I'd look at the SDB first.

#3 1 year ago

awesome... that sounds like it makes sense... I'll give it a try!! Also it's more likely not a hairline break in the coil because the left flipper also activates an upper left flipper and they both work fine together/go dead together. Thanks again!!!

#4 1 year ago

On these older SS Bally's, upper flipper is usually activated through the EOS switch on the lower flipper (screenshot of the schematic attached, you can see a switch symbol between lower and upper on the ground side). So, although they look simultaneous, when wired up this way they are actually going in sequence. Upshot is that I wouldn't rule out the possibility of a cold solder joint at the lower flipper coil that's opening once it heats up.

Screen Shot 2022-05-27 at 8.32.10 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2022-05-27 at 8.32.10 AM (resized).png
#5 1 year ago

Ah! Okay, that makes sense as well. Just looking over the driver board... it is original, so I think I'll start there by reflowing solder on those connectors

1 week later
#6 1 year ago

That was exactly the issue! After warming up and removing the old brown bubbling solder and getting freshly flowed solder in both J2 and J3, the game works great again!!!! Thanks so much slochar and briancox!!!!

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