Bally 1978 Dixieland Bingo Questions

(Topic ID: 211894)

Bally 1978 Dixieland Bingo Questions


By TheWiz

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by baldtwit
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#1 4 months ago

I am new to bingo machines, this is my first one. I am familiar with EM pinball and solid state pinball machines. I have a few simple questions. I have the machine setup and am in the process of cleaning it and removing obvious additions (hacks maybe) in the wiring. Since I have never played a bingo or even seen one for that matter my simple questions are:

1. How many balls are needed to be loaded into the machine.
1a. How many balls played is a game.
2. What color should be on the R, D, C buttons and what color should the 25 cent be.
3. How many counters are there supposed to be in the front bottom cabinet. Mine has 4 but a couple looks like they have been added at sometime.
4. When a player "cashes" out, how is the credit unit reset.

I read through the manual and looked at a number of images and looked om forums but have not found or seen answers to my very simple questions.

Pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated.

#4 4 months ago

When the player wins credits or replays and wants to cash in his winnings......there is a on/off switch under the lower cabinet. To remove credits or replays from the game counter in the backglass or what we call cashing in, you must simply just switch off and back on the switch under the front of the cabinet.

By the way, Dixieland is the last six card EM bingo machine Bally ever produced. It's for sure at the top of the list. Enjoy that great popular player.

#5 4 months ago

Thanks to all for the answers. There is a key switch in the left side of the cabinet and I was guessing that might be used for resetting the counter after a payout but I haven't traced it out yet.

All red seemed a little boring so I painted the R green, the D red, the C yellow and the 25 cent black. The black doesn't show up very well so I may change that to a different color.

One of the extra counters was for a bill acceptor that was hacked in, and not hacked in very well I might add. I took it out and will leave it out. Not sure what the other extra one is for yet since I have not looked at the schematic to see what the original ones are for.

Getting all the lamps out is killing me! None of my usual lamp removal tools work very well. They just don't grab the bulb tight enough to pull it out. Is there a tool out there just for these sockets that grip the base so tightly?

I am looking forward to powering it up. Lots more cleaning to do (I found a family of 9 stink bugs living under the wires. Had to chase them down with my needle nosed plyers.) a couple of loose wires dangling around to figure what they are for and then I can power it up and see where we are. At one time mice had built a nest on top of one of the search steppers so cleaning has taken awhile with bleach water and other abatement chemicals, mask, gloves and all. Looking and smelling much better. No wires chewed, just a little chewing on some lacing cord. I need to order some lacing cord to fix some wire bundles. I normally just use tie wraps but want this to look as original as possible. Back 40 years ago lacing cord is all we used for wire bundles. It will be fun remembering how to do it right .

The plastic playfield look to be in great shape and should clean up nice. Missin a couple lamp covers on the playfield but I have access to a Another Dixieland machine for parts so I should be able to get them from that.

Backglass is as perfect as I have ever seen on an EM machine. Do all bingo backglass' hold up that well?

#6 4 months ago

Got the light board all cleaned up and ready for lamps. Most of the bulbs were #47s and I just couldn't get a good grip on them. Using my 3/8s ID, 1/2 OD vinyl tubing I found that I had to push it all way over the bulb and onto the metal base of the bulb, twist and the wiggle it back and forth while pulling out. Once I got that figured out the 250 bulbs came out pretty quickly. All sockets cleaned. Now to wash all the lamps, check them with a meter and install them.

BTWed - This found all the old bulbs where the base was coming loose. For those where the glass pulled out of the base I just hit the vinyl tubing with a hammer to break the glass and dump it in the trash and used needle nose plyers to pull the base out of the socket.

My simple questions have been answered and making this resolved. I am sure I will have more questions once I get it powered up.

#7 4 months ago

the kumback key switch adds credits - one credit per twist. Make sure you lock it properly if you use it.

the meters that bally supported at one time or another:

- total plays - incremented when game was cycled
- total replays / total out - incremented when credit added to replay register
- key meter - incremented when credit added to replay register via kumback key
- coin meter - incremented when the game was cycled with no credits on the regplay register (a coin was used)
- "coin out" - only on the earliest schematics, but undocumented switches and wires on many games - incremented as the credits were knocked off to 000(0) at power-on

the goal of the meters was making cash box accounting easy. Usually the take was split between an operator and location, and you needed to know how many credits the location paid off before dividing the rest up - ideally without counting coins.

the late model bingo glasses rarely have issues with flaking, and on some machines the glass didn't slide out the side, so the ink didn't get scraped off either.

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