(Topic ID: 150214)

Bally 1970 Double-Up Minimalist Restoration

By Pecos

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Pecos
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There are 134 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 8 years ago

History:

On Wednesday evening, the 20th of January, I was doing my usual search for project pins for the Post project pins for sale here - CL, eBay, Pinside and others. When finished, it was time to look at the Tucson Craiglist listings of pinballs. I saw a project 1970 Bally EM for sale for only $70. Without even looking it up on IPDB and sight unseen I called and told the owner that I would love to buy his Bally Double-Up pinball machine and I offered him $100. He told me that he would love to sell it to me. I was the first to call - lucky me! The seller was only four miles away from me!

The original ad:

CL_ad2_(resized).jpgCL_ad2_(resized).jpg

I then looked up Double-Up on IPDB and discovered that only 55 of these games were ever produced. I'm not the kind of collector who searches out rare games, I can't afford them, but now that one had fallen into my lap I knew that I had to treat it differently than other typical production pins.

I picked up the cabinet and backbox Thursday afternoon and my friend Dave helped me get it into the house. It was a lot lighter than the Black Knight we had moved! I then made a separate trip to pick up the backglass.

Backstory - A short Tucson Tragedy: Actors, Seller 1, Seller 2 - the person who sold the game to me.

Seller 2 was over at Seller 1's house when he saw a pinball machine on the back porch. He told Seller 1 that it shouldn't be kept on the back porch and Seller 1 asked him if he wanted it. This part is unclear but the machine did end up in Seller 2's hands. He got a trailer to bring the Double-Up home. He tied the machine down tightly with one rope going from the back to front of the machine and several others across the cabinet. He was only a few blocks from home when the backbox broke loose, fell forward and broke the backglass. He was sick about it. He was even sicker when he tried to find a replacement. It was a freakish accident. Seller 2 could have taken the backbox off, but he didn't even know that could be done. I put blame on no one.

Seller 2 was rescuing the Double Up from a premature death. He is also a wonderful guy. He had bought the machine because he was a motorcycle guy and Double Up is a motorcycle theme. I felt really bad for him and what had happened. He still wants a pinball so I promised to help him find another from the early 70s and get it working and cleaned for him.

So the machine was moved from the trailer to Seller 2's garage where it sat until he decided to sell it. Apparently, he was so soured by the experience that he just wanted the machine gone.

And so, I found myself back at Seller's 2 house to pick up the cracked backglass. It was only cracked in three places, but one of the large broken pieces was beginning to come loose. I brought a piece of plywood with a blanket on top. Seller 2 was smart enough to put the plywood upright next to the backglass and then slowly drop the backglass down to the floor. I picked up the plywood, blanket and backglass an put in my my pickup bed. I made sure that the backglass was moved to the front of the bed of the truck and that the blanket was folded under the plywood so the wind wouldn't catch it during transport.

Now, the good stuff:

Here are some pics of the Double-Up being brought home in my pickup truck.

double_up_day1_backglass_front_(resized).jpgdouble_up_day1_backglass_front_(resized).jpg

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double_up_day1_cabinet_left_front_(resized).jpgdouble_up_day1_cabinet_left_front_(resized).jpg

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Being such a low production pinball, I know that collectors would want this to remain in original condition as possible.

Plan of attack for the restoration:

1. Remove enough of the playfield parts to be able to clean the full playfield. Remove non-original posts.
2. Put the backbox, less the backglass of course, on temporarily to test for mechanical issues. Note problems.
3. Clean the playfield.
4. Consider very carefully if Magic Eraser should be used if needed to remove pinball dust in the playfield crazing.
5. Add several coats of wax.
6. Replace all lamps, add new rubber rings.
7. Remove mech board and mechs.
8. Remove playfield.
9. Sand mech board. Clean and adjust mechs and clean solenoids. Replace coil sleeves.
10. Put mech board back in.
11. Clean coin door, inside and out, install new leg levelers and clean legs.
12. Do cabinet work on backbox and reinstall.
13. Clean and fix mechs in the backbox and adjust switches.
14. Fix backglass and reinstall.
15. Put playfield back in, put playfield parts back on and finish restoration. Add a new pinball.
16. Finish anything missed, test and final fixes.

At some point in the future I will buy a new back door.

This is not set in stone so I might do some steps out of order. And there are probably some obvious steps that I've missed that will need to be added.

I decided to share my Double-Up restoration with you. Any and all advice appreciated how to restore a collectible pinball.

#2 8 years ago

I am glad that somebody picked up this rare and super cool game. I can't wait to see your progress with this project. Good luck!

#3 8 years ago

Thanks reppie! I'm looking forward to restoring it and sharing with all. Feel free to chime in if you have some good advice for me or I am about to do something really stupid!

#4 8 years ago

What was this? I tried to remove the lockdown bar and after a bit of confusion realized that the entire playfield glass and metal frame came off in one piece! I had never seen or even heard of this before. What a surprise and what a cool design!

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Some pics of the playfield before removing plastics:

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Do you see the cracked parts?

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Do you see the cracked inlane ball guide?

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#5 8 years ago

Right side close-ups before playfield plastics removed:

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close_up_right_apron_(resized).jpgclose_up_right_apron_(resized).jpg

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#6 8 years ago

Left side close-ups before playfield plastics removed:

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#7 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

1. Remove enough of the playfield parts to be able to clean the full playfield. Remove non-original posts.

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#8 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

2. Put the backbox, less the backglass of course, on temporarily to test for mechanical issues. Note problems.

#9 8 years ago

Good restoration scheme. For the backglass, you might want to consider making a copy. I did this for my Doozie. Original has faded, yellows in particular. I might keep the repro, or refit the original when I've restored it.

I took a high-res photo, then in photoshop adjusted colouring, and painted in new yellow areas, and 'repaired' damage. (My Photoshop skills are limited.) Made the image exactly the size required, then had a cheap colour printout made on thin paper, fixed it to the back of a sheet of glass. I devised a method to do this so that the picture doesn't sag but stays pressed to the glass. Just finishing making an opaque mask for the back. So far it looks good, for a cheap repro. I'll be posting full details on Pinside in a few weeks when I get back to finishing it.

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#10 8 years ago

Cool video. Thanks for sharing. Not bad for a game was outside! Playfield looks to be in good shape. I believe she will clean up very nice. How are you going to fix the backglass?

#11 8 years ago
Quoted from oldtowner:

For the backglass, you might want to consider making a copy.

Thanks for the suggestion oldtowner. I'll be looking for your post how this is done and some pics of how it turned out. I don't have Photoshop and I'm not sure my image editing software is up to the task, but anything is fair game at this point.

#12 8 years ago
Quoted from reppie:

How are you going to fix the backglass?

Well, that's the $64,000 question - isn't it? My first thoughts were to use clear tape just to keep it in one piece until I could find a permanent solution. I wasn't seriously considering it though, just the first thing that came to mind!

At this point, I am considering putting a sheet of mylar on the back. This will solve two problems. First, any flaking will be stopped dead in its tracks. Secondly, and more importantly, the broken pieces will be locked in place hopefully well enough so the backglass can be put back into the backbox. I might have to add a second piece of mylar to the front if the broken pieces want to move around. But I'm hoping to avoid that option because the player will be looking at mylar and not glass. The backglass is in decent shape, all things consided, and I want to keep this as original as possible. So, my best options will be to try to repair the existing backglass.

#13 8 years ago

Maybe some drops of thin CA through the cracks (from the back), to stop the pieces moving around? (Note: I've never tried this!)

#14 8 years ago

Take the glass to a print shop that does blueprints. They will have a high res copier that is large enough to scan it. Send the scan off to BG resto & have them do a glass for you. That way they will have these available to others that need this rare piece.

#15 8 years ago
Quoted from oldtowner:

Maybe some drops of thin CA through the cracks (from the back), to stop the pieces moving around?

I've never had much luck trying to mend broken ceramics and glass with super glue. (I thought CA might be super glue but had to look it up to be sure!) It was always too thin when I tried to mate the pieces back together. Your method might work though. I haven't tried it and don't want to experiment on this backglass! Maybe someone can share their experiences with us?

I'm still considering the mylar method but concerned that the GI lamps on the backbox might yellow or even melt the mylar.

I might try some experimenting with your method and the mylar method with a broken 10 gallon aquarium I have lying around. I want to put a piece of mylar in front of some 44/47 incandescent lamps to see what the heat does to them. I definitely would go with to cooler 47s if the mylar method turns out to be my number one choice.

The backglass fix is near the bottom of the restoration list so, fortunately, it's not something I have to worry about too much now.

#16 8 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Take the glass to a print shop that does blueprints. They will have a high res copier that is large enough to scan it. Send the scan off to BG resto & have them do a glass for you. That way they will have these available to others that need this rare piece.

I don't have the money to do that and I want to keep the original backglass, even though it is cracked. If someone actually needed a scan of this backglass to make another for their Double-Up, I would try to find a way to help them out.

Thanks for the suggestion, dasvis. I've already heard BG Resto mentioned. If I come into some money I will probably choose this option. It can't hurt to have another backglass without cracks for everyday use! It's really hard for me to spend $300 on a backglass when I can get an entire project pin for that price.

#17 8 years ago

Well, I would take it & get it scanned anyway. The scan itself would be cheap & that way you would have a way to get another glass if something happened to your cracked original.

#18 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

3. Clean the playfield.

I got out the naphtha and "Color Back" by Turtle Wax to clean the playfield. I decided to use the naphtha first to clean off the top layer of crud and then the "Color Back" to finish the first cleaning. I have used the "Color Back" before on the Williams Expo restoration and it did a good job of cleaning without harming the playfield.

Caution! Before using Color Back or any other cleaning product test it on the playfield in an inconspicuous spot under the apron. You shouldn't have any problem using Color Back on the playfield if the original lacquer finish is intact but test to be safe not sorry. Color Back contains petroleum distillates. If you have a lot of planking on the playfield use with extreme caution. Color Back also contains silicones so do not use if you plan to clear coat the playfield.

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1st_cleaning_middle_(resized).jpg1st_cleaning_middle_(resized).jpg

1st_cleaning_top_(resized).jpg1st_cleaning_top_(resized).jpg

Looking good so far but the playfield crazing wasn't cleaned up at all.

Quoted from Pecos:

4. Consider very carefully if Magic Eraser should be used if needed to remove pinball dust in the playfield crazing.

And now I'm stuck trying to determine how much wear to inflict on this playfield without ruining it. I'm leaning toward using the melamine, very carefully, to remove the crazing and make the colors "POP!" I used melamine on the Expo restoration and it made a huge difference. Here are some pictures so you will understand what playfield crazing looks like:

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I'm hoping to avoid any type of clearcoat after using the melamine and use only several layers of wax to protect the artwork.

#19 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

4. Consider very carefully if Magic Eraser should be used if needed to remove pinball dust in the playfield crazing.
5. Add several coats of wax.

I call it crazing, some call it 'patina.' Whatever you call it, the aged look will stay. It cries against all of my restoration sensibilities because the colors could be brighter, but I believe this to be more true to what a collector would want. Unlike my Expo pinball machine, this playfield has no ball swirlies so the playfield is much brighter. This made my decision to not use melamine foam on this playfield easier.

I finished a thorough 2nd cleaning and added the first coat of Carnauba wax:

2nd_cleaning_1st_wax_bottom_(resized).jpg2nd_cleaning_1st_wax_bottom_(resized).jpg

2nd_cleaning_1st_wax_middle_(resized).jpg2nd_cleaning_1st_wax_middle_(resized).jpg

2nd_cleaning_1st_wax_top_(resized).jpg2nd_cleaning_1st_wax_top_(resized).jpg

Still to be done - fill post holes and light touch-up of those holes. Add more coats of wax.

#20 8 years ago

Awesome job!

-1
#21 8 years ago

If it was mine, it would be a complete restoration with CC playfield and BG Resto backglass. I think I have a little OCD. I want to play the games I have but I can't stand the thought of more paint wearing off because of my play.

#22 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

6. Replace all lamps, add new rubber rings.

I will be skipping step 6 until I can order and receive new rubber rings.

Quoted from Pecos:

7. Remove mech board and mechs.

Mech board and mechs in cabinet.
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Mech board and mechs removed.
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Quoted from Pecos:

8. Remove playfield.

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#23 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

7. Remove mech board and mechs.

Here are some before and after pics of the cabinet after the mech board was removed. I found a couple of goodies in the clean-up.

This cabinet was pretty clean inside:

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cab_middle_dirty_(resized).jpgcab_middle_dirty_(resized).jpg

cab_rear_dirty_(resized).jpgcab_rear_dirty_(resized).jpg

After a thorough cleaning with vacuum and dry paint brush to dig out the dirt:

cabinet_front_clean_(resized).jpgcabinet_front_clean_(resized).jpg

This is a picture of the Naphtha and Color Back that I used on the playfield. The bag contains parts removed from the playfield and found in the cabinet. I also found a contact burnishing tool. Someone worked on this game who knew what he was doing. That tool will come in handy in a couple of days when I burnish all switch contacts. The piece of paper on the bottom left is a list of patent numbers that belongs inside the backbox. The small piece of painted wood on the lower right is from the front cabinet.

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Check out this ad from the mid 70s found inside the cabinet! A blast from the past! Do you know what it is?

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#24 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

I decided to share my Double-Up restoration with you.

YES!!! I'm so happy all my incessant badgering paid off! Ha-ha! I'm really excited to follow along on this journey. Thanks for taking us with you on this adventure, Pecos. ...and with such a rare machine, too. How cool.

Quoted from Pecos:

I'm not sure my image editing software is up to the task

I know a guy. PM en route.

Also...

Quoted from oldtowner:

So far it looks good, for a cheap repro. I'll be posting full details on Pinside in a few weeks when I get back to finishing it.

Howdy, Oldtowner! I'd be interested in reading through your thread documenting your process. Needless to say I'll be following this thread closely, but if you don't post here to let us know about your thread, could I trouble you for a PM letting me know it's live?

Quoted from dasvis:

Send the scan off to BG resto & have them do a glass for you.

Quoted from Pecos:

I've already heard BG Resto mentioned.

Quoted from Pecos:

It's really hard for me to spend $300 on a backglass when I can get an entire project pin for that price.

As a fellow el cheap-o, I can sympathize. ...but if any game warrants "the treatment," I think you found it, P! ...but as you said...

Quoted from Pecos:

The backglass fix is near the bottom of the restoration list so, fortunately, it's not something I have to worry about too much now.

Always nice to have time to think about (come to terms with) something.

Quoted from Pecos:

"Color Back" by Turtle Wax

Huh! Never heard of such a thing! ...for any other newbies:

colorBack_(resized).jpgcolorBack_(resized).jpg

Edit: Woop...just saw your version inside the Double Up cab:

colorBackB_(resized).jpgcolorBackB_(resized).jpg

Regardless, I've heard that if a product has water in the ingredients, then you probably don't want to use it. (Likely to raise the wood grain.) You might want to take a quick gander at the back label.

Quoted from Pecos:

I'm leaning toward using the melamine, very carefully, to remove the crazing and make the colors "POP!"

I would lean this way, too. As I'm sure you recall, it worked wonders as the final cleaning step on ole' Swingy:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-swinger-restoration-and-eventual-retheme/page/3#post-2626388

I know M.E. is sort of a naughty word, but as a FINAL, GENTLE, MINORLY abrasive step, I feel confident you're approaching this project with an appropriate level of respect that this would be an appropriate measure to take.

Quoted from Pecos:

This made my decision to not use melamine foam on this playfield easier.

Oh...oops. Or you could not use M.E. Ha-ha! ...guess I should have kept reading.

Quoted from Pecos:

I finished a thorough 2nd cleaning and added the first coat of Carnauba wax:

This is looking really great, BTW!

Quoted from Pecos:

Still to be done - fill post holes and light touch-up of those holes.

Curious...do you plan on repainting those areas where the "aftermarket" star posts discolored the playfield? I'm guessing not as you've already waxed...but...I think it'd be nice to see a more solid area of color there. SORRY!

Quoted from Pecos:

Check out this ad from the mid 70s found inside the cabinet! A blast from the past! Do you know what it is?

Ha-ha! A slide rule? It's essentially an early analog calculator, right?

slideRule_(resized).jpgslideRule_(resized).jpg

Finally, Pecos, thanks for the heavy upload of photos. You know I appreciate that. I'll do my best to help where I can. You've helped me plenty over the past 8 months. Really looking forward to following along.

Sincerely,
Ryan Claytor

#25 8 years ago

Hi Ryan,

Re: cheapo paper backglass copy: I'll be posting a Doozie thread in a few weeks - and I'll let you know with a pm. Currently busy with my Flipper Parade, which is coming along nicely.

#26 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

9. Sand mech board. Clean and adjust mechs and clean solenoids. Replace coil sleeves.

Step 9 is a bear. It was time to get into the meat of the project. First, all of the mechs had to be removed from the mech board:

mechs_in_cab_front_(resized).jpgmechs_in_cab_front_(resized).jpg

mechs_in_cab_middle_(resized).jpgmechs_in_cab_middle_(resized).jpg

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All of the screws were removed and the relays, transformer and wiring harness were all moved off of the board, rather, I should say boards. The relays sit on two boards above the main board.

mechs_removed_(resized).jpgmechs_removed_(resized).jpg

I taped the screws to the components they belonged to:

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The mechs were carefully vacuumed with the brush attachment with special attention to the wiring harness.

All of the relays were cleaned with Q-Tips and alcohol. Color Back was used when there was some rusting or the other gunk that couldn't be removed with the alcohol.

The mech boards would not require sanding. Unlike Williams, Bally painted their boards.

mechs_board_top_dirty_(resized).jpgmechs_board_top_dirty_(resized).jpg

I cleaned the boards with Naphtha:

mechs_board_1st_cleaning_(resized).jpgmechs_board_1st_cleaning_(resized).jpg

Then I cleaned the boards with Color Back and added a coat of wax:

Use Color Back with extreme caution on painted surfaces. Color Back works by removing oxidized paint. If you are not careful, you will remove so much paint that the underlying wood will be exposed.

mechs_board_after_color_back_and_wax_(resized).jpgmechs_board_after_color_back_and_wax_(resized).jpg

I decided to tackle the score motor next. I disassembled as much as I could and marked the 11 o'clock position on the cam with a piece of tape so I could put the it back in at the same position. I'm not sure this is necessary but better safe than sorry. I gave the whole assembly, including the cam a good cleaning.

Unlike the Williams score motor I cleaned on Expo, the gears are sealed. I added Superlube to the only parts of the gears that were accessible, the axles. I forced the Superlube in as best as I could by turning the gears. Superlube was also added to all the axles where they made contact with metal. I also adding a thin coat of Superlube to the edges of the cam wheels that make contact with the switch stacks.

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mechs_gear_box_(resized).jpgmechs_gear_box_(resized).jpg

mechs_score_motor_cam_(resized).jpgmechs_score_motor_cam_(resized).jpg

Now it was time to clean screws. I don't have a tumbler so I use the old fashioned method to shine up the screw heads - a little rubbing compound with Windex, a cleaning step and finally some wax:

mechs_cleaning_screw_head_(resized).jpgmechs_cleaning_screw_head_(resized).jpg

Finally, for now, the mechs were put back in place on the board awaiting to be screwed back into place.

mechs_in_place_waiting_screws_(resized).jpgmechs_in_place_waiting_screws_(resized).jpg

Alas, more work awaits before I can move on to the next step.

#27 8 years ago
Quoted from RyanClaytor:

YES!!! I'm so happy all my incessant badgering paid off!

I would be doing the pinball community a disservice if I didn't document this restoration. No badgering required!

Thanks for the offer to help imaging the backglass. I can see that a new repro backglass would be the choice for some of you. It's just not in the budget. Fortunately, a repro can be done anytime in the future.

Quoted from RyanClaytor:

Regardless, I've heard that if a product has water in the ingredients, then you probably don't want to use it. (Likely to raise the wood grain.)

Thanks for the heads up. I've used 91% alcohol on playfields before with no issues and that has water in it too. The Double-Up playfield only had a little bit of planking near the flippers, where water can raise the wood grain. As far as I can tell, no wood grain was raised in the restoration of the playfield, but anyone wanting to use Color Back should be aware of this potential issue.

Quoted from RyanClaytor:

Oh...oops. Or you could not use M.E. Ha-ha! ...guess I should have kept reading.

I am sure that I've made the right choice. I put a lot of thought into this decision. I can always go back and Magic Erase the playfield, but it looks really nice the way it is and the small gain isn't worth the additional risk.

Quoted from RyanClaytor:

Curious...do you plan on repainting those areas where the "aftermarket" star posts discolored the playfield? I'm guessing not as you've already waxed...but...I think it'd be nice to see a more solid area of color there. SORRY!

Yes, absolutely, I plan to touch up those areas. They don't belong there.

Quoted from RyanClaytor:

Ha-ha! A slide rule?

Nope! The key part of that ad is TI-55.

I don't claim to be a master of restoration. I am just documenting my work the way I have learned to do it. So, caveat emptor - take some and leave some.

Glad to have you along for the ride Ryan!

#28 8 years ago

THIS!!!

Quoted from Pecos:

I taped the screws to the components they belonged to:

...is brilliant. Thanks for the reminder.

Also...

Quoted from Pecos:

The mech boards would not require sanding. Unlike Williams, Bally painted their boards.

...SO PRETTY! I like the painted bottom board.

Quoted from Pecos:

the mechs were put back in place on the board awaiting to be screwed back into place.

Honest question here: Why are there relays elevated off the bottom board? I've never seen elevated sections like that before:

elevatedBottomBoard_(resized).jpgelevatedBottomBoard_(resized).jpg

Quoted from Pecos:

Yes, absolutely, I plan to touch up those areas. They don't belong there.

Quoted from Pecos:

Nope! The key part of that ad is TI-55.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TI-55

Finally, more thanks for the copius pictures. I know first-hand that it's not a speedy process to take, upload, and explain. This is a great thread.

Keep it up, Pecos!
Ryan

#29 8 years ago
Quoted from RyanClaytor:

Why are there relays elevated off the bottom board?

I'm still trying to figure out why someone would put four red posts in the middle of the playfield!

I don't see the point in putting the relays on the raised boards. It almost certainly costs more to produce. Maybe it was easier to run the wiring harness under the solder connections rather than next to them? I think it is a cleaner look.

Quoted from RyanClaytor:

I've never seen elevated sections like that before:

Neither have I but I like it!

Those aren't the only relays raised above the main board. The Game Over interlock relay sits on a metal piece that runs diagonally under the relay.

game_over_interlock_relay_(resized).jpggame_over_interlock_relay_(resized).jpg

Also, the wiring harness nylon tie-downs aren't screwed directly to the mech board but raised with some funky looking heavy metal pylons:

wiring_harness_tie_downs_(resized).jpgwiring_harness_tie_downs_(resized).jpg

#30 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

What was this? I tried to remove the lockdown bar and after a bit of confusion realized that the entire playfield glass and metal frame came off in one piece! I had never seen or even heard of this before. What a surprise and what a cool design!

All of the Bally EM games from this year, and slightly before and after, had the one-piece armor / lock down bar with integrated PF glass. I had a Bally Hi Lo Ace and Big Show before, and they both had that set up. It was a great idea and permitted me to work on the game without needing all the extra room to slide the PF glass out. I will say changing the PF glass is a bit of a pain in the ass, as the channels on my Hi Lo were dry-rotted and even the rubber kept crinkling. I ended up just getting new parts all the way around. Not quite sure why Bally phased this design out and didn't use it on other games...perhaps that is why.

When you replace it, make sure you get the right glass. This design uses a slightly smaller PF glass. Standard is 21" x 43", and PF glass for this and other similar Bally EM's is actually 21" x 41.5" I believe. Double check on Marco's website though...they have the smaller glass. I bought the glass for my Hi Lo from there.

#31 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

9. Sand mech board. Clean and adjust mechs and clean solenoids. Replace coil sleeves.

This video show the basic operation of the two stepper units on the mech board, their names and how they work before disassembly and cleaning.

#32 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

9. Sand mech board. Clean and adjust mechs and clean solenoids. Replace coil sleeves.

Number 9, number 9, number 9, number 9. Will I ever get done with step number 9?

Stepper Unit disassembly:

Take copious pics of the stepper unit before disassembly! Reset stepper unit to home position first. Pay special attention to the spider assembly position and the position of the switches on the solenoid side. You might even consider taking a video of the stepper unit in action.

Step 1: Remove center screw and washer:

stepper_remove_center_screw_(resized).jpgstepper_remove_center_screw_(resized).jpg

Step 2. Remove spider assembly. It should pull straight up off of the shaft.

stepper_remove_spider_(resized).jpgstepper_remove_spider_(resized).jpg

Step 3. Remove PCB. It too should pull straight up off of the shaft.

stepper_spider_pcb_removed_(resized).jpgstepper_spider_pcb_removed_(resized).jpg

Step 4. Move to the solenoid side. Carefully remove the tension spring by lifting upwards off shaft. It will want to turn clockwise quickly so hold it in place until you can gently release the tension.

Step 5. Remove the two springs above the tension spring.

stepper_remove_tension_spring_(resized).jpgstepper_remove_tension_spring_(resized).jpg

Step 6: Pay particular attention to how these pieces are assembled together! Remove the two long screws holding the switches in place. Remove the other two long screws holding the metal stop in place. Remember, you will have to put them back together in the right order! Note that some of the switches attach to the right of the metal piece holding the switches and some attach to the left of the metal piece. Also, the metal stop piece is attached to the left of the metal piece, as I found out the hard way.

stepper_remove_switches_and_stop_(resized).jpgstepper_remove_switches_and_stop_(resized).jpg

stepper_remove_screws_(resized).jpgstepper_remove_screws_(resized).jpg

If there is a way to put something together incorrectly I will find it!

Step 7: Remove the nylon gear assembly. It should pull straight out on the solenoid side.

stepper_remove_gear_assembly_(resized).jpgstepper_remove_gear_assembly_(resized).jpg

Step 8: Remove the two plunger stop screws for the solenoid in the upper right. I had a heck of a time getting these off! I eventually had to lay the stepper unit flat on the mech board in order to get enough down force on the screw to get it out. In the process I scraped some of the paint off the mech board. Yikes! I will touch-up that area. Learn from my mistake and lay the stepper unit flat on the mech board before attempting to remove the plunger stop screws. Pull off the plunger stop and slide off the smaller solenoid in the upper right corner.

stepper_remove_four_plunger_stop_screws_(resized).jpgstepper_remove_four_plunger_stop_screws_(resized).jpg

stepper_slide_off_plunger_stop_and_solenoid_(resized).jpgstepper_slide_off_plunger_stop_and_solenoid_(resized).jpg

Step 9: Lift the plunger off the shaft holding it in place.

Step 10: Remove the hair pin retaining clip holding the right pivot arm in place. Lift the right pivot arm off the shaft.

stepper_remove_pivot_arms_(resized).jpgstepper_remove_pivot_arms_(resized).jpg

Step 11: Remove the two plunger stop screws for the solenoid in the lower left. Pull off the plunger stop and slide off the larger solenoid in the lower left corner.

stepper_remove_four_plunger_stop_screws_(resized).jpgstepper_remove_four_plunger_stop_screws_(resized).jpg

stepper_remove_larger_solenoid_(resized).jpgstepper_remove_larger_solenoid_(resized).jpg

Step 12: Lift the plunger off the shaft holding it in place.

Step 13: Remove the hair pin retaining clip holding the left pivot arm in place. Left the left pivot arm off the shaft.

Step 14: Clean solenoid sleeves or replace with new nylon sleeves. I want this machine to remain as original as possible so I will clean the sleeves and leave them in place.

stepper_clean_solenoid_sleeves_(resized).jpgstepper_clean_solenoid_sleeves_(resized).jpg

Step 15: The solenoid side should now be free of all components.

stepper_solenoid_side_bare_(resized).jpgstepper_solenoid_side_bare_(resized).jpg

Step 16: Now it is time to clean, clean clean! I clean the pivot arms and nylon gear with some dish washing soap, Bon Ami and water paste using a toothbrush to scrub the old grease off. Clean the bushing where the nylon gear axle fits through the stepper frame.

Step 17: Gently sand the contacts on the PCB with 400 grit or finer sandpaper.

Step 18: Lightly Superlube the gears, pivot arm pivot points and PCB contacts. Do NOT lube the plungers, ever!

Step 19: Reassemble in reverse order.

Some points of caution: The switches must be put back on the same way they came off and between the two posts on the nylon gear. The right pivot arm end must be under the left pivot arm to work properly. The smaller plunger goes with the smaller solenoid in the upper right and the larger plunger goes with the larger solenoid in the lower left. Guess how I figured that one out?

stepper_right_pivot_arm_in_place_(resized).jpgstepper_right_pivot_arm_in_place_(resized).jpg

Edit: I had one piece left over that fell off during diassembly. It is a spring washer. I am hoping to find where it goes when disassembling one of the other stepper units. Nobody is perfect least of all me! Look for this piece when disassembling your stepper unit! Does anyone know where this part goes?

Edit: polyacanthus has the answer. The spring washer goes on the plunger side over the coil sleeve and next to coil (solenoid).

spring_washer_(resized).jpgspring_washer_(resized).jpg

#33 8 years ago

1. Send the BG to BGResto.com They will make a new one from you old broken one.

2. Remove those Gottlieb Flippers and replace with genuine Bally flipper shoe/shaft/bats.

#34 8 years ago
Quoted from MrBally:

2. Remove those Gottlieb Flippers and replace with genuine Bally flipper shoe/shaft/bats.

Really. I never would have known. I checked the bottom of the playfield and the flipper coils are Bally. Thanks for the heads-up MrBally!

#35 8 years ago

Pecos, I only lube metal-on-metal contact.

Many of the problems with steppers that I run into (sluggish, locked in place) are due to operators previously lubing the nylon core in the stepper. Will not move fast enough to generate enough friction to melt without lube. I leave it clean and un-lubed.

The spring washer sits on the solenoid, on the bottom of the coil, by the stop. Ensure that both spring washers are installed properly.

Bally really put some thought into their wiring. I love working on Bally EMs for this reason (and others). The raised boards allow for vibration absorption and the pylons do the same. Is it necessary? No. But it's sure nice! Especially as Bally started really packing the cabs with relays. They are closer to you, as the technician for inspection and adjustment, and dirt and junk from the score motor will not travel to the raised beds. Neat stuff.

#36 8 years ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

Many of the problems with steppers that I run into (sluggish, locked in place) are due to operators previously lubing the nylon core in the stepper.

Thanks for the info. I'll follow your advice on the NEXT stepper unit. It's finally working perfectly. I'm losing count how many times I have put this first stepper together but I think I've finally got it.

Quoted from bingopodcast:

The spring washer sits on the solenoid, on the bottom of the coil, by the stop. Ensure that both spring washers are installed properly.

Ahh! That is a big help! No wonder I was at a loss where it went. I only have one spring washer so I am guessing that it goes on the large solenoid.

Quoted from bingopodcast:

The raised boards allow for vibration absorption and the pylons do the same. Is it necessary? No. But it's sure nice!

I agree. It's nice to have. This is my first Bally EM and I didn't realize there would be so many differences in the design from Williams but I am appreciating the Bally more and more as I get into it.

Thanks for clearing up those items bingopodcast. Much appreciated!

#37 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

9. Sand mech board. Clean and adjust mechs and clean solenoids. Replace coil sleeves.

Cleaning and adjusting ALL switches on the mech board looks daunting, but it is one of the simplest tasks to do. And you gain so much by cleaning and adjusting the switches when the mech board is out and the relays and score motor are easily accessible. I cleaned all of the contacts on the switches twice. The swithes on the score motor had the dirtiest switches and I cleaned them three times. They require the closest attention when cleaning and adjusting. Misadjusted switches on the score motor can be hard to diagnose later.

I only found one switch needing adjustment on the relays and two switches needing adjustment on the score motor switch stack.

Many score motor assemblies on EM pinball machines tilt up for easier access. Simply remove the two screw on the non-hinged side and lift up. I find this angle easiest for me to work on the switches.

clean_switches_score_motor_(resized).jpgclean_switches_score_motor_(resized).jpg

When cleaning the contact points on switches I usually pinch the switch leafs together when burnishing. This is not possible when cleaning switch stacks. I use a switch adjustment tool to close the switch before burnishing. You should feel some resistance when moving the contact burnisher back and forth for maximum cleaning.

clean_switches_switch_stack_(resized).jpgclean_switches_switch_stack_(resized).jpg

Learn how 'Make', 'Break' and 'Make/Break' switches work and you will have learned 80% of what it takes to fix and maintain an EM pinball machine!

clean_switches_break_(resized).jpgclean_switches_break_(resized).jpg

clean_switches_break_engaged_(resized).jpgclean_switches_break_engaged_(resized).jpg

clean_switches_make_mb_(resized).jpgclean_switches_make_mb_(resized).jpg

clean_switches_make_mb_engaged_(resized).jpgclean_switches_make_mb_engaged_(resized).jpg

clean_switches_improperly_adjusted_make_(resized).jpgclean_switches_improperly_adjusted_make_(resized).jpg

clean_switches_improperly_adjusted_make_energized_(resized).jpgclean_switches_improperly_adjusted_make_energized_(resized).jpg

Some of the oxidation removed after one pass cleaning the contacts. I use a white paper towel with some Windex to clean my contact burnishing tool and I clean it often - after burnishing 4-5 contacts. This usually works out to all of the switches on one relay so I clean the burnishing tool after each relay.

clean_switches_some_removed_oxidation_(resized).jpgclean_switches_some_removed_oxidation_(resized).jpg

#38 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

10. Put mech board back in.

If you will remember, this is what the mech board looked like before cleaning:

mechs_in_cab_front_(resized).jpgmechs_in_cab_front_(resized).jpg

mechs_in_cab_middle_(resized).jpgmechs_in_cab_middle_(resized).jpg

mechs_in_cab_rear_(resized).jpgmechs_in_cab_rear_(resized).jpg

And this is how it looked after cleaning, disassembly and placement back in cabinet:

mech_board_in_cab_front_side_(resized).jpgmech_board_in_cab_front_side_(resized).jpg

mech_board_in_cab_rear_side_(resized).jpgmech_board_in_cab_rear_side_(resized).jpg

mech_board_in_cab_front_(resized).jpgmech_board_in_cab_front_(resized).jpg

mech_board_in_cab_top_middle_(resized).jpgmech_board_in_cab_top_middle_(resized).jpg

mech_board_in_cab_rear_top_(resized).jpgmech_board_in_cab_rear_top_(resized).jpg

I still have a few screws to put back in place.

Issues:

One fuse holder is not original.
Game Over Interlock Relay still has rust on base.
Hole Score Unit only steps 4 positions and not 5 as it did before disassembly - and I was so careful to take pictures before the dissection! I'm missing something obvious here.

It feels so good to have step #9 complete!

#39 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

One fuse holder is not original.

From my understanding, Bally fuse holders were notoriously brittle, so it would probably be favorable to just replace them. (I know you're keeping everything as original as possible, but this might be a nice upgrade exception. )

Quoted from Pecos:

this is what the mech board looked like before cleaning:

Quoted from Pecos:

And this is how it looked after...

Really pretty! You make me want to paint my mech board.

Keep up the good work, Pecos!

#40 8 years ago

Pecos, Ryan is right about the Bally fuse holders. Double Up likely didn't get as hot inside as the bingos, but if you've had one fuse holder fail, you should heavily consider replacing them all.

I'm sure it will work without (for now) but in my experience failure of one Bally holder means close failure of more.

Bally made their own parts - including the fuse holders. In this case, the part was incredibly inexpensive, and failed with heat or change in temperature. Contrast these holders to Gottlieb from the same era (more like your single replacement). Night and day.

#41 8 years ago

Although I will say that fuse block is not warped or otherwise bad looking. Up to you (of course)!

#42 8 years ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

I'm sure it will work without (for now) but in my experience failure of one Bally holder means close failure of more.

bingo, you are more right than you know. The far right fuse holder top piece is hanging on by a thread and ready to break. Problem is the darned thing is right up front where everyone can see it! I'm going to try and find a way to keep the original board and replace the copper fuse holders - at least the ones that are already broken and the one about to break. I wouldn't bother normally but Double-Up gets special treatment just like my OXO and Black Knight.

#43 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

11. Clean coin door, inside and out, install new leg levelers and clean legs.

How to turn a 3 inch leg leveler into a two inch leg leveler: I use and angle grinder with eye protection. I put the nut on first and screw it to the bottom in case the threads have been damaged. Removing the nut will usually rethread any damaged threads. This is a 'just in case' step. You shouldn't have a problem if you are reasonably careful cutting through the bolt.

The three inch leg levelers went on the back cranked up high and the two inch leg levelers went on the front cranked down low. I should get some good action with this setup.

step_11_leg_levelers_(resized).jpgstep_11_leg_levelers_(resized).jpg

For a machine that had been sitting outside in the Tucson heat and dust and occasional but heavy rain, the legs on Double-Up looked good. These are the first legs from an old pinball that I could unscrew the leg levelers by hand. There was a little bit of rust on the bottom inside of the legs but these painted legs cleaned up easily. I'm unsure whether the black paint on the legs is original or not.

step_11_leg_inside_bottom_(resized).jpgstep_11_leg_inside_bottom_(resized).jpg

step_11_leg_top_inside_(resized).jpgstep_11_leg_top_inside_(resized).jpg

I have never removed a coin door before but I wanted easier access to the rusted bolts and hinges. It was removed fairly easily except for removing the bolts on the lower section of the door. The cabinet plywood had delaminated making it difficult not to damage the cabinet further.

step_11_coin_door_removed_cabinet_(resized).jpgstep_11_coin_door_removed_cabinet_(resized).jpg

I replaced the two #47 lamps behind the 'Quarter' entry plates and cleaned off the few areas of rust. Most of the screws were removed and shined up but the inside of the coin door was in good shape.

The metal edge pieces had some rust on the inside but cleaned up nicely. The screws, nuts and bolts had the most rust.

step_11_coin_door_removed_inside_(resized).jpgstep_11_coin_door_removed_inside_(resized).jpg

I won't be putting the coin door and metal edging back on until the cabinet delamination has been fixed.

While I was at it, I cleaned up the shooter assembly and installed a new rubber tip on the shooter rod:

step_11_shooter_assembly_before_(resized).jpgstep_11_shooter_assembly_before_(resized).jpg

step_11_shooter_assembly_(resized).jpgstep_11_shooter_assembly_(resized).jpg

I also removed the lock-down receiver for clean-up later.

#44 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

Hole Score Unit only steps 4 positions and not 5 as it did before disassembly - and I was so careful to take pictures before the dissection! I'm missing something obvious here.

The mystery has been solved. I was missing something obvious. When counting after reassembly, I was starting at position 0 and not 1. The spider legs start and end where they should. All is well in stepper unit land. And that is good because I still have three more stepper units to do in the backbox!

Let me emphasize again that when you remove the switches and gear stops that you take pictures, better pictures than I took of them.

There is a metal bracket that the switches and gear stop sit on.

stepper_metal_bracket_(resized).jpgstepper_metal_bracket_(resized).jpg

The hole score unit and the bonus unit have different switch configurations!

stepper_each_is_unique_(resized).jpgstepper_each_is_unique_(resized).jpg

Actually, my pictures were good enough if I had reviewed them more closely. Here is a portion of one pic showing the switches and gear stop before disassembly of the bonus unit. Note that the gear stop is to the left of the metal bracket. Also note that some switches are to the left and some to the right of the metal bracket.

stepper_switches_close_up_(resized).jpgstepper_switches_close_up_(resized).jpg

Tonight I also had to move the gear stop on the bonus unit to the left of the metal bracket. After all of the careful work I STILL had it wrong. Fingers crossed, I am pretty sure that both stepper units are properly reassembled.

This can be confusing to say the least. Lesson learned the hard way. Each stepper unit's switches may be uniquely configured!

#45 8 years ago

I did my first cabinet work. I put wood glue on the delaminated plywood, then a layer of wax paper on the top layer of the plywood (thanks Vid for the tip!) and scrap wood pieces over the front and back of the area to be clamped. I am happy with the results. The plywood is now solid albeit the cabinet remains in rough condition. Every time I think about it I want to restore the cabinet, but will leave it in its not-so-good 'original' condition.

cabinet_front_delamination_(resized).jpgcabinet_front_delamination_(resized).jpg

cabinet_front_great_neck_(resized).jpgcabinet_front_great_neck_(resized).jpg

cabinet_front_glued_(resized).jpgcabinet_front_glued_(resized).jpg

I received my order from Pinball Life with the coil sleeves and rubber rings that I needed so it was time to work on the backside of the playfield. The beauty of the playfield business side is its simplicity. All parts were in good condition and there were no hacks. It really looks nice and that is before I started cleaning!

playfield_mech_side_top_(resized).jpgplayfield_mech_side_top_(resized).jpg

playfield_mech_side_middle_(resized).jpgplayfield_mech_side_middle_(resized).jpg

playfield_mech_side_bottom_(resized).jpgplayfield_mech_side_bottom_(resized).jpg

The solenoids originally used metal sleeves and these had to be replaced. The four thumper bumpers, two eject holes, two slingshots, two flippers and outhole assemblies all had to be disassembled, cleaned, new nylon sleeves added and reassembled. It took me about an hour to do each assembly.

thumper_bumper_before_cleaning_(resized).jpgthumper_bumper_before_cleaning_(resized).jpg

thumper_bumper_before_cleaning_removing_plunger_(resized).jpgthumper_bumper_before_cleaning_removing_plunger_(resized).jpg

thumper_bumper_partially_disassembled_(resized).jpgthumper_bumper_partially_disassembled_(resized).jpg

thumper_bumper_after_cleaning_(resized).jpgthumper_bumper_after_cleaning_(resized).jpg

Note: The metal and fiber yoke pieces are upside down in the last picture. Use the pictures above to properly orient the parts when reassembling the pop bumpers.

#46 8 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

Let me emphasize again that when you remove the switches and gear stops that you take pictures, better pictures than I took of them.

This is a great reminder, especially since I'll be tackling my first Bally EM restore in the not-too-distant future. Just for kicks, here's a screen shot of my dated folders, each one full of pictures from my Swinger Restore:

folders_(resized).jpgfolders_(resized).jpg

I imagine my next project will look similar. Ha-ha!

Quoted from Pecos:

The plywood is now solid albeit the cabinet remains in rough condition. Every time I think about it I want to restore the cabinet...

You can DO IT!!! Think how marvelous that cab will look with a fresh coat of paint. Hey, that's how it was ORIGINALLY!

Re-paint!
Re-paint!
Re-paint!

GoPecos_(resized).jpgGoPecos_(resized).jpg

Keep up the great work, Pecos.

#47 8 years ago

I vote repaint.

#48 8 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

I vote repaint.

Sounds like a quorum to me!

#49 8 years ago

I'm not certain it is up to a vote, but I will say that area below the lockbar/above the coin door would bother me. The rest of the front looks OK. How are the sides?

If the sides are alright, I probably wouldn't repaint it, but that's just me. The coin door area would bother me, though. ... Undecided!

#50 8 years ago

They smell better with a nice repaint.

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