(Topic ID: 256003)

Bally 1938 'Lite-A-Pax trade stimulator-resto notes

By wayner

4 years ago


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  • Latest reply 10 months ago by Miguel351
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    #1 4 years ago

    Just completed resto of a Bally 1938 Lite-A-Pax trade stimulator. The object of this machine is to align horizontally a number of cigarette packs from the four vertical stacks to gain cigarette pack prizes per the instruction card below - 5c per game.

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    In reality this is a slot machine with the reels replaced by x 4 steppers which control vertical bulb stacks (18v bulbs) behind the backglass cigarette packs. A pneumatic damper slows the passage of the bulb sequence similar to reels coming to a stop.

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    These machines were produced in natural timber or stencil painted. This machine was in natural timber but the timber was badly marked and, in my view, beyond restore redeemable. I therefore chose to paint the cabinet and prepared a sketched design derived from a machine on Google images.

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    This was a decision not taken lightly and with some regret . Generally I prefer to retain the original patina but in this case felt the machine really did need a fresh vibrant appearance.
    Quite a deal of the wiring cloth insulation was badly frayed at terminal points and in some cases complete lengths of wiring were exposed. The frayed ends were covered with heat shrink tube and the more extensive damage was replaced with donor cloth covered wiring. The steppers and wipers were serviced and lubed.
    I needed to spend quite a deal of time on resolving a non functional pneumatic damper. I fabricated a new leather suction cup (covered earlier in a separate post) and included in 2nd pic below but found after a couple of days the gremlins returned in that the damper offered no resistance. I discovered that the leather cup (or sometimes felt cup in these units) needs to be soaked in 3 in 1 lubricating oil overnight which swells the leather, makes it more subtle and assists to create a continuing air lock. Spent some time getting this result but very glad it was resolved.

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    At some point the backglass had been poorly touched up using a sharpie. I corrected as much as possible without creating further damage as well as quite extensively touching up other parts of the glass. It is not perfect but given its age quite presentable. The cardboard creating the bulb 'cigarette packet' compartments was severely damaged and repaired.

    The coin acceptor was replaced with the correct ‘visible coin acceptor’ (from Crow River Trading) and a coin tray fabricated. A button on the left side of the machine is used by an Operator to cancel any ‘winning screen’ (turns off the machine).

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    The machine now works as it should and is a unique piece for the Gameroom. Overall I am very impressed with the design and engineering prowess of this machine and this era. Finished pics below.

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    #3 4 years ago
    Quoted from Biffbar:

    Resto looks great. Can't be too many of these around, in any condition. Would be a very expensive mechanism for a trade stim, (motor and all), so basically a slot machine mech (as you observed), at 5c a play.
    Is that a small window, to view the coin or some other purpose, just above the cancel button?

    Thks for your kind comment Biffbar. Yes that is an inspection window to observe coin integrity. It is the main reason I purchased the correct 'visible' coin acceptor. There is also a bulb above the mech to observe the coin.

    #6 4 years ago
    Quoted from GPS:

    Beautiful Wayne. Very nice work. I am making some progress on my Gottlieb Grip Strength Tester. I had an issue with my F14 that I wanted to get in back of me so now I am back to working on the GST. I am in the process of putting the dial face back together. Roger made the correct dial face for me and I recently just applied that. Had to remove the small brass rivets that held the face on, adhere the decal and then put the rivets back. I felt that omitting those rivets would really take away from the integrity of the machine. Not sure what kind of dollars you had in your machine but i purchased it, after some discussions, for 375, paint and labor for paint 325, re-chrome 385 a few misc, but very important parts est 100 Worth it in my book as I don't see these very often and they were made by Gottlieb. Hope your well. Must be getting warm down there!

    Great to hear your GTB Grip/Strength tester is coming along well George. I had purchased x6 parts machines to make x3 complete with a few leftover parts and retained x1 and sold x2. I hesitate to recall how much I invested in those machines but certainly the plating of those cast parts was super expensive down here. This is my retained machine.

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    Quoted from GPS:

    By the way, I see that we share a couple games between us. Is it your understanding that Gottliebs Roller Coaster was the first to use elevated "ramps". I was told this by someone and just wanted to see if you were under the same understanding.

    Yes that is my understanding. I sold my Roller Coaster a little while back to a guy up north who makes his living as an 'Elvis' impersonator!

    3 years later
    #8 10 months ago

    I believe the frame is original. Its dimensions are 152mmW x 90mmH. The cutouts are 65mmW x 71mmH. I reproduced the card and am happy to send you a pdf if you send me your email address.

    #10 10 months ago

    These recent posts have reminded me that in my resto I had not reproduced the Bally label on the top bar of the machine. Will get to it.

    I find quite a bit of the water decal material now sold is poor quality but ultimately following a clear coat of the decal they have worked out ok. Although I invariably experience difficulty getting the decal paper through my Brother laser printer even with a 'thick paper' setting. Patience is needed!

    #12 10 months ago
    Quoted from Miguel351:

    The nice thing is, now that I have a Cricut, it should be fairly straightforward to use the white decal paper and cut it out exactly as needed. Or, if that still leaves the cut edge showing some white, then I can make an all white decal cut just slightly smaller and put it underneath the regular clear one. One of those two methods should work....
    Here's what my recreation looks like. It's all Pantone Spot colors now. That will make it easy to reproduce consistently if I decide to have a bunch of them made by a printing company.
    [quoted image]

    Nice job there. I had not realised the label included an address. Not sure what overall sizing you set it at but based on positioning images on Google of the label I sense at about 80% sizing gets it pretty close for Lite A Pax.

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