Concentrate on 1 problem at a time. Re your #2, if the 10,000 not resetting is only on the first player, the easiest thing is to compare its switches to how they operate on a correctly working scoring unit.

Check the third sw. on SM 1C for cleanliness, gap, and "floating contacts." And also the Make/Break on AX.

For #2: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#reels

What about SM 4C 4th sw? And did you check the AX? You also have that M/B on H.

Hi jaybird5619
some theory: In the pin there is AC-Current. AC-Current has an power-side and has an common / return side. I know it is AC but I look at the schematics as if DC would flow - DC flows just like water flows. Your schematics has the transformer - wire to the fuse - further --- I imagine there comes water out / comes DC-Current out.
Current flows through wires / switches / wires reaching an coil. The coil has on its other side an connection (returning path to the transformer). When all switches on the power-side are closed: Current can flow and the coil pulls.
Instead of Your (post-4) 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 I imagine: 7,6,5,4,3,2,1.

A fact about Score-Motor-Switches: There is a playfield-feature-AA needing the help of the motor --- there is a playfield-feature-BB needing the help of the motor --- there is a whatsoever-feature-CC needing the help of the motor --- DD, EE, and more.
WHENEVER the motor does a turn (Gottlieb: A third of a revolution): ALL switches on the motor do actuate --- ALL switches. So every feature has its "feature switch" to accept what the motor--switches do (for him) --- the feature-CC calls for help - closes its (CC) feature switch ( accepts the help --- the other features have their feature-switch open (as they are not calling for help) - they do not accept.

We could name Your O-Relay: "O-Stuff-must-be-done-as-the-ball-has-entered-the-Outhole-Relay".
So the O-Relay calls for help of the Score-Motor (hey motor, please make a turn of 120 degrees) - the O-Relay closes its feature switch to accept the help of closing motor-4C - so the Ball-Return-Coil fires to kick the ball over to the shooter-alley. Eventually the "BX-last-Ball-has-been-lost-has-entered-the-Outhole-Relay" says: Sorry - when the very last ball has been played and has been lost: NO KICKING-OUT of the ball --- I-the-BX-RELAY have actuated and I made my switch open. Greetings Rolf

Jaybird-they are in the "line" leading into the Ball Return. AX shows , too, in this snippet. Also remember that a visual is not a guarantee of good contact. And because of the intermittent nature of this it's a good idea to crimp the contacts involved to eliminate the chance of a "floating" contact, ie-one that's rivet is not tight.

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Needlenose pliers work well. Gently get in and give them a good squeeze.

The way to test for good contact is by diagnosing with Alligator clip jumper wires, not fixing things that may not be broken.

You can squeeze a pair together.

I would take a good look at the BX. And did you ever get to checking the AX? They are tricky, but when you get them right they have a nice snap when locked/unlocked.

From PinRepair: Adjusting these Gottlieb latch relays is more of an art than a science. It takes some practice, and some experimentation to get it right. I can offer some suggestions that should help. First is make sure the switch stacks are tight before you do any switch adjustment (this applies to all relay switch adjustments.) Next make sure that the moving blades have enough back pressure to snap the armature plate to "home" when the latch releases the armature plate. The armature should not come back "soft", but should make a noticeable click. This ensures the most switch travel and precise activation of the armature plate. Last you need to adjust the switches. No rocket science here, just make sure you get as much wiping motion as possible on the switch contacts, without making the contact too close together when the switches are open.

When it doesn't end a game does the BX relay change state at the end of the next-to-last ball?
When it keeps trying to add a player, what are the Start (S) and Replay Button (V) relays doing? Check this switch.

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Be very careful is you mess with the AX BX relays if you do'nt fully understand the proper adjustment it's easy to get it all messed up. I learned the hard way and was shown by someone the correct way to adjust them and I was doing it all wrong! Also do you start with the simple and check and clean the outhole switch? Could just be a dirty or slightly maladjusted outhole switch

There are 2 coils on the BX relay. One coil has a Yellow&Blue&Red wire and the other coil has an Orange&Black wire. Simulating activation of which coil makes your pin work correctly? Or if a phone call would help, PM me your contact information.

The AX has to be working correctly as well. My TA has done some funky things related to those latch switches, and I've had to manually reset each a couple times to get the whole reset sequence working right. Re-read the bit I posted above about adjusting those switches.

Hi jaybird5619
a fully functioning Target Alpha (set to 5 balls per play, playing a One-Player-Game) does NOT actuate the BX-Relay when the fourth ball has been played - has been lost - enters the Outhole --- NO - the BX-Relay actuates when the fifth ball is played - is lost - enters the Outhole - NOW the BX-Relay actuates.

Kerry Imming has a good site - http://www.planetimming.com/ - go to "Testing Gottlieb Player Unit": http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/Player%20Unit%20Troubleshooting.pdf - see at end "The BX-Relay is triggered ...". Greetings Rolf

Check these switches, esp. player unit 5A.

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Hi currieddog, jaybird5619 +
I believe the problem is BX-Coil (((NOT: BX-Reset-Coil))) - in an ONE-Player-Game (in 5 ball per game mode): Along the orange wires (in the JPG) current flows - at the time the O-Relay pulls-in ----- after the last ball has been lost - does enter the Outhole does makes the O-Relay to pull-in. Greetings Rolf

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Check SM 2C, third sw.

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Hi jaybird5619
I think the (Your post-27) "ball eject coil fires and fires" is because the BX-Relay does not pull-in.

When I have a difficult problem (many wires / Jones-Plugs / switches on relays, steppers, score-motor) I then say: First question: Does the coil in question fires when I force connection ? --- as there is no use in checking the connections when the coil is dead.

See the JPG (my blue line) - a Jumper-Wire hooked on "Coil on BX-Relay" - the other end of the Jumper-Wire is laid near the 25VAC-Fuse - laying on wood not touching metal.

An absolute "No - no" is: Bottom of JPG - my "Danger never touch" - the lug on the transformer and the connecting wire-in-the-pin-color-red to the fuseholder - this everything is NEVER to be touched.

We are allowed to use (beeing careful) "other side on the fuse-holder having wire-color-red-green soldered-on" --- we then have the fuse in "what we are doing".

Toggle-off the pin, unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons) - clip-on the Jumper-Wire at "Coil on BX-Relay, side wire-orange-black is soldered-on. Take the other end of the Jumper-Wire near the 24VAC fuse and lay the end / gator-clip of the Jumper-Wire near the fuse - on wood - not touching metal.
Plug-in, toggle-on, start a game, make some points --- NOW grab the Jumper-Wire at the insulation and tip-on and take away the gator-clip of the Jumper-Wire at "fuse side wire-red-green is soldered-on. Question - does the BX-Relay-Coil fire ? Greetings Rolf

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