(Topic ID: 283985)

Ball Trough craziness in Judge Dredd


By durgee7

32 days ago



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  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by durgee7
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    #1 32 days ago

    Hey Everyone,

    Figure I'd ask a larger group of experts outside of the Dredd group on an issue I'm having with a newly acquired Judge Dredd. I've gone through all the Dredd posts and attempted to repair the ball trough reciever board by replacing (what appeared to be) faulty reciever led. I also swapped the old boards with a new set from Marco. The issue is a continuous loading of a second ball when starting a game. In one of my video links below, you will see the game doesn't want to end. The seller mentioned ball trough issues prior to "fixing" for sending a video. Now it's on me, and I accept the fact that this machine is not fully working even though it was advertised as such.

    After swapping the trough boards and continued having the same trough #2 issue, I decided to reseat all the IDC wires to hopefully eliminate any continuity defects. No changes still.

    I want to add that the cpu board battery region has some hacked-up wiring. Maybe this is causing the issues with extra balls loading during regular gameplay?

    I really appreciate any help you guys can provide. Just ignore that line of backbox GI that's not working. Another surprise that was not disclosed in the sale.

    20201217_201230 (resized).jpg
    #2 32 days ago

    Cpu could be an issue.

    Also check the switch matrix for the row and column the ball jam opto is on. Check the other switches on that row and column for a switch wired wrong, diode on backwards, or a short to switch wiring or switch lugs.

    LTG : )

    #3 32 days ago

    Timely post for me. Just set up my JD. Same problem. It’s sporadic and seems to occur after games been played for awhile.
    Replaced trough boards, worked ok for awhile then happened again, after multi ball?
    I read on pinside, to follow switch matrix and check for another faulty switch or “short”.
    Also appreciate any advice

    #4 32 days ago

    Thanks Guys. I'll check all those items and report back.

    #5 31 days ago

    Hi there , seems like it's not reading the ball2 , chech line up of IR diode and opto coupler , easiest to do taking the unit out
    Reason is that when I got the new board it does not line up to well with holes in the chassis so had to tweak it a bit.
    Have been troubleshooting the same , I had failure on the IR board but also the coloum it self , but yours detect all the other so coloum should be fine , believe row if fine also on your game as it look same as mine in test mode , now that all work.

    Regards
    Terje

    #6 31 days ago
    Quoted from Huldra66:

    Hi there , seems like it's not reading the ball2 , chech line up of IR diode and opto coupler , easiest to do taking the unit out
    Reason is that when I got the new board it does not line up to well with holes in the chassis so had to tweak it a bit.
    Have been troubleshooting the same , I had failure on the IR board but also the coloum it self , but yours detect all the other so coloum should be fine , believe row if fine also on your game as it look same as mine in test mode , now that all work.
    Regards
    Terje

    Yeah, I tested the receivers outside of the trough and it's still that same one at Q5 ( trough #2). Since all the other trough locations are registering, I suspect something with the row or cpu. This will be my next check. Thanks!

    #7 31 days ago

    Ok, checked all switches related to the row for trough #2. Checked every opto and they responded...with the trough opto receiver leds sensing ALL 6 balls, BUT switch test keeps showing trough #2 as open. Good news is that the trough and boards are working. Bad news is that it's likely a problem farther downstream, maybe at the cpu? I unplugged some of the connectors on the cpu for switch/row columns with no luck. I closely examined the underside and top of playfield, along with the front of all backbox circuit boards, for any loose wires or signs of a short. I will need to check all diode placements, and maybe take out the cpu to look at the back. I was hoping it would be a simple fix because it usually is. Before all this mess, I changed the playfield GI from incandescents to leds...not sure if that could be a reason for the crazy Left Shooter auto-firing, or the ball trough going nonstop. I also played supergame to see if the trough #2 issue would go away. I did notice some gunk on the right 7-opto board underneath playfield...not sure if that is playing part in this madness.

    In one of the videos, I removed the balls to see how the machine would power up. That's why the ball trough column shows all open boxes. That left auto-firing coils is really ticking me off.


    20201218_142942 (resized).jpg20201218_142950 (resized).jpg

    #8 31 days ago

    Ok, did a switch test directly off the cpu. Hope this is a good indicator that the cpu isn't the problem. More troubleshooting to come.

    #9 31 days ago

    This is a back-to-basics here but I had the same problem with my 'new to me' The Hobbit when I got it set up. In the process of emptying the trough of the 6 balls to start my troubleshooting I noticed the lock bar receiver sticker that says, "Load 5 balls". How many balls do you have loaded?

    #10 31 days ago

    If you've done all the trough testing and it's still an issue, I may have a fix for you. It took me forever to figure it out, but it's already helped a lot of JD owners so it might help you too!

    Where the crane drops the ball through, move the optos out from the left side with some longer screws and washers (or a cut down post sleeve).

    It's the weirdest thing i've ever encountered on a pin, but it will fix the problem. What is happening is when the ball enters deadworld, if it doesn't read it going back through the crane opto, it will add an extra ball into the game on drain/next ball.

    Here's a post talking about it: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dredd-owners-thread-members-only/page/47#post-4014474

    #11 31 days ago
    Quoted from aeonblack:

    If you've done all the trough testing and it's still an issue, I may have a fix for you. It took me forever to figure it out, but it's already helped a lot of JD owners so it might help you too!
    Where the crane drops the ball through, move the optos out from the left side with some longer screws and washers (or a cut down post sleeve).
    It's the weirdest thing i've ever encountered on a pin, but it will fix the problem. What is happening is when the ball enters deadworld, if it doesn't read it going back through the crane opto, it will add an extra ball into the game on drain/next ball.
    Here's a post talking about it: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dredd-owners-thread-members-only/page/47#post-4014474

    I'm definitely trying this tomorrow. I remember reading about this issue...slipped my mind. I appreciate the help.

    #12 31 days ago
    Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

    This is a back-to-basics here but I had the same problem with my 'new to me' The Hobbit when I got it set up. In the process of emptying the trough of the 6 balls to start my troubleshooting I noticed the lock bar receiver sticker that says, "Load 5 balls". How many balls do you have loaded?

    I have 6 loaded. Didn't seem to be an issue with a previous Dredd. Hey, you never know at this point...could be the simplest fix. Appreciate the support.

    #13 30 days ago
    Quoted from aeonblack:

    If you've done all the trough testing and it's still an issue, I may have a fix for you. It took me forever to figure it out, but it's already helped a lot of JD owners so it might help you too!
    Where the crane drops the ball through, move the optos out from the left side with some longer screws and washers (or a cut down post sleeve).
    It's the weirdest thing i've ever encountered on a pin, but it will fix the problem. What is happening is when the ball enters deadworld, if it doesn't read it going back through the crane opto, it will add an extra ball into the game on drain/next ball.
    Here's a post talking about it: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dredd-owners-thread-members-only/page/47#post-4014474

    It was worth a shot but no luck. That stupid left shooter keeps firing likes it's nobody's business. The trough #2 is still showing and unobstructed in switch test, and gamea continue to launch the crap out of balls. Not sure if I need to extend the switch farther than 3/8"...but there isn't much wire left to allow. Back to step 1.

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    #14 30 days ago

    Regarding the left shooter, I started pressing switch 25 which is the extra ball standup target. That occasionally activated the left shooter switch, leading to left shooter plunger activating. Fortunately, these switches are on the same row in the matrix. Must be a short or something causing this issue

    #15 30 days ago

    Ok, checked all switches for that row intersecting ball trough 5 and now, after powering up for a game, the left shooter coil fires rapidly...and now it locks on. I'm guessing this is a circuit board/ transistor or diode issue. Before powering up, I checked continuity for the entire row and it was good.

    #16 30 days ago

    If there is another switch causing it then your main suspects are diodes on the switches. I've never had an intermittent issue caused by a bad transistor, it usually locks on until the transistor melts or the fuse blows. Have you been here for info?

    https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Switch_Problems

    #17 30 days ago
    Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

    If there is another switch causing it then your main suspects are diodes on the switches. I've never had an intermittent issue caused by a bad transistor, it usually locks on until the transistor melts or the fuse blows. Have you been here for info?
    https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Switch_Problems

    Thank you for sending the pinwiki link. I kept getting the wrong links for pinwiki and gave up. This will be extremely helpful! Much better than going by memory. Ok, I'm thinking the diodes are on the power driver board but will confirm with manual and pinwiki. This is a good start!

    #18 30 days ago
    Quoted from durgee7:

    Ok, I'm thinking the diodes are on the power driver board

    Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

    If there is another switch causing it then your main suspects are diodes on the switches.

    LTG : )

    #19 30 days ago

    Oh yeah, I need to learn reading comprehension I happen to have some 1N4004 diodes.

    #20 30 days ago

    Check the diodes on all associated switches for correct orientation. Also gently wiggle each one with your fingers to check for cracked leads or loose solder joints.

    #21 30 days ago
    Quoted from durgee7:

    I need to learn reading comprehension

    Easy to miss. I was hoping to steer you towards a path leading to a fix and not the wrong direction.

    LTG : )

    #22 30 days ago
    Quoted from PNBLWZD:

    Check the diodes on all associated switches for correct orientation.

    I mentioned this earlier and to check the switch is wired right.

    Every switch is wired the same. White wire to black end of a diode on a switch lug. Green wire to a switch lug. Silver band end of diode to a switch lug. Colored stripe doesn't matter to check for this. Only take minutes to check every switch on the game above and below the playfield and compare to each other. Could save you a lot of time if someone replaced a switch and wired it wrong. Or if an exposed switch has the wiring and lugs mashed together.

    LTG : )

    #23 30 days ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    I mentioned this earlier and to check the switch is wired right.
    Every switch is wired the same. White wire to black end of a diode on a switch lug. Green wire to a switch lug. Silver band end of diode to a switch lug. Colored stripe doesn't matter to check for this. Only take minutes to check every switch on the game above and below the playfield and compare to each other. Could save you a lot of time if someone replaced a switch and wired it wrong. Or if an exposed switch has the wiring and lugs mashed together.
    LTG : )

    Ok, checked every single switch (and diode) wiring and they all look correct based on your convention above. That was a nice quick tip for me to check them all. No lugs appear to be touching. Wires and diode direction are correct. All diodes were firmly soldered in place. I'm still leaning towards diode issues for row 5, but who knows. I can check those later since I'll need my soldering iron to reattach or replace the diodes. The interesting thing is how using left and right flippers intermittently activates left shooter. Also, that switch for the extra ball orange target activates 2 other switches in the same row (one being unused). This is a good learning experience for sure and I greatly appreciate the help you've all provided. This reminds me of the switch issue I had on my Gottlied Amazing Spider-Man. It was this one leaf switch that had the metal blades touching beneath the playfield...which was caused by installing new rubber rings. With that issue, it was easier to diagnose.

    Ok, update to this post: I cleaned up excess wire from the IDC connector for ball trough transmitter board. Now, that Switch 25 "extra ball" target only activates itself during switch test. I continue getting intermittent Left Shooter Coil Activation when pressing either flipper button, and when pressing the right ball launch button.

    I visually inspected the left shooter coil while pressing either flipper button. I can see some vibration/movement at the left shooter coil. I was thinking the flipper vibrations could be intermittently triggering the left shooter coil, but then I got the same result pressing the right ball launch button (which causes no vibration).

    20201219_182312 (resized).jpg
    #24 29 days ago

    Latest update: Checked all switch diodes in both directions, making sure green wire was removed from microswitches. All diodes tested normal. I have been googling nonstop to see if this issue has been documented by other owners. There is this site that discusses phantom switches. I tried using that logic and mapped out ball trough switch 85 ("phantom switch") by checking 58, 55, and 88. Also, I made an assumption that left shooter lane switch 15, and checked 51, 11, and 55. I noticed that both scenarios involved Drop Target "U" switch 55. At this point, I visually checked the drop target board, tested wire continuity, but nothing jumped out. Also, the targets work as intended during gameplay. I'm probably going to stop at this point, or later today, because this game needs to be packed up and ready to move to my new location. Thanks again to everyone for providing support to an impatient, yet obsessed, pinball owner. I'll report back when I get more info.

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    2 weeks later
    #25 11 days ago

    Ok, finally moved to our new house...3rd floor! Dredd is ready for more troubleshooting. Can't wait to get back on the project. I'll be annoying...I mean posting soon on my "progress" for this pin.

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    #26 11 days ago
    Quoted from durgee7:

    video links below, you will see the game doesn't want to end

    This is the key. If you have eliminated the optos, mpu, and connections as the cause, you very likely need one of these: ebay.com link » Pinball Ball Trough Repair Sleeve

    My Dredd had trough issues on/off for years until I installed this "sleeve". It fixed my problem 6 years ago and it's never happened again.

    It sounds impossible but the balls on your game are intermittently hanging in the trough, not rolling forward. That is your problem and also why the game/ball "will not end".

    This eventually becomes a problem on most every machine that uses this style of ball feed STTNG, IJ, ect. It starts being intermittent and happens more and more as time goes on.

    This part will help prevent future failures as well. I scratched my head for hours and it was this simple.

    #27 11 days ago

    Thanks snyper2099. I hope you're right. I will go ahead and order that repair sleeve...worth a shot.

    #28 10 days ago

    This might be the breakthrough video. I started wriggling wires at the female connector attached to bottom of ball trough receiver board. Top Trough switch 87 was going in and out. Eventually, it went out. I started checking switches for the same row for Trough Switch 85 which is the one I have been battling for a while. I pressed each JUDGE drop target and noticed letter U activated not only itself but the switch directly next to it on the same row (switch 65 - Not Used). Then, as the video shows, Switch 85 - trough 5 - started blinking rapidly and then the box magically dissappeared, followed by a blurred dmd display. This looks like a connector and/or voltage problem. What do you guys think?

    20210108_090217 (resized).jpg

    #29 10 days ago

    Here's a followup video. I think the issue is with the ball trough receiver connector. Any feedback is appreciated!

    #30 10 days ago

    Maybe not the connector(s), looks more like a cold solder joint to me. Take that board out and reflow solder joints on all connectors and on the large resistor joints.

    #31 10 days ago
    Quoted from snyper2099:

    Maybe not the connector(s), looks more like a cold solder joint to me. Take that board out and reflow solder joints on all connectors and on the large resistor joints.

    Interesting. The trough boards are brand new. I bought new connectors just in case.

    #32 10 days ago
    Quoted from durgee7:

    Interesting. The trough boards are brand new. I bought new connectors just in case.

    Hmm, maybe one is defective. Can you perhaps swap one with another game to help eliminate that possibility?

    In test mode, I was only seeing one square flickering. That means that one of the optos on one of the new boards could just be bent, loose, or not working.

    #33 10 days ago
    Quoted from snyper2099:

    Hmm, maybe one is defective. Can you perhaps swap one with another game to help eliminate that possibility?

    I can swap the originals back in and see what happens. Definitely worth a shot.

    #34 7 days ago

    I think I bought the wrong IDC connector since one edge is solid while the other has slits for wire seating/entry. Not sure how my IDC tool will push down on both sides where a wire doesn't terminate at the contact point. Has anyone ever sliced the solid edge to allow wires to enter and exit connectors like these? Also, the .100 inch IDC tool is not fitting into any of my .100 connectors. I'll need to use the .156 IDC punch tool. Yes, I know about trifurcon pins and how they're much better in the long run. At this point, I just want to get the connector working so that I can play this game in a home environment.

    Thanks!

    20210111_144623 (resized).jpg
    #35 6 days ago

    Ok, I replaced both connectors at the trough boards and...no change whatsoever. Now, one of my last posts showed a blinking switch box. That issues was caused by a loose wire at the ball trough transmitter board and has been resolved. I'll need to study the video below a bit more to find the pattern of random switches activating while pressing other switches. The left shooter solenoid continues to fire intermittently when certain switches (and flipper buttons) are triggered. I did order that metal ball trough repair sleeve mentioned in a previous post but it hasn't even shipped yet.

    This one is tough to troubleshoot.

    #36 6 days ago
    Quoted from durgee7:

    I can swap the originals back in and see what happens. Definitely worth a shot.

    Did you try this? All the info you posted thus far points to the OPTO BOARD(S) on either side of the trough being the issue.

    #37 6 days ago
    Quoted from snyper2099:

    Did you try this? All the info you posted thus far points to the OPTO BOARD(S) on either side of the trough being the issue.

    Yes, just swapped and took a video. Same exact result. I guess it rules out the boards.

    #38 6 days ago

    I just noticed the most bizarre querk that gets the game working, sort of...

    If the U drop target is down, the ball trough has no issues recognizing that ball at trough 5 (SW 85). When drop target U is upright, game goes nuts looking for the ball. I also went through as many switches as possible to see if there were other abnormalities...but the abnormalities occurred while drop target U was upright, so I may need to redo the test. Sounds like Row 5 is the problem.

    20210112_150054 (resized).jpg20210112_150101 (resized).jpg
    #39 6 days ago
    Quoted from durgee7:

    I just noticed the most bizarre querk that gets the game working, sort of...

    If the U drop target is down, the ball trough has no issues recognizing that ball at trough 5 (SW 85). When drop target U is upright, game goes nuts looking for the ball. I also went through as many switches as possible to see if there were other abnormalities...but the abnormalities occurred while drop target U was upright, so I may need to redo the test. Sounds like Row 5 is the problem.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Switch tested when U drop target down and it gave crazier results...all related to row 5. Top right post activated itself along with 2 other switches. I think the right ramp exit optos are reading reverse because the bottom exit is showing Top Right Ramp Exit while the opto directly above is showing Right Ramp Exit.

    Video showing switch test and the effects of activating JUDGE drop targets:

    #40 6 days ago

    Could be a bad or failing IC related to ROW 5 on the MPU board in the head...

    Now that I think about this, the drops use optos correct? If so, it could be related to a failed component or could solder joint at the "opto board" mounted under the PF.

    If any switches in row 5 have a DIODE: check any diodes in ROW 5. Don't just look at it, actually touch each diode to confirm that nothing is touching where it should not AND that a DIODE LEG or a wire has not come loose on one where it's just touching and not soldered... One could also be wired backwards. Also, with a voltmeter, you should check each diode to see if it's shorted closed. However, your symptom points to all switches in the row so probably not a single diode.

    #41 6 days ago

    Thanks snyper2099! I started checking the diodes, noting direction and using multimeter while looking closely at the opto boards underneath the playfield. A while back in the thread, I posted some pics showing those opto boards and noticed some white gunk (or possible leak) on one of the chips. Now, before I got too far with all that, I decided to check the playfield switches and optos one last time. The switch at one of the right ramp exits would activate the ball trough 5 and associated ramp exit switch. I even thought about partially covering that opto to clear the ball 5 trough while maintaining the corresponding right ramp exit opto. After 15 minutes of playing with the optos at the ramp, the trough 5 opto decided to lightly blink...then dissapear as if it recognized the ball in the trough. I kept waiting for the square to show up again in switch test but it stayed off for good this time. I then decided to play a game and it worked! I'm wondering if a bad component or cold solder joint needed time to heat up before allowing proper voltage...but my electronics knowledge is severely lacking, so who knows.

    I played a couple more games after the video above and the machine played beautifully... even the virtual ball locks and deadworld multiball performed as intended.

    The real test will be tomorrow. I'll try starting a game right after powering on to see if this is the case.

    I guess this is a good news /bad news scenario.

    #42 5 days ago
    Quoted from durgee7:

    Thanks snyper2099! I started checking the diodes, noting direction and using multimeter while looking closely at the opto boards underneath the playfield. A while back in the thread, I posted some pics showing those opto boards and noticed some white gunk (or possible leak) on one of the chips. Now, before I got too far with all that, I decided to check the playfield switches and optos one last time. The switch at one of the right ramp exits would activate the ball trough 5 and associated ramp exit switch. I even thought about partially covering that opto to clear the ball 5 trough while maintaining the corresponding right ramp exit opto. After 15 minutes of playing with the optos at the ramp, the trough 5 opto decided to lightly blink...then dissapear as if it recognized the ball in the trough. I kept waiting for the square to show up again in switch test but it stayed off for good this time. I then decided to play a game and it worked! I'm wondering if a bad component or cold solder joint needed time to heat up before allowing proper voltage...but my electronics knowledge is severely lacking, so who knows.

    I played a couple more games after the video above and the machine played beautifully... even the virtual ball locks and deadworld multiball performed as intended.
    The real test will be tomorrow. I'll try starting a game right after powering on to see if this is the case.
    I guess this is a good news /bad news scenario.

    Damn it!!! That was short lived. Powered up and back to that stupid ball trough 5 issue. I'll keep it powered up for 10 or 15 minutes to see if it goes away.

    #43 5 days ago
    Quoted from durgee7:

    Damn it!!! That was short lived. Powered up and back to that stupid ball trough 5 issue. I'll keep it powered up for 10 or 15 minutes to see if it goes away.

    I added a small piece of black electrical tape to partially block that opto at bottom right ramp exit. If I partially cover it, the ball trough 5 opto square dissapears. Game seems to be playing well. Another thing...I remember one of those optos had a missing screw and I'm wondering if previous owner removed it on purpose to get game playing. Just more info.

    20210113_110635 (resized).jpg
    #44 5 days ago
    Quoted from durgee7:

    I added a small piece of black electrical tape to partially block that opto at bottom right ramp exit. If I partially cover it, the ball trough 5 opto square dissapears. Game seems to be playing well. Another thing...I remember one of those optos had a missing screw and I'm wondering if previous owner removed it on purpose to get game playing. Just more info.
    [quoted image]

    More info...the DMD occasionally gets scrambled. It sometimes unscrambles itself. Otherwise I have to turn off the machine to get the DMD cleared up. I'll research that issue using the wpc online resource.

    #45 5 days ago

    Following this thread with interest.. Don't give up. Looking forward to seeing what you find out is the culprit here.

    #46 5 days ago
    Quoted from Calfdemon:

    Following this thread with interest.. Don't give up. Looking forward to seeing what you find out is the culprit here.

    Thanks Calfdemon! Glad to see you've been checking the posts.

    I'll be tackling those node boards underneath the playfield. Also, I need to remove the Power and MPU boards and replace faulty connectors.

    #47 5 days ago

    The node boards are probably best to look at now. A cold solder joint is just a component or header pin that has lost it connection on the solder side of the board. Take the node board(s) out and reflow solder on all the large resistors and all header pins. That should eliminate a cold solder joint being the problem. When soldering, neatness counts! If you practice, sometime you can see them... it’s basically hairline cracks surrounding the leg of the component or header pin. They may even have a “puckered” look. Do a Google search and you will find tons of pictures.

    #48 5 days ago
    Quoted from snyper2099:

    The node boards are probably best to look at now. A cold solder joint is just a component or header pin that has lost it connection on the solder side of the board. Take the node board(s) out and reflow solder on all the large resistors and all header pins. That should eliminate a cold solder joint being the problem. When soldering, neatness counts! If you practice, sometime you can see them... it’s basically hairline cracks surrounding the leg of the component or header pin. They may even have a “puckered” look. Do a Google search and you will find tons of pictures.

    I'm on it! Thanks!!!

    #49 4 days ago

    Here is the existing condition of those opto board underneath the playfield. R15 resistor looks a little rough. Maybe some testing with the multimeter is needed before reflowing solder.

    20210114_140508 (resized).jpg20210114_140517 (resized).jpg20210114_141105 (resized).jpg20210114_141113 (resized).jpg
    #50 4 days ago
    Quoted from durgee7:

    Here is the existing condition of those opto board underneath the playfield. R15 resistor looks a little rough. Maybe some testing with the multimeter is needed before reflowing solder.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    All the large blue resistors (R15-R21) measure .270 which is good. Notice how that one chip at U2 has a couple dark solder points on other side of the board. I need to learn how to test that chip. I did buy a logic probe but need to have a power source for the board if I remember correctly.

    I start checking continuity throughout both boards.

    I'm gonna assume these extra IC's I have from a previous project are not compatible with IC LM339 Quad.

    20210114_144445 (resized).jpg
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    Lighted Pinball Mods
    From: $ 42.00
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 43.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    The MOD Couple
    From: $ 1.25
    Playfield - Other
    Rocket City Pinball
    $ 999.00
    $ 35.00
    Cabinet - Decals
    Pinball Pimp
    $ 79.99
    Cabinet - Armor And Blades
    PinGraffix Pinside Shop
    From: $ 9.99
    $ 259.99
    Cabinet - Toppers
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 17.00
    $ 48.00
    Cabinet - Other
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    £ 99.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    PinballToys
    £ 37.00
    Lighting - Led
    PinballToys
    $ 95.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    pinballmod
    $ 54.99
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 10.00
    Cabinet - Other
    Docquest Pinball Mods
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