(Topic ID: 264645)

Ball return on Comet keeps repeating + right flipper not working


By jreic

15 days ago



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  • 4 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by jreic
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 15 days ago

Hi, the ball return on my Comet machine keeps repeating, as you can see in this video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/yuyXGYAAVKGFyoVf6

This came up when trying to fix the right flipper, which still does not move when pressed. I'm fairly sure the right flipper is wired up correctly--it was originally blowing the fuse when pressed, but I think this stopped after adjusting the EOS switch. Unfortunately it was a few months between each time I went to work on it, since it's down at my dad's house (who recently passed away--it was his machine, but this was puzzling to him too) which is a few hours away.

Any ideas for what might be happening? Should I order a new solenoid and EOS switch for the right flipper? Or is it more likely a wiring issue? I'm assuming the ball return issue is related, but I'm sure you guys know better than me!

Thanks!

#2 11 days ago

I have a comet pinball too, and just finished refurbishing it, so I will try to help you. First of all I'd like to know how technical you are, have you worked on electronics before, do you have experience soldering and do you have a multimeter. Maybe all is not required, but it would help.

The problems as far as I can see are not related, the flippers work in a direct manner, and the ball kicker works via a switch to the main board.

The way the flipper works is with high voltage for the initial flip, and then low voltage to keep the flipper 'up'. this is where the end of stroke switch comes in, it switches from one part of the coil to the other. The most important part is adjusting this switch, to make sure the high voltage is disabled and the low voltage is enabled. If the high voltage stays enabled, the coil would burn. If the 2 parts of the switch make contact, so high to low voltage, the fuse would burn. There are quite a few video's about how to adjust the switch so I suggest you look at these and do the adjustment. If the high voltage doesn't make contact the flipper doesn't work, so this might explain it not working at the moment.

Then there is the pinball kicker continuously activating, there is a switch with a metal lever in the opening of the playfield. This switch is normally activated when the ball is drained and rolls onto the lever pushing down the switch. Try and see if pushing the lever slightly up disables the switch and stops the kicker. The outhole switch is switch 45 which is row 5 (why-grn on connector 1J10-5) and column 6 (gun-blu on connector 1J8-7), pushing this switch would 'short' these 2 wires, and yo could measure these 2 pins if this is the case, if not we will have to look at the solenoid activation side.
If you runs the diagnostics, there is also an option to see which switches are activated (test 3 in the credits display), in a fully working comet with no ball inside, none of them should be activated. If this test is running and a switch is activated it will make a sound and show you the related switch number.

Hope this will help you out a bit, let me know how it goes and I'll try to help you further.

Screenshot 2020-03-25 at 23.13.35 (resized).png
#3 11 days ago

Try this video to see how the flipper switches work. This is a newer generation pinball and has the yellow capacitors which your machine probably doesn't have, but the switches should be very similar. You see that one is closed and one is open, then when you press the flipper button the first one opens, and the second one closes. You can 'bend' the switches to adjust them, but do so at the 'root' of the switch, not at the end, the metal leafs should be straight, not bent.

#4 9 days ago
Quoted from Patzik:

I have a comet pinball too, and just finished refurbishing it, so I will try to help you. First of all I'd like to know how technical you are, have you worked on electronics before, do you have experience soldering and do you have a multimeter. Maybe all is not required, but it would help.

Yes, I have some experience soldering and do have a multimeter. My education is in physics, so I've worked on electronics a bit (but I am not an expert by any means).

Thanks for all of the information--I'll try to diagnose the flippers and the kicker when I'm back with the machine again, probably in a few weeks. It's at least good to know that these are likely two separate issues, and that there are some things worth checking before ordering new parts. If I remember right, it did look like the flipper switch was probably incorrectly bent in the past, which is probably part of my problem.

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