(Topic ID: 264752)

Ball kicker issue

By Tronn1982

4 years ago


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  • 14 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by FatPanda
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#1 4 years ago

Issue with both ball kickers on a space shuttle. When I ground the tab on the transistor they both fire no problem. So i assumed it was the switches, I checked continuity from the switch to the connector in the backbox, tested good. Checked continuity from the other side of the connecter to the IDC Connector on the CPU board, tested good as well. So I plugged the connector back in and tested continuity from the switch itself directly to the IDC connector on the motherboard and it also tests good.

So I'm kinda stumped really, they used to work before I pulled the playfield out a year ago to shop the game but now that its back together again they don't activate. The coils fire when I short the transistor and the wiring to the switches is good. I don't know where to look now.

#2 4 years ago

Do coils fire in test menus?

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from pinmike:

Do coils fire in test menus?

No but I dont think they are supposed to. They have to be manually triggered in the test mode by hitting their switches just like the pop bumpers. Hittung the switches in test has no effect, they don't fire.

#4 4 years ago

Did you check for a blown fuse?Pull them out and test with meter

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from pinmike:

Did you check for a blown fuse?Pull them out and test with meter

They are all good, I normally test with them in the holder with my meter on either side of the holder itself so it also verifies the crappy fuse holders are also working and making good connection.

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from Tronn1982:

They are all good, I normally test with them in the holder with my meter on either side of the holder itself so it also verifies the crappy fuse holders are also working and making good connection.

They sometimes test good in the holder but it’s always best to pull them out..

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from Tronn1982:

No but I dont think they are supposed to. They have to be manually triggered in the test mode by hitting their switches just like the pop bumpers. Hittung the switches in test has no effect, they don't fire.

Based on the manual, the only special solenoids are L/R kicker and all 3 pop bumpers. The left eject hole is controlled by solenoid Q49 and right eject is controlled by solenoid Q50. I would continue from there. Might be a cracked solder joint or something. They should fire in test.
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#8 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Based on the manual, the only special solenoids are L/R kicker and all 3 pop bumpers. The left eject hole is controlled by solenoid Q49 and right eject is controlled by solenoid Q50. I would continue from there. Might be a cracked solder joint or something. They should fire in test.
[quoted image]

The problem is the kickers not the eject holes.

#9 4 years ago

oh, my bad

Then you're right. They are special solenoids and shouldn't interface with any drivers.

#10 4 years ago

Check to see that they're being ground properly. If you've reflowed solder to the pins, and checked all the continuity between the switches and all that, then I would check the ground.

#11 4 years ago

I'm not sure if you mentioned that you checked the continuity from one blade of the switch to the other. Check from the tabs themselves.

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I'm not sure if you mentioned that you checked the continuity from one blade of the switch to the other. Check from the tabs themselves.

I checked the switches themselves and they beep when the blades are connected so its not dirty switches, that would have been great lol

Cold solder joints is something i haven't checked yet, getting this CPU board out sucks so i was avoiding it lol. I guess I have some other board repairs to do so I might as well pull it.

I didn't check the switches connection to ground, I didn't think about the fact that they don't work like the normal matrix switches. Ill check that thanks too thanks!

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I'm not sure if you mentioned that you checked the continuity from one blade of the switch to the other. Check from the tabs themselves.

fixed it

There was no ground continuity for those switches, and I realized right away what it might be

It was my fault lol I converted the game to LED's during the restore and the flash bulbs need the warming resistor removed so I removed the ground connection off of the flash lamp board under the playfield. At the time I didn't think about the fact that it might be a common ground and not specific to the flash lamps. Sure enough I removed the heat shink I had put on the two wires, soldered them together and re did the heat shink and they work fine now. Thanks for the ground suggestion that set me on the right path.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from Tronn1982:

fixed it
There was no ground continuity for those switches, and I realized right away what it might be
It was my fault lol I converted the game to LED's during the restore and the flash bulbs need the warming resistor removed so I removed the ground connection off of the flash lamp board under the playfield. At the time I didn't think about the fact that it might be a common ground and not specific to the flash lamps. Sure enough I removed the heat shink I had put on the two wires, soldered them together and re did the heat shink and they work fine now. Thanks for the ground suggestion that set me on the right path.

Awesome! Glad you were able to figure it out! Now play the hell out of that game

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