Quoted from DCFAN:Who put the screw in the playfield?
It was installed at the factory by Stern I added the washers.
Quoted from DCFAN:Who put the screw in the playfield?
It was installed at the factory by Stern I added the washers.
Quoted from centerflank:Who put the screw in the play field?
It was installed at the factory by Stern.
Quoted from centerflank:Who put the screw in the play field?
It was installed at the factory by Stern Crashnburn added the washers......and repeats his posts.
My understanding is that some of the older machines do not have the screw put in. Apparently, at some point they started adding this to the PF. My machine was mfg. in the middle of October.
Quoted from beatmaster:good, so, the screw is to low, seems to work now, i guess the best solution would be this with the rubber.
i'd probably do that when i get mine.
The screw maybe already there check it when you get it.
Quoted from beatmaster:good, so, the screw is to low, seems to work now, i guess the best solution would be this with the rubber.
i'd probably do that when i get mine.
.detail.jpg 8 KB
That will only move the ball stop from the existing post to the new post that you will install. Raising the screw up as I suggested seems to be the fix. Adding the screw has been a service bulletin on some older sterns with this ball stop issue (High Roller Casino)
Quoted from Chrizg:That will only move the ball stop from the existing post to the new post that you will install. Raising the screw up as I suggested seems to be the fix. Adding the screw has been a service bulletin on some older sterns with this ball stop issue (High Roller Casino)
you could be right, i'm gonna try the screw first that's for sure.
Quoted from beatmaster:you could be right, i'm gonna try the screw first that's for sure.
Seems like metal on metal may be a good way to eventually scratch up the ball... especially if it is getting kicked around by the pops. Scratched-up balls = tough on PF.
Wonder if there is another solution?
Quoted from Chrizg:That will only move the ball stop from the existing post to the new post that you will install.
True, but I am thinking that a post is more likely to position the ball such that gravity pulls the ball down to the pop bumper skirt whereas with just a screw, the ball is still at a shallow angle against the pop bumper skirt and therefore does not trigger the pop bumper.
Quoted from Manic:Seems like metal on metal may be a good way to eventually scratch up the ball... especially if it is getting kicked around by the pops. Scratched-up balls = tough on PF.
Wonder if there is another solution?
I do not know how much damage will occur but the ball is harder than the screw.
Quoted from Manic:Seems like metal on metal may be a good way to eventually scratch up the ball... especially if it is getting kicked around by the pops. Scratched-up balls = tough on PF.
Wonder if there is another solution?
Try a brass screw
Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:Try a brass screw
That is a good suggestion. I think I will change mine. A brass screw and washers will be much softer on the ball. It will be interesting to see if the Mohs scale works in action here.
Quoted from Crashnburn:Have any of you guys with ST have the ball getting stuck on the right side of the lower bumper and exit lane?
Happened to me as well on the pro. Almost tilted to get it to roll out.
Quoted from Santeh:That is a good suggestion. I think I will change mine. A brass screw and washers will be much softer on the ball. It will be interesting to see if the Mohs scale works in action here.
Haha well it will, but it would more appropriately be a Brinell or Rockwell C scale. Mohs is more for minerals and rocks.
A well hardened ball bearing should be over 60 HRc at the surface, and your brass screw won't be anywhere near that... something more like 18 HRC maybe. Which isn't even technically on the Rockwell C scale, it would be a B scale measurement.
In short: Brass won't scratch a hardened ball bearing
It's very rare but I still get one stuck. It only needs a little nudge and the ball is out. I am still tring to find a rubber piece that will be the right size to install. If I find one I will post the info.
Quoted from Manic:Seems like metal on metal may be a good way to eventually scratch up the ball... especially if it is getting kicked around by the pops. Scratched-up balls = tough on PF.
Wonder if there is another solution?
You can definitely hear the ball hit the screw sometimes. I have not seen any wear so far.
Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:Haha well it will, but it would more appropriately be a Brinell or Rockwell C scale. Mohs is more for minerals and rocks.
A well hardened ball bearing should be over 60 HRc at the surface, and your brass screw won't be anywhere near that... something more like 18 HRC maybe. Which isn't even technically on the Rockwell C scale, it would be a B scale measurement.
In short: Brass won't scratch a hardened ball bearing
In the end I elected to keep the original screw and just use some brass washers from Home Depot. So far the fix is working perfectly, although I thought a few times the ball still might hang as it rolled slowed onto the screw and looked like it was going to stop but it kept on going.
I do agree that the brass is softer than steel thus it should work well, although by my keeping the original Stern screw that issue is moot.
STLE Brass Washer Fix.JPGQuoted from Crashnburn:I am still tring to find a rubber piece that will be the right size to install. If I find one I will post the info.
A regular fat white post rubber below the factory black rubber should do it.
1. Remove plastic
2. Raise factory black rubber on the post closest to the screw (pictured above)
3. Install *WHITE* 7/16th outside diameter post ring on that post
4. Push factory black rubber back down, just above the white post rubber
5. Reinstall plastic
Should work fine and no one will ever see it. And no need to touch the factory playfield screw.
Not sure if I want to have brass shavings grinding around the playfield when the ball hammers on the washers.
Quoted from silverball0:Not sure if I want to have brass shavings grinding around the playfield when the ball hammers on the washers.
I will keep an eye out for that. I suppose it is a tough spot in that you have the chance of some brass coming off (although I am more inclined to think the brass will bend) or even more steel to ding the ball and maybe hurt the playfield that way. Yet if Stern thought that a steel screw was okay, then maybe all steel is okay.
I think the screw was a quick fix from Stern to get the game out into the public, remember they are not concerned in long life of the playfield. They just want to eliminate a problem. Hell you could get a 1/4 by 3/4 rubber washer from a plumbing shop and set the screw in it to protect the balls and metal screw.
Quoted from silverball0:Not sure if I want to have brass shavings grinding around the playfield when the ball hammers on the washers.
I would be surprised if a smooth brass screw and a smooth steel ball can produce shavings. The brass will dent and bend but as long as you aren't scraping or stripping the screw, you're more likely to generate metallic debris with a harder steel screw IMO.
ok, I know this sounds weird, but what about one of those small plastic/rubber bubble topped stickers you can buy at crafts stores for scrapbooking? If you could find one the right size and thickness it might work.
Quoted from Santeh:In the end I elected to keep the original screw and just use some brass washers from Home Depot.
Could you please share the size of the washers you used?
Thanks!
Are you sure this isn't a level issue? Seems a weird fix to have to make and haven't had any problems of this kind yet.
Quoted from Admiral:Could you please share the size of the washers you used?
Thanks!
#6 washers.
Quoted from sillyoldelf:Are you sure this isn't a level issue? Seems a weird fix to have to make and haven't had any problems of this kind yet.
No this is not a level issue. Too many people have the problem and Stern adds the screw to try and fix it.
I have an early production and there is no screw on my playfield at that location. I am going to add 1/2 a post sleeve under the ruber and see if it does the job.
Fixed!!! I cut a post sleeve in half and then slit it open so I could spread it open and placed around to lower half of the post under the rubber. No need to remove any ramps or plastics. It is a little tricky to get you hand in to place it, but well worth it. I would take a photo but the area is too tight.
Quoted from maf-mi:I would take a photo but the area is too tight.
A photo would be really great, please.
A cell phone camera can be used... The iPhone would fit into there.
Also, what's a Post Sleeve?
Thanks!
Quoted from maf-mi:Fixed!!! I cut a post sleeve in half and then slit it open so I could spread it open and placed around to lower half of the post under the rubber. No need to remove any ramps or plastics. It is a little tricky to get you hand in to place it, but well worth it. I would take a photo but the area is too tight.
Pics please
Quoted from maf-mi:Just under the Rubber on the post, next to the pop bumper. I slit the little sleeve and spread it to go around the post./blockquote>
Thanks for the pic. What can you tell us about where to get this little sleeve and what part # it is?
Cheers!
Quoted from Admiral:Could you please share the size of the washers you used?
Thanks!
Hello!
I bought the flat washers from Home Depot and matched the size of the washer to the screw, which I took with me. However, the flat washer bag only says:
#6
Brass
19981
Doing a search for model 19981, I get:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-6S-Brass-Flat-Washers-12-Pack-19981/202704558?keyword=19981#
Since I installed the washers, I have played my STLE quite a bit and only recall the ball becoming stuck one time. All-in-all, then, I am quite happy with the fix.
I hope this helps! If you have any further questions, please let me know.
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