(Topic ID: 91385)

Pink Panther Ball capture solenoids lock on at power up

By Tridentphoto

9 years ago


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  • 30 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by Stretch7
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#1 9 years ago

So I'm working on a Pink Panther and the solenoids lock on when you turn it on. I just put in a brand new MPU and driver board, still the same. Switches are not stuck closed either.
Ideas?image-127.jpgimage-127.jpg

#2 9 years ago

Just the two ball capture solenoids that is.

#3 9 years ago

This is the driver board. There are 4 LEDs on.image-928.jpgimage-928.jpg

#4 9 years ago

Could it be the big silver power transistor? 2n5875 that's failed causing the problem?

#5 9 years ago

Bump
I plan to take another stab at it this weekend, I'd love an second opinion.

#7 9 years ago

Yes the large under-playfield driver transitors could be your problem. Test them with a meter and see if they
are shorted.

#8 9 years ago

You can try it simple.. (with power off) disconnect one side of connector between MPU and driver board..

Turn power ON and see what happens

After that - (with power off) remove ALL connectors from driver board !!!!!

Turn power ON and see....

If solenoids are still locked replace those 2N5875 transistors !!

Greetings from Croatia

#9 9 years ago

Shit. I replaced the two 2n5875s, and still it's locking the coils on at start up.
grrrr.
Could it be stemming from a bad rectifier? Or is there another possibility?

#10 9 years ago

At least it's only the left solenoid that's acting up right now. The new transistor seems to be helping the right ball lock.
I still get the same lights on the driver board as in the photo above.
I also get locked on even if the CPU or the driver board is disconnected.
This is really frustrating.

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from cro_pinman:

You can try it simple.. (with power off) disconnect one side of connector between MPU and driver board..
Turn power ON and see what happens

What's happens in this case ?
(or I did miss something ?)

#12 9 years ago

With the board unplugged, it still locks the left ball capture when you turn it on.

#13 9 years ago

If left ball capture locks without ANY connector plugged at driver board, problem MUST be in 2N5875 transistor,
or resistor on base ( BTW.. did you replace left capture transistor - check whether the emitter and base are properly connected )

(now,right lock working properly ? )

#14 9 years ago

Yes I replaced the two transistors, both left and right. The right no longer locked on. Could the new one be bad out of the box?

#15 9 years ago
Quoted from Tridentphoto:

Could the new one be bad out of the box?

Possible, but I doubt ,in my practice of over 30 years of repairing (not only pinballs), perhaps happened - once)
(maybe, you are "lucky man" ? )

but...

Quoted from cro_pinman:

check whether the emitter and base are properly connected )

Because - wire colors are very (VERY !!) similar !

------orange - green - green --------- (connected to emitter )

----------------green - yellow - yellow ------- ( connected to base )

)

And "little" observation.... resistor - wow...have you ANY resistor on transistor's base ?!? )
If you have ANY resistor in range from 470 Ohm to 4,7KOhm - solder it (power off -off course )
between the base and emitter, (NOT collector - housing !!)

Check with ALL driver's board connectors - disconnected !

#16 9 years ago

I'll double check the wiring, and add a resistor. Maybe that will help.
I'll keep you posted.

#17 9 years ago

To clarify, you suggest putting the resistor between the two pins on the transistor right?

#18 9 years ago
Quoted from Tridentphoto:

To clarify, you suggest putting the resistor between the two pins on the transistor right?

yes

Quoted from cro_pinman:

------orange - green - green --------- (connected to emitter )
----------------green - yellow - yellow ------- ( connected to base )

(between this wires)

Do you have DMM ?

EDIT: !!!!!!
When I said..
"If you have ANY resistor in range from 470 Ohm to 4,7KOhm - solder it (power off -off course )
between the base and emitter"

Word "ANY" is for TEMPORARY ("handy") resistor, standard (Gottlieb's) value is 4,7Kohm

#19 9 years ago

make sure transistor has proper insulator on it . that is important or it will short itself. also, replace the wire wound resistor in line with that transistor.

#20 9 years ago

I'll get on that by the coming weekend. I'm super swamped right now for the next 4-5 days.
Thanks for the advice guys.

#21 9 years ago

For crying out loud man! The resistor was just the trick to keep the solenoid from locking on during boot up, however, the solenoids don't work at all now.

And I can get the lights to turn off by doing this

Also there's no sound. God I hate Gottlieb stuff. It's so Greek to me.

I am at the mercy of the group here.

#22 9 years ago

I'm just going to clue you in to a Mars God of War I had...
I spent countless hours under the hood of that game, despite it being in MINT condition...it had a similar problem. Finally, had found that what looked like a factory wired up connector, in fact had a wire in the wrong place! That's all it took. Probably why It was mint, it could never be played.

good luck, you have my pm...

#23 9 years ago

Is it possible that there's a design flaw or incorrect part on your board? I noticed another thread that seems to have the same board and same LED issue. Sure as heck can't be a Canadian issue.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/haunted-house-blowing-solenoid-fuse-on-start-up#post-1698176

Steve

#24 9 years ago
Quoted from Tridentphoto:

And I can get the lights to turn off by doing this

Definitely a problem with this board, if there any guarantee?
(unfortunately, with these boards I have not any experience )

Quoted from Tridentphoto:

the solenoids don't work at all now

ALL solenoids, or..... ? (check 24V fuse)

Quoted from Tridentphoto:

Also there's no sound

Keep calm....(turn power off ) and check ALL connections from SPEAKER (drawn wire ? ) connectors on driver board...ALL connectors (sound commands goes trough driver board,from J1 via J5)
(also re-connect ALL connectors at bottom of cabinet !! )

Turn power on and check +5V voltage ON driver board

And of course, can you find one good driver board (tested) ?

#25 9 years ago

I'm about to set it on fire. I'm at my wits end with this thing. I need someone smarter than me to look at it.
The right solenoid doesn't lock on at startup like it did before I replaced the transistor, but it is still drawing power. It's not enough to pull the coil rod, but if you manually assist it, it will hold it there.
It does this with nothing attached on the MPU or power driver board too.

#26 9 years ago

...sound is back ?

....did you reconnect ALL connectors (ESPECIALLY !! ) at bottom of cabinet ?

.....added resistor is STILL connected on transistor which drawing power ? (value of resistor ? )

And YES...you (probably) have "famous" Gottlieb's ground issue, if you have (some ? ) patience
you can fix it (of course, soldering skill is necessary)
There are few good explanations on WEB how to do it
(or call someone "pro"........ hard to say from this distance )

#27 9 years ago

I had some odd sound for a bit, but now it's gone too.
I'll look into the grounding issue, but there is a few added ground lines already, so I think someone tried that ground mod before.
I have 4.7k resistors on the transistors.
I never disconnected any of the connectors in the bottom of the cab, which ones are you referring to?

And thanks for your help.
Jeff

#28 9 years ago

if the backglass isn't thrashed, I'll give you a grand for the whole game as is. Cash is never frustrating.

#29 9 years ago

There is a bit of flaking in the pink. But overall, I'd rather keep it than sell it. I really want it to work.

10 months later
#30 8 years ago

I recently acquired this machine and have solved the problem to help people out with same issue.
There are 2 molex connectors with 4 prongs...1 for the speaker and 1 for the power transistors.
It turned out the speaker molex plug was connected to the power transistor molex plug and vice versa.

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