(Topic ID: 199192)

Bad girls boards pics (adding new swemmer board)

By Hdmike444

6 years ago


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  • 23 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by MarAlb
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#1 6 years ago

Hi all
Does anyone have a bad girls they could snap some pics of? I need to see the wiring in the back box as it pertains to the mpu. I just bought a swemmer mpu but my original had some funky hacks and I need to see how to go back to normal.
Thanks mike

#2 6 years ago

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#3 6 years ago

whats wrong with the mpu in the pic you posted?

#4 6 years ago

It has a ton of acid damage
I brought it to a friend (aardvark pinball)who does board repair and he said it isn't woth repair

#5 6 years ago

I don't see any hacks in the photo. The DIP plug mess at TC1 is normal for these later System 80s.
That connector used to go to a 'watchdog' board which would reset the CPU if certain signals went inactive.
Not sure if the Swemmer board added a watchdog timer or not. If so, this mess can be mostly disposed of. One other issue is that 3K pullup resistor from Vcc to the read/write line (pin 7 to 11) is important. Some CPUs don't work reliably without it.

#6 6 years ago

Ok thanks
I didn't realize that was removable. I have the new board in and upon power up the knocker and flashers are locked on. Any thoughts?
Also should all the dip switches on the new board match the old one?

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#7 6 years ago

You can just bypass that reset board stuff on the swemmer. It is not needed with the new swemmer mpu. I just got one in my devils dare.

#9 6 years ago

Based on the photo's I have seen - it is a direct copy of the original and did not include an embedded watchdog circuit.
If it is a copy of the original board, why would the reset board not be needed on the swemmer as well?

#10 6 years ago

Anyone have and ideas on the flashers and knocker being stuck on or the dip switch locations

#11 6 years ago

I would imagine t
You would set dip switches to how ever you had your game set up. Not sure on the locked coil or flasher, were they locked on before?

#12 6 years ago

I'm not sure about the coils and flashes being locked on before as a game wouldn't do anything because the MPU was so bad
As far as the dip switches go on the board I will set them up the way they are on my current board and see what happens

#13 6 years ago

Mike, I would almost bet that your power supply is bad. They SUCK, and I would just replace it.

#14 6 years ago

At this stage, your old CPU board can still be saved if you remove that Varta backup battery asap. Notice also the burnt 3V zenerdiode in the undervoltage protection which is a design error.....

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from the96stang:

Mike, I would almost bet that your power supply is bad. They SUCK, and I would just replace it.

Thx I'll check that

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from MarAlb:

At this stage, your old CPU board can still be saved if you remove that Varta backup battery asap. Notice also the burnt 3V zenerdiode in the undervoltage protection which is a design error.....

I don't want to put more cash into the old board since I just bought a new one

#17 6 years ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

I don't want to put more cash into the old board since I just bought a new one

Removing a battery won't cost you a $ assuming you own a solder iron. If you leave it there for some time you can throw it away for sure. If you remove it might be usefull as a spare or sell it for some $. Just a thought. It is your board of course.

#18 6 years ago
Quoted from MarAlb:

Removing a battery won't cost you a $ assuming you own a solder iron. If you leave it there for some time you can throw it away for sure. If you remove it might be usefull as a spare or sell it for some $. Just a thought. It is your board of course.

I'll yank it off tonight just for the heck of it

#19 6 years ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

Anyone have and ideas on the flashers and knocker being stuck on or the dip switch locations

dip switches are just like factory settings

#20 6 years ago

Thx I set them to match but that point is mute until I get the game to do something

#21 6 years ago

You are telling us the knocker and flashers are locked on. Is the game coming to attract mode, i.e. displays coming up, controlled illumination is running?

Bad Girls is one of the fewer games which are running a 2732 in PROM2 socket. Is the Swemmer board configured like that? Most of the games are running a 2716 in PROM2 socket.

Your old board was affected by a leaking battery.....the 4 pin power connector at the cpu might be damaged and if so, it has to be repinned. Same counts for the switchmatrix J6 connector.

The 5V power supplies are usually fine. Just tighten the screws for the LM338 regulator, replace and adjust the 500 Ohm pot for a sealed multiturn and reflow the header pins and it should last for years again.

If the so called "ground updates" are executed: DO NOT use the heatsink form the 5V power supply as a Ground Plane as it is barely isolated from the +5V (which is present at the case of the LM338 regulator).

#22 6 years ago

No attract mode or displays the only thing that comes on are the flashers,knocker, and the strip of lights at the top back of the play field with the girls on it, those seem to be working

#23 6 years ago

Your CPU is not booting. The light strip is controlled by an independent aux lampdriverboard. This means there is +5V. But it is a good idea to measure if the +5V is landing at the CPU board by measuring it over the 100uF cap and eventually adjust it if it is low.

Check the setting for game PROM2. By default it is probably set for a 2716 Eprom. For Bad Girls it needs to be set for using a 2732 Eprom. Ask Fred Swemmer how to jumper it like that or check for info on the silkscreen at the board, I never used these replacement boards.

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