Bad connector Question - GI Lighting

Hello - I've gotten a lot of the issues taken care of on my Gilligan's Island machine thanks to a lot of you guys. In the process of replacing the bulbs I discovered the GI lights on the yellow/white wires were not working. I tracked them back to J115 and discovered that someone did a bad repair job and the connect has either been cut in two or split on its own. Either way there is a terrible connection that I think is keep it from working. Below are pictures of the connector along with one of the GI lights that isn't working. Is there any information out there on how to order the correct connector along with how to do it? Thanks in advance for the help!

GI (resized).JPG

Connector (resized).JPG

#2 6 years ago

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MJW

Pinside member

Should be . 156 connectors. Most people recommend using trifurcon molex connectors instead of IDC connectors. Marco sells the connectors and and new plastic housings. I have found that a ratcheting crimping tool works best. Connections are tight and professional looking. Only strip Avery small amount off the wire or it will protrude out of the back of plastic housing after the crimp instead of being in the plastic. Do one wire at a time so you don't mix them up.This is very important. You should be able to find a tutorial on you tube or Pinside .

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#3 6 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

This will help you sort the wires out :

LTG : )

#4 6 years ago

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MJW

Pinside member

Forgot to mention. Count the number of wires that are in the connector you are replacing to order the right size plastc connector. If there is a key or space not used they sell plastic plugs that go in the connector .

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#5 6 years ago

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MJW

Pinside member

I'd order extra connectors if this is your first time doing this. You'll see on the to pof the crimp terminal there is a slot that locks into the connector housing. If you put it in the wrong way it won't lock and will come out or get stuck in there.

#6 6 years ago

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MJW

Pinside member

LTG, if he has two put two wires in the same connector slot what is the best method? Sometimes they also loop back in. I've always had trouble with that. Slot to small for two wires ...

#7 6 years ago

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jmiller1976

Inactive member

This is great.....Thanks so much for the help MJW and LTG!! I really appreciate it.

#8 6 years ago

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MJW

Pinside member

Quoted from MJW:
LTG, if he has to put two wires in the same connector slot what is the best method? Sometimes they also loop back in. I've always had trouble with that. Slot to small for two wires ...

#9 6 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

Quoted from MJW:
LTG, if he has two put two wires in the same connector slot what is the best method? Sometimes they also loop back in. I've always had trouble with that. Slot to small for two wires ...

I make a "Y", two wires together to form one and then stick the one in the connector.

LTG : )

#10 6 years ago

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jmiller1976

Inactive member

Quoted from LTG:
I make a "Y", two wires together to form one and then stick the one in the connector.
LTG : )

LTG - Any chance you could provide a picture of this?

#11 6 years ago

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MJW

Pinside member

Quoted from LTG:
I make a "Y", two wires together to form one and then stick the one in the connector.
LTG : )

Thanks Loyd. miller, you may have to do this on some of your connectors. This is if two wires need to go in the same connector. Glad to help....

#12 6 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from jmiller1976:
LTG - Any chance you could provide a picture of this?

Give me a little time and I will.

LTG : )

#13 6 years ago

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jmiller1976

Inactive member

Thanks guys!

#14 6 years ago

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MJW

Pinside member

The wire should have went in further but was tough taking a pic . I think you get the idea..

image (resized).jpg

#15 6 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from jmiller1976:
LTG - Any chance you could provide a picture of this?

LTG : )

GIY (resized).JPG

GIY1 (resized).JPG

GIY2 (resized).JPG

GIY3 (resized).JPG

#16 6 years ago

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MJW

Pinside member

Lay your connector yor in the jaws like this. It's the opposite of what you would think. Put wire in and close / open the ratcheting pliers quickly. If you don't it's hard to get the wire and connector to come out.

image (resized).jpg

#17 6 years ago

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RonSwanson

Pinside+ Frequent

Auburn, AL

6y 83,300 299 4 11

Quoted from LTG:
I make a "Y", two wires together to form one and then stick the one in the connector.
LTG : )

I found it made things a bit easier if I temporarily taped the two wires together so that the stripped ends stayed even with each other as I put them in the crimper. I didn't need to add the extra wire to form the Y.

#18 6 years ago

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jmiller1976

Inactive member

I really appreciate the pictures. I'm a visual person so thank you very much. I'll get the necessary parts on order and will update you all one I have it done. Thanks again everyone!

#19 6 years ago

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jmiller1976

Inactive member

Hi All - I received everything to complete this repair and in the process of completing the repair discovered that the pins have separated from the board. I am planning on removing the board and replacing these pins but in the process discovered that the plastic housing is bad as well. I looked on pinwiki for some information and found this picture and wanted to see if anyone has seen this style of connector. It seems a little cleaner and allows for doubling back the wire. Just curious what everyone thinks of this style of connector. Thanks!

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#20 6 years ago

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MJW

Pinside member

Not sure on that one. Sorry. Hopefully someone else chimes in..

#21 6 years ago

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MJW

Pinside member

I think that is the original style IDC connector. If so I think you need special tool. Most people say they are not as good a connection as the style I recommended previously.

#22 6 years ago

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jmiller1976

Inactive member

Gotcha.....Was just curious so I thought I would ask. Thanks for the information MJW!

#23 6 years ago

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MJW

Pinside member

No problem . Hope it works out . Please post when done if you choose to.

#24 6 years ago

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jmiller1976

Inactive member

Will do. I had to order some more supplies so it may be towards the end of the week.

1 week later

#25 6 years ago

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jmiller1976

Inactive member

Hey Guys - So I replaced the pins and re-did all of the wires going into the J115 slot and have lost additional lighting on the back glass and on some of the play field. Below are pictures that show what is not working. I can get half of the back glass lighting to come on when I unplug the connector but only briefly. Any thoughts one where I should start looking or testing? Thanks!

IMG_1357 (resized).JPG

IMG_1358 (resized).JPG

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#26 6 years ago

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MJW

Pinside member

That sucks. Were the lights that are now out working before you repinned the connector? So now you have more G.I . Lights out than before?

#27 6 years ago

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MJW

Pinside member

Can you check the manual to see what all connectors are used for G.I.? If you lost lighting after re pinning j -115 you would think it has to do with that connector. You did one at at a time right so none could get mixed up? Maybe the pins on the board on j-115 were damaged from heat of the connector.

#28 6 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from jmiller1976:
Any thoughts one where I should start looking or testing?

I'd pull the board and see if you lost through board continuity when you soldered on the new pins. Check continuity of each pin to a solder joint on a trace away from the repair area.

LTG : )

#29 6 years ago

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MJW

Pinside member

Most repair references recommend repinning the connector AND also the header pins on the board but I looked at your original pic and done see heat damage. If you repiinined the connector without mixing them up maybe the header pins on board need replaced. I've never seen it but some have said you can check them for cracks .

#30 6 years ago

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MJW

Pinside member

Quoted from LTG:
I'd pull the board and see if you lost through board continuity when you soldered on the new pins. Check continuity of each pin to a solder joint on a trace away from the repair area.
LTG : )

Oh I didn't know he changed pins and connector Loyd...

#31 6 years ago

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MJW

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from jmiller1976:
Hi All - I received everything to complete this repair and in the process of completing the repair discovered that the pins have separated from the board. I am planning on removing the board and replacing these pins but in the process discovered that the plastic housing is bad as well. I looked on pinwiki for some information and found this picture and wanted to see if anyone has seen this style of connector. It seems a little cleaner and allows for doubling back the wire. Just curious what everyone thinks of this style of connector. Thanks!

There it is. .... Sorry.

#32 6 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

Quoted from MJW:
There it is. .... Sorry.

No need to be sorry. We are all trying to help. Thank you for this.

LTG : )

#33 6 years ago

CAD

cottonm4

Pinside+ Addict

Wichita, KS

10y 148K 16,587 10 23

OP
Quoted from jmiller1976:
Hey Guys - So I replaced the pins and re-did all of the wires going into the J115 slot and have lost additional lighting on the back glass and on some of the play field. Below are pictures that show what is not working. I can get half of the back glass lighting to come on when I unplug the connector but only briefly. Any thoughts one where I should start looking or testing? Thanks!

Am I seeing this correctly? It looks like you have spliced and shrink-tubed a whole lot of wires. I assume that under the shrink tube you have solder joints? Yes? No?

If this is all of the work that you have done, just this connector and nothing more, and you lost half of your lights then it has to be something you did incorrectly.

If what I just said above is correct then you need to check continuity of all of your solder joints. They may have looked good when you covered them with shrink tube but looks can be deceiving.

a7cf887fa9de2c75486a2b91a023f277564a4370 (resized).jpg

#34 6 years ago

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jmiller1976

Inactive member

Sorry for the delayed response guys. So I did lose additional lights once I repinnned J115 and redid the connector. I did them one at a time and made a Y as recommended by LTG earlier in the post where there were two wires going into a slot and then one was going to the next slot. With regards to checking continuity on the pins and then the soldered joints under the shrink wrap. What point would I connect the second probe to check continuity? Thanks for all the help!~

#35 6 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from jmiller1976:
With regards to checking continuity on the pins and then the soldered joints under the shrink wrap. What point would I connect the second probe to check continuity?

One probe on a pin. Then follow the trace it is soldered to, keep following that trace. The first solder joint of some other component you find along that trace, away from the replaced pin, put the other probe there.

Easy to lose through board continuity.

LTG : )

#36 6 years ago

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jmiller1976

Inactive member

Sounds easy enough. I'll give it a try this evening and report back. Thanks for the help!!

#37 6 years ago

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wdennie

Inactive member

Canandaigua, NY

8y 37,350 1,321 17

may be dumb question, and after reading thru this, nothing is mentioned but have you check the fuses?

#38 6 years ago

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jmiller1976

Inactive member

wdennie - Not a dumb question at all and I appreciate you mentioning it. That was the first thing I checked thinking that maybe when I reconnected everything something surged. Fortunately all of the fuses are good. Thanks again!

#39 6 years ago

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wdennie

Inactive member

Canandaigua, NY

8y 37,350 1,321 17

OK then the next think I would check is whether you have voltages running thru the fuses, this would help isolate where you might be loosing your lighting from.

#40 6 years ago

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jmiller1976

Inactive member