Cat shakes head and thinks "you idiot"
(Topic ID: 254915)
Linked Games
Bad Cats
Williams, 1989
Topic Gallery
Titan rubbers are all on. Starting to get plastics installed. Need to use the heat gun for a handful of plastics. I’ll try and get some pics showing this.
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Warrenton, VA
On my old BC, I’d had used my Clarke heat gun and some wood. Slowly bending until I got the match of the old. That’s the plan again. Will see how it goes this round.
Linear target disassembly pics and assembled. One of the 5/32 E clips was subbed with a clever wire wrapped around. It worked fine. New rubber rings installed with new target, decal, and Allen 4-40 screw. New target foam installed but now shown.
The target was really close to touching the playfield so installed some #6 washers under the assembly to give some clearance. YMMV
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Quoted from JeffZee:Do you know the ring size? Mine had a pair of cut-down yellow cones. It worked so I left it as it was. The diagram it the parts manual doesn't spec the ring size...
[quoted image]
Yeah that’s frustrating they miss a bunch of parts. 3/16” ID was on this and what I replaced with.
AA6DC9A7-6555-44FF-AB70-FF5693A2D640 (resized).jpegGreat thread! I have wanted this game for 10 years. every time one is available, I am not. We had one at the auction at PATZ about 4 years ago. The auction is at the end of the show and I all ready bought 3 games. Never fails.
Your work is looking great. AS soon as I get the yard and buildings ready for winter, I am going to set up to do my amazing spiderman. The last couple pf install threads have been so good, and you make it look so easy. I should be able to rock one out on a friday night. Right? Ha, just kidding.
I love the way all your metal looks so clean. Looks much better than one right out of the box (stern game)
Do you keep track of your hours to do just the pf?
Question: what are some of the tools that you have learned are super valuable to have for a pf swap? Stuff that you wouldn't have around otherwise. Also where did you get your little drill bit stop as well as your orange handle counter sink tool?
Thanks again for taking the time to show the details
Some pics of original plastics showing the spacers, screws, brackets, etc. so I know what goes where after tumbling, ultrasonic, cleaning, and riveting.
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Harnesses are in place with solenoid completed other than the two drop target bank assemblies. Waiting on new drop targets seeing we had one broken before installing.
Lamp harness installed other than the few at the back due to the rotisserie in the way. Comet LED’s were ordered. Going with the 2smd warm white for GI and color matching inserts with non ghosting. Yellow and orange inserts get warm white while the white inserts will get cool whites. I owe Gerry a flasher bulb count yet. Will get that soon...
Switch harness installed and new switches mostly installed. As of now, only the TOY and dog house switch haven’t been replaced yet but they will be. I reused all the sling switches as they’re in great shape and came clean with Mother’s Mag and Aluminum Polish. This is my go to metal polish.
New pop spoons installed. One was taped together but was holding together. Impressive!
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Get yourself a good quality one is you need one. HF won’t be where you buy it. Our garage compressor isn’t the best however it’s held up ok for a CH. It’s an 80 gallon 2 stage which, even in a little home garage, is overkill but don’t like to run out of air. I picked it up at HD in 2006. It’s held up with only oil changes and leaking plastic oil sight glass and o ring over the 13 years.
5E81C657-8478-43A7-9AB6-8AC90D1FDD46 (resized).jpeg8D09780B-9571-422C-847E-75A6F585A699 (resized).jpegQuoted from kruzman:Great thread! I have wanted this game for 10 years. every time one is available, I am not. We had one at the auction at PATZ about 4 years ago. The auction is at the end of the show and I all ready bought 3 games. Never fails.
Your work is looking great. AS soon as I get the yard and buildings ready for winter, I am going to set up to do my amazing spiderman. The last couple pf install threads have been so good, and you make it look so easy. I should be able to rock one out on a friday night. Right? Ha, just kidding.
I love the way all your metal looks so clean. Looks much better than one right out of the box (stern game)
Do you keep track of your hours to do just the pf?
This is an elusive machine! Thanks it’s fun and really not bad to do them. It helps when you’ve done the same title before. Once you have rhythm, it goes smooth. I wonder how you do what you do! That’s talent. This is mostly parts swapping.
I don’t keep track of hours but I should. Varies greatly by title and what else is being done.
Quoted from Crash:Great pictures. Do you mind uploading them to the game's gallery page as shopout photos?
Yes, I’ll do that when I get some time to dedicate. I have a manual and planning to scan some of the mechs pages too that aren’t available online anywhere.
Quoted from kruzman:Question: what are some of the tools that you have learned are super valuable to have for a pf swap? Stuff that you wouldn't have around otherwise. Also where did you get your little drill bit stop as well as your orange handle counter sink tool?
Thanks again for taking the time to show the details
There’s a handful of tools that are really helpful and are always part of any swap. Besides the usual nut drivers and wrenches, see below pictures that I always pull out to start a swap.
The hand countersink took I got from a pinball parts place; forget where. Drill bit stop was from Amazon. It was a small set. Both of these were picked up a few years ago.
A small pick is really useful for picking out Walnut shells and for lining up nut and holding against a stud to line up to get threaded on. It also helps for E and hairpin clip removing. Small needle nose pliers for tweaking switches, bending diodes, etc. Your kit for prepping before running any screws into the playfield. I use the metal drill gauge ALL THE TIME. Small measuring device as you will always need to measure something like a stripped screw length to order more because that’s the one size you don’t have lol.
I use a small cordless DeWalt for more removal than install. But I use another cordless drill for drilling just to keep swapping bits down. Small snips are great for trimming wire, diodes, or just a quick clean cut. Switch adjusting tool in various angles is a necessity to set switches up.
The rest is normal tools like 6 in 1, stubby 2 in 1, some deep well and regular sockets in the common sizes. I prefer to hand tighten vs drill. Too many broken screws or studs. #1 and #0 Phillips screwdrivers are used quite a bit.
Hope this helps!
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Thought this was pretty cool. I never noticed this on mine. Has Spyderturbo007 seen this? Pretty cool.
CAF12856-8425-4B06-90AC-4ACCDA83AC5C (resized).jpeg79773E61-FCF6-4665-B36C-7062A2F52FF2 (resized).jpeg102AF307-13B3-4DDC-BECC-033274A6B166 (resized).jpeg855F8F40-ABE7-4B1F-8142-BC57B29F90DA (resized).jpeg440562E0-5F43-4FC9-8D57-9EADBE551646 (resized).jpegBent plastics are bent. It’s still a pucker moment taking a heat gun to a new plastic. At least you can get them easily now. The other ones I had to get from France as the original recent CPR run.
There’s four total. Easiest is the little one used on the large wireform ramp. The most difficult is the dog house roof as there’s two bends. The birdcage isn’t too bad. The large dog plastic isn’t bad other than it’s a larger size to work with.
My method is by no means the best or right way but it works for me. It doesn’t get a really sharp defined bend like they come new but it doesn’t seem to affect the look. I’m thinking heating up a pair of duct benders would be a good method to test but would be hard for one person.
So used a pair of duck bill vice grips held in my vice. Vice grips are set just a bit loose so you slide plastic in and out as needed. I use my heat gun on low setting a few inches away and gently putting force down. After a few seconds (15-30) the plastic gets limp like a noodle in the area of heat. The trick is to make one smooth gentle bend. It’s fairly easy and you can do with you hands. You can bring heat back on to it if it gets soft (TWSS) and it doesn’t seem to affect it. Even after cool down you can come back to re-bend. Tried to get pics while bending but it’s pretty tricky as is being careful not to melt it.
I removed the backing and top protective film. It may be ok to leave them on but don’t want to risk flogging up the plastics. Brackets are being tumbled before riveting. I’m using rivets where they need to be but using screws/nuts on some to make future servicing easier.
A911936B-B8E2-42F7-8479-E6B3ECF936FA (resized).jpeg92459BCE-ADC6-4559-9917-729B88F08C86 (resized).jpegA191F8C1-6918-4B5F-9ED1-B70835D40359 (resized).jpegA1E8D19C-464B-41AD-8842-DCFC590AEC84 (resized).jpegC8698A5E-F1CB-4B55-A2B8-CCB312364C56 (resized).jpeg018FD214-D15C-4699-8451-4C5C6A774247 (resized).jpeg184D4C05-47BF-49D5-9C19-4AEE688ABB17 (resized).jpegQuoted from Crash:Great pictures. Do you mind uploading them to the game's gallery page as shopout photos?
Ok, all 334 photos so far have been uploaded to the gallery page.
Grimmenstein
Correction on plastics needing bent. I forgot about the RALFIE gable! Was apparent quickly when I tried to install. Same menthols to bend and did warm it all up to get a perfect fit when installed.
Fishbowl ramp and ramp entry switch is fitted/adjusted. Note I did have to slightly open up the holes on the wireform ramp to fit into the riveted metal part of the seafood ramp. Have had to do this on other machines. Maybe will save someone some steps.
What’s left:
New drop targets will be here late this week; install
Install LED’s late this week
Install Tiger Ramp
Install flipper lane guides and plastics when they come in (droopy flipper included)
Install rear parts not installed due to rotisserie
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What color LED’s are you putting for the “5” and “8” around the seafood wheel? I just matched those with their opposite as I thought it was weird those were the only two where inserts were different than the color next to it
Here’s the switch count: 11 with one new trough.
Drop targets assemblies are now installed. The dimples were off especially on the 3 bank but you should eyeball this anyway before cinching down. Adjusted/dimpled/screwed to look in line from top.
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That would be a question for robin I don’t have anywhere to upload other than here.
Comet order showed up today along with some LED’s that came from Gerry. LED’s now installed so the rest of the parts are fitted and should be final. I used a double headed 44 WW for Ralfie’s dog house. Curious to see how it looks. A 44 red flex lights up the saucer eject.
Soldered the drop targets and pop bumper lighting. Used some terminal strips to make (hopefully no) future wire lamp holders easier for replacement.
Used some wire loom to cover the spliced seafood motor wires. It may not be 1989 correct but B/W did use this in the mid 90’s.
Chromed shooter lane bracket from Chris at HRA for a little extra class.
I have to double check switches and test all the lighting. Other than flipper lane guides it would be wrapped up this weekend.
Here’s progress as of today:
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You have to re-rivit back on the switches and flash lamp sockets?
Quoted from Blackbeard:Dumb question : with the new ramps, so
You have to re-rivit back on the switches and flash lamp sockets?
Yup
Quoted from Blackbeard:Dumb question : with the new ramps, so
You have to re-rivit back on the switches and flash lamp sockets?
That’s the reason I haven’t purchased new ramps. Dmacy did my Bad Cats awhile back before new ramps were available. There isn’t really anything wrong with mine, but they aren’t perfect like the rest of the machine.
Most people that see my Bad Cats think it’s a new machine.
Quoted from Blackbeard:Dumb question : with the new ramps, so
You have to re-rivit back on the switches and flash lamp sockets?
Originals flash lamps are riveted. I could but choose not to rivet some things like this for easy replacement. Yep, screw and nut works fine. The switch brackets are already riveted on new ramps. So it’s no big deal on a ramp swap.
Been to western Pa and back today but did test the GI and inserts. All working! I used two CW 2SMD for the GI Jackpot decal that lights under fishbowl ramp. It’s bright but looks to be the best color to go with with the dark decal there. Hard to tell out if cabinet not in gameplay but we will change if he wants to.
The double headed 44 warm white insert for Ralfie came out good. Hard to photograph but should be more noticeable in game play.
All the inserts came out how intended. Few pics showing how they look on “film”
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Thanks Jenniebear. Good question. I use Vid’s method here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers#post-485893
In this title the plastic hides two of them. In other titles I’d recommend the use of the various LED rings offered which would also hide it. If you’re a purist incandescent person, you May want to go with the tin style. They break so easily that I try to steer clear as replacing isn’t easy.
HTH!
Quoted from Jenniebear:With the stern style lamp sockets in the pop bumpers how did you get them to stay centered?
Try these.
https://www.pinballlife.com/pop-bumper-lamp-centering-ring.html
Quoted from DumbAss:Try these.
That's exactly what I bought. Put the zip ties on them like Vid suggested. When I replaced the sockets in my Jackbot. It worked for months and one day the bulbs started to move around when the pops would go off. Drove me crazy, so now I have the centering rings. Money well spent!
The original lane guides with new plastics are installed until the new ones come.
Switches tested with a ball and look to be good. Had to tweak the right outlane to be slightly more sensitive. I personally use a small magnet with a new pinball rolling the ball slowly several times both directions (and side to side if it’s wide) to test they’re working.
The playfield is mostly wrapped up until we have the cabinet to test. Karolina approves.
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