I wonder why they made some back box orange and some black? Luckily I got one that’s black cause while I may be a little biased, I think it helps balance out all the orange.

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Are you certain yours has decals on it? Mine is silk screen so it’s painted on there and it’s not a decal. Mine has stayed it’s regular orange without fading. Accidentally added a pic of BOP can’t figure out how to delete

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I guess I got lucky, mine is painted head and cabinet. So many different combinations on this machine.

^ If it’s still orange or if it’s yellow. Mine also has a few chips on it that make it easy to tell it’s paint.

Are you leaving the inside black? I know some were made with black but many were orange on the inside of the cab. I guess it all comes down to preference but I guess I’m used to black inside of back box with solid orange cab.

Now I’m not standing next to my machine or anything but that looks like a match

I’ll have some of what he’s smoking. “And for $300 I’ll include new decals!” And for 400-500 you can get it shipped to you! I would have thought with that extra 10k over what it’s worth he’d be able to have new decals and shipping included!

I’d say those colors are actually a pretty good match, here’s mine which was a silkscreened example, definitely seen better days but nothing horrible on it and colors stayed the same

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So my linear target has been inoperative for as long as I can remember and I kept telling myself it was probably just a dirty opto. Well I have exciting news. Yesterday I was playing it and I hit the target and out of no where the fish bone us target lit. It only went to 25k but that means it is still functioning and I have to suck it up and take those ramps out to get at it. Even though it wasn’t working “right” it felt really exciting to have it light up lol

Does anyone else seafood wheel award extra ball what seems like way too often? I checked my adjustments menu and extra ball was originally set at 33% I changed it down to 10%. Still seems to award extra ball 9/10 times

Ah I see, it just seemed weird to me because it has essentially the same awards as BoP small wheel and on BoP that stingy thing almost never gives me extra ball, that one like to light jackpot and 50k lol

Blackbeard I have the manual which I believe has all that info in it, I can send you a picture if you’d like?

I think this covers it edit or maybe not. Maybe the online version is missing a page because I don’t see the plastic posts referenced.
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Be careful not to flip that switch, unless you want a fried cat topper!

I tried to get my cat to stand on top of Bad Cats. She kinda sniffed it when I put her up there but then ran away as soon as I started a game instead of chasing the ball

I think that price is about right. Yours is a little nicer than mine and I’d probably list mine for 3000-3200
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Mines about to get a full topside tear down and deep clean to help with the dirt. Does anyone know where I can get a seafood wheel clear cover piece? Mines a little hazy after cleaning
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Could be a bad NVRAM. I’ve seen plenty of story’s of rottendog boards that were bad right out of the box

I think a metallic red might look good on it

On it!

Is it so bad it needs replaced? It’s far cheaper to order components and clean and swap than it is to get a new MPU board for a system 11

He’s talking more so about bang for buck. WCS is worth what it is because of the features and WPC operating system. Bad Cats is worth what it is not because of outstanding gameplay. It’s because it has neat artwork, fun music, and is on the rarer side for system 11 games.

Get a new opto anyways. On my Whirlwind single drop target, it looked to be working perfectly fine in test mode but wouldn’t do anything during gameplay. Replaced the opto and it’s working flawless now.

Post a picture of your shooter lane. Never ever has this happened to me. I would think either your plastic is warped or you have too strong of a spring on.

I wouldn’t. It’s easily the game with the least going on in my collection, but the combo of sound effects, music, fun, and the fact I was playing the same machine as a child at a family friends which is where I got it from make it a permanent no sell for me.

Does your game have LED displays? That fuse is for the high voltage line for the plasma displays and if the game no longer has the plasma, people often remove the fuse to prevent sending 100+ volts to a 5V display and blowing it up.

When I say blow them up, I mean if someone were to mistakenly connect the display to the high voltage circuit via the now unused connector.

Here’s mine. Not the best pic specifically of the glass but I’m not home atm. What’s odd is in the pic where the game is off, I can’t see the brick lines if I zoom in, however, when the lights are on, they are clearly visible.
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I did the same thing mentioned, but used cool white for the GI. I like the crisp look of cool white with the exception of only a few color tones where I use warm or sunlight. Here’s what some of mine look like. I have a few games in sunlight and warm as well that I can photograph later if you’d like to have a side by side comparison. I actually have warm, cold, and sunlight directly next to each other in the lineup.

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You pull them straight out just like any other 555 bulb.

The rebuild advice is correct. While those linkages may hold the old bats just fine, you likely (definitely) have excessive wear between the plunger and coil stop bracket that you can’t see without taking it apart and comparing to a new part. You likely also have excessive slop between the mechanical linkages causing a less than optimal flipping experience. Completely up to you to do it or not, but your game currently is definitely not playing at its best with worn flipper assemblies (which are more than just the bats)

Usually on boards like this the rubber grommets are sold separate. Go put any opto board in the cart and they usually pop up under related items

Is it shorted to one of the flash lamps in the wheel? The regular number lamps should definitely not be getting voltage that high

I’d be more worried about the 5 bank targets over the linear target. Linear is fairly simple and could
Probably be remade with moderate amount of effort. That 5 bank though if you’re missing everything is not only difficult to find, but if you do, it’ll be expensive!

I’ve seen the 5 bank opto board, but not the mounting bracket!

Mine is at my parents house, but mine has the screened cabinet and head with black paint inside head but orange on inside of cab. Definitely has ? And curiosity spin