This is no fading GI effect in this game. There is a backbox GI relay board and a playfield GI relay board that will turn off/on the GI lamps. Usually are just 2 reasons for not going to LEDs. 1. Owner liked the looks of the original bulbs 2. People tend not to change the GI because all the plastics and ramps have to be removed to get to all the GI bulbs. Since the CPR playfield was installed, I would say it is because of the first reason.

Personally speaking, I don't like LED flashers because they are just too damn bright. Odd, because I like me some bright cool white GI in this title.

Congrats on your purchase!!

I expect that it is best to keep bulbs for the flame effects for the candle and grill. Mine still has all lamps but may eventually end up going LED for the inserts. I've done color matched inserts on other games with good results. I tend to stay away from super bright LEDs as those are usually annoyingly too bright. I've used those but sparingly.

Another good option if you do convert to LED and still want a cool effect for the candle and grill are fire bulbs from Comet. They have a twinkling effect that looks great for fire, electricity and lightning effects. They come in red and blue. I use them alot for effect under certain plastics and in backboxes, like the lightning in TAF and Fish Tales translites, and EATPM for the grill and flaming hot dog. Cool effect!

Those are definitely great LED's and I used some behind a Meteor backglass under the rocket exhaust. They work great when powered all the time but I'm not sure how those would work when the MPU is trying to control the flickering on top of that. Won't hurt to try it.

Good point. I hadn’t thought about that. When the game wants to control the gradual strobe effect of the original bulbs, the fire bulbs might not work fully.

If anyone is doing / or has done a playfield swap and is interesting in selling their old (any condition) playfield with whatever bits and bobs might be left on it let me know.

My Cats is coming along!

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That's one nice looking cat

Looking great! Quick question for you. On the CPR field you got - how flush is the seafood wheel insert? Mine seems good on one side but along the top the lip seems larger that it should be and I feel like it would chip over time.

Like seeing your progress! Keep up the good work!

Chris

Hey Chris-

I’m doing the swap for pinkitten, so will answer about the seafood wheel insert.

It’s pretty flush, although slightly recessed. There is a spot at the top left that is just *ever-so-slightly* lower. But it won’t be noticeable to the ball.

Since that piece is screwed in, you could take it out and add shims if needed.

Glad to know it’s mostly flush! I didn’t notice any significant separation or raised edges on the new pf. I don’t know if that’s a common issue on these.

the cpr playfield comes with 'sponge" washers so that you can adjust the height of the window without having to add shims.....

Anyone near Winston Salem NC need a backglass for bad cats? I bought a new CPR one and don’t need this one. Someone put Mylar on the back in a area to keep it from flaking instead of using triple thick. Looks good in the game anyway. Prefer not to ship Incase it’s break. Giving it away for free to help someone in need.

Jason

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jetmechinnc Would you care to post pics of the CPR glass? They don't have any on their own site and haven't acknowledged my asks for same. I take it you're pleased with it?

Your OEM looks way better than the one in the game my girls and I restored... but yeah, I get the shipping thing. If you're headed this way for some reason, or perhaps ATL at the end of the month, let me know

I’m cleaning up a Bad Cats for a friend and have a couple of questions:

The pop bumper under the wire ramp, is it supposed to have a cap? Photos I’ve seen online show it with no cap. On this game, someone added a flat plastic to it. Which one is correct?

The metal plate holding the motors for the back animation has some severe rust (acid damage?) which might have killed the stepped motor for the spinning cat. It also has damaged the artwork for that insert. Are either of these sold? I did not see them on the Marco site.

Thanks

Alberto

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Here two picks of the CPR one with and one without the lights on. I’m happy with it. The mirror effect is better on the original, but the colors seem to pop more and are crisp on the new one.

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Mine has the flat plastic with the cat’s face on it like yours.
You can see it has the same plastic on the promo flyer for this game as well.

No cap...no bulb either. (I installed a bulb in mine...just tied it to the other pop bumpers).

Thanks! I agree that looks sharp, even when lit, though I was afraid / not surprised that the mirroring is not up to OEM snuff. Is it honestly mirrored and maybe just "dull", or is it more like silver paint? CPR specifically highlighted "mirrored" but I have to say in your photo, everything looks flat like paint.

Not like I can be choosy, but I just need to decide what's more important. I don't bother saying this often but with regards to your original glass I wish you were closer haha. If you are willing to try shipping let me know what it would cost? I know what repro houses charge, and for packing maybe a UPS store could quote and insure?

(posting two photos to compare OEM mirroring effect which is really quite nice, since it's all over the art. My glass has missing paint below BBQ grill, over "A", and over left roof)
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It is mirrored. But seems dull compared to the original. The mirror effect I had on my Addams family and twilight zone backglass seemed better. Or maybe it was because it was small areas and not the large area like on bad cats. Or maybe this was so yesterday production and they have gotten better at it.

I emailed CPR about it but never received a response about the mirror effect. Still happy with purchase though. My wife thinks it looks good and vibrant.

Different mirroring process !
And your correct originals look better!

I’m not charging for the glass. I just figured I’d help someone out in need since I’m not using it.

It’s almost there! DJblouw does excellent work! Next is the cabinet…

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After my post, I've been offered (and accepted) a nice NOS/OEM glass more local to me so if there is any "dibs queue" building for this generous freebie, I relinquish my spot in line

Anyone need these?

SOLD!

Parts - For Sale

FS: New Bad Cats slingshot plastics Archived

New (selling multiple, business) - “Selling one pair, left & right, Bad Cats slingshot plastics. These are new from CPR and still have the protective film on them. $31.00 USD including shipping within the Conti...”

2022-06-30

Jarrettsville, MD

Alan_L

31 (Firm)

Archived after: 19 days

Viewed: 87 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

My old backglass is on its long drive to Kansas! Hope it is a nice improvement to your game! Enjoy.

I have an issue with my BadCats.

When my seafood spinners spins...it only makes about a quarter turn, then suddenly stops.

Any advice as to what to look for?

Been a few years, but I had that same issue with mine when I rebuilt the whole game from an unknown project status. I replaced the motor first but it ultimately turned out to be one (or more) of the ICs on the controller board, d'oh.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/im-taking-my-kids-down-with-me-by-resurrecting-bad-cats/page/2#post-4473672

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stepper-motor-woes-getting-stuck-every-5th-pulse

I hope that helps. I think I ended up shotgunning everything in that wheel but as I said, I really didn't know anything about what worked or didn't when I got the game, it was a complete mess.

Thanks for the respose. Is this the motor that you bought?...

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-stepper-motor.html

Unless they've changed it since then, that's probably the one. IIRC PBL's game list / cross ref was incomplete when I googled before purchase, but it's not like there were many others to choose from

To be honest after that whole circus I think I put the OEM motor back in, and it's been working fine. I found a clean/nice stepper in my parts bin the other day and I know I didn't need one for anything else.

I talked to Doug at PBL....That is NOT the correct motor. That motor is a 12 volt. I need the 6 volt stepper motor: P/N 14-7948

Verify the wiring going into the stepper motor first. There’s 4 conductors if those are pinned wrong or lose connection the stepper can rotate slowly, stop or judder. Run the motor test diagnostic. There’s a few trouble shooting steps that may point to a bad opto on the control board. I had both a bad opto and a mix wired motor on mine.

The clear plastic protecting the spinning disc on the middle of the playfield is held in place with 4 screws and 4 4-40 tee nuts. The game I’m shopping out is missing one of these tee-nuts.

I searched online and found them in packs of 50 or 100. Does anyone have a single one or two of them they would be willing to sell to me?

Regards

Alberto

I bought bulk a while ago. Let me check when I get home tonight. I know I got 6-32 and 8-32 but I don't remember if I got 4-40. If I have some I'll let you know.

Chris

Fixing the seafood wheel on Bad Cats was a lot easier than expected. I had a broken wire on one of the connectors. Visibly, everything looked fine. I gave each wire a little tug...sure enough, one came right off. I replaced the unreliable IDC connector with a Molex connector.

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You are most welcome. Thankful the glass made the trip from North Carolina to Kansas. Always happy to help the hobby when I can.

Almost done bringing back my buddy’s Bad Cats and now the linear target has decided to stop working. I saw it register hits the first game I played and has done nothing since.

The switch edge test did not respond to that switch.

Any advice on how to go by debugging this issue?

Thanks

Alberto

Is there a way to test the operation of the opto with a voltmeter? Right now based on the edge test I would say the opto does not work.

Alberto

I would check for mechanical issues first. When you push the target does the shaft turn the encoder wheel? That is often a problem. If that is working then check for cold or cracked solder connections or a wire that is broken loose.

** Disregard this, found the schematic **

If available, can someone post the schematic for the Linear Target opto board?

Yes, mechanically the unit is working. When the target is pushed in, the encoder wheel turns. Initially it did not because the rubber pieces were rotted out, that has all been cleaned and replaced.

What I need to check next is if the opto actually responds to an input.

Alberto

So I'm a huge Bad Cats fan ever since I first played it back in 1989. Wanted to join this thread, even though I don't own one. I would sure love to if anyone hears of one popping up for a halfway decent price I'm all ears. I remember not even that long ago, telling people how great this game is, and used to be a struggle. People thought it was too simplistic it was a hidden gem. Now however, especially after MOP auction the prices have gone insane. I will also be willing to buy just even a back glass or something if anyone's got a spare they want to sell to one baaad cat. I just wanna be in the BC owners club so bad. Meow, meow, meow!

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/133816

There is one for sale