Quoted from hawkeyexx:Contact starship fantasy they make replacement ramps and decals.
https://www.starship-fantasy.com
Thanx for the info - but I think they won’t let me have a scan of it. So if somebody could help with a scan this would be great!
Quoted from hawkeyexx:Contact starship fantasy they make replacement ramps and decals.
https://www.starship-fantasy.com
Thanx for the info - but I think they won’t let me have a scan of it. So if somebody could help with a scan this would be great!
Listing as soon as I get pictures taken, Bad Cats with CPR Gold playfield, new ramps and plastics. Has original orange painted cabinet with black powder coated armor. $4800.
Would anybody know why the ball gets stuck between where the metal meets the flipper when going through the in-lane?
Quoted from wackenhut:Would anybody know why the ball gets stuck between where the metal meets the flipper when going through the in-lane?
Please take a photo......Thanks
Quoted from RustyLizard:Listing as soon as I get pictures taken, Bad Cats with CPR Gold playfield, new ramps and plastics. Has original orange painted cabinet with black powder coated armor. $4800.
Really sweet deal here.
Beater bad cats are 3k. Add in costs for pf, ramps, and plastics.. THEN the labor to install it. 48 is good.
Quoted from Blackbeard:Really sweet deal here.
Beater bad cats are 3k. Add in costs for pf, ramps, and plastics.. THEN the labor to install it. 48 is good.
I paid up to get it. Someone will be happy.
Quoted from wackenhut:Was the original orange cabinet decaled or something else? Does not look like a decal.
Original cabs came stenciled
And later decaled decals fade most That faded to yellow are decal. I prefer stenciled cab if in good condition. Not a fan of the replacement decals the look too brownish orange! Those rad cals look great though!
Quoted from Blackbeard:Really sweet deal here.
Beater bad cats are 3k. Add in costs for pf, ramps, and plastics.. THEN the labor to install it. 48 is good.
These are the comments that let me know the end is near! Calling a 33 year old pin for the price of a 1 year old pin a "really sweet deal" is screaming there's an imbalance in the marketplace. Like old muscle cars (or Tesla stock), at what point does the price cap out? $6k? $10k? $20k?
Understand this isn't commentary on your comment exactly, but on the constantly increasing value of pins that are 20-35 years old. We're paying more and more for "want" vs substance. You like BC, I like BC. But do we value a "near new" condition BC as much as a similar condition current pin? The answer, according to the market, is yes!
I am trying to upgrade my playfield lighting, what do you guys recommend? I went to coin taker and they had the following options:
LED Kit with Premium Non-Ghosting LEDs - Premium Frosted
LED Kit with Premium Non-Ghosting LEDs - Premium Super
LED Kit w Super LEDs
LED Kit w Frosted LEDs
Not sure if I want to do the whole kit, any must haves besides the playfield lighting?
Quoted from arcyallen:These are the comments that let me know the end is near! Calling a 33 year old pin for the price of a 1 year old pin a "really sweet deal" is screaming there's an imbalance in the marketplace. Like old muscle cars (or Tesla stock), at what point does the price cap out? $6k? $10k? $20k?
Understand this isn't commentary on your comment exactly, but on the constantly increasing value of pins that are 20-35 years old. We're paying more and more for "want" vs substance. You like BC, I like BC. But do we value a "near new" condition BC as much as a similar condition current pin? The answer, according to the market, is yes!
Rare classic system 11. That’s what commands the price.
I own one that I restored. And I find it a snooze fest.
Quoted from Blackbeard:Rare classic system 11. That’s what commands the price.
I own one that I restored. And I find it a snooze fest.
Play better!
Quoted from wackenhut:Does anyone have any pictures on how they did their back box lighting with LED’s?
I really enjoy the trial and error of game lighting, especially back boxes and although there are endless ways to light a game up, I found that Bad Cats back glass with its detailed and varied color schemes was best illuminated with cool white LED 44's (also depends on your preferences during lit or darkened room game play). The only exceptions in my BC back box were:
- For the barbecue and the mouse roasting candle I used incandescent 44's to give a more realistic flickering yellowish flame;
- For Python's head I found an incandescent 44 gave a more natural flesh tone;
- For the shed insert light (behind, at the top) I used a blue frosted 555 LED.
- And for the jackpot lighting I colour matched the individual boxes with frosted 555 LEDs.
So I am looking to change the bulbs and rubbers under the fishbowl ramp at the top center under the collect jackpot decal. Does the whole ramp need to come off it order to do that? Looks like a pain.
Quoted from wackenhut:So I am looking to change the bulbs and rubbers under the fishbowl ramp at the top center under the collect jackpot decal. Does the whole ramp need to come off it order to do that? Looks like a pain.
Yes you will need to remove the ramp to gain access to the bulbs....Take photos during disassembly
Okay, my one concern is the black sensor/switch that is towards the top right of the ramp. It looks like there are two screws from the underside to attach it to the ramp. How do you get to these screws? Is it necessary to remove this?
I believe that switch disconnects from underneath Pf.
I also recall one ramp having to come off before the other. But I can’t remember the order.
Yes, it's a necessary pain removing the ramp to get at those bulbs and rubber (I got good at it!! ) Depending on the task, once unanchored the fishbowl ramp can be carefully pulled away (towards the back box) from the wire ramp join without disassembling and removing the wire ramp.
Try and think of anything else you want to do while you have things disassembled, like installing a bulb and fixture in the cat bumper (fairly easy); polishing up or adjusting the ball gate; changing other nearby GI bulbs; adjusting / cleaning nearby plastics / playfield areas and don't forget to put...everything...back before putting the ramps back on! Me double on that one!
Quoted from Blackbeard:Rare classic system 11. That’s what commands the price.
I own one that I restored. And I find it a snooze fest.
amen to that, what a turd.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:amen to that, what a turd.
totally.
It's a gorgeous pin to look at, but that's it. Borrrrring.
Does anyone have a manual or have the sling part numbers? Assembly is B-12665 but just needing the plunger, hinge pivot and lever.
Quoted from dmacy:Does anyone have a manual or have the sling part numbers? Assembly is B-12665 but just needing the plunger, hinge pivot and lever.
This is from my Riverboat Gambler manual, but the assembly part # is the same.
Chris
There is a tapered rubber and white spacer at the right entrance to the Tiger ramp, and at the left entrances to the Fishbowl ramp and the Doghouse.
Some of the IPDB pics show the spacer on top of the tapered rubber and others have the spacer on the bottom. Which is correct?
So I ordered a rubber kit and also saw the rubber parts per the manual. Everything seems to be off. Does anyone have an actual rubber diagram and the correct size and number of rubbers/rings? So much appreciated. I just don't want to take everything off at once to do an inventory.
Thank you!
Quoted from wackenhut:So I ordered a rubber kit and also saw the rubber parts per the manual. Everything seems to be off. Does anyone have an actual rubber diagram and the correct size and number of rubbers/rings? So much appreciated. I just don't want to take everything off at once to do an inventory.
Thank you!
This is how I have done the three I’ve worked on. Not sure if it’s original but works.
91B1AA7E-02EE-43A0-86AC-25956C76B9CA (resized).jpegQuoted from Alan_L:There is a tapered rubber and white spacer at the right entrance to the Tiger ramp, and at the left entrances to the Fishbowl ramp and the Doghouse.
Some of the IPDB pics show the spacer on top of the tapered rubber and others have the spacer on the bottom. Which is correct?
Pretty sure spacer on top.
Quoted from wackenhut:What about the 4 rubber rings in the TOY lanes?
3/16” rings.
E217DB45-1E3F-4513-981F-E3A26A5A9DC8 (resized).jpegSo I guess my only other question is that there are several small ring post rubbers. Are you able to provide amounts and locations? I guess there are 3/8 OD and 7/16 OD? Why is this so confusing lol
I'll get a count of them when I have the game in front of me tonight.
Titan has a few sets but no posts either. And I've seen various uses of the taper posts or even no tapered posts to add more confusion.
https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/336
Quoted from Blackbeard:I own one that I restored. And I find it a snooze fest.
It depends on what you compare it to. Sure, with no multiball or other fancies it does not compare to latest games. But then it is over 30 years old. What feels like snooze fest for you, might be a pretty fast game for us folks that learned pinball in the 70's.
And the cat theme is just great!
Quoted from Tuukka:It depends on what you compare it to. Sure, with no multiball or other fancies it does not compare to latest games. But then it is over 30 years old. What feels like snooze fest for you, might be a pretty fast game for us folks that learned pinball in the 70's.
And the cat theme is just great!
Absolutely. It's all subjective.
I like slower pins too. Pinbot being my favorite.
Quoted from dmacy:I'll get a count of them when I have the game in front of me tonight.
Titan has a few sets but no posts either. And I've seen various uses of the taper posts or even no tapered posts to add more confusion.
https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/336
Thank you! It is so odd that the manual says 7 -- Rubber Rings - 5/16 Inch I.D.
I only see one use for that size.
Quoted from wackenhut:Thank you! It is so odd that the manual says 7 -- Rubber Rings - 5/16 Inch I.D.
I only see one use for that size.
You’re right and that’s for the post between flippers. Here’s the count:
(4) 3/16” for lane change TOY
(1) 5/16” between flippers
(6) mini post (Note:two for plastics) Personal preference for thicknesses
(9) post sleeves assuming you don’t use any tapered posts. (I’ve been using just two tapered for right side of Tiger entry and one for left Seafood entry)
I've had my Bad Cats since 2010 and have recently gone through it again. I keep track of what I do on my website. Maybe I did something someone else will find useful. If you've seen this page before, then scroll down to the 2020 part. Click...
Quoted from JeffZee:I've had my Bad Cats since 2010 and have recently gone through it again. I keep track of what I do on my website. Maybe I did something someone else will find useful. If you've seen this page before, then scroll down to the 2020 part. Click...
http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/badcats/repair/repair.html
[quoted image]
Jeff, your site was very helpful to me years ago and now again.
At the entrance to the fishbowl ramp there is a rubber to the left and to the right. I see the diagram made, says the left is 1 1/2...the right side seems longer, should this also be 1 1/2 or 2"?
Quoted from wackenhut:At the entrance to the fishbowl ramp there is a rubber to the left and to the right. I see the diagram made, says the left is 1 1/2...the right side seems longer, should this also be 1 1/2 or 2"?
I looked at my BC and the right side post to post measurement is at least a half inch longer than the left side post to post. Also the tension on the left and right rubber feels the same, so all else being equal, my way of thinking is that can only happen if the left side rubber is longer. Go with the 2".
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