Thanx for the info - but I think they won’t let me have a scan of it. So if somebody could help with a scan this would be great!

Listing as soon as I get pictures taken, Bad Cats with CPR Gold playfield, new ramps and plastics. Has original orange painted cabinet with black powder coated armor. $4800.

Would anybody know why the ball gets stuck between where the metal meets the flipper when going through the in-lane?

Please take a photo......Thanks

Really sweet deal here.

Beater bad cats are 3k. Add in costs for pf, ramps, and plastics.. THEN the labor to install it. 48 is good.

I paid up to get it. Someone will be happy.

I skipped many hours of work back in the day- back when it was new, back when
7-11 still had arcade games.

Someday- this and High Speed will be the only SS pins I might own, or not...It was my favorite.

Was the original orange cabinet decaled or something else? Does not look like a decal.

Original cabs came stenciled
And later decaled decals fade most That faded to yellow are decal. I prefer stenciled cab if in good condition. Not a fan of the replacement decals the look too brownish orange! Those rad cals look great though!

Thank you...I was looking at my cabinet and it didn't look like it was decaled. Makes sense.

These are the comments that let me know the end is near! Calling a 33 year old pin for the price of a 1 year old pin a "really sweet deal" is screaming there's an imbalance in the marketplace. Like old muscle cars (or Tesla stock), at what point does the price cap out? $6k? $10k? $20k?

Understand this isn't commentary on your comment exactly, but on the constantly increasing value of pins that are 20-35 years old. We're paying more and more for "want" vs substance. You like BC, I like BC. But do we value a "near new" condition BC as much as a similar condition current pin? The answer, according to the market, is yes!

I am trying to upgrade my playfield lighting, what do you guys recommend? I went to coin taker and they had the following options:

LED Kit with Premium Non-Ghosting LEDs - Premium Frosted
LED Kit with Premium Non-Ghosting LEDs - Premium Super
LED Kit w Super LEDs
LED Kit w Frosted LEDs

Not sure if I want to do the whole kit, any must haves besides the playfield lighting?

I recommend #44 incandescent lamps.

Rare classic system 11. That’s what commands the price.

I own one that I restored. And I find it a snooze fest.

Play better!

I’ll dust you one hand behind my back Freddy!

I would just love to find one at a reasonable price.

Does anyone have any pictures on how they did their back box lighting with LED’s?

I really enjoy the trial and error of game lighting, especially back boxes and although there are endless ways to light a game up, I found that Bad Cats back glass with its detailed and varied color schemes was best illuminated with cool white LED 44's (also depends on your preferences during lit or darkened room game play). The only exceptions in my BC back box were:

- For the barbecue and the mouse roasting candle I used incandescent 44's to give a more realistic flickering yellowish flame;
- For Python's head I found an incandescent 44 gave a more natural flesh tone;
- For the shed insert light (behind, at the top) I used a blue frosted 555 LED.
- And for the jackpot lighting I colour matched the individual boxes with frosted 555 LEDs.

1 Daytime, lit during game play (resized).JPG

2 Backboard, machine on. (resized).JPG

3 Backboard, machine off (resized).JPG

4 Shed light (resized).JPG

5 Shed light during plunger shot (resized).JPG

Sweet, are you using 1smd or 2smd cool white?

They are 2smd Comets and here's something else pretty sweet,
(just a little comparison of Python's 'Bad Kitty and the Bride'):

BOP (resized).png

Bad Kitty (resized).JPG

So I am looking to change the bulbs and rubbers under the fishbowl ramp at the top center under the collect jackpot decal. Does the whole ramp need to come off it order to do that? Looks like a pain.

Yes you will need to remove the ramp to gain access to the bulbs....Take photos during disassembly

Okay, my one concern is the black sensor/switch that is towards the top right of the ramp. It looks like there are two screws from the underside to attach it to the ramp. How do you get to these screws? Is it necessary to remove this?

I believe that switch disconnects from underneath Pf.

I also recall one ramp having to come off before the other. But I can’t remember the order.

Yes, it's a necessary pain removing the ramp to get at those bulbs and rubber (I got good at it!! ) Depending on the task, once unanchored the fishbowl ramp can be carefully pulled away (towards the back box) from the wire ramp join without disassembling and removing the wire ramp.

Try and think of anything else you want to do while you have things disassembled, like installing a bulb and fixture in the cat bumper (fairly easy); polishing up or adjusting the ball gate; changing other nearby GI bulbs; adjusting / cleaning nearby plastics / playfield areas and don't forget to put...everything...back before putting the ramps back on! Me double on that one!

amen to that, what a turd.

totally.

It's a gorgeous pin to look at, but that's it. Borrrrring.

Does anyone have a manual or have the sling part numbers? Assembly is B-12665 but just needing the plunger, hinge pivot and lever.

This is from my Riverboat Gambler manual, but the assembly part # is the same.

rg1 (resized).jpg

rg2 (resized).jpg

Chris

Awesome!!! Thank you Chris!

There is a tapered rubber and white spacer at the right entrance to the Tiger ramp, and at the left entrances to the Fishbowl ramp and the Doghouse.
Some of the IPDB pics show the spacer on top of the tapered rubber and others have the spacer on the bottom. Which is correct?

So I ordered a rubber kit and also saw the rubber parts per the manual. Everything seems to be off. Does anyone have an actual rubber diagram and the correct size and number of rubbers/rings? So much appreciated. I just don't want to take everything off at once to do an inventory.

Thank you!

This is how I have done the three I’ve worked on. Not sure if it’s original but works.

91B1AA7E-02EE-43A0-86AC-25956C76B9CA (resized).jpeg

Pretty sure spacer on top.

Mine was in the top too

What about the 4 rubber rings in the TOY lanes?

3/16” rings.

E217DB45-1E3F-4513-981F-E3A26A5A9DC8 (resized).jpeg

So I guess my only other question is that there are several small ring post rubbers. Are you able to provide amounts and locations? I guess there are 3/8 OD and 7/16 OD? Why is this so confusing lol

I'll get a count of them when I have the game in front of me tonight.

Titan has a few sets but no posts either. And I've seen various uses of the taper posts or even no tapered posts to add more confusion.

https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/336

It depends on what you compare it to. Sure, with no multiball or other fancies it does not compare to latest games. But then it is over 30 years old. What feels like snooze fest for you, might be a pretty fast game for us folks that learned pinball in the 70's.

And the cat theme is just great!

Absolutely. It's all subjective.

I like slower pins too. Pinbot being my favorite.

Thank you! It is so odd that the manual says 7 -- Rubber Rings - 5/16 Inch I.D.
I only see one use for that size.

You’re right and that’s for the post between flippers. Here’s the count:

(4) 3/16” for lane change TOY
(1) 5/16” between flippers
(6) mini post (Note:two for plastics) Personal preference for thicknesses
(9) post sleeves assuming you don’t use any tapered posts. (I’ve been using just two tapered for right side of Tiger entry and one for left Seafood entry)

Thank you so much! Appreciate people like you within this community and taking the time to help.

I've had my Bad Cats since 2010 and have recently gone through it again. I keep track of what I do on my website. Maybe I did something someone else will find useful. If you've seen this page before, then scroll down to the 2020 part. Click...

http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/badcats/repair/repair.html

shop-50 (resized).jpg

Found this inside my Pool Sharks. Poor kitty..

20201019_202742 (resized).jpg

Jeff, your site was very helpful to me years ago and now again.

At the entrance to the fishbowl ramp there is a rubber to the left and to the right. I see the diagram made, says the left is 1 1/2...the right side seems longer, should this also be 1 1/2 or 2"?

I looked at my BC and the right side post to post measurement is at least a half inch longer than the left side post to post. Also the tension on the left and right rubber feels the same, so all else being equal, my way of thinking is that can only happen if the left side rubber is longer. Go with the 2".