I was planning on creeping by your place today while I was in Midland to check up on this project, you didn’t tell me you had a build thread going, lol. Looking awesome man.
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3 weeks later
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:Have you considered an automation controller instead? My plan is to mount an iPad in the wall and run my Zwave controllers app on it. That will allow me full control of lighting and outlets.
I’ll also have voice control now that Alexa can interface with my controller.
No need to have all the outlets on switches. It’s also bad ass to be able to turn things on and off with a wall mounted iPad or voice control.
For example, when I walk into my theater, I just say “Alexa, turn on watch a movie”. It turns on the screen lights, the sconses and the step lights. When I’m ready to start the move, I just say “Alexa, turn on Start the movie” and all the lights get dimmed (except for the step lights).
You could do the same thing with the games. Walk in and say “Alexa, turn on play pinball” and all the games turn on.
If you do add any type of HA switches, be sure to run a neutral to them. 12/3 with ground.
Quoted from Chosen_S:I want to plan for this... I truly do, but I have a 4 year old, and already Alexa has been told 65 times in the last week to “play ghostbusters song”. For the time being, I need everything on a quick touch normal Switch, however, I know there are systems that will be better than a standard 15a light switch, I also have an iPad2 sitting around that I can utilize. I will look into this Zwave you speak of.
I’ve already run 12/2 Romex; it has 3 wires in it, except for the actual switch wires coming from the box, I bet those will be different, I have not run those yet, rather; my electrician hasn’t run those. (Im doing most of the work, he’s doing a very select few things)
The 12/2 gives you a power leg(Black) and your switch leg(white). With 12/3, the switch leg will be your red wire, keeping the white for your neutral. Just tell your electrician you want a neutral to your switch boxes, he will take care of it. Even if you don’t do it now, you will have a wire there if you decide to in the future.
You will need a hub like SmartThings, this will need to connect to an Ethernet inside your game room. Everything can be controlled by the app, it’s pretty good. You can still use the switches like normal too, I use the GE 14294, but these are dimming. They have regular on/off switches too, for the pin circuits. They run about $40 per switch.
1 month later
Quoted from Chosen_S:Apparently my friends share that sentiment... I asked 10 of them... all of which said “ if you ever need any help, I’ll be there”
Only 3 showed up, only 2 said they had something else to do.
I would install this metal by myself if I could, but I cannot . No worries! I’ve got at least a few good ones!
Dude, I don’t mind helping. Give me a day heads up (to work it out with the wife) and a time to meet.
8 months later
You have been working your ass off dude! Been away too long, took a while to get up to speed on this thread. Finally have some vacation time, so I’ve been able to catch up on a bunch of stuff. Your game room is looking amazing!
1 week later
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