(Topic ID: 187241)
Melbourne
Chosen_S, I actually meant the door itself, if it is like the ones down under the metal cladding will have a seam on the top of the actual door. It there is a seam, seal it with a suitable caulk, likewise seal the rose around the door handle.
Trust me I have changed dozens of metal clad doors and they are a real PIA as you can't plane them etc.
Once again looking good
Quoted from PinPatch:Chosen_S, I actually meant the door itself, if it is like the ones down under the metal cladding will have a seam on the top of the actual door. It there is a seam, seal it with a suitable caulk, likewise seal the rose around the door handle.
Trust me I have changed dozens of metal clad doors and they are a real PIA as you can't plane them etc.
Once again looking good
I think I see, I’ll look closer at it and seal it up
Bothell, WA
Quoted from Freeplay40:A little drip guard or small awning over the door would be good too!
Small awning I just need to find one
Or I’ll make something...
Or maybe nothing... there’s a 7 foot awning above the door... the other door will definitely have something
Kitchener, ON
Quoted from Luckydogg420:I’d assume that you wouldn’t have to worry that much about moisture in the desert.
I really don’t, but we get 90percent of our rainfall all in 1 week. It’s crazy... we get bad hail every 7 years. Usually it’s windy most of the time, but lately it’s been nice.
I plan to seal everything up with paint, just hadn’t thought to seal the very top of the door and the door knob, that was good advise.
Quoted from Chosen_S:Floor cleaned and put back together... check
Building wrapped... check
Bottom outside edges flashed... check
Doors installed... check
Fixed big 2nd story header top plate... check
1st floor window frame made... check
Bought 2 pins that I don’t need... check
Finished bottom cabinet of Medusa restore... check
Led’d color changing spare earthshaker playfield for overhead lighting... check
Next...
Start sections of exterior with Hardie plank
Get electrical boxes installed
Run electrical wire and conduit
Install overhead lights
Install window
Sand, level and seal 2nd story sub floor
Electrical inspection
Yup you've been busy. Nice progress.
1 week later
More done... it would get done a little faster if I would stop leaving town to go have fun
The top floor 1/2” insulated with closed cell foam and sealed with great stuff ... window on bottom floor installed
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Quoted from markp99:Was that unused header a design change, or future proofing?
I have similar in my living room wall, for a future fireplace addition, that never happened.
Yes, I Was planning on a deck outside of that, and put French doors there.
Looking good. I been working on my garage teardown/arcade conversion since June so I think you're making good progress. I've been stuck in finishing world for a couple months now, still got floor and trim to do! You've got me wanting to make a thread for it.
Quoted from radium:Looking good. I been working on my garage teardown/arcade conversion since June so I think you're making good progress. I've been stuck in finishing world for a couple months now, still got floor and trim to do! You've got me wanting to make a thread for it.
Yes do, I love these kinds of threads. I'll follow for sure.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Good no more rain getting inside. What do ya have planner for both ceilings?
Bottom floor ceiling will get the off black paint industrial treatment, top floor ceiling will get insulated and sheet rocked, and a little 80’s flair
Quoted from radium:Looking good. I been working on my garage teardown/arcade conversion since June so I think you're making good progress. I've been stuck in finishing world for a couple months now, still got floor and trim to do! You've got me wanting to make a thread for it.
Please make a thread , I love seeing what others ideas are...
I worked the backyard for 2 years, then...
Foundation was laid in July I believe, and I’ve been working on the building ever since, I think I’ll be finished by mid summer
Out of curiosity, are you planning some kind of lift to bring your machines up to the second floor, or just stairs?
Quoted from mgpasman:Out of curiosity, are you planning some kind of lift to bring your machines up to the second floor, or just stairs?
Absolutely yes... a lift is planned. Once I get a little closer to building it, I’ll put up pics and video
looking great dude!
Thanks for sharing this thread! I like being able to live vicariously through you till the day comes that I can build my new space.
Quoted from Whysnow:looking great dude!
Thanks for sharing this thread! I like being able to live vicariously through you till the day comes that I can build my new space.
Thanks a lot !
It’s getting hard to work on with the sun going down at 5:30pm, I’ll start chipping away at more soon when metal and glass arrive though
day are getting longer now
Wish I was closer and I could come lend a hand. I love these sort of projects with friends.
1 week later
I was planning on creeping by your place today while I was in Midland to check up on this project, you didn’t tell me you had a build thread going, lol. Looking awesome man.
3 weeks later
Quoted from radium:Ding ding... time for an update!
I think he gave up on the idea, it was to much for him. 
Fellas, been fighting some design issues with the framing and electrical, it’s difficult maneuvering around steel you can’t drill or cut. And I’m not an electrician, so I’m referring to my electrician over the phone about what to do with nothing visual to go off of. Time... I just need more time too. Don’t we all??
I also had a gas leak. We discovered it at Midnight Sunday , and rushed to a hotel, then spent all Monday repairing it...
The metal conduit in the box is for data; to keep static off the cat6. Started on the can lights as well, and roughing in 12/2 romex
Pics say it all
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WOW a gas leak, good you caught it. Looks like you'll have to have a drop ceiling because of the electrical.
Is that romex running through the PVC conduit in that picture? Check with your electrician about that; I don't believe NEC allows for romex to be run inside any type of conduit.
What a fantastic project, and I have been enjoying this from the beginning, but I have to ask, as I have been waiting for others to make a comment, why do your steel outside doors seem to have the door handles positioned to be locked from the outside, are you trying to keep everyone locked in? Most outdoor entrance and exit doors, (per code) are installed to open out, and not having to be pulled in to exit...
I am sure there might be a reason....again, great project and we are all enjoying all of the work you are putting into this......
Quoted from Mike_M:Is that romex running through the PVC conduit in that picture? Check with your electrician about that; I don't believe NEC allows for romex to be run inside any type of conduit.
From what I read in code and gather from around the internet, you are correct; in all wet environments, I believe there’s a bit of gray area when it comes to dry environments (which is where I’m working). Heat and space in the conduit becomes the only issues, so I’ll be digging in further to see what is allowed, as far as I read; the 1 foot of conduit Im in so far will not be enough to gather heat, but, the space that the romex is in may be constraining, so I may be changing a few things in that specific route.
Quoted from TheMickster:What a fantastic project, and I have been enjoying this from the beginning, but I have to ask, as I have been waiting for others to make a comment, why do your steel outside doors seem to have the door handles positioned to be locked from the outside, are you trying to keep everyone locked in? Most outdoor entrance and exit doors, (per code) are installed to open out, and not having to be pulled in to exit...
I am sure there might be a reason....again, great project and we are all enjoying all of the work you are putting into this......
Hey thanks!
The door handles have been recently turned around. I was unaware of actual door opening egress codes, but for the record, there will be a set of doors that will open toward the outside. And strange how all of the doors on my house open toward the inside. I will be looking into this as well.
Quoted from MustangPaul:WOW a gas leak, good you caught it. Looks like you'll have to have a drop ceiling because of the electrical.
The ceiling will stay exposed, however I’ll be following all conduit guidelines to keep electrical lines hidden and keeping the industrial feel.
Yes, we are so glad we found the gas leak. We’ve been searching for weeks, no meters or outside guests could smell it, my closet door was closed for the weekend, when it is usually constantly opened, the gas collected enough for us to finally detect it, it was really just a happen stance.
My current home, and every home I have ever lived in, the doors open inward. Maybe outward is commercial code?
Quoted from DennisDodel:My current home, and every home I have ever lived in, the doors open inward. Maybe outward is commercial code?
I just read stuff for about 30 minutes on the difference, yes, my findings are that commercial exit doors need to open to the public, but residential it doesn’t matter, as long as the “1 required exit” landings are proper and clear of obstruction (depending on the size of residence and occupancy load)
So awesome that you’re taking this all on yourself!
I myself have zero experience other than helping my step dad out with some small remodeling projects but maybe someday.
An idea on lighting... it looked like you ate going through the trouble of bolting the can lights to the beams... i was wondering why not run something else along the beams to makr that eaiser... but of course you mentioning having an open ceiling makes sense not to since you probably want it looking clean... But right now I thought... why be rigid with your lighting? It might be cool to just run switched outlets up there then have 1-1/2” (I think maybe larger) tubing running along and attach PAR lights with o-clamp hangers. They would look kinda industrial / soundstageish and you could reposition and re-angle at will.
The o-clamps are pretty versatile as well... you can hang small speakers, projectors, etc.
For putting wire in conduit I think modern THHN wire is what is preferred... no idea if Romex is allowed but would be interesting to know.
I need some help on switches for everything
So far the plan is:
Floor 1:
3 switches for lighting
5 switches for games
(each switch is on a 20amp breaker, no more than 4-5 games on each switch).
Also a copy of light switches from floor 2 (3 way switches to be able to control ALL lights from floor 1)
Floor 2:
2 switches for lighting
5 switches for games
I’m not sure what type of light switches to use, I would like to use smart switches for the lighting that are also dimmable. And for the games I would like to be able to use some sort of security switch, like a covered rocker or something. But I’m not sure what to do
Any help?
Have you considered an automation controller instead? My plan is to mount an iPad in the wall and run my Zwave controllers app on it. That will allow me full control of lighting and outlets.
I’ll also have voice control now that Alexa can interface with my controller.
No need to have all the outlets on switches. It’s also bad ass to be able to turn things on and off with a wall mounted iPad or voice control. 
For example, when I walk into my theater, I just say “Alexa, turn on watch a movie”. It turns on the screen lights, the sconses and the step lights. When I’m ready to start the move, I just say “Alexa, turn on Start the movie” and all the lights get dimmed (except for the step lights).
You could do the same thing with the games. Walk in and say “Alexa, turn on play pinball” and all the games turn on.
Quoted from tamoore:Only issue I've had is with games with rotten dog CPU boards.
What issues have you had?
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:What issues have you had?
I think it has to do with low power. The Rotten Dog boards seem to reset or act flaky on circuits that have 5 games on them. It doesn't happen when there is only one or two games running on the same circuit.
Edit:
The odd thing is, I'll check the power when all games are on, and it always reads more than 110v
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:Have you considered an automation controller instead? My plan is to mount an iPad in the wall and run my Zwave controllers app on it. That will allow me full control of lighting and outlets.
I’ll also have voice control now that Alexa can interface with my controller.
No need to have all the outlets on switches. It’s also bad ass to be able to turn things on and off with a wall mounted iPad or voice control.
For example, when I walk into my theater, I just say “Alexa, turn on watch a movie”. It turns on the screen lights, the sconses and the step lights. When I’m ready to start the move, I just say “Alexa, turn on Start the movie” and all the lights get dimmed (except for the step lights).
You could do the same thing with the games. Walk in and say “Alexa, turn on play pinball” and all the games turn on.
If you do add any type of HA switches, be sure to run a neutral to them. 12/3 with ground.
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:Have you considered an automation controller instead? My plan is to mount an iPad in the wall and run my Zwave controllers app on it. That will allow me full control of lighting and outlets.
I’ll also have voice control now that Alexa can interface with my controller.
No need to have all the outlets on switches. It’s also bad ass to be able to turn things on and off with a wall mounted iPad or voice control.
For example, when I walk into my theater, I just say “Alexa, turn on watch a movie”. It turns on the screen lights, the sconses and the step lights. When I’m ready to start the move, I just say “Alexa, turn on Start the movie” and all the lights get dimmed (except for the step lights).
You could do the same thing with the games. Walk in and say “Alexa, turn on play pinball” and all the games turn on.
I want to plan for this... I truly do, but I have a 4 year old, and already Alexa has been told 65 times in the last week to “play ghostbusters song”. For the time being, I need everything on a quick touch normal Switch, however, I know there are systems that will be better than a standard 15a light switch, I also have an iPad2 sitting around that I can utilize. I will look into this Zwave you speak of.
Quoted from BlueBlood:If you do add any type of HA switches, be sure to run a neutral to them. 12/3 with ground.
I’ve already run 12/2 Romex; it has 3 wires in it, except for the actual switch wires coming from the box, I bet those will be different, I have not run those yet, rather; my electrician hasn’t run those. (Im doing most of the work, he’s doing a very select few things)
Quoted from Chosen_S:I want to plan for this... I truly do, but I have a 4 year old, and already Alexa has been told 65 times in the last week to “play ghostbusters song”. For the time being, I need everything on a quick touch normal Switch, however, I know there are systems that will be better than a standard 15a light switch, I also have an iPad2 sitting around that I can utilize. I will look into this Zwave you speak of.
I’ve already run 12/2 Romex; it has 3 wires in it, except for the actual switch wires coming from the box, I bet those will be different, I have not run those yet, rather; my electrician hasn’t run those. (Im doing most of the work, he’s doing a very select few things)
The 12/2 gives you a power leg(Black) and your switch leg(white). With 12/3, the switch leg will be your red wire, keeping the white for your neutral. Just tell your electrician you want a neutral to your switch boxes, he will take care of it. Even if you don’t do it now, you will have a wire there if you decide to in the future.
You will need a hub like SmartThings, this will need to connect to an Ethernet inside your game room. Everything can be controlled by the app, it’s pretty good. You can still use the switches like normal too, I use the GE 14294, but these are dimming. They have regular on/off switches too, for the pin circuits. They run about $40 per switch.
Quoted from BlueBlood:The 12/2 gives you a power leg(Black) and your switch leg(white). With 12/3, the switch leg will be your red wire, keeping the white for your neutral. Just tell your electrician you want a neutral to your switch boxes, he will take care of it. Even if you don’t do it now, you will have a wire there if you decide to in the future.
You will need a hub like SmartThings, this will need to connect to an Ethernet inside your game room. Everything can be controlled by the app, it’s pretty good. You can still use the switches like normal too, I use the GE 14294, but these are dimming. They have regular on/off switches too, for the pin circuits. They run about $40 per switch.
Nice, I’ll give you a call soon and map out the plan. Thanks man
1 week later
I finished up roughing in the bottom floor (at least everything I can, ) my electrician is running home runs from the top floor to the bottom floor and back to the box through conduit.
So far..
6x 250ft rolls of romex
350ft of mc cable (for can lights and ceiling receptacles)
12 runs of cat6 (no idea of how many feet, maybe 1000 so far???)
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Looks awesome, wish I could do something like this! If I remember from an earlier post I think you're going to leave the ceilings unfinished for an industrial look? If not- one idea is a small cove/soffit around the perimeter of the room to help run/hide wiring. You could set a hidden RGB LED strip in it then that could provide cool indirect lighting towards the ceiling- kind of like this:
Quoted from MustangPaul:WOW what a project but ya gotta do it.
Every day I’m hustlin
Quoted from Mike_M:Looks awesome, wish I could do something like this! If I remember from an earlier post I think you're going to leave the ceilings unfinished for an industrial look? If not- one idea is a small cove/soffit around the perimeter of the room to help run/hide wiring. You could set a hidden RGB LED strip in it then that could provide cool indirect lighting towards the ceiling- kind of like this:
Love this idea , but I really like a neon laser look effect too, I’m researching led strip diffuser systems I can use to get the effect I’m after
Quoted from PoBoyPinball:On your Cat6 actully very simple to tell how much you used. 1000' per box and wire has footage on it. In this box l have used 450' and have 550' remaining.
And your Game room is looking great.
Thank you!
I started on the room with about 1/2 a roll of 1kft, then started into a new roll. The 2nd floor won’t have as many runs as the bottom floor (12 on the bottom) maybe 6 or 8 on top.
Ordered speaker wire today, and 80 outlets
There’s 51 outlets on bottom floor and 40 on top. So excited to start wiring up those boogers.
I also recently purchased smart switches for all of the lighting, not the games though, I’ll do that down the road possibly, not real excited to see my 4 year old wild man get excited to figure out that function. Besides, it’s 10 separate circuits @$40ea.
Metal for the exterior is all ordered as well, maybe a week for delivery, maybe 2 weeks before I start installing it.
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