Saint Paul, MN
Oh that's right, I saw the ridges in the roofing and didn't put 2 and 2 together.
(Topic ID: 187241)
Marseille
Thanks guys, I’m bustin a$$ every day,
I’m at a place where I may need some heavy equipment again, my uncle tells me he’s got a fire mans ladder I can use to put on the upper sheets. I’m trying to determine the best course of action, I have a few ideas 
Apparently the hurricanes have created high demand for 7/16” 4x8’ osb, it’s shot up to over $17 per sheet! Insane, I still need a whole bunch of it too , grrrrr
Pics tomorrow
Melbourne
How much to have a crane truck deliver sheets to the top of the roof? Seriously is a pain pushing sheets up that high. Otherwise three people. Two on roof with ropes, to pull sheets up and one on the ground floor to tie the ropes around each end of each sheet.
Quoted from PinPatch:How much to have a crane truck deliver sheets to the top of the roof? Seriously is a pain pushing sheets up that high. Otherwise three people. Two on roof with ropes, to pull sheets up and one on the ground floor to tie the ropes around each end of each sheet.
The roof is steel so no sheets needed up there.
Quoted from Chosen_S:Thanks guys, I’m bustin a$$ every day,
I’m at a place where I may need some heavy equipment again, my uncle tells me he’s got a fire mans ladder I can use to put on the upper sheets. I’m trying to determine the best course of action, I have a few ideas
Apparently the hurricanes have created high demand for 7/16” 4x8’ osb, it’s shot up to over $17 per sheet! Insane, I still need a whole bunch of it too , grrrrr
Pics tomorrow
I would think the best way would be to rent some scaffolding. 2 men on the scaffolding positioning and screwing it and one person on the bottom with a 2x4 brace proping the sheet in place to be screwed down.
Quoted from PinPatch:How much to have a crane truck deliver sheets to the top of the roof? Seriously is a pain pushing sheets up that high. Otherwise three people. Two on roof with ropes, to pull sheets up and one on the ground floor to tie the ropes around each end of each sheet.
Yes, roof is done I hustled those sheets up myself’ one level at a time
Quoted from MustangPaul:The roof is steel so no sheets needed up there.
I would think the best way would be to rent some scaffolding. 2 men on the scaffolding positioning and screwing it and one person on the bottom with a 2x4 brace proping the sheet in place to be screwed down.
Scaffolding is also a great idea, and a 2x4.
Looks like I may need to commission a few buddies, although I do have this wild idea that involves a bucket of bricks, some paracord and a few screws- Merica!
Quoted from Chosen_S:Yes, roof is done I hustled those sheets up myself’ one level at a time
Scaffolding is also a great idea, and a 2x4.
Looks like I may need to commission a few buddies, although I do have this wild idea that involves a bucket of bricks, some paracord and a few screws- Merica!
When you overlaped the roof sheets what did you use to seal them with?
Will be interesting to see what you come up with.
Quoted from dothedoo:This is gonna be really nice. Wish I could build something like this on my property.
Thank you buddy
Quoted from MustangPaul:When you overlaped the roof sheets what did you use to seal them with?
Will be interesting to see what you come up with.
The roofing is glued at the seams with mastic, and then joining screws tighten the mastic seal.
...
Started sheeting, read code last night that the 2nd floor needs the panels vertical to provide the best stability against wind, and I figured plywood is the best choice. I removed an 8’ panel and put up a vertical sheet
Nice. Do they want you to stagger the vertical sheet? Good choice with using plywood. I was going to suggest that, makes the 2nd floor much stronger.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Nice. Do they want you to stagger the vertical sheet? Good choice with using plywood. I was going to suggest that, makes the 2nd floor much stronger.
I’m not real sure on the staggering, but, I put them vertical anyway
Awesome thread ! I was just looking through some of your post and I didn't see anything in regards to engineering calcs on the structure. Does your township not require them? I can't imagine the powers that be allowing construction of a 2 story structure without proper wind loads, seismic, or deflection criteria outlined in a stamped package.
Quoted from Chosen_S:I’m not real sure on the staggering, but, I put them vertical anyway
staggering is a good idea and will add strength. You will have to rip the top sheets anyway, so might as well put the rip on the bottom of the next column. Like laying hardwood you dont want multiple rows/colums with the same seam.
Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:Awesome thread ! I was just looking through some of your post and I didn't see anything in regards to engineering calcs on the structure. Does your township not require them? I can't imagine the powers that be allowing construction of a 2 story structure without proper wind loads, seismic, or deflection criteria outlined in a stamped package.
I have an engineer stamped package for the metal structure, I’m awaiting the inspection for the 2nd floor, as well as having a professional look over my work... the city wants to do an electrical inspection and follow up with a framing inspection; 2 different inspectors. I’m trying to have the city reverse that order so I can fix any issues before I run electrical
Quoted from Whysnow:staggering is a good idea and will add strength. You will have to rip the top sheets anyway, so might as well put the rip on the bottom of the next column. Like laying hardwood you dont want multiple rows/colums with the same seam.
You’re right, I’m going to let a pro take a look to see what the consensus is before my metal siding goes on, if code forces me to stagger, I guess I’ll be pulling sheets and redoing them Again.
Quoted from Chosen_S:I have an engineer stamped package for the metal structure, I’m awaiting the inspection for the 2nd floor, as well as having a professional look over my work... the city wants to do an electrical inspection and follow up with a framing inspection; 2 different inspectors. I’m trying to have the city reverse that order so I can fix any issues before I run electrical
You’re right, I’m going to let a pro take a look to see what the consensus is before my metal siding goes on, if code forces me to stagger, I guess I’ll be pulling sheets and redoing them Again.
Your gonna insulate it too right? Besides all those permits you got I had to get an insulation permit and inspection and a gas heater permit too. 
Quoted from MustangPaul:Your gonna insulate it too right? Besides all those permits you got I had to get an insulation permit and inspection and a gas heater permit too.
Yes, I’ll insulate too, no permit necessary for it or heater
Leduc, AB
Quoted from Chosen_S:Yes, I’ll insulate too, no permit necessary for it or heater
But you're gonna put up a vapor barrier on the inside right?
Quoted from MustangPaul:But you're gonna put up a vapor barrier on the inside right?
I’ll flash the bottom seam, and tyvek wrap the outside (vapor barrier) and insulate the interior with a mix of 2” closed cell foam and spray in foam.
We have light restrictions on insulation due to the mild winters in West Texas, I could even get away with just exterior vapor barrier and no insulation and still heat and cool
Well Tyvek breaths so it't not a vapor barrier, 4 to 6 mil plastic sheeting is a vapor barrier and put on the inside on top of the insulation, except sprayed foam then the drywall goes on top of that. But not in your area?
Quoted from MustangPaul:Well Tyvek breaths so it't not a vapor barrier, 4 to 6 mil plastic sheeting is a vapor barrier and put on the inside on top of the insulation, except sprayed foam then the drywall goes on top of that. But not in your area?
All that is required is tyvek or zip board system on the outer sheeting but behind the outer layer (brick, Vaneer, or siding) , on the interior; only insulation and drywall, how much insulation is up to the builder, 2” foam does the trick around here.
I guess there is not much in the way of regulation on the insulation here, we get a lot of wind, not much rain, not much snow or ice, coldest it gets here in the dead of winter is about 12 degrees, maybe colder with wind chill, but not often. My shop at work is fairly insulated and in 10 years I have not seen it get colder than 30 degrees.
However, it gets really hot, sometimes 115, so we have to insulate the roof very well to deflect heat, that’s usually the main concern.
Quoted from kid_ego:Very cool project...and thread!
Keep posting those pics and can't wait to see the finished project.
Thanks a lot! I’m working hard
Spray foam will help with the heat.
Real example in this thread http://pinballrevolution.com/threads/building-a-dream.429/page-19#post-42399
Quoted from MustangPaul:But not in your area?
Have you been to West Texas Paul? I think they’re still in search of vapor in that area!!
Quoted from PinPatch:If using spray foam , for the love of god put additional power points etc as no hope of running cables in the future!!
Totally plan to, they’ll be everywhere, even floor and ceiling, and every 5 will be on a 20 amp breaker .
Quoted from eh97ac:Spray foam will help with the heat.
Real example in this thread http://pinballrevolution.com/threads/building-a-dream.429/page-19#post-42399
Check this out...
I know this cuts into how much time the process will take, but I’m trying to save $$ on what I can... there’s still games to be bought right!?
I will probably get a 1/3 in to the process and decide to spray anyway, who knows.
Now, I still plan to spray the ceiling on the 2nd floor, there’s no way I’m doing that by hand, I may even contract it out.
Quoted from Pinzap:Have you been to West Texas Paul? I think they’re still in search of vapor in that area!!
In fact, there’s such a lack of vapor, stores have popped up selling the stuff in small quantities. 
Yesterday’s work... yes I know my staggering sucks, I’ll change it if my pro home builder buddy says I need to, over the phone he said the inspector won’t look for it.
I discovered that I need more of a gap in the top sheets to allow for flashing. I’ll be fixing that today, also...
I bet my neighbors are looking forward to their privacy again (they moved in about a year ago and immediately raised the cinderblock fence 2 blocks)
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Quoted from Pinzap:Have you been to West Texas Paul? I think they’re still in search of vapor in that area!!
Yup on the way to Los Crusis, NM. Almost got blown off the road buy the side winds. 
Not much new to report, I had 2 pros come by to look things over and give me a few things to fix...
I’m still sheeting the sides, I got some scaffolding that’s a pain to move, but is great for getting the hard to reach stuff safely.
I went back and re framed the areas on the walls on the 2nd floor where the sheets vertical breaks showed, I’ll finish sheeting the west wall tomorrow and finish all of the screw work on the sheets as well (have to have a screw or nail every 6” on the frame through the sheet, I previously thought it was every 1’)
Installed hurricane ties to the roof purlin .
Nice that you had it looked at before the inspectors came out. Maybe it would be a good idea to put some kind of ties on the wall studs where they meet the floor plate, or every other stud. Just guessing here. I always overbuild everything.
Dig the pics with the lawn furniture on the second floor one heck of a tree house / fort at this point.... Got to be a good time chilling out up there this time of year.
Quoted from PoBoyPinball:Dig the pics with the lawn furniture on the second floor one heck of a tree house / fort at this point.... Got to be a good time chilling out up there this time of year.
You bet! Already had a few guys nights up there with drinks and cigars.
West wall sheeting done, sealing and insulation should be fun... the sheets were not planned out well, I’ll take more time planning the other walls when the sheets are cut, live and learn
To soon for mold I would think. I hope you use all screws on the new flooring, you'll never have a squeak.
Quoted from MustangPaul:To soon for mold I would think. I hope you use all screws on the new flooring, you'll never have a squeak.
Who knows, but since it got wet like it did, I’m going to check , I need to reset the sheets more staggered than I did and sand down the edges and paint the entire floor to seal it, should be fun!
Oh yeah you have to take it all apart and probably throw the insulation away and dry the wood and everything with fans for a few days, but with your dry heat it should dry fast. Is the insulation fiberglass? I used 2 coats of the high traffic floor paint on the wood floor portion in my garage then I covered it with 10x17 piece of that drive on plastic cement floor covering from Menards, but you won't be doing that.
1 week later
Quoted from Chosen_S:Started pulling apart the floor, lots to clean under the insulation, no big deal
What a mess, you buy that stuff by the case. Hose it down, let it dry then hose it down and let it dry REAL good then you'll be ready to go.
Quoted from MustangPaul:What a mess, you buy that stuff by the case. Hose it down, let it dry then hose it down and let it dry REAL good then you'll be ready to go.
Ha! At $14 a bottle, I have 2, I’ll go back for a third to finish it off. It actually goes a long way covering every cavity
Quoted from MustangPaul:Damn that's expensive, probably just bleach too.
Nope, it’s not bleach I have that too, this stuff is pretty special anti-mold, I’ll get a pic of the label tomorrow
3 weeks later
Floor cleaned and put back together... check
Building wrapped... check
Bottom outside edges flashed... check
Doors installed... check
Fixed big 2nd story header top plate... check
1st floor window frame made... check
Bought 2 pins that I don’t need... check
Finished bottom cabinet of Medusa restore... check
Led’d color changing spare earthshaker playfield for overhead lighting... check
Next...
Start sections of exterior with Hardie plank
Get electrical boxes installed
Run electrical wire and conduit
Install overhead lights
Install window
Sand, level and seal 2nd story sub floor
Electrical inspection
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Just a quick tip, if the metal clad door is like the ones we have in Australia, make sure you seal the edges with a suitable sealant, as well around the door knob to the outside. Water eventually gets in and rots them out from the inside.
Looking good!!
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