(Topic ID: 187241)

Backyard Gameroom in the Desert


By Chosen_S

2 years ago



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  • 656 posts
  • 92 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 months ago by zh2oson
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    There are 656 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 14.
    #51 2 years ago

    Awesome progress so far. Keep up the updates!

    #52 2 years ago

    Metal should be in next week to build the initial frame

    4 weeks later
    #53 2 years ago

    Took the building company a little more time to build the steel I needed, delivered yesterday. Now I finally get to start working on things again.

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    #54 2 years ago
    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    Took the building company a little more time to build the steel I needed, delivered yesterday. Now I finally get to start working on things again.

    A grownups erector set. Those big beams are heavy I'll bet. Are you gonna erect this?

    #55 2 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    A grownups erector set. Those big beams are heavy I'll bet. Are you gonna erect this?

    You bet! I'll rent a forklift and bribe a few buddy's with beer

    #56 2 years ago
    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    You bet! I'll rent a forklift and bribe a few buddy's with beer

    Cool. Beer and steel construction work....what could go wrong.

    #57 2 years ago

    Hahaha, well, they can have beer afterwards while they gaze on their fine handiwork

    #58 2 years ago

    Looking forward to seeing this completed. It looks great so far.

    10
    #59 2 years ago

    Fun with Friends, Family and forklifts + they didn't want food or beer!?!?!?

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    #60 2 years ago

    Lookin good. That's going to be a nice size.

    #62 2 years ago

    I'll spend part of tomorrow straightening up the columns and the rafters, then torquing down all the bolts. I should be ready for wood frames soon I hope, this next week is super busy for me, so it may be a little bit before I start framing. Feels good to finally see big stuff happening

    #63 2 years ago

    When do you start on the second story?

    #64 2 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    When do you start on the second story?

    I spent the day leveling and adjusting all of the metal, if I posted a pic, it would look the same.

    The 2nd story will be built of wood on top of the metal structure, so hopefully soon! I need some stairs and I'm also ready for some privacy, my rear neighbors have been able to see the back of my house for months now, I wander if any of them saw my woz through the dining room window.

    I have a lot to do now, but at least I'm not waiting on concrete or metal, so hopefully there's little to wait on for a while and I can just start framing.

    And I keep getting asked the question by my friends and family... "so... the whole 2 stories is for games!!??"

    My answer... YES!

    And... they look at me in surprise and are bewildered... just the response I wanted.

    My neighborhood Contains a very large park and it acts as a catch for rain that flows off the neighborhood, because of this it is a breeding ground for mosquitoes... so my family and I hate going in our backyard in the dead of the summer, even though we have fun there, we would rather be inside away from the mosquitoes... many other families have done similar things... indoor pools, big trampoline room, screened in BBQ kitchen... us... big 2 story game room!

    #65 2 years ago

    Looking great brother!

    #66 2 years ago
    Quoted from Whysnow:

    Looking great brother!

    Thank you bud!

    #67 2 years ago

    Cool project can't wait to see more progress!

    #68 2 years ago
    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    I spent the day leveling and adjusting all of the metal, if I posted a pic, it would look the same.
    The 2nd story will be built of wood on top of the metal structure, so hopefully soon! I need some stairs and I'm also ready for some privacy, my rear neighbors have been able to see the back of my house for months now, I wander if any of them saw my woz through the dining room window.
    I have a lot to do now, but at least I'm not waiting on concrete or metal, so hopefully there's little to wait on for a while and I can just start framing.
    And I keep getting asked the question by my friends and family... "so... the whole 2 stories is for games!!??"
    My answer... YES!
    And... they look at me in surprise and are bewildered... just the response I wanted.
    My neighborhood Contains a very large park and it acts as a catch for rain that flows off the neighborhood, because of this it is a breeding ground for mosquitoes... so my family and I hate going in our backyard in the dead of the summer, even though we have fun there, we would rather be inside away from the mosquitoes... many other families have done similar things... indoor pools, big trampoline room, screened in BBQ kitchen... us... big 2 story game room!

    Wood, I see. Who's gonna engineer your game lift? That will be interesting to see. We here in the cities live in what's called the Mosquito Control District, it started about 30 or so years ago, every they hit most of the breeding grounds within a 9 county area and man does it work. I live about 3 miles away from the capitol and for the past 20 or so years I can count on 2 hands how many of those little suckers I've had to swat. Looking forward to more pictures.

    #69 2 years ago

    Really cool project, thought you were joking about doing the steelwork yourself!

    3 weeks later
    #70 2 years ago

    Some frame work up and starting on the 2nd floor, I'm exhausted, lol

    Screwing the wood to 1/4" steel was a challenge to figure out.

    Building the floor of the 2nd story is time consuming

    But I'm having a blast

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    #71 2 years ago

    Wow, those pics really give a perspective on size. This will be an epic space.

    #72 2 years ago

    About 1200 square feet with the building, another 300 with the breezeway and enclosed patio.

    #Blessedwithawifethatapproves

    #73 2 years ago

    Man that's lookin great. I wish I could help, I love that kind of building. I had a blast doing the inside of my garage/shop/Gameroom II. I imagine you have to drill and bolt the walls down. What spacing are the bolts required to be? Are you also using tie straps or plates on all the wall studs? Don't just trust 2 screws or spikes per stud to hold the walls together in high winds.

    #74 2 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    Man that's lookin great. I wish I could help, I love that kind of building. I had a blast doing the inside of my garage/shop/Gameroom II. I imagine you have to drill and bolt the walls down. What spacing are the bolts required to be? Are you also using tie straps or plates on all the wall studs? Don't just trust 2 screws or spikes per stud to hold the walls together in high winds.

    Thanks much!

    I dont know what the requirements are, but I was thinking about every 2 feet I'd place a 1/4" bolt to tie the framing to the metal and wood together. The metal is 1/4" thick plate steel,

    I have some metal strapping to pull the studs together, I'm using 2x6's to build the top level frame.

    Keep the good advise coming, I don't have a lot of experience with code, but I'm learning fast.

    so far electrical phase 1 has passed as well as foundation. Electrical phase 2, plumbing (there is no plumbing) and final is what's left on the list, my understand is that the interior fascia (drywall etc) needs to be done after the final inspection so framing and electrical can be approved, hope I'm right, I can't seem to get an inspector to talk to me, by email or phone, nor can I find any building code for my city, I'm having to go off of old code books.

    #75 2 years ago
    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    I dont know what the requirements are, but I was thinking about every 2 feet I'd place a 1/4" bolt to tie the framing to the metal and wood together. The metal is 1/4" thick plate steel,

    I'd suggest running a grade 8 bolt and nut, 1/2 inch through a 1/4 inch thick plate steel on top of the wood then through the I beam. Don't trust just washers, you need a rectangular plate to distribute the clamping force over a larger area. Your only going to do this once so go as heavy duty as you can.

    2x6 is the way to go.

    #76 2 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    I'd suggest running a grade 8 bolt and nut, 1/2 inch through a 1/4 inch thick plate steel on top of the wood then through the I beam. Don't trust just washers, you need a rectangular plate to distribute the clamping force over a larger area. Your only going to do this once so go as heavy duty as you can.
    2x6 is the way to go.

    I can do that! Just so happens I have some 1/2" bolts that should do the trick, square washers... I'll go find some

    Got some more decking knocked out today...

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    #77 2 years ago

    The sill plates, bottoms of the walls are 2x6 right? They are 5-1/2 inches wide so make the plates 5-1/2 x 5-1/2. You'll be golden then using the full width of the board for strength not just a 2 inch circle. You'll make good brownie points with the inspector too. ) Damn that looks like fun.

    #78 2 years ago

    Are you putting external structural plywood to top level walls to act as a brace? You might nor need to do the entire length of walls but rather one sheet on each side of corner.

    Might be an idea to hire or borrow from your steel guy a magnetic drill to drill the holes where you are fixing walls to steel beam. Before you lift the wall frames, drill holes then lift frames and drill the bottom plate from underneath.

    Magnet drill should "stick" through the sheet flooring, or it might fit within the beam on the outside.

    You don't want to drill a those holes the traditional way!

    #79 2 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    The sill plates, bottoms of the walls are 2x6 right? They are 5-1/2 inches wide so make the plates 5-1/2 x 5-1/2. You'll be golden then using the full width of the board for strength not just a 2 inch circle. You'll make good brownie points with the inspector too. ) Damn that looks like fun.

    Good advise, and also.., thank you for spending more money for me, lol

    Quoted from PinPatch:

    Are you putting external structural plywood to top level walls to act as a brace? You might nor need to do the entire length of walls but rather one sheet on each side of corner.
    Might be an idea to hire or borrow from your steel guy a magnetic drill to drill the holes where you are fixing walls to steel beam. Before you lift the wall frames, drill holes then lift frames and drill the bottom plate from underneath.
    Magnet drill should "stick" through the sheet flooring, or it might fit within the beam on the outside.
    You don't want to drill a those holes the traditional way!

    Good idea here too, thank you, I've been discussing the magnetic drill with my metal guy, I hope he comes through.

    I have a 300ft roll of galvalum strapping to brace the corners, I have to do it this way because of the metal roof, if I plywood the corners, i will need to plywood the entire roof. Unfortunately and fortunately I can't do this.

    I'm getting closer with the floor, I'm in a race against the clock, it's supposed to rain a lot next week, so I'm trying to tighten everything down as good as I can as fast as I can

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    #80 2 years ago
    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    thank you for spending more money for me, lol

    You'd be kicking yourself later if you don't do it now. )

    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    I'm getting closer with the floor, I'm in a race against the clock, it's supposed to rain a lot next week, so I'm trying to tighten everything down as good as I can as fast as I can

    I hope ya got a BIG sheet of thick plastic to put over it. That would be real nasty if that insulation got wet. Are you doing any kind of vapor barrier? Don't know what code is down there. And make sure to put lots of screws in the flooring, use the star head screws not the Phillip head screws. After using the star head screws in my addition and garage inside finish I threw all my Phillips head screws away and will never buy them again, pure junk compaired to the star head.

    #81 2 years ago

    The flooring is engineered tongue and groove osb, I've been using ribbed hurricane nails, I'll finish it off with deck screws. I have enough plastic to cover the top floor with, but I may get more to be on the safe side. I've got bricks to weigh it down.

    After I osb sheet the outer shell I will wrap it with tyvek, tape it and staple it, then cover it with cement siding and D panel.

    I'm taking 2-3 hour lunches and working after work and weekends when time allows. I'm filling in as much time as I can, so when I have an opportunity to be with friends and family, I don't feel guilty from not working on it. My 2 boys are loving the project, they get a kick out of helping me. Especially my 4 year old, he asks about 2500 questions an hour, keeps me sharp, lol

    #82 2 years ago

    RE plywood bracing, without knowing the finish on the inside, you can put plywood on the inside of the walls. Plywood really stops movement a lot better than metal bracing in my opinion.

    (In Australia nearly all corners require ply bracing)

    #83 2 years ago

    cool thread, love the build threads

    #84 2 years ago
    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    The flooring is engineered tongue and groove osb,

    Oups I meant the osb sub floor.

    #85 2 years ago

    Big time props on using the torque head screws for the decking! Love those things

    The 2nd story sub floor is finished, about to move on to drilling holes for the 2nd story framing, I bought a hole hawg steel bit that I can start drilling with until my buddy comes through with a mag drill

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    #86 2 years ago
    Quoted from PinPatch:

    RE plywood bracing, without knowing the finish on the inside, you can put plywood on the inside of the walls. Plywood really stops movement a lot better than metal bracing in my opinion.
    (In Australia nearly all corners require ply bracing)

    Good call, I'll use ply on the inside, should work great!

    #87 2 years ago

    Looks good, keep it up!

    #88 2 years ago
    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    Good call, I'll use ply on the inside, should work great!

    That's what I used on the inside of my garage/shop/ gameroom II but I screwed up, I used 3/8 inch ACX on the walls and ceiling, what I should have used was 1/2 inch. 3/8 is not rigid enough so I have some bowing in the walls and ceiling especially the ceiling. The roof rafters are 24 IOC and that's just too much for 3/8, for walls it's not too bad because they are 16 IOC. What I should have done with the rafters is put 2x4's in between the rafters to connect them, that would have given me a lot more support for the 4x8 sheets of plywood. I love those torque head screws too.

    #89 2 years ago

    GRK R8 screws for the win. Can't get them in Australia, have to import through Amazon.

    Looking good.

    #90 2 years ago

    went to my local bolt supply, they don't have large plates for the bolts, just hardened flat round washers, but they also had 2" washers; a couple of builders were in and one them said that using the 2" washers plus the hardened flat, plus a lock washer would marry the wood to the steel, the screws holding the wood together will rip apart before the 2x6 will separate from the steel with this setup. I have one more source to find some steel plates, so I'll check there too, other than that I would have to make them.

    #91 2 years ago
    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    went to my local bolt supply, they don't have large plates for the bolts, just hardened flat round washers, but they also had 2" washers; a couple of builders were in and one them said that using the 2" washers plus the hardened flat, plus a lock washer would marry the wood to the steel, the screws holding the wood together will rip apart before the 2x6 will separate from the steel with this setup. I have one more source to find some steel plates, so I'll check there too, other than that I would have to make them.

    I have a local discount steel place a few miles from me that I go to but if they say those round ones would be good enough you should go with that. It would be nice to anchor those wall studs better though. That upper floor catches more wind up high.

    #92 2 years ago

    Coming along nicely

    #93 2 years ago

    This is fantastic. Great work! Can't wait to see more updates!

    Chris

    2 weeks later
    #94 2 years ago

    Last week rained, a lot. All of my insulation got wet that I just laid in, as well as the osb, all despite my best efforts. I had plenty of plastic and a 30x40 tarp, but nothing held the water back... it actually took me the entire week to figure out how to make a tent out of the tarp to repel the water, alas work continues.

    After I get the 2nd floor roof on and get the building sheeted in osb and wrapped in tyvek, I’ll rip up the insulated floor and replace the ruined pieces of insulation and clean any mild and mildew. We’ve had several 80+degree days, maybe it’s not that bad??? Still frustrating...

    Still more framing work to do, I finally slowed down to snap a few pics

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    #95 2 years ago

    Oh man sorry to hear about all that wet insulation and flooring, that's gonna be a real pain to redo. As long as you used screws to put the osb down it won't be tooooo bad. At least your wall studs aren't on top of the flooring.

    #96 2 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    Oh man sorry to hear about all that wet insulation and flooring, that's gonna be a real pain to redo. As long as you used screws to put the osb down it won't be tooooo bad. At least your wall studs aren't on top of the flooring.

    Thanks man, I’ve got a mix of nails and screws holding that osb down, I bought some good pry bars to help out.

    #97 2 years ago

    Nails? I quit using nails years ago. The guy that built my garage addition put the insulation in the floor then put plastic over the top then layed the osb floor then put the walls up on top of the flooring, he said that was the right way to do it. When the inspector saw it he said the plastic was backwards, plastic between floor joists then plastic then insulation. I had to run my circle saw 4 inches away from the walls just deep enough to cut through the osb floor, unscrew the couple hundred screws then remove and throw away all the osb because he had used Liquid Nails and screws to hold the flooring down. Good thing the Liquid Nails hadn't set real good but It still took me a couple days to scrap that shit off, some of which had hardened and osb had stuck to it. Then I had to pull up the plastic and insulation and lay down new plastic (4 mill is code so I put 6 mil down LOL) put the insulation back down and get it reinspected. When all that was done (about 3 weeks) a buddy and me put all new T&G 3/4 inch osb down. Your gonna have to put new insulation and osb down....what a waste especially for that size floor you have, mine is only 12x22. I feel your pain.

    1 week later
    #98 2 years ago

    I got some major work done this week, purlin up and braces in place, then put about 11 hours in yesterday to get the roof on. All by myself. I did have some help from my friend Joe with the purlins earlier in the week though.

    The roof calls for 1000 screws but I lack installing about 50 of them , it got dark and both of my legs and my left arm lost functionality and started cramping. I could barely get down the ladder. Who needs CrossFit when you can build a two story building.

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    #99 2 years ago

    WOW!!! That's some great progress and some overhang over the house. I'm guessing the roof pitch is towards the alley correct. I've never put roof screws in steel beams before, it must be fun. Stay safe on that roof.

    #100 2 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    WOW!!! That's some great progress and some overhang over the house. I'm guessing the roof pitch is towards the alley correct. I've never put roof screws in steel beams before, it must be fun. Stay safe on that roof.

    The roof pitch is toward my neighbors house/fence (west side ) , the concrete there slopes to the alley, the city code won’t allow direct drip water displacement to the alley. I plan to put in a gutter system to help in this as well

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