(Topic ID: 225051)

Backglass STUCK in my Eight Ball thanks to trim gone rogue

By Stemage

5 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Stemage
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 5 years ago

I recently acquired an Eight Ball and bought some new top trim for the near perfect backglass. On inserting the glass into the backbox, the trim promptly removed itself from the top of the glass. I failed to adhere the trim, as I had not done that with other machines. However, other machines had translites. WHOOPS?

I didn't realize this for a few days until tonight when I tried to get into the backbox. The trim is lodged above the backglass, and the backglass does not have clearance to properly exit the head. The right side makes it out, but the left side is a mm or three from making it out.

!!!

The trim is smashed up there. It started bent and there wasn't a chance of getting it back on by holding my mouth right. Now the trim is definitely broken, and I'm hoping to find a way to get this backglass out of the box.

This is so stupid.

We are working with a near perfect backglass. Nuzzling the glass upwards with gumption chops away at the trim, but it doesn't seem that the trim can safely be smashed to bits without jeopardizing the backglass itself.

The head can't be removed because I can't get inside the head to unplug anything. This is SO very stupid.

I don't know much about early Bally backboxes. My brother has a Meteor and took pictures of how the wooden trim works at the top of the window on his head. Mine may be made differently? Someone before me put formica on the front and sizes of the backbox trim (looks nice, but who cares right now), so there isn't a way to see where screws might live. It's possible the top wood trim holding the backglass is part of a solid piece of wood? Anyone have advice based on what they know of early SS Ballys?

My brother's example of what might be possibleMy brother's example of what might be possible
I don't see a gap, bro. Perhaps it was painted shut when the formica was installed?I don't see a gap, bro. Perhaps it was painted shut when the formica was installed?
Another viewAnother view

Just got this baby cleaned up, and tonight was supposed to be LED conversion night. NOT ANYMORE. Any ideas? Halp?

#3 5 years ago
Quoted from VampireKangaroo:

This may sound strange but maybe use the cap of a pen (long pointy part) to wiggle the trim down or out just enough to remove the back glass. Good luck Stem.

Not strange. Unfortunately, the trim is wedged completely above the backglass, and there isn't much additional room for small tools. It's a pretty tight fit, which is why the trim "left itself" in the crack up there to begin with. I'm gonna fool around some more with tools, but since it's the entire width of the glass, there isn't really anywhere for it to go. Thanks!

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

Try getting a putty knife or something else that is thin and rigid. Slip the knife between the trim and glass on the side that will lift. Gradually slide the knife toward the problem side while lifting the glass. This should guide the trim back into position and get it free.

Very nice. Unfortunately, I was unable to get my smallest, thinnest screwdriver between the BG and the trim, but I probably need something even thinner. This is definitely a good next logical step. I worry the problem side is damaged to the point of creased, so we'll see how far we get.

Quoted from Thrillhouse:

I can send some pics of a bally backbox if you'd like. The top and bottom channels are individual pieces that are stapled to the body of the head. You could get a jimmy bar and pry one loose but your looking at repainting and repairing the damage.

I understand that. It makes sense to know what the pieces look like so I know where to jimmy is all. Is it stapled from underneath into the top piece of wood? I have no problem making a new top channel if I end up there. Just an eye-rolling pain.

THIS IS SO DUMB.

Thanks so much!

#7 5 years ago

Yeah the bottom channel won't be touched under any circumstance. I can't get the head off of the machine anyway. All the wood stuff is last resort. Thanks Thrill!

#13 5 years ago
Quoted from Pdxmonkey:

Used a plastic pass card to push into the corner.

You mean like a credit card? A bit confused how you got the dart out.

Interesting ideas! So the sides of the box are simply glued on? I didn't realize that. I'd love to reuse the same pieces since they already look nice with the formica, but hey we'll see. If this piece can be KNOCKED OFF with a 2x4 somewhat easily, I might just do that before anything else weird and precarious. Here are pictures on request. IMG_20180910_124150 (resized).jpgIMG_20180910_124150 (resized).jpgIMG_20180910_124131 (resized).jpgIMG_20180910_124131 (resized).jpgIMG_20180910_124208 (resized).jpgIMG_20180910_124208 (resized).jpg

Quoted from wdennie:

interesting, none of my older bally's have a top trim and if I added one they won't fit.

It came with a few busted pieces on it, and Marco lists a top trim sku for old Ballys. I dunno.

#15 5 years ago

I'm still wondering if removing the top trim is the easiest and cleanest solution. It's less wood to take off, and if I glue it back it's a way easier clamp job. It also doesn't have any formica on it. That's my current thinking.

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

The top will be less visible of repair work. Make the cuts, pry the top off from the back side, left it up and remove the trim and back glass.
Don't glue it back. Just screw it back on.

I don't mean remove the entire top of the backbox, I meant pry the top channel off (downward) as per the meteor shot in my original post.

Thank you all for the pics and reference material.

#21 5 years ago

Thank you all for you conversation! The saga is over. Some trimming, sanding, and repainting, and we're back to normal. That top channel I'm pretty sure is one piece of wood btw. Here is the grand finale story told with storyboard.

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