(Topic ID: 5244)

Backglass back questions


By wizzardz

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by wizzardz
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 8 years ago

    I have a really nice Wizard! backglass that I'm looking to touch up and preserve. I have two issues I could use some help with.

    One is that the back glass has a a small mud dauber nest on. I was able to break the top of it away, but I'm quite certain that trying to break the rest away would damage the backglass. I can slowly reconstitute the mud and wipe it away. Otherwise there is a fine layer of dirt on the entire back. How sturdy is the backglass paint to getting moist (not wet) or being gently wiped if its otherwise in good shape? I think I can get most if not all the mud off with only minor effort/pressure.

    The next is the the backglass lift channel. What is the best way to remove this old rusted thing without trashing the backglass. Note that the paint missing in the pic is the only I've found.

    IMG_2283_(Large).JPG IMG_2287_(Large).JPG

    #2 8 years ago

    Oh man........ not sure?

    what is - go easy with the H2O?

    #3 8 years ago

    In doing more research, I'm seeing where many recommend using a cloth or paper towel (I'll stick with a soft cloth) moistened with window cleaner and gentle wiping of the painted side to clean it.

    Am I asking for more trouble moistening with H2O or window cleaner (or even 92% isopropyl)?

    #4 8 years ago
    Quoted from wizzardz:

    Am I asking for more trouble moistening with H2O or window cleaner (or even 92% isopropyl)?

    I'm thinking H2O is going to be the better choice. I could be wrong though.

    #5 8 years ago

    I think so long as you have no flaking issues you should be able to use water to clean the mud off with no ill effects, just go slow and let the mud break down so you use very little pressure. You can get the backglass frame pieces at pbr@pbresource.com Steve Young carries most everything you could want including the fuses you want. Do you have a manual or schematics so that you know what type of fuse you need????Look in the bottom cabinate where the fuses are and see if they are labled, most pins are labled from the factory. If not google it and you should be able to get a copy of the manual in PDF form. Good Luck

    #6 8 years ago
    Quoted from RWH:

    Do you have a manual or schematics so that you know what type of fuse you need????

    I have the fuses and fuse holder on order. Given the condition of the machine, I was surprised that all the paper placards are in place, albeit covered in grime.

    I'm thinking I'm going to use a dropper and a cloth to get the mud off...moistening it until it just comes off

    #7 8 years ago

    Curious about best way to replace rusted lift channel as well. The one on my Mystic is rusted and I'd love to replace it, if I wasn't scared to death of ruining it.. don't want a $20 snazzy upgrade turning into a nightmare.

    #8 8 years ago
    Quoted from mystic:

    Curious about best way to replace rusted lift channel as well.

    I replaced the entire frame around mine and when I got to the lift frame it had a very small amount of what I assume was silicone adhesive in three spots. I just took it easy and slid a very thin and flexible putty knife (taped off on glass side) between the front of the glass and the frame and worked it across the glass.

    #9 8 years ago
    Quoted from RWH:

    You can get the backglass frame pieces at pbr@pbresource.com

    PBR does not carry the trim kits. In fact, I had a hard time finding it myself. I would up getting them off E-bay if I recall correctly. The ususal vendors only carry the trim kits for translight glass.

    #10 8 years ago

    If there is no flaking, I have gently wiped the back down with a moist (water) towel and had no issues yet. Would not use anything else. Good saying is the enemy of good enough is better. Not sure what to do with that mud so not going there.

    The trim is held on with something similar to black double sided tape. Probably is silicone as RWH said. It is stronger than the white stuff and can be bought at Lowes. I cut the tape with a razor and then pulled the trim off gently but firmly. Be sure not to torq the trim as you pull as it will put pressure on the glass that you don't want. And try your best to hold that glass and not touch the screening. Sounds harder than it is.

    #11 8 years ago
    Quoted from pintastic:

    PBR does not carry the trim kits. In fact, I had a hard time finding it myself

    Could have sworn that's where I got my trim. I'll look through my stuff and see if I still have the invoice. I just purchased the trim about three months or so back. Sorry for steering you in the wrong way.

    #12 8 years ago
    Quoted from SealClubber:

    I have gently wiped the back down with a moist (water) towel and had no issues yet.

    Thanks Clubber, that's exactly the real-world input I was looking for. I certainly plan to take it slow and easy when I do take it off. Right now, I don't have to do anything. In fact, if the pin comes back to life, i won't have to do anything then as the mud doesn't affect anything in the machine. The only circumstance where I'd need to remove the mud (and lift channel for that matter) is if i decide to frame the backglass.

    #13 8 years ago

    Let us know when you get the power cord and fuses replaced and try to turn her on. I'm terribly interested for some reason. Keep an extinguisher at the ready!

    #14 8 years ago

    If it truly just mud then it should come off with no issues. I would rather have it off then have whatever acids/chemicals in the mud slowly attacking the artwork.
    When I say gently, I mean I pretty much just drag the towel over the back. No force on it at all. You will be suprised how much dirt will lift off a seemingly clean backglass.

    #15 8 years ago
    Quoted from SealClubber:

    I would rather have it off then have whatever acids/chemicals in the mud slowly attacking the artwork.

    Good point. Guess I'm back to my plan of using a dropper and Qtips to reconstitute and remove it bit by bit

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