The fans are not factory and are considered a hack.
-Mike

Are you sure you have an overheating issue? How did you come to this conclusion?
These machines are designed to run for long periods of time in arcades.
-Mike

The little one looks like it came out of a toy robot with a propeller atop its head and couldn't keep an overheated gnat cool in springtime.

Game didn't come with the fans and unless you live near the equator with no A/C, doesn't need them. Definitely disconnect.

Check Coil Pulse Power in standard settings. Should be at least normal. Setting to hard may help. If power is still fading, you need to check voltages on the affected coils when they go weak. Look for burnt/ loose/ rough looking connectors on power supply and PPB boards.

Maybe somebody put them in to try to fix the 'weak coils' problem but then somebody else goofed with their power connection? Can't see where they would be significantly blocking the vents to any effect. What happens if you just let the game sit powered up for 1/2 hour without playing, does it then also play weakly? Or same but with the backbox opened up for the 1/2 hour? And maybe disconnect those fans first in case how they were wired is honking things up.

Is it just me or does the one on the right look an awful lot like the prop on the plane in Tommy?

Now that you mention it.
-Mike

Was the game made for the USA or another country (like Japan ??)

I can't look at that 'Tommy' fan without laughing now. I mean look at it, it's like it was intentionally done as a comedy bit. And the other one looks like something out of an old slide projector or a portable vacuum tube reel-to-reel tape recorder or something. The guy couldn't dig up one or two salvage computer case cooling fans that he could just bolt right over the vent holes instead of these goofy contraptions and that mounting hardware?

Maybe they were put there to simulate a pleasant ocean breeze in the area as you play? I would replace one with a water pistol rigged to spray a nice ocean mist out of the back of the machine as well. The machine may still run hot, but you'll never have a better day than a day at the beach

I think Star Trek did come with a fan but was removed on mine.

I can't find anything in the schematics. I would think it would be shown if it were factory.
I have purchased used machines that have had a 12v computer fan retrofitted inside the bottom of cab.
Pulling air from under cab and blowing it up through head out to the top back vents.
-Mike

Check the transformer's wiring and compare with the manual on page 81.

Screenshot_20210705-161414_Adobe Acrobat.jpg

Honestly, it may be factory installed then.
I remember reading somewhere that the first game exported to Japan was Data Easts Tommy. As that had 3 motors, it got electronics certification for pinball machine containing 3 motors.
For games exported after that, it was cheaper to add extra motors than get a new certification.

Do check the jumper wiring as mentioned by Roamin. It is possible that the transformer could still be jumpered for Japanese voltages which could account for weak flippers, kickers, etc.

Here's a post from 2002 explaining the motors for Japan:
https://groups.google.com/g/rec.games.pinball/c/IZLLYlpR3Ts/m/DRuoWrELyWIJ

(and after reading this - does your game has a shaker motor too ?

As your game has a label with Japanese markings on it and original Data East motors, that seems enough proof ?
Check the label with serial number too if it has an indication of country (inside cabinet, right side, or outer backside of cabinet).

Just look at it, all the wiring looks original too.
If an operator were to add this as a hack, they would use cheaper motors (cpu fans that cost $10; not a complete Tommy motor that costs like $100), and would just hack it together with speaker wire or other electrical wiring laying around and solder it on somewhere, he would definitely not do all the trouble of finding and continuing the original colored wiring and use the correct type of molex connectors. (Unless you're someone like HEP who has all the correct colored wiring laying around, but there are not many people in the world who have.)

I think you can be 99 percent sure the machine left the factory like this with additional motors installed.

You need to get a meter out and check the voltage.

You're actually interested in looking at those 2 black wires at the end of the connector.

The 1st (black, wire #1) wire from the transformer should be connected to the LIVE wire of the 110v line.

The 2nd (black , wire #2) wire from the transformer should be jumped to the 5th wire (wire #3) by one of the black wires.

The 4th (orange, wire #9) wire from the transformer should be jumped to the 8th (white orange, wire #8) wire.

The 9th (wire #7) wire from the transformer should be connected to NEUTRAL of the 110v line.

Post a few pictures of the connector up close if you need help to figure it out.

pin7.png

Yes, that's the correct wiring for 110v. If you place you meter on AC Volts (wavy line) and measure the white and black (wire #1 and wire #7), is it around 110v?

I would guess the measurement is across pins that don't match the pinouts in pictures in posts 18 & 28.
Can you provide a photo of the jumper locations in the connector at the bottom of picture in post 25 -- the connector with the two black wires?
A photo to show which positions the wires are inserted into.

If you measure the voltage from the wall where you plug the machine, you do have 110 at the wall? If so, you need to follow the wires from the plug itself, to the inside of the machine and see if there is anything in between the 110v coming in and your transformer.. 66.6 volts seems like exactly half what you should be measuring, making me think there is a second transformer in the machine, that what meant to power 220 to 110 first before entering the transformer you've checked. If such a transformer is installed, a 120v line would drop to 60 volts.

So you need to figure out what is connected between the wall and that transformer. If you don't measure 110v at the transformer the problem starts there.

Looking at your 3rd photo - the two black jumper wires in connector are in the correct positions for 115VAC.
Your hot wire is gray and neutral is yellow. Strange choice of colors.
Difficult to tell if other wires are in right positions but if they're original than they should be OK.

You can get readings for your incoming power at the service outlet mounted on the metal panel.
You can get readings for your power into transformer at the gray and yellow wires at the plug with the two black jumper wires.
Careful with meters in these areas - 120VAC can knock you on your ass... or worse.

Appears to be a problem with the meter.
Once in awhile, you can pick off a perfectly good Fluke 77 on ebay for about $20.

You can switch the meter to 600v ac to test as well.

Or place the meter on continuity ( the speaker icon at the bottom between 200 ohms and HFE and touch the probes together, you should hear a beep and read something really close to 0. If it's far off 0 your probes might be damaged. If it's close, it means your probes are good.

Set it back to 200 VAC and try and measure a known working outlet in your house. Make sure you read around 120v. This would indicate that the probes and meter are working properly.

Next go back to your pinball, and measure the outlet where it is connected. If its 120, follow the cable inside until it gets to the power switch. Check that 120v is present on both sides of the switch.

Then go on to the line filter. It should be 120v on both sides, the input and output.

And so on. This should show you where the voltage is dropping to 66v (assuming your meter was correctly reading that 66v and the meter isn't acting up)

The outlet in the wall reads 150v?

Or your meter is sub-par.

What are the cycles reading? Should be 60 on the dot which is more important than the volts being off a bit if true.

I am 99.99999% confident your meter is set or calibrated wrong. It is NOT possible that you are receiving 150VAC MAINS in Cincinnati, Ohio.

That’s more like it! I’ll take user error over actual home electrical problem any day of the week. Glad you figured it out.