(Topic ID: 137572)

Back in time! Time Machine club.


By Blackbeard

4 years ago



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  • 307 posts
  • 82 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 days ago by JBK
  • Topic is favorited by 39 Pinsiders

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#72 3 years ago

Just acquired a Time Machine in super condition and should have read the posts here before purchasing new, stock coils. Yikes! I will be installing the FL11630s to save the ramps. Using the stock coils will result in crushed ramps in no time.

Question about the PPB: Mine has a blown ECG393 transistor that runs the left side kicker and it seems to be an obsolete part. Does anyone know the substitute part for it? Is there a better solution when replacing it?

#75 3 years ago

I just purchased a Time Machine in pretty decent shape, but it had no cover on the right ramp. Here are some pics of one I made from plexiglass. I cut the basic shape with a rotary saw blade mounted on a dremel tool. I then completed the shape using a sanding drum on the dremel. The edges were sanded and then flame polished. I used an electric heat gun to make the bends and put a slight "hump" in it over the ball path so the balls don't get stuck. I saved the template if anyone is interested.

Also, at the far left of the third picture you can see one of the ball gates at the top of the playfield. It was missing the wireform and I couldn't find one at any of the usual sources so I made it out of a bicycle spoke. It worked quite well since a spoke is springy steel that can be bent, with some effort, without breaking.

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2 weeks later
#85 3 years ago

I am getting ready to shop my Time Machine and install LEDs on the playfield. Does anyone have pictures of their Time Machine with LEDs or a "map" of the playfield showing what they used for colors and the type of light?

1 week later
#91 3 years ago

I had one FL-11630 coil (about 5.0 ohms resistance for the power coil) that was with the machine when I got it. I installed it with the rest of the set-up remaining stock (no change to the caps, EOS switch, coil stop, wiring, etc.).

For the other coil, I did an experiment: I used the stock DE coil (090-5011-00 which has about 3.3 ohms resistance for the power coil), snipped the coil wire where it attached to the lug, soldered on a piece of 22 gauge wire from and old flipper coil, wrapped the outside of the coil to achieve about a 5.0 ohm resistance and resoldered the wire to the lug. The result is a really fat coil that barely fits in the flipper mechanism but performs pretty much like the FL-11630. For all of that work, I saved $10.50 + shipping (woo-hoo)!

Bottom line: Put in the FL-11630 for both flippers. It has enough power to shoot the ramps without crushing them.

#93 3 years ago

Post pictures of your playfield and LEDs. I am getting close to redoing my playfield and I am looking for ideas on the lighting.

#96 3 years ago

I recently did a very inexpensive (about $35) upgrade to the sound on my Time Machine and it turned out great. Before I get started I want to express thanks to fellow Pinsider TheKorn for his help and suggestions with the board work described below. There is no way I would have attempted this without him!

Pyle speakers were installed: A pair of 4" coaxials in the head and a 6" subwoofer in the cabinet. The subwoofer went right in with no alterations. The stock speakers in the head unit are 4" x 10" and are a little tougher to find (and more expensive) than the 4 inchers, so it was necessary to cut an adapter out of a 1/4" thick piece of wood, which was then painted flat black. I used plywood because that's what I had lying around. Hardboard might be easier to work with and paint.

To get more sound to the subwoofer I removed R10, put in two machined sockets and plugged in a small daughter board containing the original 180 ohm resistor and a 1k ohm trimmer connected in series. The daughter board also has two 10 nfd capacitors (in parallel to get to 20 nfd total) across the total resistance. The trimmer is adjusted to about 1k ohms of total resistance. The capacitors are apparently there to limit the sound to only low frequencies going to the sub. How does that work? I don't know but I read about it on another thread so I thought that I would give it a try.

Note that the pictures of the board work show 1) BEFORE - with R10 in place, 2) R10 removed and sockets installed 3) The daughter board plugged into the sockets where R10 was located. I also socketed the 180 ohm resistor on the daughter board. If I want to reverse this hack, all that is necessary is to unplug the daughter board and plug the 180 ohm resistor back into the sockets at R10. I have also saved the stock speakers so those can also be put back in, if necessary. None of the speaker openings were altered.

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#98 3 years ago
Quoted from Djude:

Awesome hack. I've thought about upgrading speakers, but now I'm worried that I need to do boardwalk as well.... Is this necessary when you upgrade speakers, or just when you are trying to isolate more bass to the sub? Thanks.

The resistor hack results in more volume to the sub relative to the back box speakers. I added the trimmer pot to allow for some adjustment. The capacitors are supposed to limit the frequencies to the sub to only the lows (I don't understand the electronics behind it!). You can achieve the same thing (probably more elegantly) by installing a cross-over on the sub and using an L-pad to control the volume to the speakers in the back box (use the "master" volume control in your pin to turn the volume up or down as you always do, but use the L-pad to reduce the volume to the back box speakers to have a relatively higher bass volume). If you buy a speaker kit, it will include an L-pad and there will be a cross-over on the sub.

Here is a link to a project a guy did on a Williams WPC game. The idea is the same for your machine.

http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_replacement.html

The coax speakers in the back box make a huge difference. You are able to hear sounds that weren't noticeable before. An 8" sub would be great, but I didn't want to cut the cabinet hole larger or use an adapter (an 8" sub with a 6" hole??).

#104 3 years ago
Quoted from cjs001:

Curious how everyone has their flippers adjusted relative to the playfield flipper markers. I was able to boot up the game today and check all the work. I cannot get the left flipper to hit the right upper ramp. Any pointers on ideal flipper position for this game is appreciated.

I tend to align the flipper bats so there is an imaginary straight line through the bat and the lane divider. I can shoot the right ramp with no problem. (I'm in the process of shopping my TM).

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#108 3 years ago
Quoted from cjs001:

Finally finished the work on TM. Installed LEDs and put the FL11630 flipper coils in, and gave it a deep cleaning. Managed to get the Mylar almost clear again, looks a ton better then the pics I posted of it when we purchased it last fall. Last thing I'd like to do is disable the knocker because you can barley hear the chimes over it. I cannot read schematics, does anyone know which wire I need to remove from the molex connector in the back box?

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Just clip one of the wires at the knocker solenoid. No more knocker.

#109 3 years ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

Just clip one of the wires at the knocker solenoid. No more knocker.

Quoted from cjs001:

Finally finished the work on TM. Installed LEDs and put the FL11630 flipper coils in, and gave it a deep cleaning. Managed to get the Mylar almost clear again, looks a ton better then the pics I posted of it when we purchased it last fall. Last thing I'd like to do is disable the knocker because you can barley hear the chimes over it. I cannot read schematics, does anyone know which wire I need to remove from the molex connector in the back box?

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I forgot to mention: The pin looks great! Have fun; it's a great game.

2 weeks later
#110 3 years ago

Here are some pic's of a protector I made for the center divider on the left ramps for TM (mine had a small crack starting). I used polished stainless steel and had three blanks bent with different radii so that I had one that would fit correctly. After fabrication was done with a dremel cut-off wheel and sanding disk (for the edges), it was a very good friction fit and I further secured it with double-sided tape on the back side. It matches the others quite well and will protect my nice ramps!

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#112 3 years ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

The coax speakers in the back box make a huge difference. You are able to hear sounds that weren't noticeable before. An 8" sub would be great, but I didn't want to cut the cabinet hole larger or use an adapter (an 8" sub with a 6" hole??).

I decided to cut the hole larger and put in an 8" woofer. The difference is not huge, but it is noticeable.

#114 3 years ago
Quoted from Djude:

That ramp protector looks great. I bent mine by hand using vice grips and pliers... and it looks like it. Any tips on how to get bend like that?
thanks.

Sorry, no magic. I have a brother-in-law who owns an HVAC business. One of his guys bent several blanks for me (he also provided the SS from scraps) based upon my spec's with increasingly bigger radii. How they did it............I don't know; except to say they bend metal all the time. I would think that you could bend it in a vise clamped between two pieces of wood so that it wouldn't get scratched.

#117 3 years ago

Very impressive. A listing of materials and a how-to instructional would be great.

#120 3 years ago
Quoted from fordtudoor:

You need an enclosure. The bottom pinball cabinet is your enclosure. Ideally it is too big but it will work. My enclosure is ideal for my operating parameters.

What is the size of the enclosure? (L x W x H)

8 months later
#137 2 years ago
Quoted from robotron:

the warp lighting under the ramp not working.light board and connection to board is good, anybody have any tips i would appreciate it.

Have you run the coil test to see if they flash?

1 month later
#148 2 years ago
Quoted from Barakawins1:

Can someone kindly send a 600 DPI scan of the slingshot plastics? I'm trying to make a set and need a scan of both.
PM me if someone has a file of the scan or can shoot over one.

I sent a scan of the slingshot plastics. Maybe Barakawins1 will be successful in making some.

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