Woodcliff Lake, NJ
If anyone has a Time Machine for sale. PM me.
(Topic ID: 137572)
Linked Games
Time Machine
Data East, 1988
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Quoted from TheKorn:4) DETM is the only game I ever sold that I miss and would re-buy if I found a nice one.
Anything to trade i may want?
Curious how everyone has their flippers adjusted relative to the playfield flipper markers. I was able to boot up the game today and check all the work. I cannot get the left flipper to hit the right upper ramp. Any pointers on ideal flipper position for this game is appreciated.
Quoted from cjs001:Curious how everyone has their flippers adjusted relative to the playfield flipper markers. I was able to boot up the game today and check all the work. I cannot get the left flipper to hit the right upper ramp. Any pointers on ideal flipper position for this game is appreciated.
I tend to align the flipper bats so there is an imaginary straight line through the bat and the lane divider. I can shoot the right ramp with no problem. (I'm in the process of shopping my TM).
Quoted from FiatsRUs:I tend to align the flipper bats so there is an imaginary straight line through the bat and the lane divider. I can shoot the right ramp with no problem. (I'm in the process of shopping my TM).
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Thank you!
Finally finished the work on TM. Installed LEDs and put the FL11630 flipper coils in, and gave it a deep cleaning. Managed to get the Mylar almost clear again, looks a ton better then the pics I posted of it when we purchased it last fall. Last thing I'd like to do is disable the knocker because you can barley hear the chimes over it. I cannot read schematics, does anyone know which wire I need to remove from the molex connector in the back box?
Quoted from cjs001:Finally finished the work on TM. Installed LEDs and put the FL11630 flipper coils in, and gave it a deep cleaning. Managed to get the Mylar almost clear again, looks a ton better then the pics I posted of it when we purchased it last fall. Last thing I'd like to do is disable the knocker because you can barley hear the chimes over it. I cannot read schematics, does anyone know which wire I need to remove from the molex connector in the back box?
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Just clip one of the wires at the knocker solenoid. No more knocker.
Quoted from FiatsRUs:Just clip one of the wires at the knocker solenoid. No more knocker.
Quoted from cjs001:Finally finished the work on TM. Installed LEDs and put the FL11630 flipper coils in, and gave it a deep cleaning. Managed to get the Mylar almost clear again, looks a ton better then the pics I posted of it when we purchased it last fall. Last thing I'd like to do is disable the knocker because you can barley hear the chimes over it. I cannot read schematics, does anyone know which wire I need to remove from the molex connector in the back box?
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I forgot to mention: The pin looks great! Have fun; it's a great game.
2 weeks later
Here are some pic's of a protector I made for the center divider on the left ramps for TM (mine had a small crack starting). I used polished stainless steel and had three blanks bent with different radii so that I had one that would fit correctly. After fabrication was done with a dremel cut-off wheel and sanding disk (for the edges), it was a very good friction fit and I further secured it with double-sided tape on the back side. It matches the others quite well and will protect my nice ramps!
Goodna
Quoted from FiatsRUs:The coax speakers in the back box make a huge difference. You are able to hear sounds that weren't noticeable before. An 8" sub would be great, but I didn't want to cut the cabinet hole larger or use an adapter (an 8" sub with a 6" hole??).
I decided to cut the hole larger and put in an 8" woofer. The difference is not huge, but it is noticeable.
Quoted from FiatsRUs:Here are some pic's of a protector I made for the center divider on the left ramps for TM (mine had a small crack starting). I used polished stainless steel and had three blanks bent with different radii so that I had one that would fit correctly. After fabrication was done with a dremel cut-off wheel and sanding disk (for the edges), it was a very good friction fit and I further secured it with double-sided tape on the back side. It matches the others quite well and will protect my nice ramps!
That ramp protector looks great. I bent mine by hand using vice grips and pliers... and it looks like it. Any tips on how to get bend like that?
thanks.
Quoted from Djude:That ramp protector looks great. I bent mine by hand using vice grips and pliers... and it looks like it. Any tips on how to get bend like that?
thanks.
Sorry, no magic. I have a brother-in-law who owns an HVAC business. One of his guys bent several blanks for me (he also provided the SS from scraps) based upon my spec's with increasingly bigger radii. How they did it............I don't know; except to say they bend metal all the time. I would think that you could bend it in a vise clamped between two pieces of wood so that it wouldn't get scratched.
I thought I would share a few pictures of my museum-quality "Time Machine". I bought this game just for the tunes. To enhance the quality I replaced the backbox speakers with Pyle coaxial speakers. I replaced the mid-range with a Pyle 8" sub-woofer. I had an on-board amplifier but to reduce weight I moved it externally. All speaker wire was replaced with shielded 16-gauge cable. The speakers have low pass and high pass filters where appropriate. A sub-woofer needs an enclosure to operate correctly. There are formulas to determine the ideal size. Dickinson's cookbook on speaker design was helpful, hence the added enclosure. Now she rocks!
There's really not a whole lot to say. I picked the brain of The Korn in Illinois about speaker theory. I don't believe the on-board audio amplifier has enough oomph to drive an 8" or 10" sub-woofer adequately so I chose to use an auxiliary amplifier. I started with an AudioSource model because it is 120VAC. If you look at the second picture you will see I have two control boxes. I plugged the amp. into the second box. I am now going with an external power supply/12VDC car audio amplifier because they have more power. Looking at the second picture again you will notice the Neutrik (made in Switzerland) connectors. They are rated for supply power and feature twist-lok design. Theory suggests that if you hold up a tweeter in mid-air you will hear sound. If you do it for a mid-range speaker, likewise; however, if you hold up a bare sub-woofer you won't hear anything. You need an enclosure. The bottom pinball cabinet is your enclosure. Ideally it is too big but it will work. My enclosure is ideal for my operating parameters. No speaker can reproduce the dynamic range of the human ear. That is why we have the four styles to work in concert to cover the range. We can take this one step further and design a system where certain frequency ranges are prevented from being introduced to a given speaker. Example, we don't want high frequencies going to the sub-woofer. So we introduce a device called a low-pass crossover before the sub that allows only frequencies below 250 Hz (you can pick any number you want) to enter the speaker. Then we do the same thing for the backbox speakers - all frequencies above 250 Hz are permitted to pass. This makes the speaker more efficient, not to mention clearer, because it is not force to reproduce those sounds. The other unresolved question is whether you want these filters before or after the amplifier. The shielded cable was employed to help with noise abatement. I bought everything at Parts_Express.com. They are just up the road about 40 minutes. That's all I got.
Quoted from fordtudoor:You need an enclosure. The bottom pinball cabinet is your enclosure. Ideally it is too big but it will work. My enclosure is ideal for my operating parameters.
What is the size of the enclosure? (L x W x H)
Quoted from Barakawins1:Time Machine main ramp repair..Anyone repair the main star ramp at the entrance? got pics ?
Scroll up this page a bit to the pics that were posted by FlatsRUs. He shows how it can be done. His looks like it was bent professionally, I did mine by hand with a vise and some pliers.. it shows... but just used some cheap sheet metal cut to fit and bent over it. I drilled mine through the top and screwed down through the PF. He attached his with double sided tape I think....
Good luck. Let us know how yours turns out. I'm thinking of redoing mine.... although it works fine....
Quoted from FiatsRUs:What is the size of the enclosure? (L x W x H)
Dickinson's formulas for determining the enclosure are based on volumes. I used an 8" sub-woofer. The only constraint is the height - you have to clear the underside of the playfield. The four sides are mounted directly to the floor of the bottom cabinet. I used 3/4" thick poplar for the sides and lid. The dimensions are external. The assembled height is 7-13/16". The width or going from side to side while facing the machine is exactly 12". The dimension from say coinbox towards the backbox is 11-1/8".
I've noticed most TM have the chrome speaker grill, mine is black. Is that factory or painted or mean a different model? And yeah the star ramp sometimes doesn't register because the ball lifts a little from overpower so i wondered about bending up the switch wire because it doesn't launch it but just enough to not register 100%. Any suggestions?
Quoted from Brazy:I've noticed most TM have the chrome speaker grill, mine is black. Is that factory or painted or mean a different model? And yeah the star ramp sometimes doesn't register because the ball lifts a little from overpower so i wondered about bending up the switch wire because it doesn't launch it but just enough to not register 100%. Any suggestions?
Standard factory issue is a chrome on plastic speaker grille. There was no optional black model. I have seen a lot of disfigured chrome examples over the years. I would guess someone had one of those and painted it.
2 weeks later
Hey Everybody,
Not sure if you have all been contacted by this guy yet or not, but I got a message this morning about a guy that is making ramps for some machines and doing it based on demand..... The link to the thread is here if you are interested in a new Starwarp ramp:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps/page/5
No clue on if this is possible to do based on the different color plastics involved, but chime in if you are interested in seeing what is possible..
2 months later
I'm looking for either of the back ramps for my data east time machine. ANY condition will do, trying to undo a parts machine and bring ti back to life.
Hello Time machine owners and fans.
I'm hoping to join your ranks soon. If anyone has one they're considering moving on, give me a shout.
Thank you.
1 week later
Quoted from DAVE865:had one a for ayear or so just got decals made .great theme
Anyone know who this guy bought decals from? He won't share that info.
2 weeks later
Anyone know a guy who can make the Starwarp Ramp? There is a guy on pinside but he resigned himself to doing it.
2 months later
1 month later
Quoted from FiatsRUs:Have you run the coil test to see if they flash?
yeah no flashing. gonna look more into it this weekend. thanks!
2 weeks later
Seems as if i'm allowed to join the Time Machine club since thursday last week.
I got a nearly fully working one (only the sound is not completely ok, "event" sounds are ok but no background music) in quite good outer condition with some plastics broken. The pin seems to be from Italy (1 play = 500 Lire ) and was then sold to the Netherlands and is now in Germany.
I will post some pictures when i have it at home.
Marco
Can someone kindly send a 600 DPI scan of the slingshot plastics? I'm trying to make a set and need a scan of both.
PM me if someone has a file of the scan or can shoot over one.
1 week later
Does anybody has a good scan of a Time Machine manual? Mine did come without and the manual from ipdb is hardly readable on many pages...
Quoted from fordtudoor:I thought I would share a few pictures of my museum-quality "Time Machine". I bought this game just for the tunes. To enhance the quality I replaced the backbox speakers with Pyle coaxial speakers. I replaced the mid-range with a Pyle 8" sub-woofer. I had an on-board amplifier but to reduce weight I moved it externally. All speaker wire was replaced with shielded 16-gauge cable. The speakers have low pass and high pass filters where appropriate. A sub-woofer needs an enclosure to operate correctly. There are formulas to determine the ideal size. Dickinson's cookbook on speaker design was helpful, hence the added enclosure. Now she rocks!
Sweet!
I have a short but strange question....
When is the background music playing? All the time? Or only on some events?
Background of this question is, that my time machine plays the music corresponding to the year i'm in but only in some few moments.
Quoted from robotron:somebody please make the plastics for the sling and the front jet bumper target.
i also need a sticker for the clear plastic on the playfield- in the middle the time machine car.
Cpr didn't respond to my offer to send over my nos set. If they see this, the offer is still good
Quoted from Barakawins1:Can someone kindly send a 600 DPI scan of the slingshot plastics? I'm trying to make a set and need a scan of both.
PM me if someone has a file of the scan or can shoot over one.
I sent a scan of the slingshot plastics. Maybe Barakawins1 will be successful in making some.
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