(Topic ID: 137572)

Back in time! Time Machine club.


By Blackbeard

4 years ago



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  • 307 posts
  • 82 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by JBK
  • Topic is favorited by 39 Pinsiders

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There are 307 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 7.
#51 4 years ago

Thanks for the help

#52 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I just shopped one. Fairly straight forward and the Ramps are easy to take off.
Biggest thing on this pin is that left ramp. It's generally cracked as data east produced this with really powerful flipper coils.
Make sure the chime unit works, and I would recommend disconnecting the knocker as it activates with the chimes and distorts their sound in my opinion.
The game looks fantastic in LEDs.
I'd say price wise 1000 for a beater. 1300-1600 for a nice one.
And if you found a rare huo one, I'd easily pay 2k plus. It's a rare pin that is very quirky.
Starting to get sentimental as I just sold mine.

Well after a long delay, finally managed to go look at the game. We ended up purchasing it. Will post some pictures in a couple days. It all works, just needs a deep clean of the play field. I will do some mechanic cleaning since it has sat for so long and a flipper rebuild, the left is a bit weak. I have no way of knowing for sure if it was only HUO machine but it seems in too good of shape to not have been one. The cabinet art work is near mint still glossy, one piece of art missing from the head unit, guessing it hit something in moving at one point, serial number sticker still in tact on the right side of the cabinet. Back glass is 10/10. Play field mylar has no bubbling or deep wear anywhere on the game. Almost no wear on in-lane and out-lanes. We are excited to see this all cleaned up.

#55 4 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

both time machines are good games.

Start your own thread!

Data east only

#56 4 years ago

Hey, they both rock. I've owned both for many years. Had NOS ramps and plastics for DE TM. Ended up selling all my extra parts with the machine. I guess Mike P. doesn't have anymore of either. But someone at expo did have the spiral ramp repro'd

#57 4 years ago

How hard is it to remove the backbox on this game? Can't transport it on the side, it'll still be too tall for the car (really need a truck!!) But I will either have to slide the box down or take it off it looks like

#58 4 years ago

Just take pics of what you disconnect and pop it off. Not hard.

#59 4 years ago

Thatnks. I've only taken the heads off a few. Not fun but sometimes I gotta do it

#60 4 years ago

Here are the pics. You will notice copious amounts of wax still on the playfield in some areas. Ended up paying $1500 for the game. The only cracked plastics are the ones in the pic, I will prob recreate them just because I am o.c.d.

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#61 4 years ago

The rest...

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#62 4 years ago

Wow nice find.

Very nice shape.

#63 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Wow nice find.
Very nice

Very nice! I'd love to find one in that condition. Congrats.

#64 4 years ago

nice condition. Glad that wasn't near me. I don't need another pin but I would have been forced to buy that one for $1500.

#65 4 years ago

Can someone measure the legs? Meet to know length. Mine may be too tall

#66 4 years ago

I'm a member! Game is great looking except the silver around the speakers is either painted black or missing. Is there any reproductions of this? Playfield looks great with no wear, needs a little cleaning and leds and it'll look awesome!

1 week later
#67 4 years ago

I may be joining the club if it pans out later tonight.

2 weeks later
#68 4 years ago

Finally ready to start shopping our time machine so we can finally start playing it. Have a few questions
1. Is there a way to weaken the stock flipper coils? The ramps are not damaged yet and I would like to keep it that way. Or should I just replace the entire coil? If so which coil is recommended?
2. Planning to led it while I have it all torn down for deep cleaning. Looking at cointakers premium non ghosting kit. Can you just plug and play LEDs into this game or are some mods needed for the led bulbs.
3. Is there a setting to disable the knocker for the chimes? I agree with OP it doesn't sound that great and takes away from the chimes.

#69 4 years ago

1. Mine had the next weaker coils installed in flippers. Can't recall number.
2. Leds are plug and play on it.
3. I pulled out the wire from the connector in the backbox for the knocker. You'll have to look at manual as I don't have game anymore.

#70 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

1. Mine had the next weaker coils installed in flippers. Can't recall number.
2. Leds are plug and play on it.
3. I pulled out the wire from the connector in the backbox for the knocker. You'll have to look at manual as I don't have game anymore.

Thank you for the speedy response. In post #32 you stated that at least one flipper was Williams FL 11630, and more then likely the other was the same. I suck at understanding all the electrical aspects still, do you know if I would still use the same capacitor that was normally on the original coils or do I need a different one? Thanks again.

#71 4 years ago

Not sure about that. I'd think the same.. but wait for someone else to verify.

2 months later
#72 3 years ago

Just acquired a Time Machine in super condition and should have read the posts here before purchasing new, stock coils. Yikes! I will be installing the FL11630s to save the ramps. Using the stock coils will result in crushed ramps in no time.

Question about the PPB: Mine has a blown ECG393 transistor that runs the left side kicker and it seems to be an obsolete part. Does anyone know the substitute part for it? Is there a better solution when replacing it?

#73 3 years ago

What are you guys using as protection for the star warp ramp? I see a couple pics with what looks like a metal saddle between the outer and inner ramp plastic.

#74 3 years ago
Quoted from Rustyck:

What are you guys using as protection for the star warp ramp? I see a couple pics with what looks like a metal saddle between the outer and inner ramp plastic.

Previous owner of mine added a custom "Cliffy" type protector there on mine. It's just a piece of polished sheet metal cut and bent to fit in place by friction there. He added some folded cardboard under that area to keep the plastic stiff from behind. Seems to protect that area of the ramp pretty well and looks good.

#75 3 years ago

I just purchased a Time Machine in pretty decent shape, but it had no cover on the right ramp. Here are some pics of one I made from plexiglass. I cut the basic shape with a rotary saw blade mounted on a dremel tool. I then completed the shape using a sanding drum on the dremel. The edges were sanded and then flame polished. I used an electric heat gun to make the bends and put a slight "hump" in it over the ball path so the balls don't get stuck. I saved the template if anyone is interested.

Also, at the far left of the third picture you can see one of the ball gates at the top of the playfield. It was missing the wireform and I couldn't find one at any of the usual sources so I made it out of a bicycle spoke. It worked quite well since a spoke is springy steel that can be bent, with some effort, without breaking.

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#76 3 years ago

Hi guys, I just picked up a time machine. It was working 100% when I played it in the past and when I picked it up.

Got it home and it says:

BALL MISSING

I did a quick look and the wires seem to be connected to the microswitches and nothing seems out of place.

Guess I should test the microswitches for functionality and make sure the wires have continuity every direction (in that area)?

Curious if anyone has an opinion or has run into this.

#77 3 years ago

Just went into test mode.
I believe trough 3 (closest to the shooter lane), doesn't not close in test mode when I activate the switch.

Wire continuity seems to be good. The diode measures as shorted, maybe that is correct not sure.(in circuit, as is).

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#78 3 years ago

I pulled that switch and removed the diode, both test good when not connected to each other.

If one of you Time Machine owners gets a sec can you look and see if your ball 3 trough switch has a diode on it? The one closest to the shooter lane.

#79 3 years ago

Ok i can tell that the diode belongs.

It's the damnedest thing, in test mode this switch will not register. I even just shorted the ground to the trough 3 wire and nothing. Continuity is there in both direction on both the ground and the green/white trough 3 wire.

Stumped

#80 3 years ago

Ok i kept with it and can only determine that the wire had a bad connection at the connector at the backbox.

I "tugged" it into place a little firmer, now I'm back up and running. Guess i gotta drop a new diode on that switch tomorrow.

#81 3 years ago

Sometimes when a backbox is lowered for transport, a wire in a backbox connector will pull out a bit.

I've had this happen a few times.

#82 3 years ago

Curious one that was happening prior to picking up the game, but didnt raise any red flags. Until......
I'm looking at the apron and it reads ...right flipper changes top lanes....

My right flipper does not change the top lanes. It also does not scroll during initials entering, only the left flipper scrolls through the characters.

Any ideas?

#83 3 years ago

Yesssss this was my first machine ))

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#84 3 years ago

wow. Nice shape!

#85 3 years ago

I am getting ready to shop my Time Machine and install LEDs on the playfield. Does anyone have pictures of their Time Machine with LEDs or a "map" of the playfield showing what they used for colors and the type of light?

#86 3 years ago

I posted pics on this thread I believe.

I used all comet LEDs. White frosted in the gi and color matched non ghosting in inserts.

1 week later
#87 3 years ago

Finally after several months since purchasing, started to do a full playfield tear down to do a deep cleaning of everything and install LEDs so we can finally start playing this pin. After removing the playfield "bow tie" found this note. Does this mean this machine was #4 in production?

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#88 3 years ago
Quoted from cjs001:

Finally after several months since purchasing, started to do a full playfield tear down to do a deep cleaning of everything and install LEDs so we can finally start playing this pin. After removing the playfield "bow tie" found this note. Does this mean this machine was #4 in production?
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Found another old forum post and learned it is the model number and not the production number.

#89 3 years ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

Just acquired a Time Machine in super condition and should have read the posts here before purchasing new, stock coils. Yikes! I will be installing the FL11630s to save the ramps. Using the stock coils will result in crushed ramps in no time.
Question about the PPB: Mine has a blown ECG393 transistor that runs the left side kicker and it seems to be an obsolete part. Does anyone know the substitute part for it? Is there a better solution when replacing it?

Did you end up installing the other coils? If so did you need to do any other changes for the coil or was it a simple swap. Capacitors remained the same? Thanks for any guidance.

#90 3 years ago
Quoted from cjs001:

Found another old forum post and learned it is the model number and not the production number.

Yes, fourth game from Data East.
Laser War, Secret Service, and Torpedo Alley were prior.

#91 3 years ago

I had one FL-11630 coil (about 5.0 ohms resistance for the power coil) that was with the machine when I got it. I installed it with the rest of the set-up remaining stock (no change to the caps, EOS switch, coil stop, wiring, etc.).

For the other coil, I did an experiment: I used the stock DE coil (090-5011-00 which has about 3.3 ohms resistance for the power coil), snipped the coil wire where it attached to the lug, soldered on a piece of 22 gauge wire from and old flipper coil, wrapped the outside of the coil to achieve about a 5.0 ohm resistance and resoldered the wire to the lug. The result is a really fat coil that barely fits in the flipper mechanism but performs pretty much like the FL-11630. For all of that work, I saved $10.50 + shipping (woo-hoo)!

Bottom line: Put in the FL-11630 for both flippers. It has enough power to shoot the ramps without crushing them.

#92 3 years ago

Happy I found this club. Love this pin. I've thought about selling it multiple times, but I always come back, because i love the theme, the call outs and the lights. I've added some tasteful leds and they really take it to the next level. Got some great ideas for more on this thread, so thanks to everyone.

I just had to have my audio board recapped and right audio amp replaced. If anyone is noticing the callouts aren't working correctly this may be your issue. I was told that this was an issue with the DE games. Works great now.

#93 3 years ago

Post pictures of your playfield and LEDs. I am getting close to redoing my playfield and I am looking for ideas on the lighting.

#94 3 years ago

Had one, sold it, miss it!

#95 3 years ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

Post pictures of your playfield and LEDs. I am getting close to redoing my playfield and I am looking for ideas on the lighting.

I'll post some pics in a week or so once I am all done. Game is totally torn down right now, putting cointakers led kit into the game. Cannot wait to have the game up and running so we can play it.

#96 3 years ago

I recently did a very inexpensive (about $35) upgrade to the sound on my Time Machine and it turned out great. Before I get started I want to express thanks to fellow Pinsider TheKorn for his help and suggestions with the board work described below. There is no way I would have attempted this without him!

Pyle speakers were installed: A pair of 4" coaxials in the head and a 6" subwoofer in the cabinet. The subwoofer went right in with no alterations. The stock speakers in the head unit are 4" x 10" and are a little tougher to find (and more expensive) than the 4 inchers, so it was necessary to cut an adapter out of a 1/4" thick piece of wood, which was then painted flat black. I used plywood because that's what I had lying around. Hardboard might be easier to work with and paint.

To get more sound to the subwoofer I removed R10, put in two machined sockets and plugged in a small daughter board containing the original 180 ohm resistor and a 1k ohm trimmer connected in series. The daughter board also has two 10 nfd capacitors (in parallel to get to 20 nfd total) across the total resistance. The trimmer is adjusted to about 1k ohms of total resistance. The capacitors are apparently there to limit the sound to only low frequencies going to the sub. How does that work? I don't know but I read about it on another thread so I thought that I would give it a try.

Note that the pictures of the board work show 1) BEFORE - with R10 in place, 2) R10 removed and sockets installed 3) The daughter board plugged into the sockets where R10 was located. I also socketed the 180 ohm resistor on the daughter board. If I want to reverse this hack, all that is necessary is to unplug the daughter board and plug the 180 ohm resistor back into the sockets at R10. I have also saved the stock speakers so those can also be put back in, if necessary. None of the speaker openings were altered.

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#97 3 years ago

Awesome hack. I've thought about upgrading speakers, but now I'm worried that I need to do boardwalk as well.... Is this necessary when you upgrade speakers, or just when you are trying to isolate more bass to the sub? Thanks.

#98 3 years ago
Quoted from Djude:

Awesome hack. I've thought about upgrading speakers, but now I'm worried that I need to do boardwalk as well.... Is this necessary when you upgrade speakers, or just when you are trying to isolate more bass to the sub? Thanks.

The resistor hack results in more volume to the sub relative to the back box speakers. I added the trimmer pot to allow for some adjustment. The capacitors are supposed to limit the frequencies to the sub to only the lows (I don't understand the electronics behind it!). You can achieve the same thing (probably more elegantly) by installing a cross-over on the sub and using an L-pad to control the volume to the speakers in the back box (use the "master" volume control in your pin to turn the volume up or down as you always do, but use the L-pad to reduce the volume to the back box speakers to have a relatively higher bass volume). If you buy a speaker kit, it will include an L-pad and there will be a cross-over on the sub.

Here is a link to a project a guy did on a Williams WPC game. The idea is the same for your machine.

http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_replacement.html

The coax speakers in the back box make a huge difference. You are able to hear sounds that weren't noticeable before. An 8" sub would be great, but I didn't want to cut the cabinet hole larger or use an adapter (an 8" sub with a 6" hole??).

#99 3 years ago

Happy to help.

A few thoughts...

1) You don't get any more power by doing this. The game has three separate amplifiers in it, one for left, one for right, one for the cabinet. Essentially this turns up the multiplier on the cabinet amplifier, so it gets more power sooner than the left and right speakers as you turn the game's master volume up. Think of it as balancing the cabinet and panel speakers and you have the right idea. If you crank the volume too far, you'll still go into clipping (distortion) and that's bad news.

2) The capacitor acts as a low pass filter. I'm being a little too lazy to run the numbers, but suffice it to say that they allow everything below frequency X to go to the amplifier, and everything above frequency X gets trashed. Incidentally this is exactly what you want to happen for a cabinet speaker. (And the opposite of what you'd want for panel speakers.)

3) This isn't the only way to achieve either of these effects. Personally I prefer to do things with a crossover and rheostat after the amplifier (instead of before it), mainly because those are components I tend to have on hand. Both approaches are equally valid (though technically before the amplifier is "better" from an ideal point of view), so if you're afraid of doing board work then the typical method is just fine and will yield roughly equivalent results.

4) DETM is the only game I ever sold that I miss and would re-buy if I found a nice one.

#100 3 years ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

An 8" sub would be great, but I didn't want to cut the cabinet hole larger or use an adapter (an 8" sub with a 6" hole??).

Your intuition serves you well. http://www.thekorn.net/speakers/cutcabinet/

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