Minwax Polycrylic protective finish clear gloss.

John

First you need to stabilize those areas that are already starting to flake. I have used the liquid control Crazy Glue and Saran Wrap method with success. After that I would do a light coat of Triple Thick and then one or two heavier coats of Triple Thick.

Alberto

This. At the very least, if you don't address the lifting art, you'll want to start with very thin coats. If you just start with laying it on thick the peeling art will bend and make things worse.

I'd just cut out some squares of mylar and slap it on.

People really overthink backglass preservation in my opinion.

Mylar is cheap, easy to work with, you don't need to wear a mask and do it outside, and there's really no downside, unless you are worried that it will dry, brittle, and fall off long after you are dead (and this is nothing that concerns me).

Anybody else old enough to remember Silverball Amusements "Cover Your Glass"? I think I bought it from Pinball Resource (or back then maybe they were called Silverball Amusements). I still have a half a can of it in my garage, used it on a few glasses back in the 80s or 90s. Still sloshing around in there so probably still useable, but it had toluene in it and you had to ventilate the place well when you used it and took forever to fully cure. I still have one glass I did and it held up other than a little fine crazing over a couple of the score displays. Triple Thick is the way to go now.

This stuff was awful. I believe it was actually a product intended to glaze rocks with?

And you were supposed to SQUIRT it on with an oil can as per the instructions, no spraying thin coats. I just poured it outta the can. So the glass had to be perfectly level or the stuff would start oozing and shifting on ya because it took so damn long to dry. Maybe it coulda been sprayed if you had the equipment and/or it was thinned but I don't know, pretty thick goopy stuff.

I learned the technique from a post by ForceFlow from a couple years back. You want to use the Loctite Liquid Control super glue and Saran Wrap. Have some toothpicks handy for flake manipulation. And have your Saran Wrap pieces pre-cut and ready to go.

One small area at a time, drip the super glue onto the flaking area, try not to touch the flakes with the super glue tip. Then cover with the Saran Wrap, make sure you lay it down nice and flat with as few wrinkles as possible. Then gently smooth out the flakes and cracks through the Saran Wrap. Once done, let it dry 24 hours, then gently peel the Saran Wrap. The paint flakes will be glued down.

Start on a small area so you get used to the amount of glue needed. I would also do a search for Forceflow’s post

Hope this helps

Alberto

I thought the same thing, but the super glue does not bond to the Saran Wrap. You do need to wait the 24 hours.

I’ve done three backglasses already with this technique and I’ve had a tiny flake come off once. The backglasses I have done are a Domino, a Gorgar, and the Big Deal I’m working on

Let me find photos of the Gorgar.

To convince myself, when I did the Domino (first one) I started in a tiny area off in a corner

Alberto

These are the before and after photos for Gorgar. Worst areas were under the demon’s armpits. The flakes were super curled and we were able to flatten one side really well, the other one was too far gone but it looks better. After this, the BG was triple thicked.

Alberto

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Is this a self adhesive Mylar product or are you using super glue?

If you adhere Mylar to paint that is falling off, what keeps the paint with the Mylar from sticking any better than the paint by itself? Painting wallpaper that is coming off the wall doesn’t fix the paper to the wall…

Playdium

I like the Krylon triple thick

Alberto