A few weeks ago my Baby Pac-man died. The problem turned out to be battery corrosion on the MPU board which was my fault. I have had the game for 17 years and put a new Nicad 3 cell cordless phone battery on the MPU back in 2000 which had been keeping the high score up until 6 months ago but I knew better and should have replaced the battery years ago. The game once again is working and I made a 4 part video series showing the process I went though to repair the game. Here's the youtube link if anyone is interested.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLQmsA4osgEEAAJtx82NrFJ780yrbOkk4K

Their was a guy that re-screened Baby Pac playfields back in 2001. You had to strip down your playfield,sand it and ship it to him and he had it re-screened and shipped back. I sent him one and I still have it. It looks great but he made a mistake, never found out if he did it on purpose or if it was just a mistake. He did a great job except
that he misspelled "energizers" as "enegizers".
Here is a copy of the post from rec.games.video.arcade
rec.games.video.arcade ›
FS:NEW BABY PAC MAN PLAYFIELD ART SCREENED YOUR WOOD OR MYLAR!!!
1 post by 1 author

[email protected]

5/31/01

Hey,
I've decided to silkscreen directly to my wooden playfield for a
perfect restoration. I'll be doing them in 1 day only, so if you want
to get your playfield done with perfect color matching using the
original silkscreen method used at the factory, now is the time to do
it. It's $125 + return shipping.
I scanned my old one and carefully traced over it using Adobe
Illustrator (EPS vector art). So there's great color separations and
color trapping just like the original. I'm a graphic designer by trade
and it still took me over 40 hours to do--no detail was ignored.

Remove your playfield--take off flippers, remove light bulbs and
rails, etc. Leave the wiring and light sockets etc on (no sense in
complicating it by removing wiring!). Sand the old art off and make
the playfield smooth (final sanding with 800 grit). The colored light
lenses will also be sanded (I used 1500 grit sandpaper to wet sand
mine smooth) without removal so that the new lettering can be screened
on. Leave the wood bare and send it to me. When I get everyone's in,
I'll take them to press. A clear coat will actually be silkscreened on
in addition to a hardener at no extra cost. It's probably tougher than
the original by far.

I'll also be doing mylar the same day if you don't want to do it to
wood (of course stripping is still necessary though). Mylar is $95+$8
shipping.

Email me for my shipping info and questions: [email protected]

Thanks in advance for helping make this project possible!!!
jaysun

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Here ya go

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I did this back in 2000, almost 18 years ago to my Baby Pac man spinners and drop targets. Back then I could not find them. I inkjet printed them on inkjet adhesive vinyl and laminated them with a thick clear adhesive laminate which still looks good today. I also added a little color the the spinner.

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I would be willing to bet that if that's not one I made it was made from the file I created. Back when I made these no one had any unless someone had NOS spinners. I scanned my original spinner which was in real bad condition and used Photo Shop to fill in the missing parts and add the color. I made a few extras and sold a few on Ebay, even shipped a couple over seas and some years later I gave the files to someone who I believe started making and selling them. I also scanned the drop target and made decals for them as well (no one made drop targets back then either) and decals for the back glass as some of the back glasses did not have the arrows at the bottom or the points card.
In the picture is one I had left over I keep for a spare which I never used and is now 17 years old.

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For the connections that have the wire across the IDC connector I found trying to put 2 wires in one pin connector impossible. Their may be a connector that will take a larger wire but what I did was just make a short jumper wire soldered from the 2 wires to one to the pin. You can see how I did it in my video.
You can skip ahead to 31:14 in the video to get to that connector but give the hole video a try. If you like please subscribe and I hope it's helpful.

If your game is working except for the sound then it should be something simple.
You should always start with checking for proper voltages + 5 volt and especially the unregulated 12 volt which powers the audio amp. Check and see if your speaker is good and their is no break in the speaker wires. In your picture their is nothing connected to J5 which is the plug for the speakers. Check the plug and other components for cold solder joints. I assume it's unplugged because you were working on the board but if not that would be your problem. If your sure the speaker is good, test it with an ohm meter or connect another audio source to it to make sure it's good, then work your way back though the circuit. The power amp U-34 (TDA-2002) U-33 op amp(LM3900) U-32 digital to analog converter. Make sure the volume pot is good and turned up. You can inject an audio signal into the input of the amp to see if it's working. The schematics are in the game manual and if you don't have the manual you can find it here.
https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/B/BabyPM.pdf

Theirs no joystick better than the original. You should not mess with perfection. Some things just need to be left alone.