Well, I had my baby a few months ago. Actually brought him home 11/18. A special day for baby pac (refer to flyer)

And...now... it’s time. Anyone else do this recently? Will I ever be finished? I started with the lamp driver headers. And thanks to me checking bulbs with the power on, I blew a 5060. So I replaced that as well.

I thought I was done with the board, but just noticed in one of my pics that I forgot one header. Grrr. I did find some cold solder and hope this clears up my flakiness on an otherwise working Baby Pac. I will be repinning as well.

I’ve already capped the monitor. My sound volume is currently low and rather un-adjustable which just showed up one day. I plan on replacing pots and caps once I get to the vidiot.

I guess I just need some words of encouragement...

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11/18/2018. 36 year old baby.

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Yes, I also replaced the pins on the PCBs. The ones at the bottom edge of my MPU looked particularly corroded.

Yep. Especially if you were replacing bulbs with the power on.
Confirm the socket terminals under the playfield aren't touching anything.
Then check/compare transistors on the Lamp driver. You can use a multimeter on diode test.

I actually blew out that exact transistor myself. I had the power on. Live and learn...
Full disclosure, I've also blown the solenoid fuse when the flipper mechs came in contact with the lock bar.

Possibly time to re-pin connectors and solder new pins to the PCBs.

After a bit my video goes out. (also does not play blind) I turn it off to let it cool down, turn it back on and it's OK.
Intervals happening more frequently lately. I believe TMS chip is going out.

I have a new TMS, but I want to add a fan to it first. Anyone else do this?
I remember some instructions out there somewhere...

Yes! thanks! That's where I saw the instructions earlier.
Wiring looks to be using 12 unregulated between (TP4) and ground (TP3)
How is that fan attached to the chip?

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Also, anybody simply use one of these to help cool the TMS9928?
https://www.amazon.com/NTE-ELECTRONICS-NTE448G-CLIP-PACKAGE/dp/B007Z7QAVY
NTE448G

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My screen would sometimes go black after warming up a bit. Then it would play blind.
TMS9928 chip on vidiot board was overheating starting to fail. It would boot fine (when cold).

I got a new TMS9928 from Arcadeshop and put on a 40pin dip clip on heat sink (NTE448G).
Considered rigging a fan too, but did not.

...not sure if that color test screen would show up though...

dmieczko has original IDC connectors. Your J2 connector has been replaced. One looping wire through the IDC when clipped would result in 2 wires.
What you have going on there is 2 into 1 at each crimp terminal. It does seem to look OK if none of those wires are touching. There's a lot going into that 0.100 connector.

When repining mine I considered tying one wire to the other wire with solder & heat shrink a couple inches away from the connector.
Then crimping only one wire in the terminal.
... but, I think I simply didn't replace the IDC connectors which had a looping through wire.

Anybody have issues with both saucer coils burning up at the same time? I haven’t dug into it too far yet, but both are definitely fried. (.012ohm & .000ohm measurements) What would cause this? Bridge rectifier gone bad?

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Found fuse blown. 43vdc under Playfield. Over fused at 3A SB. Supposed to be 1A SB.

Wondering about A2 voltages. No voltage at TP1 or TP2 because no windings in the transformer. Correct? 54000C9B-C248-4A54-A80B-927C555CC593 (resized).jpeg
Other voltages are OK at TP3,TP4, &TP5(43vdc)

Oops. Not Q39 & Q40. Q38 (for RH saucer) & Q39 (for LH saucer) are the drive transistors. I’ve also got some TIP102 coming for those.

I am wondering. If coils lock on, how does the sleeve melt between the plunger and coil stop. (The plungers were at rest position)
Coils heated up, fuse blew, plungers went back to rest, sleeves then melted/continued to melt?

Understood.

Found Q38 shorted and removed it. Also removed U3 & U5. Washed board. Put in sockets for new CA3081s. Waiting on Marco now. Anyway to check the old CA3081s? Would you guys also replace Q39 in this situation?
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Marco order came Saturday.

I put in the 2 new CA3081 into the sockets I had installed at U3 and U5.
I put in a TIP102 at Q38. I went ahead and replaced Q39 with a TIP102 as well.
Put in new coils/sleeves/diodes (AO-27-1300) at the saucers. (Note: Yellow wires should be to the lug with banded side of diode.)
New 1A SB fuse under playfield for the 43VDC. (fuse location is closest to RH flipper mech)

I initially had no flippers, but quickly found out I had .156 connections in the wrong place at the board.
Even with keys they can fit multiple locations.
Mistake: J7 was behind the board and I had connected J10 at J7. I had nothing at J10.

(I suggest first referencing the photos that were taken of the wiring to the solenoid driver board.)
Correct image is attached. Luckily no harm done.

All back together and working just fine on Saturday night.

Thanks to vec-tor for pointing me in the right direction (to U5)... and hopefully this post will help others out as well.

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I had both speakers on mine do the same. I replaced both speakers.
First check that the speakers are OK, then diagnose from there.

agreed

I loved it. great teamwork. never too early to get the kids involved.