I've been watching this club anxiously awaiting for my baby to arrive. Finally I got one, snagged from a stale Facebook ad I just happened to inquire about!

I made a deal I know this thread would drool over! Bundled with my Baby Pac was a huge spare WORKING board set including 1 Vidiot, 2 extra MPU's 1 extra solenoid driver board, a different Bally lamp board (for parts I guess?) as well as a Vidiot Deluxe for Granny and the Gators (I can dream)

It wouldn't start a game when I bought it and many lamps were locked on.
Got it home after a 10+ hour round trip (should have only been 7... how foolish I was!) and it started almost no issues.

First only the bottom switches worked.
Then the flippers died and only the top half worked. I finagled the connectors, which he said he redid the problematic ones J1-3 and most the playfield bar the right saucer worked!

Xmit 40 kept failing and turns out J1 pin 27, I believe, broke right off completely when I investigated. Thankfully the seller also gave me a complete connector kit with tons of spare connectors and pins!
Honestly most of the IDC connectors are fine and give me no issues, I suspect oxidation on the pins after many years caused the flakey connection errors. Worked them through and now it's playing well!

Tons of lamps were dead or locked on. P C A and the energizers were stuck on. As well as TUN L
The solenoid board he had in there is garbage as it seems. Over half the transistors must be blown. The spare he gave me is nearly flawless!

My one persistent issue is that TU N L and the left arrow are still locked on and this persisted for both boards. And I know you're probably not supposed to do this but I unhooked the solenoid/lamp board completely while it was on to see what would happen and with the board completely unhooked those same lights (TU N L & Arrow) still stay locked on!! I suspect there must be some weird short somehow keeping them lit since they stay on without a lamp board.
Although for sure Q30 is dead on the good solenoid because the very last row the A and energizer is out and it works on the crappy board that locked everything else out.
So all lights are good. I looked at the schematic and noted that Q 2 and Q 4 are responsible for the TUNNEL and arrow that stays on. But I don't think it's the transistors as I said that are causing it as it persists with both boards. And the U is extremely bright and flashes at half brightness. Very perculiar...

If any guru out there can offer suggestions I appreciate it! Be detailed as I know some electrical board related things but others I'm clueless about.
Also I don't have access to a digital multimeter but I have a analog one. So if someone knows how to test transistors with an analog meter I'd greatly appreciate it!!

My last question is advice on the playfield.
This Baby Pac is special because it belonged to the legendary Fun spot in NH! It even has tokens from 92, 96-98 in the coin box! So the game does have some wear in spots but it isn't terrible in my opinion. And I believe it has Mylar on it but again I'm not too sure about some of these things.
It has white specks and what seems to be delamination but I'd like to keep the playfield original and touch it up and protect it on a budget!

Suggestions of all kinds appreciated! Oh and if anyone has some LED suggestions let me know because I'd really like to LED this playfield and lite the "apron" Mr & Mrs Pac but I don't want to drill new holes, so what's the easiest way to tap into an existing socket and light those guys?

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I didn't want to confuse anyone so here is what the other Lamp board gives me when's plugged in! (Note: this is of course all the lights locked on when it flashes and they all go out)

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Sorry I should have been more clear! I already fixed the broken pin and haven't had any other issues. Just the driver board being wonky!
I also cleaned the drop targets because they were being difficult and found this coil, it looks burned out but it works just fine when I test it and it hasn't given me any issues. Should I replace it or just have a spare on hand? Does this indicate the coil is dying or that it just got stuck on but is otherwise okay?

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The hole still fits and it seems to plunge alright. I will order a replacement though, all I need is the number on the coil right, "C1-31-2000" ? Someone posted a while back in this thread saying the springs are unobtainium... only the cooked spring is broken but they do the job for now.

I already thoroughly read the pinrepair wiki, haha Don't worry I did my due diligence before posting! I mentioned in my first post about the Q2, Q4 and Q30 which should be the ones that are fried. But I was asking if they go bad would that cause some lights to be stuck on?
Q30 is stuck off even when I test it they don't light so I assume must only mean Q30 is bad.
However the tunnel lights controlled by Q2 are on and when the light test blinks they blink by going about half dim. Q4 lights the L and arrow and that stays on solid and doesn't blink at all.
I don't have a digital multimeter, can an analog one be used to test SCR's?

These lights are the only concern before moving on to the playfield repair. Everything else is working quite well!

Doesn't look to bad, what happened to the T-molding?

Holy shit... I see what you mean... otherwise how is the cab? It doesn't look to bad? I'd keep it but that's me. I can't see what the sides look like from the picture.
That's crazy though. Does it play or have you not even tested it?
Baby Pac is such an addicting game
I don't regret buying it at all.
If you need help let me know. I'm not an expert but I'm figuring it out decently I think!

Also I don't believe anyone has ever mentioned this before... but did you guys realize the sounds from between the sick/stuttered-Pac theme and the normal pack theme is different?!
I have 3 working vidiots (like a hoard of gold for this sucker) and 2 of them play the normal sound while the original one for the machine plays the stuttered theme.
The stuttered theme has flatter sounds for the ghosts while the regular board has high-pitched noises and also plays a slightly different death noise..
I just noticed while testing them while very minor it is unmistakable and I think prefer the regular ones!

Yes! I think TNT may have mentioned it in a video, not many other places do. Pinwiki may.
It's weird though because you'd think it would be the other way around but in fact the normal startup seems to be on the early games, probably between SN3500 and 4000 it swapped, judging by my board numbers. Anyone else with a low number board SN please let me know! I'm thinking of adding these to the IPSND but maybe not since most people aren't aware of it!
Not sure why the switch but it seems to be predominately the one they used.
My game has a late serial number, 6533, for the cab and some boards, but the Vidiot is an early 3400~ SN. The playfield in it also has that horrendous wire-post style that is aweful to change I'd love to swap it out

I will check mine. I thought the revisions might be the difference but I thought that my non-stuttering one was also marked B... I will have to check again. There are also all sorts of hand written notes and I can't really figure out what they mean on the boards.
How do you like having twins?! My buddy just came over and played mine and now really really wants one due to the smaller form factor, against a full sized pin. Plus the sheer endless novelty of Pac-Man with pinball, in a tasteful way unlike that god awful mistake of Mr. & Mrs. Pac-Man

I can not figure out for the life of me what the dip setting are for freeplay versus coin play. On the subject I messaged you about earlier, I want it set for 1 coin play but I've been switching the dips 1-5 and 9-13, and it doesn't seem to change anything...

I just checked and my game runs the 891-16 chip, the other board with the slightly different sounds that is much older and plays the normal theme has the 891-13 chip. I can try switching them if you'd like. I believe the difference in sound is not related but I'm not sure what the original numbers for the different sound chip is as it's hand written on it. If you'd like to study them I'd be more than happy to help with my chips.

Thank you! I can try switching roms to see what happens.

So now I've got a weird situation with the lamps... it seems the SCR's might be fine. I haven't tested them yet, still have to get a tester, but the stuck-on lights are off now. Now U and N come on and stay on when the right saucer is activated for the first time... not sure why that would be?!

It's in the basement which stays a solid 65 degrees. Thermometer is right next to it. Connectors have also been over and haven't given any issues. It's only those 2 lights now. I mean I can check it again, what pin would they be, how would I find their exact pin???

Nice job! How did you make those poly-carbonate wire guides? I could really use them both mine are broken and over the years apparently chewed the hell out of the playfield. Also a little curious on that fan mod, does it really make a difference? What did you wire it into?
That playfield looks incredible! hardly any wear

I agree, I have an extra Vidiot Deluxe laying around that came with my Baby Pac purchase... I was told he bought out an operator who apparently hoarded these boards. It didn't have fans with it either. I will check but I don't believe there is even evidence of there ever being fans on it.

I have had issues with mine but I would like to ensure it stays that way. I'm not really savvy with adding things like this so how exactly do I just jump of the 12v from the power supply? Will the fan be enough? I don't want to add heat sinks... and with the game as it is, should I reapply some heatsink compound to all the old ones?

This one drove me crazy as well! Hopefully this solves this issue and if it is searched in the forums it comes up:
To reset or clear the high scores on Baby Pac-Man, navigate to the high score list and simply trigger the left coin armature and it will clear the score to zero, so if you hit it 10 times it resets the whole list. It's in the manual but not where you'd expect it, it was tucked in an unrelated page. I read through it about 7 times before I found this. If it's not the left coin mech, it would of course be the right one. I'm pretty sure it's the one closest to the hinge. If you're not familiar with them, it's just the little thin metal arm that is triggered by a coin falling through it. Just use your finger.

Squirt the volume pot on the Vidiot with some of that contact cleaner or whatever it is. The machine should be off but to my understanding it won't explode like an EM.

I have not read the dip switch one. There are way more dipswitches than just that, is it referring to a specific bank?

Love the red trim!!! Anyone have suggestions where to buy red or baby blue t-molding? Also I'd love to buy a variety pack of LEDs to experiment any suggestions?

Yep, that little pot can give you issues.
Check for broken plastic in the drops. I had this issue and it turns out some old broken plastic had lodged itself in the drops and it took some disassembly to get the darn thing out

Okay really newb question here but... what can one do with the vectorized art and how can you manipulate it or print it for use in overlays and decals??

Thank you, this helps immensely!
Not sure I know where to start but at least it's out there

Can someone post a picture of the control panel latch mechanism?
Mine was disassembled because the key was lost, and I can’t figure out how the hell this latch is supposed to somehow lock the panel down?? It definitely seems like something is missing.

It’s pretty annoying to play with the darn thing banging around!

... wow okay so now it makes sense... that giant metal receiver that the control panel latches into is completely gone.. like they just plain removed it...

Where the hell am I going to get another on of those?? Why did someone remove it that makes no sense to me??

Picture added:
Totally gone. Where on earth can I get one?

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I don’t really know how to use KLOV, it’s got an older forum design that never made much sense to me... I have an account but it’s unverified

Mine has colored spinners as well. It seems as if someone had a similar idea to yours, because there is definitely some sort of vinyl protecting baby on the spinner.

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Another newbie question, but which NVRAM option do I go with? I don’t really understand the difference between all of them, nor how to install them...

I’d love a guide on how to install a heatsink & fan mod for the thing

Just to clarify, Forceflow is right, you do NOT need any mods nor anything to make LEDs work. Due to the boards they used LEDs work right off the bat.

Also I have the really garbage individual sockets as well, you just bend them back and hold you breath as you perform nanosurgery trying to avoid touching other metal parts.

Unfortunately for all it’s unusually clean look, my Baby Pac came from an arcade where it didn’t get played much but was left on forever.
Several inserts are brown, thankfully they are still level. The screen has wicked burn in that only becomes noticeable if you “ride the pacsaltor”
(You can clearly read the copyright lol)

My issues I’m having are finding a source for those lamp drivers parts mentioned earlier? As I have some locked on and locked off lamps as well as several bad SCR/IC’s for the coil controls on a spare board that I would like to fix as a backup.

Oddly enough, I’m also getting the xmit issues again. I fixed them and it worked since September, and I’ve played over ~20 hours on the machine and suddenly 5 minutes into a session, I lost xmit 40 again. And I waited and tried to fix it this week, now it works and xmit 20 is out!!
Why on Earth would these comms issues be TRAVELING??

Yes all of the common problem ones are done.
I actually re-did J1 and it seems to work for a little then it starts out again.
Such a weird error. Is there a way to test the wire harness with a multimeter?

My Baby Pac was the floor model for the original Fun Spot. As well as the personal game of a longtime arcade/pin tech. He apparently used to run a big website that held a lot of the information everyone looked too around the 2000’s.

I’m having trouble figuring out what things to test to try tracking down this issue?

:’( alright, I guess I’ll have to finish them off... only the problem ones were changed out. I just couldn’t imagine the others are giving issues but I guess I’ll do it

Mine was getting scrambled due to a burned out driverboard. I swapped out the board which had dozens of bad components and reset everything and it worked just fine.

Also might be the connectors? Those always cause everything!

GAH! I hate that you were right!!!
I was having the most insane issues. I mean everything was going haywire. I was getting some video, then suddenly there would be ZERO video on display! But the test would still function! Then the xmit test would randomly show up then be completely blank! The inserts were on, then the entire play field would be completely unresponsive.

The wackiest issue, that I should have recorded, was on some of the bookkeeping functions there would be a constantly changing value of pure nonsense! It would say like “Game Minutes” 395EHO86HW and just constantly change while just sitting on that screen.

I swapped out for my spare driver board AND vision board, (I ended up finding some cold solder points and 2 totally broken joints) and the issue persisted.

Welp I finally got fed up and started yanking on the wires and suddenly the game restarted perfectly and was instantly playable.

It’s those DAMN IDC CONNECTIONS!!!
I didn’t believe it till I witnessed it. Pure garbage!!!

I am changing it out right now. Stupid, stupid, horrible IDC’s! I should have listened. Baby Pac is a solid game once these trash connections are replaced! I’m goin to replace them all, shortly.

Picture of the devil included

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My only question is for the group of wires to the left. Those ones make a connection but then continue to another connector, so do I just cut it and strip both ends and crimp them in the same pin?

It still blows my mind that that single connector made my entire game non-functioning... the smallest details have the greatest impacts!

I was asked by Pinsider perryd to post images of the connection to the monitor from the boards, and I figured it would be helpful to post them on this thread, should anyone else be curious!

Hopefully this can help other Baby Pac Man restorations

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I’m kinda curious why you have an extra playfield to sell? Did you buy one with the circuit board lights and swap it out?

Have you replaced all the original connections on the circuit board? P1 has given me endless grief and random parts of my playfield went dead and then sporadically would come back.

So check all the connectors and replace them all as everyone says. Another possibility is the solenoid driver/lamp combo board. If you’ve got some bad components on it you’ll have a real bad time.

This is a very peculiar thing... why would someone only make pieces?

Hey everyone, I'm having an issue with my left flipper... when the ball hits it, it gives a little. I replaced the flipper bushings, and bats and now I realize that when the ball hits the flipper the coil gives out. The EOS is properly spaced. I really don't understand why when the flipper is impacted in any way, the coil lets go and starts to machine-gun. Any idea why it doesn't seem to hold?

My game came from a very busy arcade where it was apparently played on location for the first decade of its life, and the joystick is still original.

The previous owner also had A LOT experience with Baby Pac-Man; the main issue with the joystick is that the leaf switches get really bent from play. I had issues with the left switch and it took some time fine tuning to get it to register.

You should probably be able to replace it with a regular joystick assembly. They were pretty basic.
Also post some pictures of yours.

I’ve hit a wall!

I’m not getting anything for RCV XMIT 40
Normally I just had to reseat J2. However I did it and checked continuity this time and it’s all fine! Connectors replaced as well! What else should I be looking for at this point?

The right portion of my playfield is not responding/registering and my right flipper won’t work. No outhole eject, no saucer eject, no tunnel scoring or spinner!

Not sure what else could cause this very specific problem on RCV XMIT 40 when I have continued from the 2 resistors as well as the pins.

I’ll have to look at mine.

I’m still having constant issues that the buttons and half the switches aren’t communicating with my game, so I’m thinking of cutting my connectors and redoing them again...
does anyone have a suggestion on how to trace what fault would be causing this? It’s very intermittent while playing half will respond and then die on me.

Wow, what an impressive first post! Welcome to the club!
That’s an incredible feat and you sir, have problem just saved a good many Baby Pac’s out there! Now there is an option, albeit very involved, that allows one to remove the god-awful Vidiot board, as well as circumvent the terribad connectors that cause nearly all the faults! It’s wonderful!

You should make a Pinside business or a thread about it!!! A lot of guys could use Vidiot repair service!
Also do you do the Vidiot Deluxe that was in GatG? I have a Vidiot deluxe and I can’t test it but I’d like to have a working on for when a Granny shows up near me!

Last I checked Phoenix Arcade should have the entire art package for this game

With extensive splicing and cutting and rewiring, it would be possible be extremely inefficient, I believe

I’d buy pass it. I just banded mine shut for troubleshooting anyway

YES!!! I’ll start saving now. I want 3 of them from CPR.

How about Vidiot deluxe? As in GNG?

When are we getting the repro Playfields?! Mine is just rough and it looks worse and worse. I’ve considered doing work to protect it, but why bother if the repros are coming soon?

Sad there isn’t a “heart-eyes” emote on Pinside! I am absolutely thrilled for this!! Price is steeper than I had hoped, but I need one. Gonna get all new starposts and such for it, it’s gonna be gorgeous to match my already beautiful Baby!

Yeesh. I hope they make things right soon... that’s a bogus non-answer. He’s just saying “not my problem”

Hey fellow Baby Pac caretakers,
I’m selling a fully functional, tested working VIDIOT board. I don’t have much to base my pricing on, I see one sold south of $500 on eBay, and on Pinside nobody ever posts what price they sold at, so I’m asking $425 or best offer.

This happened when my RAM went bad

That’s very interesting.
Typically I’ve found that they hand-wrote the serial number for the BPM on the cardboard on the back of the monitor. Yours has a 9451 on it, but the boards both have the same serial number.

The last location to check it the top bit of wood above the back door. That will have the number stamped into it. It’s unusual to swap two boards with the same serial so the monitor may have been swapped before. Whatever number is imprinted on the cab will tell you what came first

Does this help?

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What settings do you put it on?? That’s a nutty score!!!

Just NVRAM’d my game too!!! Sad to lose all the data but happy it’ll never be lost again! Of course now my game is functioning 100% with the repaired MPU so my lamp driver decided to blow a chip and half my playfield lamps go out...
Thanks Baby Pac-Man... you always know how to take a dump on me!

Agreed, you’ve got a bad RAM chip, most likely!

You will still have to manually clear those junk inputs I’m pretty sure. Which is done by going into the test menu and triggering the coin chute to clear the junk scores.

I’m so annoying, I got a new MPU, got the game working 100% played it for a few days and then the same issue happened again. RCV 40 is out, right saucer, right spinner and right inlane don’t register. This is ridiculous. It is intermittent but after a few days it becomes permanent...

Do you think a bad diode on one of them is screwing up the MPU??? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/save-my-baby-bpm-is-a-diode-is-issue

Yes, I’ve reseated it a few times... I think there’s a bad diode somewhere on one of the switches that eventually takes out the whole row. It’s just so weird it works at first for a couple days...

I understand why people hate this game. Finally repinned J1 and my switch issues went away!
... except now completely at random half of my solenoids don’t respond.
I put it in solenoid test and took a video of it. Seriously.
Sometimes 2-4 cycles would work flawlessly, and then suddenly the drop target bank stops working, then the kick out hole stops working, then none of the memory targets.
THEN THE NEXT CYCLE THEY ALL WORK AGAIN.
How does this keep happening?!? Why do these issues seem totally and completely bizarre??

Crimps are good, just went and repinned the whole think and tugged on them to make sure they’re solid. Header pins have been replaced. And from my inspections I haven’t seen any cracked or cold solder joints. It’s very frustrating to track down. Game is working fine again and did so for about an hour.
This thing drives me nuts.

I have a few games I’m looking for tubes and chassis on. Is KLOV the best place to look, any other recommendations

Have a similar problem with the game randomly doing it right when I forget it was an issue, but on mine the right saucer stops working randomly.

Now I’ve got a NEW issue. A MAJOR issue. My baby Pac boots up and going into attract but the CRT is dead. If I press the video test on the Vidiot it shows up. But if I press the test on the coin door, nothing happens.
It worked and played just fine last night and today it shit itself :/
Any suggestions?? I’m pretty bummed out, I love BPM and I’ve finally got vacation next week to enjoy my games and rearrange my gameroom, so of course Baby decides to die on me.

For AvngRHulk
Here’s how I usually work on my game. The lockdown bar is pretty annoying in this one.

I take it off when I’m working on it. This was out on location for many years at Fun Spot, and their techs always removed it. They also wrapped the bottom coil because the slightest touch will blow the fuse.

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My post on your other thread answers most those questions. This is junk, but you can easily get one from Rocketland Coin-op. I see you’re in Texas, next time they have a sale I can head over and pick you up one. If the big drop-target bank is taken off, it probably won’t cost a lot to ship the playfield. About $50 or so, I’d think. I shipped a stripped full-sized playfield for $30.

It uses the super common Bally boards of the day. Easy to source. BPM used a slightly modified MPU, not sure if it can be reverted to normal since you’re omitting the monitor.

The MPU has nothing to do with the video output, that’s solely on the Vidiot.

Slide rails? Do you mean the blocks of wood it sits on? There’s nothing special for this game. Would be nice if there was.

The bank is constantly resetting? Perhaps a bad diode on the up switch so it is not detecting properly?

Agreed. You twist them and they hold the playfield down. Your playfield in the first picture isn’t totally flush yet. I think most people rarely use them.

Also be careful with the lockdown bar. When you’re working on this game, if the playfield touches the lockdown you will blow your fuses. Which explains why when I bought mine the control panel lockdown was removed.

Yes, just make sure that when it’s on if you’re working on the game, such as replacing lights, don’t get the lockdown anywhere near the playfield. Lay a rag over it or remove it.

The playfield easily slides forward and can stand up with the drop target bank resting on the bottom wooden panel. It’s very handy.

When playing it, it was awful without the lockdown! We had to hold it down with our free hand and be careful not to go too hard in the game!

WTF! I am shocked. I had issues when I FIRST got my machine. Believe one of the ram chips was bad and it locked on random solenoids.

Baby Pac-Man happens to be the exception among Bally’s and you don’t have to do anything special to use LEDs. They just work! I prefer Comet but PL LEDs are fine too.

It’s a great game. I would highly suggest changing the rules to “carries over arrow memory” from ball to ball. And also make sure that your life doesn’t end when the ball drains. And only 3 lives!

The “extra baby” arrow memory feature improved the game for me immensely.

This isn’t one of the games that has issues when installed LEDs while powered on?
Unless you mean that in bending back the sockets, it’s super easy to short out things and blow that sucker up.

That’s because the transistors are crap and weren’t designed to run both lamps. You’re supposed to replace the blown ones with MCR106's which can handle two lamps at once. I haven’t had any issues whatsoever changing all the bulbs in my game while it was on

It’s been ages since I looked. I’m pretty sure they should be pinball sized, the cabinet bottom has circles cut out for them. Use the smaller 2inch ones.

What do you have it set on that you’re getting way into the millions? I have mine on 3 Baby’s no carry-over except extra baby Target memory.

Do most people put it on 5-ball with carry-over?

I believe those old Bally sockets are NLA

Does anyone have the coin box or lid for this machine? Nearly all my machines have their coin box and it feels naked without it. It’s also useful to put spare parts in and be able to take it out when working on the game!

30cm by 35.2cm
Or
11 13/16th” by 13 7/8th”

An original playfield as in NOS? Or just a good one someone had saved from a part out?

They can go bad or have dead spots which suddenly cause the entire color to disappear

Who sells those?

Wow, really pops! You’re not getting any bleed in the monitor from the lights?

Beautiful!
Take a pic with the bezel removed and show us how you did it. I will probably add this to mine as well!

Also welcome to pinside! I noticed these are your first posts! Great start!

You can’t fix burn in, arcade collectors deal with that often. The 13in CRT is a rarity. You should just live with it, it sucks but if the picture is bright enough, you shouldn’t notice that much. The big glob of copyright info is always burnt-in on this game.

I’m always looking for them at shows and such, would like a cashbox for my Granny and Baby Pac. I believe Granny uses a different cashbox, however.

The MPU is extremely common, should be a ton of them around. I think it has a small jumper when used in Baby Pac and Granny, but otherwise they’re common. Any reputable board repair tech should be able to clean that right up or have one on hand to sell you

It’s been ages, but I believe the monitor bezel is barely held in with anything. I just lift up on mine and it falls forwards. Gotta double check

There are no replacements for the Vidiot. You have to find a board repairman. I don’t see any corrosion on yours. For $300 there is no way you could go wrong buying Baby Pac

These are hilarious. Great work!! Did you just make these?

The layouts do change once you get to the higher levels and then the walls become invisible!

I think some of you guys have your games set up way to easy!

I’ve been chasing the same issue for well over 2 years now. The right flipper gives out unless the left flipper is active. Here what I learned recently:
When the right flipper button is activated, the “hold” circuit is engaged and the coil buzzes.
I replaced with a new coil. Same behavior.

I also have a spare solenoid/lamp driver and I get the SAME behavior.

What the hell could POSSIBLY be causing such a weird issue? The hold winding is engaged but the power winding activates a few times and then dies out and will only activate if the left flipper is active.

It makes me think that it’s in the flipper relay, but it has this issue with 2 different boards. Is it possible BOTH flipper relays are bad? Is there another possibility I’m missing? Could the cabinet switches be the cause?

I’m at a loss guys. I have changed EVERYTHING and still the right flipper doesn’t cooperate.

Wow!! Ended at $500! Good to know market price on an untested board. I offered mine for sale about 2 years ago and people cried and pissed their pants over less than half that!

Oops, my bad! Thank you for the correction. Mine are totally tested and working, wonder what that goes for.