Baby Pac-Man
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Quoted from Biffbar:Have twins, two Baby-Pacs, and three Vidiots. Running the non-stuttering Vidiot, marked REV. A, in the nicer machine. The stuttering start tune boards are both screened printed "REV. B".
Cool. That is interesting. I wonder if it is a rom swap? Not that I would dare touch my working Vidiot board lol.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Thank you! I can try switching roms to see what happens.
So now I've got a weird situation with the lamps... it seems the SCR's might be fine. I haven't tested them yet, still have to get a tester, but the stuck-on lights are off now. Now U and N come on and stay on when the right saucer is activated for the first time... not sure why that would be?!
Sounds like a connector or header pin problem. Changes with the temperature I bet.
Quoted from HPR:Baby Pac-Man cpo done !!!
Marquee-Bezel-Playfield Plastic Set-CPO-Sideart, all new from Phoenix Arcade, thanks great products
Also installed new t-molding and soon a new aluminium coin door badge still to install.
Where did you get the coin door badge? Mine is missing entirely!
Quoted from HPR:Check here, the repro for my Baby Pac-Man is perfect, very nice product and highly recommended !
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=416520
Thank you for that info!
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:... wow okay so now it makes sense... that giant metal receiver that the control panel latches into is completely gone.. like they just plain removed it...
Where the hell am I going to get another on of those?? Why did someone remove it that makes no sense to me??
Picture added:
Totally gone. Where on earth can I get one?
Post a wanted ad on KLOV. People part these all the time. It seems Baby PACs are more commonly water damaged than any other arcade game... for some unknown reason.
Quoted from Biffbar:Could also be the 5101 ram and battery backup system. I've had garbled high scores when the batteries needed attention. If the batteries are good you may want to reset the high scores and see if that works out.
Whether the battery is good or bad you should stick NVRAM in there. This games boards are rare and expensive more so than other pins. Having a battery in it is CRAZY!
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Another newbie question, but which NVRAM option do I go with? I don’t really understand the difference between all of them, nor how to install them...
Your question was answered below but I’m glad to see two more people in this thread converted away from the dreaded battery! 
Quoted from HOOKED:Are new monitors available? If so where?
I’ve seen NIB 13 inch monitors (including a few stashes of multiple monitors) come up from various private arcade collectors in the last two years and even snagged one myself 2 years ago. Rare but not as rare as a 19” NIB.
The reality is that you can have your chassis repaired and it will likely be more reliable than the NIB monitor with old caps. I do a lot of monitor work (just for myself) and rarely do I see a monitor that needs to be replaced. Out of 25 monitors I’ve seen maybe 2-3 tubes that had to go. The K4900 and G07 variants in the Baby PAC are good monitors. Don’t be quick to replace it. If you need a recommended tech I can recommend a couple.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Yes. You’ll need a mod to have the led lights work right though.
All I did was use non ghosting and I didn’t modify anything.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Any flickering? Good to hear if no issues.
No. I had a few which were dim but replacing with another LED solved it. The LED wasn’t defective because it worked in a different game oddly enough. I also had a few sockets which needed a diode repair or other work. It was an annoying job to be honest. Think I cut my hands up a bit too.
Quoted from HOOKED:My back round is bright blue not black like it should be. I recapped it so I know thats good. Just seems.like I have lost black. Its been that way since I got it 6 or so years ago.
Definitely sounds like an adjustment issue. Follow the great advice just provided and report back.
Quoted from alexmogil:Does anyone have any info or advice on that polarized screen? Did it normally mount to the monitor frame?
I don’t remember off the top of my head to be honest. I know Tron (same company same timeline)screws onto the frame. I’d have to check my game for you which I’m happy to do if no one else answers first.
Quoted from Biffbar:You are missing the black plastic bezel which surrounds the crt, and the metal brackets to either side, which hold a tinted plastic screen (which is not much larger than the crt). It is fairly common for operators to swap monitors around when one goes bad.
This is how mine is attached to the monitor.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Yes all of the common problem ones are done.
I actually re-did J1 and it seems to work for a little then it starts out again.
Such a weird error. Is there a way to test the wire harness with a multimeter?
My Baby Pac was the floor model for the original Fun Spot. As well as the personal game of a longtime arcade/pin tech. He apparently used to run a big website that held a lot of the information everyone looked too around the 2000’s.
I’m having trouble figuring out what things to test to try tracking down this issue?
Are all of the problem connectors done or are all connectors done? This is an important troubleshooting question.
I had many intermittent issues that would resolve for a month or more and resurface. Once I sucked it up and did all connectors they went away. I’m telling everyone here with weird issues — there is no guarantee the connectors are the cause but you will go nuts fixing things that may not be broken and chasing gremlins on even the best condition Baby PAC. The best thing you can do is eliminate the biggest source first.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost::’( alright, I guess I’ll have to finish them off... only the problem ones were changed out. I just couldn’t imagine the others are giving issues but I guess I’ll do it
I can’t promise it will fix your issues but it wouldn’t surprise me if it did. Regardless - it needs to be done eventually anyway.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:My only question is for the group of wires to the left. Those ones make a connection but then continue to another connector, so do I just cut it and strip both ends and crimp them in the same pin?
It still blows my mind that that single connector made my entire game non-functioning... the smallest details have the greatest impacts!
Yes there is one or two connectors that have two wires going into one pin.
Glad you finally decided to change all the connectors. It is a pain in the butt — however a necessary evil.
Quoted from Schwaggs:If you are really good, you can cut the looped wire and get it crimped into a single pin. It is easier said than done and takes some practice.
Easier but more time consuming way is to get some heat shrink tubing and some extra wire. Cut the looping wire, strip both ends, solder together. Cut a short length of wire (1-2" is fine) strip one end, tin the end and solder to the other pair of wires. Cover the solder joint with some heat shrink tubing. strip and crimp the pin on the end of the single wire.
No matter which way you go, do yourself a favor and get one of these. It crimps the wire and insulation at the same time. Works flawlessly... amazon.com link »
Wow that tool looks like it would save me some time!
Quoted from Antennaejim:I found the problem to my scrambled high score saves alpha numeric issue. U1 needed seating now all is well.
Glad you found the solution! Thanks for sharing.
Quoted from ICPjuggla:Anyone know what type of leaf switches are used on the 4 way controller? I can’t seem to track them down.
Mine work intermittently, cut out durning game play. When I open the controller panel and press them manually they seem to work fine. They seem very worn out! I’ve only used paper to clean them but don’t know what a previous owner did in the past..
Are the leaf switches worn or is it your controller rubber grommit that is worn?
Quoted from ICPjuggla:I will note it’s not one switch not working, the whole controller goes dead. Up, down, left and right all cut out at the same time.
Connections at the molex connector seem tight and fine in the cabinet.
Has that molex been repinned? Have you tried to reheat the header on the board where it plugs in?
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