(Topic ID: 116040)
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Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
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3 weeks later
Before this evening, the Baby Pacman pinwiki page was blank. I finaly sat down and spent the evening adding all sorts of information to the pinwiki page for it.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Baby_Pac-Man
There's plenty of room for additional contributions, so feel free to add anything you feel would be helpful 
1 month later
Quoted from chuckwurt:Has anyone thought about lighting up the lower big plastics next to the flippers? I want to put some strips in there, but wondering how to get them power without having to run wire all the way to the back of the game to jump them to the MPU. Any thoughts?
I saw someine add some bulb sockets to the nearest GI lines for holes near or under the big plastics. Then, take a look at either the dual flex head LEDS or LED strip from cometpinball.com
Quoted from chuckwurt:maybe check the EOS switch and see if the gap is too small when the flipper is engaged. that can cause machine-gunning. If that looks okay, maybe just replace the EOS switch if the contacts are pitted at all.
A bad coil can sometimes cause this too, if the problem isn't the EOS switch.
4 months later
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:Been having some issues with my monitor. The screen starts to shake. sometimes minimal, sometimes more while other times a rumble or a soft tremble..
I have adjusted every pot, from sync to everything. Any way for me to tune this thing in so it is stable. At this point i dont really care how amazing my colors are. Just want it to be stable. I personally hate CRT's even if I am a retro kid at birth. I am very tempted to rip the monitor out and put in a LCD. I really like how my LCD-RFM turned out. Death to CRT's....Hate them.
Check voltages for the monitor. There could be an issue with the flyback board on the monitor.
Try unplugging the game and letting everything discharge for 20-30 minutes. See if that does anything.
You might want to check over at KLOV for troubleshooting monitor wobble.
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:I get the game to be stable, then after a game or two it starts to lose it. As I mentioned before, I despise CRT's. I will test it first, but I think an LED is going to be better for me.
Post about it on KLOV. They likely have way more experienced CRT techs there than here.
If you do replace it, offer the monitor up for sale. I've encountered a couple of people who said they were looking for one, so they might be able to use the picture tube if the burn-in is minor.
Quoted from catboxer:I wish CPR would make the playfield. I thought I remember reading they had bought all the inserts. I have the overlay but it delaminated in a small spot before i applied it.
Which overlay did you get? The one from Classic Arcades, or the one from Phoenix Arcade?
As a side note, I just noticed that phoenix arcade now has screened bezels and marquees. 
Quoted from chuckwurt:Awesome. The only thing that doesn't look perfect on mine is the side decals. Hells yeah.
Phoenix Arcade has those too.
It looks like just about all the artwork is available for this game, which is impressive. It's too bad so many of them get discarded because of problems with the vidiot board 
Quoted from gameover1173:can someone post a pic of the wiring going to the right flipper eos both switch please ????
thanks in advance
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Baby_Pac-Man#Game_Randomly_Exits_Pinball_Mode
Quoted from johnnyutah:Anyone have one with the circuit boards under the playfield lightings?
The one in my game is the lamp socket version, but I found a lamp board version that I was planning on swapping in at some point since it has a better playfield. I need to put together a pigtail adatper for the playfield, though, since the connector on the lamp board playfield doesn't match the connector in the cabinet.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Baby_Pac-Man#Playfield
2 weeks later
Quoted from DocRotCod:IMG_6936.JPG
Since I don't have the color codes, could someone please look at my J2 connector and compare with theirs? Obviously someone has messed with this connector in the past. My coin 2 switch is registering incorrectly also.
Thanks!
Page 41 of the PDF manual shows all the wiring and colors.
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/125/Bally_1982_Baby_Pac_Man_Manual.pdf
The columns of numbers in the rectangles are the pins, and the numbers to the left of the pin numbers are the wiring color codes.
2 months later
Quoted from thepinballworks:I need help on my Baby Pac.
I have a communication issue. on the communication test, it shows good except the last one #80 is on the left and #00 is on the right. What should I be looking for? There is no video, but I can run through the test on it and see them fine, just no video game.
It has a new alltek mpu in it and I get all 7 flashes and the vidiot board gets 10 flashes.
Please help.
Thanks.
You'll need to do continuity testing for the connections of the mismatched rows.
A chart is here:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Baby_Pac-Man#Missmatching_Number_Columns
1 month later
2 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from johnnyutah:Anyone have any suggestions of what to use to clean playfield for a baby pac? Novus?
The same techniques used on any playfield apply to baby pacman too.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide
Quoted from catboxer:I bought mine from DPTWiz on KLOV. It was not flat packed, but I think he is maybe out in Iowa? If he's still making cabs that is...
I did some digging on this on KLOV. It looks like he's out of the cab making business due to health issues. It sounds like he sold all his CNC files to virtualpin.net and he has a non-compete agreement with them.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?p=2981658&postcount=141
3 weeks later
Quoted from boogies:The part that really confused me was...
I thought the two socket next to the flippers were GI and I've left them empty since I didnt want GI there.. I was gonna tap into them, and seen that the sockets have diodes #huh# After adding some bulbs, I remembered how my buddies flashes at the flippers.
0127160825_(resized).jpg
The lamps near the flippers/outhole flash when the ball is ready to kick out onto the playfield.
Quoted from boogies:I like the solid lit up plastics...
It would be awesome to have them lit up solid and flash with those flipper lights. Maybe a second set of lights under the plastics?
3 months later
Quoted from boogies:I've been restoring my Baby. Gonna be taking it to Pin A Go Go next month.
20160427_201556_(resized).jpg
Very nice 
1 week later
Quoted from boogies:I have since replaced that monitor, with another, and it's working decently... It bounces (shakes) when the flippers are pressed. I'm hoping that someone at the show will have a tip for me on fixing
Might be a grounding issue. Does the power plug have three prongs, or just two? If so, be sure to check continuity for all ground wires starting with the monitor, power supply, and driver board.
1 month later
Quoted from Schwaggs:Do you guys recommend replacing all the header pins and connectors on all original boards or are there some that are reliable and do not need to be replaced?
I'm having trouble with the CPUs reliably reading their ROMs. Should I just clean the pins on all the socketed chips or are the sockets notoriously bad on Bally like they are on Williams System 6?
The header pins need to be replaced.
On the MPU, like with other Bally MPUs, the ROM sockets usually need to be replaced.
Quoted from Schwaggs:Thanks! Can I get away with replacing just the header pins or should I replace the connectors too?
You can usually leave the connectors alone unless they're causing problems. Then it's best to remove the IDC connectors and replace them with standard .100" connectors. However--a couple of the sizes are hard to find from what I recall, so you may need to either cut down a larger connector housing, or use two smaller ones together.
Quoted from Friengineer:Anyone have the Rubber list? I need some new ones.
Page 9 of the manual.
1 month later
Quoted from japespin:Issue #1: During game play, when the ball lands in the Left saucer (In the "Fruits" section), it does not get kicked back out, and just sits idly in the saucer indefinitely. Strangely, when running the solenoid test, the saucer kicks the ball out without any issue, so I'm not sure why this is only happening during game play. Any idea what's going on?
Have you tested the switch?
Quoted from japespin:Issue #2: My display looks folded, and contains faint vertical lines from top to bottom. Any idea what could be causing this? Previous owner says it was fine before the game was delivered to me, and that it could be just a loose cable. If thats the case, any idea which cables are the likely culprit? If that's not the case, then what could be the likely problem?
It's not a cable issue, but a component issue.
Take a look here: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?p=61384&postcount=10
3 months later
The original SCR's on the driver board that drive the lamps are a bit twitchy and underrated. They can blow quite easily. And since each SCR drives two lamps, if one dies, it will affect two lamps.
Were you changing bulbs while the game was on?
Here's a chart for determining which lamps correspond to which SCR's:
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Baby_Pac-Man#Lamps
Bad 2N5060's should be replaced with 2N5064's, since they have a higher tolerance/rating. There are also some folks who have replaced them with MCR100 or MCR106's, though the pinout may be different...I can't quite remember off the top of my head.
[edit]: Here's a link describing how to install the MCR106's:
9 months later
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:I also cleaned the drop targets because they were being difficult and found this coil, it looks burned out but it works just fine when I test it and it hasn't given me any issues. Should I replace it or just have a spare on hand? Does this indicate the coil is dying or that it just got stuck on but is otherwise okay?
It locked on at some point and started cooking. I would replace it. The hole for the plunger probably shrunk too.
those springs may need to be replaced as well. They look a bit mangled from the photos.
Also, be sure to check the pinwiki page on baby pac-man. I put up a chart that will be helpful for figuring out which SCR's correspond to which lamps.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:But I was asking if they go bad would that cause some lights to be stuck on?
Yes, but it could also be the diode on the lamp socket.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:I don't have a digital multimeter, can an analog one be used to test SCR's?
No idea. You should get a digital one either way. I've used this one for a long time:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-multimeter-digital-with-8-functions-and-20/p-03482141000P
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:I already thoroughly read the pinrepair wiki, haha
Pinrepair has some info, and pinwiki has some info. Those are currently two major sources of baby pac info.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:However the tunnel lights controlled by Q2 are on and when the light test blinks they blink by going about half dim.
Dimming lamps usually indicates a problem with lamp socket diodes. This is noted on the pinwiki page.
Quoted from brainmegaphone:Cool. That is interesting. I wonder if it is a rom swap? Not that I would dare touch my working Vidiot board lol.
There is a ROM update for the vidiot board, but I have no idea what changes it might include.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-does-a-baby-pacman-vidiot-u9-rom-update-891-16-change
Quoted from Biffbar:On the subject of roms, what does the IDPB "home version" set offer? Is it modded for freeplay or something else?
Those are PinMAME ROM files, intended to be used in PinMAME, but are usually identical to originals.
The original ROM set has a free play option built in, so it isn't necessary to use home ROMs for that reason in this case. Home ROMs generally have forced free play with no coin play option.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:I can not figure out for the life of me what the dip setting are for freeplay versus coin play.
Turn switch 30 to on for free play.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:I just checked and my game runs the 891-16 chip, the other board with the slightly different sounds that is much older and plays the normal theme has the 891-13 chip. I can try switching them if you'd like. I believe the difference in sound is not related but I'm not sure what the original numbers for the different sound chip is as it's hand written on it. If you'd like to study them I'd be more than happy to help with my chips.
I'd be interested to find out if that stutter corresponds to a specific ROM version or board version.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:It's in the basement which stays a solid 65 degrees. Thermometer is right next to it. Connectors have also been over and haven't given any issues. It's only those 2 lights now. I mean I can check it again, what pin would they be, how would I find their exact pin???
Look on the schematic for the driver board.
1 month later
I was the one who started the write-up for that. Never got around to doing that project. Since the wiring was arranged differently on the two versions of playfields and cab wiring, you would have to map out what each wire is for on each connector, then match them up through the pigtail adapter.
It's certainly possible to do--I just didn't feel like taking the time to do it since I had other projects to get to. Maybe I'll return to it at some point, but it probably won't be any time soon.
Quoted from pinmods:Thanks for your work.
Certainly at some point someone has tackled this.....right?
You're the first person besides me whom I've seen express interest in trying it. 
It sure would save a lot of work if someone has already blazed this trail before, though.
Quoted from pinmods:I'm just diving into it right now. On the cabinet side - the 24 pin connector has 14 leads going to it. On the "new" playfield side the 15 pin only has 12 leads. Any idea what those 2 extra between them are?
I'll know once I start matching the wires but figured I'd ask in case you know already. Thanks
No idea. I never traced any of them out.
Quoted from toasterman04:would love a new playfield.... are they still available? or maybe the overlays?
Overlays: https://www.phoenixarcade.com/products/baby-pac-man/baby-pac-man-playfield-overlay
They also carry the cab art, CPO, plastics, marquee, and backglass.
Quoted from Biffbar:If the playfield is staying with that cabinet you could cut off the playfield side & put on the connector you need (skip the adapter). Keep a couple inches of wire at the plug in case you want to put it back where it was.
Yes, you could do that, but if you mess it up, get stuck, or have to abandon it for some reason, you end up with a severed harness like you mentioned you have.
It's better to make a reversible modification than a permanent one so you can always easily go back to the original configuration--especially if it's something that hasn't been documented before.
Quoted from pinmods:Alright...
There are two extra wires on the cabinet harness than on the "new" playfield harness. Orange and Yellow/Red. I can't find either of those colors on the new playfield harness at all.
Thoughts?
You may have to try to follow them visually and by hand by taking apart some of the wiring bundles.
[edit]: According to the wiring schematics, orange could be: GI, Strobe 1, or right flipper.
yellow/red could be: strobe 4
However, I'm not sure what differences there may be between the schematics and the two playfield versions.
[edit 2]: I'm guessing they are likely the two strobes, since there are no switches corresponding to those strobes. That could be why they weren't connected to anything.
Quoted from pinmods:Strobes as in flashers? I don't know of any flashers on a Baby Pac.
Switch matrix strobes, not lamp flashers.
Quoted from pinmods:So what would that mean exactly? That they aren't needed because they are somehow combined on the playfield end?
There are no switches on those strobe lines in the switch matrix, so the wires probably weren't needed.
Quoted from HOOKED:should the screen be black like this ?
Yes.
Quoted from HOOKED:mine always has a blue back round.
The brightness might be set too high.
Quoted from bpa:For the price of a hardtop you can get the overlay from Phoenix and a protector from that place out in Europe. I have the protector for my baby pac project but waiting to do a few touchups before I install it.
I generally don't like overlays since they can shift and wrinkle. Having a hard top option would be much more attractive in lieu of an actual replacement playfield.
Quoted from Reality_Studio:Hmm, do they still do that if you fully prep the surface, sanding it, cleaning it with tack cloth and so on? Just curious because I had considered the overlay when I had my Baby Pac, just wasn't sure how good they actually look and how long they last.
They can still wrinkle and bubble. The overlay is still a thin material being adhered to wood. As things move and twist on top of the overlay (such as screws and posts), so does the overlay to some degree, which creates wrinkles.
Some people clear coat on top of the overlay (just be aware that some chemicals may attack the overlay material/inks), or lay down mylar--either one will help.
Quoted from catboxer:Exactly, mine delaminated in it’s tube! I had it for about 2 years and then I unrolled it and decided to stick with the original playfield. I have replaced everything, even a repro cab, the playfield is the last holdout. I would rather have a hardtop so I don’t have to wait 6-8 years.
Out of curiosity, where did you go to get a cab?
Quoted from catboxer:Someone on KLOV probably 6 years ago. I don’t believe he’s making cabs anymore though.
Ah, I remember seeing that a while back. Oh well--I was hoping it was something more recent.
Quoted from djreddog:Is the standard molding for Baby Pac the 3/4"?
Not sure. It's been a while since I measured it. They carry different sizes if that's not the right one.
Quoted from Lithonion:All the LEDs in mine when I got it where white. Now they are "FRUITS" all different colors like fruit. All the others I put that color for the color insert it is. It really makes them pop! Also for the flashing LEDs to l warn you of the ball launch I put in super bright blue. I put red under the slingshots and blue all across the top.
I'd like to see a photo of how that turned out, if you have one.
Quoted from Friengineer:My baby pac keeps blowing out U13 & U14. It's not right away but every few months or so. Any ideas why?
Here's my previous thread regarding the blank screen:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/baby-pac-man-vidiot-problem-6-flashes-unsovled-mysteries
What are you getting for 5v? Is it on the high side?
3 weeks later
Most sides are a laminate/uniface material, and not actually paint. However, I did find this in an archived link on KLOV:
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
However, someone posted a warning about the chemical make-up of the paint used by sherwin-williams that changed to the point where that code produced something closer to a mustard color.
Another color code:
CCE (ColorCast Ecotoner) # colorant
----------------- 02 --- 32 --- 64 --- 128
B1 - Black --------------------1-------1
R3 - Magenta ----------2-----1-------1
Y1 - Yellow -----2-----28--------------
W1 - White ------------2---------------
2 weeks later
Quoted from HPR:Hi Baby Pac owners !
I restored my Baby Pac-Man recently but the coin box is missing. Someone can provide a picture of this coin box please ?
Thanks !!
3 weeks later
Quoted from bpa:My spinners were pretty torched so I am retracing the artwork. Once I finish it, and you guys are interested, I can post it up.
Classic arcades has spinner decals available, if you need them:
2 weeks later
Quoted from Lithonion:I have a question if someone can point me in the right direction. My BPM is messing up the initials on the high score. So for example my top score DRW is now reading E.W. and the then next 3 or 4 or correct and the next one is garbled. Possible bad ROM?
Either that or video RAM.
You can easily verify the ROMs by comparing the data to the ROM files using an EPROM burner.
If one of those are wrong, erase and re-burn. If they all check out, then look at the RAM.
Quoted from ahmedreda:Is there a way to convert baby Pac-Man to jamma? I would like to be able to play the other pacmans or put a 60 in 1 on it..
Note: this is going to be an extra feature using a jamma switcher and is not meant to replace the baby Pac-Man part..
It's not even close to being JAMMA compatible, so no, not with a lot of work. You would probably have to have two harnesses and switch back and forth manually between the baby pacman boardset and the 60-in-1 board. When/if you go to sell it, it would probably hurt the value.
I would recommend hunting down a junk/empty arcade cabinet to turn into a 60-in-1 game if you really want something like that.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:I don’t really understand the difference between all of them
They normally match up with the part number of the RAM being replaced. 5101, 6116, 6264, etc.
Update on the u9 ROM--the missing service bulletin was found, but unfortunately, it did not contain any version history for the ROM.
Quoted from alexmogil:My insert lights are 555 lights, and if I understand right, this apparently sucks.
Not quite. If you have individual 555 sockets, there is some risk of sockets shorting together because they are packed so tightly together, and there's usually some bad diodes on a game that hasn't been touched in years. For the most part, the sockets are ok. If you have a playfield with a lamp board, that's even better.
The driver board 2N5060 SCR's that drive the lamps tend to short out quite easily, and it's usually recommended to bump them up to 2N5064's if you replace them, or even install MCR106's (just note that the legs are arranged differently).
Quoted from alexmogil:Are LED lights usable in this game?
Yes, and unlike regular Bally pinball games, there is no ghosting.
Quoted from HOOKED:My back round is bright blue not black like it should be. I recapped it so I know thats good. Just seems.like I have lost black. Its been that way since I got it 6 or so years ago.
Did you try the adjustment pots on the vidiot board?
1 week later
Quoted from ahmedreda:I dont think mine has a diode.. the ball kicks automatically on mine as well.. picture is attached..
There is a service bulletin addressing that. Check the IPDB page or pinwiki page.
3 weeks later
Quoted from brainmegaphone:Glad you finally decided to change all the connectors. It is a pain in the butt — however a necessary evil.
3 months later
Quoted from Lithonion:So I am wanting to fix a few cosmetic things. My plexi over the crt has a couple good scratches in it. Does anyone know a good replacement? I noticed it is tinted but not sure if it is a special filter of some kind.
1 week later
Quoted from Lithonion:All my switches are dying. Soon as I replace one another goes so I am just going to get them all and replace them. I have found replacements for everything except the slingshots. Has anyone replaced theirs and if so what did you use? The original part is discontinued and no alternate is listed that I can find.
That doesn't sound right--they're leaf switches--not a whole lot can go wrong there. Either the contacts get dirty or the gap between the two leafs needs to be adjusted.
Quoted from Lithonion:A few of the switches contacts where so worn they were non existent.
Ah, someone probably filed them down thinking they should be treated like EM switches, instead of just cleaning them by running some paper between the contacts.
2 months later
Quoted from ICPjuggla:Where can we find any documentation on the controller anyway? There is nothing in the manual, nothing on wiki and it seems no one talks about it much here. Is there any documentation at all about them?! If I needed a replacement controller assembly, parts for it or new leaf switches etc. where do I go to look for this info?
Bally/Midway arcade game manuals or parts catalogs would probably be your best bet. I don't recall seeing any joystick info in the pinball manuals or parts catalog.
1 month later
Quoted from Crt1989:Does the microprocessor at U27 have any sound files on it? I'm wanting to replace it and the holder instead reflowing, but I'm new to the whole EPROM ROM thing.
U27 is a CPU, not an EPROM.
The sound EPROMs are U29 & U30.
EPROMs have a window in the chip covered by a label. This is so they can be erased with UV light and rewritten.
Be very careful about replacing a chip socket. The traces and solder pads are *very* fragile. If you are not an experienced in soldering/desoldering, or if all you have is a soldering iron (and not a desoldering iron), I would highly recommend that you leave it alone or send it out for professional repair. Once a pad or trace is lifted, it's difficult to reliably repair.
IMHO, vidiot boards are one of the worst boards to do work on since the traces and pads are so fragile. On top of that, there are no replacement vidiot boards available.
The primary reason why you don't see too many baby pacman games is because of vidiot board failures, and it was a tricky board to repair, so many games ended up getting tossed.
1 month later
Quoted from Asmig:I’ll replace the single wipe sockets with double wipe sockets in the future if the problem ever reappears.
Something to keep in mind: the pads and traces on the Vidiot board are very fragile. Don't take the idea of replacing a socket very lightly with that board. You can potentially cause damage even if you're careful.
The MPU and driver boards don't seem to have that problem, so replace away on those.
1 month later
I've heard of someone using .7mm formica.
Also: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?p=2571687&postcount=22
Arborite S-480 GL - Daffodil
7 months later
Quoted from Wharhed:Wow.. looks like CPR didn’t like what I had to say. They deleted my comments on Facebook and blocked me from posting any additional comments lol
Stay classy cpr
I wonder if it's Stu who is running the Facebook page. He's in AZ, isn't he?
It seems odd to burn a bridge like that for someone who provided CPR with something.
3 months later
Quoted from REGNE:I have a new TMS, but I want to add a fan to it first. Anyone else do this?
I remember some instructions out there somewhere...
1 week later
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:I understand why people hate this game. Finally repinned J1 and my switch issues went away!
... except now completely at random half of my solenoids don’t respond.
I put it in solenoid test and took a video of it. Seriously.
Sometimes 2-4 cycles would work flawlessly, and then suddenly the drop target bank stops working, then the kick out hole stops working, then none of the memory targets.
THEN THE NEXT CYCLE THEY ALL WORK AGAIN.
How does this keep happening?!? Why do these issues seem totally and completely bizarre??
Cracked solder joints? Worn out header pins? Bad crimps?
2 months later
Quoted from gutz:Sorry, I should have mentioned that I am testing the vidiot in a fully working game that has had all of the connectors replaced. All the headers on project vidiot are also replaced.
Solder bridge or shorted trace on the PCB? Malfunctioning CPU chip?
3 months later
Quoted from chuckwurt:Cut off my battery and want to add a battery holder. I have one that takes three AAs. Just solder positive wire to positive and negative to negative? Do I need a diode?
Not interested in NVRAM.
Thanks!
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#AA_Battery_pack
However, I'd suggest NVRAM. It's an easy chip swap on this game system.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Yep. So if it’s a 3 AA pack, does it matter where I put the diode in the pack?
It's usually easiest in a battery holder with 4 spaces, rather than 3, as described in the link I posted earlier.
The diode has to go somewhere between the positive terminal of the first battery and I think it's R12 on the MPU.
8 months later
Quoted from RaoulJuke:anyone using LEDS in these
Yes
Quoted from RaoulJuke:did they need to modify anything to make them work correctly?
Nope
1 month later
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Seeking the large pacman plastic
Lower left
Lmk if you have a used non broken from
Perhaps a new plastic set install
Message me if you have one up for grabs
[quoted image]
Phoenix Arcade has the full set if you can't find the individual piece:
https://www.phoenixarcade.com/products/baby-pac-man/baby-pac-man-plastics
Pretty much any pots with the same resistance and watt values will work.
I prefer to use cermet trimmers since they're sealed and there isn't an exposed wheel that can be accidentally bumped. GPE does have them--they're just called trimmers instead of potentiometers:
2 months later
Quoted from mohega8:Help! My sound gets mixed up after 5-10minutes of play on my Baby Pac-Man
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"3b0b786b232b3230f5aec12b9abc847656b533ab-1630571594-1800"};
//]]>I've acquired a clean cab in fantastic condition. New MPU boards and I've gone ahead and replaced all the headers. Upon start up it will skip the tune, however, everything passes in the communication test and I get the "ray gun" sound. The game plays perfectly, until about 2-3 games in after the first power-on, the sounds suddenly get mixed up. For example, the sound of the pellets being collected is instead the game start tune. I'm looking for ANY advice that can help narrow down this issue. Does this seem like a trace problem on the vidiot board? Possible capacitor issues? Wrong wiring? What could be most probable and where to look? I've worked my way from the power supply but must be missing something. Thanks for any assistance!
Are the sound ROMs installed in the correct places?
Are the legs in the sound ROMs clean? If they're tarnished, you can clean them with a pink rubber eraser.
Also keep in mind that ROMs/eproms can fail or fail under certain conditions (such as after they warm up).
Consider replacing any faulty ones.
10 months later
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:Hoping someone here could maybe help me out. As shown, I have a ground wire by my left flipper button, and I can’t seem to figure out where I’m supposed to put it. Any thoughts?
[quoted image]
Coin door lug?
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:I don’t think it’s long enough to reach the coin door. I currently attached it to the left speaker but it was more a guess than anything.
I see wire attached to speaker cover bolts, and screwed down on the small plate that the locking bar for the CPO goes through.
2 months later
Quoted from Lithonion:These will also work from Great Plains.
3386P-1-252 or 3362P-1-252 for the 2.5K
3386P-1-103 or 3362P-1-103 for the 10K
3386P-1-102 or 3362P-1-102 for the 1K
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=122
Unfortunately, GPE is closed.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:The or part always confuses me. Which one should I get? The slighty more expensive version?
They are physically different sizes.
I don't remember which size I installed, but I think I ordered both just in case. Whatever size I used was a tight fit.
1 month later
Quoted from Sirgubster9:went to the website, seemed like they where still selling stuff, sadly they are all out of my sync one though the 10k. so I put my email in and hopefully they will email me when back in stock, anyone know any other place to get them in the meantime? My machine plays fine but then after awhile the screen starts to sag, and then the screen full on goes diagonal and blurry. I think i just need to replace the sync guy... fingers crossed. [quoted image]
GPE is closed for the forseeable future, possibly permanently. You will have to go elsewhere.
There is a list of suppliers here: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Pinball_Parts_Suppliers
Just sort by the electronics components column. Mouser, newark, and digikey will probably have something. If not, check arrow, or some of the others.
4 months later
Quoted from Skatewake:Anybody have the original coin box for their game? if so, can you post a picture? or if there is one for sale, let me know.
Thanks,
Photos here:
1 week later
Quoted from Skatewake:Anybody have a communication problem? For some reason i don’t have the numbers even coming up on the screen. Any suggestions?
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Baby_Pac-Man#Communications_Test_Problems
Quoted from Willl:I got my hands on a Baby Pac Man this week. Looks all original but doesn’t work unfortunately. Needs a good cleaning. Seems to be in great shape. From some research I’ve been doing it does suffer from the battery leakage issue on the mpu board. Seems to be isolated to that board only from what I can see. Is there anywhere I can find a good condition as-2518-133? My plan would be to get an original board, and perhaps do a battery relocation kit. If I have to get an Alltek I would but would really like it original. Or if someone know where I can start testing the mpu board that would be a real help as well.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Slightly cheaper option:
https://nvram.weebly.com/mpu.html
Finding a *clean* original board will be difficult, though there are no shortage of battery damaged ones available.
If your choices are sending it out for repair or buying a new, I don't know if techs are even accepting battery damaged bally MPUs any more since the aftermarket replacements are going to be less expensive than a repair.
If you want to fix it yourself, clip off the battery, clip off any parts that are corroding, treat it with zep, sand it down to the copper traces, zep again, populate with new parts, seal the exposed traces.
There are many threads on the forums that deal with this, and you can start your own thread to ask for further advice.
This is also a good resource for repair info:
Quoted from Pinash:Similar subject, does anyone besides eldorado games service the vidiot board?
I've seen a few people on the forums mention that they service them, though I can't recall who off the top of my head.
1 month later
Quoted from Skatewake:Is there any good replacement of the playfield feature light for the Baby Pac-Man. I thought I could use the Yopsicles and they only work in some of them because they stay light all the time? I have a new playfield for mine and I would like to upgrade the lights. Thanks
It uses a lamp matrix with diodes. Popsicles don't include diodes, so you'll need to add them or go with a different solution.
Someone recently designed a lamp board for the lamp grid in the middle of the playfield.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/baby-pac-man-led-playfield-light-matrix-pcb/
Quoted from Skatewake:Hey ForceFlow, can you elaborate on the diode usage?
Personally, I wouldn't use yoppsicles--I prefer having any kind of lamp socket so I can swap out bulbs.
But if you're set on it, you'll probably have to add a mounting tab (aka solder lug, solder tab, or screw solder tab, etc) for each "bulb" to have something to mount the diode to (if you mount them using the same screw as the yoppcicle PCBs, you'll probably have to add an insulator between the PCB and the tab). Then you just copy the schematics from there for how they should be wired up.
3 weeks later
Quoted from pinballplusMN:Just a shout out to David Shoemaker for repairing my Videot board. Lots of previous hacks etc. He did a great job and was reasonable. Adding mods to it to run better etc. Not sure if he posts here or not. Its such a fun game when its gone through and on my bucket list.
What mods? I haven't heard of doing anything other than adding heatsinks for a couple of the video chips. I'd be interested to here if there's anything else being done to these boards.
Quoted from Pinash:Before I make my template, can someone spot check their decals to see if it’s square to the back on the cabinet (or angled like mine)? I’m guessing Bally didn’t have time to line these up on the assembly line.[quoted image]
Mine are a little crooked and really close to the back edge of the cabinet. I'm not sure if they were paying a whole lot of attention when they stuck these decals onto some of these cabs.
2 months later
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:Has anybody made a "replacement board"??
No, but I do see spare boards pop up from time to time.
1 month later
Quoted from Lithonion:only 3 on the MPU LED. I think I recall somewhere reading the MPU should get 6 blinks during boot?
Your MPU isn't booting.
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally/Stern#Bally_.2F_Stern_MPU_Board_LED_Flash_Sequence
2 months later
Quoted from Biffbar:That's ebay redirecting you to a current auction.
Not an auction--just a buy it now listing.
2 months later
Quoted from HopsWaterBarley:Ok, so while I’m waiting on some parts to arrive for re-pinning my connectors, changing flipper coils and a few other things, my mind was thinking about all the other things I can be doing in the meantime. I had my son help me take a few pics of the feet on my baby, and boy are they gross! Anyone have advice on the type I need to order for replacement? [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Same as a pinball leveler. Use 2" stem levelers.
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