just adjust the switch to the saucer and gap it closer (make it more sensitive) and play with the glass off to test it.

It also appears those lines would go away if you turned the brightness down a bit. Probably could use a cap kit as well.

Those lines you see are horizontal raster lines. Your monitor is out of adjustment. You want to remove the video feed to the monitor with power off. Leave power going to the monitor and turn on the game. Turn the brightness all the way down using the brightness pot. You will still see those lines. Then you want to adjust the screen pot on the flyback. This should be the lower pot. The upper should be focus. Adjust the screen pot on the flyback till the lines can no longer be seen. After that power it off, hook up your video signal and power it back on. Then adjust the brightness to get your picture dialed in.

If you need I can get some pictures of what needs to be done.

Thanks chuckwurt. That did the trick.

Lithonion, yes, if you have a chance could post some pictures of what needs to be done? Thanks!

Sorry I forgot the 13 wells gardner doesn't have brightness pot so you don't need to kill the video source. Just turn on your BPM and if you have a small desk mirror or a mirror you can set up to look at as you adjust the the screen or call on someone to tell you what they see. That usually takes longer. My son loves to help and he is color blind to yellow and green. You can guess how mine looked after adjusting the colors. lol

PICTURE 1: Pink line is to the pot you want to adjust mine still has the label. This is on the right side of you chassis.
Ok so your first adjustment will be the VSIZE. Just adjust it either way to get rid of your screen fold. If the screen starts to slip side to side then use the VHOLD to stop it. It shouldn't but it has that chance. Once this is adjusted you will probably notice some of the green overtone will go away.

Screen_adjustment_(3)_(resized).JPG

PICTURE 2: Pink line again to the pot you want to adjust. Far right pot on the flyback.
You want to turn this counter clockwise until your green lines fade out but you still have a picture.
If you keep turning and you can not get those lines to go away you will need to recap your monitor.

Screen_adjustment_(2)_(resized).JPG

PICTURE 3: This picture is just for reference if your colors are all wonkie.
The two pots you can see. Top Red line is the red driver and the green one under is the green driver. Don't touch these unless adjusting all the colors doesn't get results in green and red adjustments.
There are three pots under you cant see in the picture. These are directly for color settings. They are color marked by my high tech photo editing skills. Red Cutoff, Green Cutoff, and Blue Cutoff.

Screen_adjustment_(1)_(resized).JPG

Thanks Lithonion! Those pictures are a God-send! I was able to adjust to picture so that the vertical lines are no longer appearing. Now my only issue is the fold-over. I tried adjusting the VSIZE pot like you suggested, but that didn't get rid of the foldover line. One thing I will say, sometimes the foldover line seems to slowly become more pronounced the longer the game is on. Other times, it's just on the same amount for the full duration the game is on.

Appreciate the help in getting rid of the raster lines. Now the fold-over is my only lingering monitor issue. Any other ideas what might be causing this?

And for reference, here's what it looks like now.

image_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).jpeg

Question for you all!

Been tinkering with my Baby Pac Man Monitor for a few years. Some days it works, some days it doesn't. I adjust the pots, get it right. Then it starts bouncing again after a few mins or hours, as in the picture zooms in and out in a flickering pulse. I am honestly fed up with CRT's, I tried a converter from china to LCD but the converter never worked.
Has anyone used a converter to LCD, if so what did you find and learn. I would like to convert to LCD and be done with it. As much as I love how a good CRT looks, any kind of pulse or flicker drives me nuts.

Spock, I can't help you with the LCD conversion but on your CRT issue, it sounds like you have a bad solder joint on your monitor chassis. If your able to safely remove the chassis from the monitor, try reflowing the solder connections on all the large resistors, coils, connector pins, large transistors and the fly back.

Also if adjusting the pots get it to work. Get a good contact cleaner that is safe on plastics and leaves no residue and spray the heck out of em. You will have to wiggle the pots as you do and readjust it all afterwards. Just make sure it is not on or plugged in when you do.

I was getting constant screen flickering on mine and this resolved the problem.

Do you know if the board has ever been recapped? If it where mine I would get a cap kit and recap it.

First of all, thanks to everyone in this group, I've learned a heckuva lot, and gotten my Baby Pac working better than it did when I first got it.

Now, to my new issue.... has anyone had problems where the bulbs under the inserts stop working after replacing others? For example, the U, I, and S in FRUITS stopped working for me. So I decided to replace the bulbs in those spots. Now, NONE of the letters in FRUITS are lighting up.

Did I screw something up here (obviously)? What would be my next troubleshooting steps to figure out the culprit.

No, I had the game off while changing bulbs.

Super helpful links! Thanks ForceFlow! I'm going to give that MCR106 a shot.

-JP

Random post: If your monitor is pulsing, flickering, shaking, zooming or any other erratic behavior. Before you replace all the caps or replace all the pots. Make sure your sync cable and connector and pins are all making good contact. If it is not, you will get all bunch of random issues.

Recently solved this issue and wanted to tell the club. It is not always the worst, it is sometimes the least. Do this first before you rip stuff out.

Hi everyone... Having an issue and hopefully someone can point me in the right direction...

I'm having an issue with my 3 kickout holes and the drop target reset solenoids. None are working. I've got flippers and PF power, everything scores, just no kickouts or target reset. I have the schematic, just need a nudge in the right direction to start looking for the issue.

Thanks in advance,
-Steve

Have you checked the 1 amp slow blow fuse specifically for these solenoids? I can't remember where exactly this fuse is located, I seem to think it was a single fuse holder under the playfield. Did you check it with a meter?

Yes, it was the 1A fuse under the PF next to the right flipper mech. But I think I also found what caused the fuse to blow. I had 6 loose pins on J8 where the solenoid returns are. Repaired those and all is good!

Cool! Congrats on the fix!

Good news! Still bringing to LAX?

Yes, it will be there for sale or trade. We'll see what happens. Good luck at KY SCS today Erik!

-Steve

Hey yall, I'm having an issue with my playfield lights not working properly, and hoping some of you more experienced Baby Pac owners could help me out.

I know that each 2N5060 on the Driver board, corresponds to 2 lights on the playfield.

I'm noticing a pattern. For each 2N5060, I have 1 working light, and 1 non-working light.

What could be the culprit for this? I know one of the suggestions to upgrading is to replace the 2N5060s with MCR-106-1's. Before doing that though, I just want to make sure there are no other obvious things I should be checking for. I've checked diodes for each lamp and they all test out fine. I figure there has to be a reason as to why I'm seeing this particular pattern of working vs. non-working lights.

Any ideas? Thanks!

If the lamps have the same returns, then check the fuses.
phase (A)
phase (B)

Where are the fuses located? Are they part of the group of 4 fuses found on the Power Transformer Module?

Never mind. Found them under the playfield. You were right. Blown fuse. LOL Thanks vec-tor!

Just finished the restoration on mine. I'll be bringing it to the TPF for all to play.

IMG_4742 (resized).JPG

IMG_4743 (resized).JPG

IMG_4744 (resized).JPG

IMG_4756 (resized).JPG

IMG_4758 (resized).JPG

IMG_4757 (resized).JPG

IMG_4759 (resized).JPG

IMG_4760 (resized).JPG

IMG_4761 (resized).JPG

hassellcastle
Wow. That is gorgeous.

Looks great!

A few weeks ago my Baby Pac-man died. The problem turned out to be battery corrosion on the MPU board which was my fault. I have had the game for 17 years and put a new Nicad 3 cell cordless phone battery on the MPU back in 2000 which had been keeping the high score up until 6 months ago but I knew better and should have replaced the battery years ago. The game once again is working and I made a 4 part video series showing the process I went though to repair the game. Here's the youtube link if anyone is interested.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLQmsA4osgEEAAJtx82NrFJ780yrbOkk4K

I just picked up a Baby Pacman yesterday - super thrilled about it. I played it as a kid and thought it was such a unique and weird machine. It was just fascinating. This one came with a Alltek MPU board which sounds to me that I might have dodged a bullet in troubleshooting. The monitor is really pretty too, very dark blacks, good color, no burn-in! The playfield condition is marvelous.

Now for the dumb question - how does one level this machine? Is it all based on the cabinet feet? If so, what should the angle of the playfield be, and how (or where) do you measure the cabinet being level?

My playfield is a little slow and while it has a good left-right balance, I'm not sure the front-back is angled correctly as the ball has rested between the inlane and top of the flipper before.

Sounds like you got a nice BPM. I use a Craftsman Digital Torpedo Level and yes you adjust everything with the feet.
I have mine set at 6 degrees slope and it is pretty fast. I have thought of dropping it to 5.5 and see how it plays but I am lazy.
I do love the torpedo level it has worked very well for me. As with any pin just adjust it with the level on the playfield.

pretty cool, didn't know we had a club. my pacman has been sitting somewhat broken in my living room for 2 years. I keep buying other projects and knock it down the priority list. I saw it on some video and went looking for one. Finally got one for 1k, spent probably another 1k on parts. bought 2 vidiot boards, I have no idea if any of them work though.

Wish I could find a spare vidiot board for the Granny. Those parts are near impossible to find.

I've been watching this club anxiously awaiting for my baby to arrive. Finally I got one, snagged from a stale Facebook ad I just happened to inquire about!

I made a deal I know this thread would drool over! Bundled with my Baby Pac was a huge spare WORKING board set including 1 Vidiot, 2 extra MPU's 1 extra solenoid driver board, a different Bally lamp board (for parts I guess?) as well as a Vidiot Deluxe for Granny and the Gators (I can dream)

It wouldn't start a game when I bought it and many lamps were locked on.
Got it home after a 10+ hour round trip (should have only been 7... how foolish I was!) and it started almost no issues.

First only the bottom switches worked.
Then the flippers died and only the top half worked. I finagled the connectors, which he said he redid the problematic ones J1-3 and most the playfield bar the right saucer worked!

Xmit 40 kept failing and turns out J1 pin 27, I believe, broke right off completely when I investigated. Thankfully the seller also gave me a complete connector kit with tons of spare connectors and pins!
Honestly most of the IDC connectors are fine and give me no issues, I suspect oxidation on the pins after many years caused the flakey connection errors. Worked them through and now it's playing well!

Tons of lamps were dead or locked on. P C A and the energizers were stuck on. As well as TUN L
The solenoid board he had in there is garbage as it seems. Over half the transistors must be blown. The spare he gave me is nearly flawless!

My one persistent issue is that TU N L and the left arrow are still locked on and this persisted for both boards. And I know you're probably not supposed to do this but I unhooked the solenoid/lamp board completely while it was on to see what would happen and with the board completely unhooked those same lights (TU N L & Arrow) still stay locked on!! I suspect there must be some weird short somehow keeping them lit since they stay on without a lamp board.
Although for sure Q30 is dead on the good solenoid because the very last row the A and energizer is out and it works on the crappy board that locked everything else out.
So all lights are good. I looked at the schematic and noted that Q 2 and Q 4 are responsible for the TUNNEL and arrow that stays on. But I don't think it's the transistors as I said that are causing it as it persists with both boards. And the U is extremely bright and flashes at half brightness. Very perculiar...

If any guru out there can offer suggestions I appreciate it! Be detailed as I know some electrical board related things but others I'm clueless about.
Also I don't have access to a digital multimeter but I have a analog one. So if someone knows how to test transistors with an analog meter I'd greatly appreciate it!!

My last question is advice on the playfield.
This Baby Pac is special because it belonged to the legendary Fun spot in NH! It even has tokens from 92, 96-98 in the coin box! So the game does have some wear in spots but it isn't terrible in my opinion. And I believe it has Mylar on it but again I'm not too sure about some of these things.
It has white specks and what seems to be delamination but I'd like to keep the playfield original and touch it up and protect it on a budget!

Suggestions of all kinds appreciated! Oh and if anyone has some LED suggestions let me know because I'd really like to LED this playfield and lite the "apron" Mr & Mrs Pac but I don't want to drill new holes, so what's the easiest way to tap into an existing socket and light those guys?

IMG_6748.JPG

IMG_6777.JPG

IMG_6762.JPG

IMG_6747.JPG

IMG_6779.JPG

IMG_6780.JPG

I didn't want to confuse anyone so here is what the other Lamp board gives me when's plugged in! (Note: this is of course all the lights locked on when it flashes and they all go out)

IMG_6774.JPG

Sorry I should have been more clear! I already fixed the broken pin and haven't had any other issues. Just the driver board being wonky!
I also cleaned the drop targets because they were being difficult and found this coil, it looks burned out but it works just fine when I test it and it hasn't given me any issues. Should I replace it or just have a spare on hand? Does this indicate the coil is dying or that it just got stuck on but is otherwise okay?

IMG_6794.JPG

IMG_6793.JPG

IMG_6796.JPG

IMG_6797.JPG

The hole still fits and it seems to plunge alright. I will order a replacement though, all I need is the number on the coil right, "C1-31-2000" ? Someone posted a while back in this thread saying the springs are unobtainium... only the cooked spring is broken but they do the job for now.

I already thoroughly read the pinrepair wiki, haha Don't worry I did my due diligence before posting! I mentioned in my first post about the Q2, Q4 and Q30 which should be the ones that are fried. But I was asking if they go bad would that cause some lights to be stuck on?
Q30 is stuck off even when I test it they don't light so I assume must only mean Q30 is bad.
However the tunnel lights controlled by Q2 are on and when the light test blinks they blink by going about half dim. Q4 lights the L and arrow and that stays on solid and doesn't blink at all.
I don't have a digital multimeter, can an analog one be used to test SCR's?

These lights are the only concern before moving on to the playfield repair. Everything else is working quite well!

Usually when the SCRs fail, they fail off and impact both lights on that pair (neither will light). I suspect they could fail ON but it seems suspect that you have several failed in that condition. To know for sure if it is the SCR or the 74154 that drives the SCR or something upstream of it, you need a logic probe to probe the input to that SCR to see if it is pulsing or stuck on.

Wouldn't be the worst idea to shotgun replace one of those SCRs to see if that resolves it. Order a bunch because they seem to go bad frequently. Instead of the stock 2N5060, I would get the 2N5064. About the same price but a little more beefy.

I'm joining the club but it ain't pretty

IMG_1718 (resized).JPG

Doesn't look to bad, what happened to the T-molding?

See that strap around the belly? Yeah it's holding the entire cab from falling apart in four different directions The base is completely rotted which separated all four sides. My plan is to actually disassemble, mock up, cut new wood and build a brand new cab for it. If there are prints out there that I can use even better but for now thats the plan.

While dirty, the playfield is in good condition. Not sure about the boards or monitor. Could be a clusterf*** for all I know...but I love a challenge.

Holy shit... I see what you mean... otherwise how is the cab? It doesn't look to bad? I'd keep it but that's me. I can't see what the sides look like from the picture.
That's crazy though. Does it play or have you not even tested it?
Baby Pac is such an addicting game
I don't regret buying it at all.
If you need help let me know. I'm not an expert but I'm figuring it out decently I think!

Also I don't believe anyone has ever mentioned this before... but did you guys realize the sounds from between the sick/stuttered-Pac theme and the normal pack theme is different?!
I have 3 working vidiots (like a hoard of gold for this sucker) and 2 of them play the normal sound while the original one for the machine plays the stuttered theme.
The stuttered theme has flatter sounds for the ghosts while the regular board has high-pitched noises and also plays a slightly different death noise..
I just noticed while testing them while very minor it is unmistakable and I think prefer the regular ones!

Well that's interesting. I just sold my Baby Pac, but it was a later model with the single light board for the entire center of the pinball playfield. It had the stuttering pac theme on boot. I also had a spare Vidiot board for it, and it also played the stuttering theme. I never knew there was a non stuttering version!

Yes! I think TNT may have mentioned it in a video, not many other places do. Pinwiki may.
It's weird though because you'd think it would be the other way around but in fact the normal startup seems to be on the early games, probably between SN3500 and 4000 it swapped, judging by my board numbers. Anyone else with a low number board SN please let me know! I'm thinking of adding these to the IPSND but maybe not since most people aren't aware of it!
Not sure why the switch but it seems to be predominately the one they used.
My game has a late serial number, 6533, for the cab and some boards, but the Vidiot is an early 3400~ SN. The playfield in it also has that horrendous wire-post style that is aweful to change I'd love to swap it out

I will admit that from the front the cab doesn't look that bad but trust me it's not worth saving. Too much swelling of all the wood at the bottom to even attempt a repair. It must have sat in a puddle for a few years. This machine was part of a 10 machine lot I bought last year. Some were garbage, some worth making a run at. This one I graded 4 of 10 which normally I would punt down the road but it's a BabyPac and probably the only one I'll ever have a chance to do.

Thanks for the offer to help. I might lean on you for some advice. Nice to know this thread is here. Have a good morning!