normally i like all original but that looks super cool!!! if you end up figuring out the extra things needed I may end up copying you

oh question guys, Im guessing my cabinet has been altered but are your front and back leg levelers the same size? and if so, are they smaller than the standard pinball and arcade levelers or are they the same?

Every time I do something non-original like that thinking it is cool, I end up hating it and having to revert it back to original later... so now I just don't do that anymore. I agree it does look cool though.

Control Panel Lock needs replacement but it’s not a normal size

Seems a touch longer

Can anyone help ?

I had to drill it out as the key was MIA :-/

It’s been ages since I looked. I’m pretty sure they should be pinball sized, the cabinet bottom has circles cut out for them. Use the smaller 2inch ones.

It’s the standard size hole, but I believe it’s a deeper lock, I believe 7/8ths

The back two on my cabinet use the standard size pinball levelers, but the front are smaller and the pinball ones wont fit and Ive had trouble finding smaller levelers...thought maybe it was a standard baby pacman thing.

Help! My sound gets mixed up after 5-10minutes of play on my Baby Pac-Man
I've acquired a clean cab in fantastic condition. New MPU boards and I've gone ahead and replaced all the headers. Upon start up it will skip the tune, however, everything passes in the communication test and I get the "ray gun" sound. The game plays perfectly, until about 2-3 games in after the first power-on, the sounds suddenly get mixed up. For example, the sound of the pellets being collected is instead the game start tune. I'm looking for ANY advice that can help narrow down this issue. Does this seem like a trace problem on the vidiot board? Possible capacitor issues? Wrong wiring? What could be most probable and where to look? I've worked my way from the power supply but must be missing something. Thanks for any assistance!

Thank you for your prompt response. I've attached pictures for further information. I had the ROMs/eproms replaced where I believe the sound comes from, but still no luck.

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Just had a killer game - my personal best.

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What do you have it set on that you’re getting way into the millions? I have mine on 3 Baby’s no carry-over except extra baby Target memory.

Do most people put it on 5-ball with carry-over?

No, I have mine set the same way you do - 3 baby's with no extra baby stacking. Keep in mind, I have owned a Baby Pac for many, many years and have been setting the high scores on this table since 2017. You have to develop a strategy to optimize your extra babies, and play amazing pinball and video to get up into the millions. Keep it up, you will get there.

And if you want to see an insane "3 baby" score, check out chuckwurt's HS - over 4MM. EDIT - oops, nevermind. I did not notice but that score was achieved on a 5 baby game. Looks like my newly posted score is the highest 3 baby score on pinside.

Bad PIA I think. Replace U7.

G'day guys, I love this game but mine is being a real brat. It had been running fairly well for a while but the video would drop out after being on for long periods. I assumed this was due overheating, especially as its quite hot over her in Brisbane.

This morning though i played a game and it all booted fine, but half way through doing the maze the video dropped out. When i reset the game the Vidiot board was failing on the 5th flash (ie 4 good flashes, then fail). From reading online i can see this is a sign that the U10 on the Vidiot board had gone bad. To confirm, the pinball portion of the game appears to be fine, as you hear the solenoids fire at boot up and it proceeds into the attract lighting feature. I removed U10 and gave the prongs a clean in the ultrasonic cleaner and i was able to get it to complete the flashing sequence, however the image was totally stuffed - just squiggly lines.

I continued to work my way through various Eproms and at one point got the game to boot and work ok again, but the video once again failed half way through a maze. Now it will not go past the 5th flash again.

Here in Brisbane there is only really 1 guy that i truely believe has the skillset to repair these things & he actually has another one on site to work on (admittedly, not working also). I do believe he can fix the game no problems, however he requires me to drop the full machine off to him - but also has several month waiting times due to being do in demand - could be without the machine for up to 6 months.

based on what i am writing, does it sound likely i only need to replace U10 on the Vidiot board, or is there likely a plethora of problems going on with the board? Is there any chance of me replacing that U10 and it working? Either way i will still get him to work on the machine once he is ready as i think it could benefit from his skills, but obviously if its working i can still use it & hold off delivery once he is ready to roll and still get some enjoyment out of it.

The game is without a doubt my favourite piece of arcade eye candy in my games room , so i really don't want it gone for a long period if not need be,

It most likely U10 or it’s socket. Any corrosion on the board? U10 often gets hit when the mpu battery leaks. Inspect the socket closely. It probably has some corrosion on some of the pins.

I think you are right - when i applied pressure to the U10 and got another person in front of the game i was able to get it working and playing without issue until i unapplied the pressure and it instantly went off

Where can I find a heat sink for the 40pin IC

U8 or U16

Any links are great

Replace the socket

I'm tasked with installing an overlay for Baby Pacman. Is it necessary to clear the bare wood prior to installation?

what material is on the wood for this cabinet? its not just a normal vinyl sticker right? that yellow feels super cool and different than all my other cabs.

I would highly recommend clearing it. I had to put an overlay on mine and it's coming up on 5 years and still going strong. I was told to make it full proof to clear coat it after the overlay is on if you want it to last you for the life of your machine. I did not clear mine after and still very happy with it. Here is mine before and after. I did leave it for probably a week after it was all back together before I rolled a pinball on it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/baby-pacman-clubwaka-waka-waka/page/7#post-4074442

I recall reading somewhere it's a type of laminate they did on this cab as well as some arcade cabinets. There was also someone that was making resto cabs with the laminate years back but no longer available.

Thank you

oh good enough, let me know if you recall anything more, because ya this laminate is significantly different than anything on any of my other arcades.

I found this old forum thread I saved and this guy restored three arcade cabinets and he re laminated them all. It's the same stuff they use on laminate counter tops. I really want to do this to my BPM at some point as the cab needs some TLC. After putting a Mylar overlay on my BPM never doing it before and it came out great I figure I can't make the cab any worse than it is now as the paint job is terrible. (I didn't paint it). Only problem is I can't do it till our last dog is no longer with us so that's a few years out. She is blind and I can't do any work in the house and the pin is in her safe space. No outside shop so I do everything inside. lol Ok I am rambling here is the thread url.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=150293.0

your a good guy man, poor dog. thanks for the link. and if and when you do decide to give this a whirl, let me know how its goes. my cabinet is still in super good shape except the very bottom is pretty water damaged all the way around, even prevents the t molding from staying put and that bums me out. the last guy had nailed it in which also bummed me out but i now see why he did it.

Trying to locate a couple of these
Anyone know who stocks heatsinks

https://console5.com/store/dip40-heatsink-glue-on-thermal-epoxy-on-style-dip-40.html

I have bought these heatsinks and just cut them down to size. Super easy as it is just half and half (half length and half the width).
Cuts easily on bandsaw if you have one. Sand down edges smooth add thermal tape and you are good to go.
If you don't feel it's something you can do just let me know and I'll order some more and cut them down to size for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Antrader-100mm-Aluminum-Heatsink-MOSFET/dp/B07CVVPC7S/ref=pd_day0fbt_1/141-6524031-0447337

Its ALIVE! After replacing the mpu with a nvrram board, and replacing the sockets on the vidiot board its running now. Still have some switches to adjust, get some new plastics, and an overlay for the playfield since I missed out on a cpr playfield. But I can play it for now. Securing funds is also a battle. LOL

Brian

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Anyone ever pursue the PDI glass for Baby Pac?

Bought a new mpu some time ago.I was getting an error message on the screen about 10-15 min after power up withe the old one.
Just installed the new one now.
Can someone confirm that the dip switch settings on my board are correct?
I looked at the document on their website and according to the baby pac man settings ,my dip switches should be correct.

Seems like there is no free play option and when i coin up, the credits does not show on the screen.
Besides that it plays fine. Been powerd on now for about 2 hours.

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Anyone who has the same mpu that can help me out ?

Download the Baby Pac-Man manual if you don't have it already and adjust the DIP switch settings to the way you want the game configured.

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=125

The credit display is enabled by DIP switch 27. You need to put it in the ON position.
Looks like if you put DIP switch 30 ON, it enables freeplay.

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I have the same MPU in my Granny n the Gators. Looks like your Game Selection DIP switches are correct for Baby Pac...

Just copied the dip switch settings from the old mpu.
Free play is now on so everything looks ok.

Bought a couple of led strips for the lower side of the playfield but need to know where i can hook up the alligator clips on the lamp socket.

I also have a bulb that doesen't light up so i will try and change the diode on the socket.
I read that you could use the 1N4004 diode but i have only 1N4007 on hand so i need to know if that is something i can use instead.

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There's not problem using a 1N4007 to replace a 1N4004. Difference it that the maximum supported voltage for the 1N4004 is 400 volts while the maximum voltage spec for a 1N4007 is 1000 volts.

Thanks for the info.
Now i just need to know where to hook up the alligator clips

Any tips ?

I hooked mine up to the GI lighting where the 3 sockets are for the slingshots. I soldered mine in just one wire on each side, but you can try to see if your clips will work.

Hoping someone here could maybe help me out. As shown, I have a ground wire by my left flipper button, and I can’t seem to figure out where I’m supposed to put it. Any thoughts?

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I don’t think it’s long enough to reach the coin door. I currently attached it to the left speaker but it was more a guess than anything.

On mine it's attached as shown, to the metal plate where the lock down bar is attached.

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Oh perfect, Thank-you!

Baby pacman people need your help. Had to move my machine into a storage container. Just got it out and it booted right up thank God! But all 5 of the targets at the top all keep going up and down over and over again whether I'm in pinball mode or arcade mode non stop. I've done everything I know how to do which is remove all the connectors and plug them back in on all the boards on the back ha ha. What should I try next to fix this problem?

Test the left target (1) switch and the right target (5) switch. If those aren't registering properly, it can cause the target to repeatedly reset.