Yes, just make sure that when it’s on if you’re working on the game, such as replacing lights, don’t get the lockdown anywhere near the playfield. Lay a rag over it or remove it.

The playfield easily slides forward and can stand up with the drop target bank resting on the bottom wooden panel. It’s very handy.

When playing it, it was awful without the lockdown! We had to hold it down with our free hand and be careful not to go too hard in the game!

I put weather stripping tape on my control panel on the top edge that sits on the glass. I think I used 1" thick weather stripping from Home Depot. They make lockdown bar gasket that you will pay a premium for but all it is, is weather stripping.

Most monitors of this period had a dark plastic screen to help enhance the rich colors of the monitor.
It blacks out the background of the monitor so that the images can "pop" and not get washed out.

Here is my post on me replacing the plexi between the glass and CRT as well as a link the the actual plexi I purchased. It's almost an exact match. You will have to cut it and drill the holes.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/baby-pacman-clubwaka-waka-waka/page/11#post-4499297

https://www.estreetplastics.com/Plexiglass-Grey-Smoked-1-8-x-12-x-24-p/t801251224.htm

Anybody have issues with both saucer coils burning up at the same time? I haven’t dug into it too far yet, but both are definitely fried. (.012ohm & .000ohm measurements) What would cause this? Bridge rectifier gone bad?

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WTF! I am shocked. I had issues when I FIRST got my machine. Believe one of the ram chips was bad and it locked on random solenoids.

Try to replace U5 CA3081 transistor array... the IC's are at the "end-of-life"

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Found fuse blown. 43vdc under Playfield. Over fused at 3A SB. Supposed to be 1A SB.

Wondering about A2 voltages. No voltage at TP1 or TP2 because no windings in the transformer. Correct? 54000C9B-C248-4A54-A80B-927C555CC593 (resized).jpeg
Other voltages are OK at TP3,TP4, &TP5(43vdc)

Oops. Not Q39 & Q40. Q38 (for RH saucer) & Q39 (for LH saucer) are the drive transistors. I’ve also got some TIP102 coming for those.

I am wondering. If coils lock on, how does the sleeve melt between the plunger and coil stop. (The plungers were at rest position)
Coils heated up, fuse blew, plungers went back to rest, sleeves then melted/continued to melt?

The U5 leaks... causes current to continue through coils...
heats up... not enough to energize plunger... melts plastic coil insides.

Understood.

Found Q38 shorted and removed it. Also removed U3 & U5. Washed board. Put in sockets for new CA3081s. Waiting on Marco now. Anyway to check the old CA3081s? Would you guys also replace Q39 in this situation?
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Hi,

I just joined the club this week. I’ve wanted one for a long time and finally found one to bring home.

I want to swap out the incandescents for LEDs and was wondering if there is anything special that needs to be done on a Baby Pac-man to support LED bulbs and prevent flickering, ghosting, etc. Mine does not have the nice board with twist sockets, unfortunately.

Also, any recommendations on LED kits or brands? I have done several pins before and used Pinball Life non-ghosting and kits from Pinballbulbs. Just wondering if anybody thinks one brand is better looking or better performing on this particular pin.

Thanks!

Baby Pac-Man happens to be the exception among Bally’s and you don’t have to do anything special to use LEDs. They just work! I prefer Comet but PL LEDs are fine too.

It’s a great game. I would highly suggest changing the rules to “carries over arrow memory” from ball to ball. And also make sure that your life doesn’t end when the ball drains. And only 3 lives!

The “extra baby” arrow memory feature improved the game for me immensely.

Great, thanks!

I think the default is that energizer memory is off while center arrows memory is on. I reverse that so center memory is off and energizer memory is on. It makes it more likely that the player can actually use their energizers decreasing the frustration there, but making it more difficult to get an extra ball... and provides motivation not to lose your ball to see the center arrows reset. To me, these are the perfect settings. I think when I played in the arcade when I was a kid, the energizer memory was off, so I'd think I would still want to keep it that way, but just too frustrating to lose energizers after you've worked so hard for them.

Marco order came Saturday.

I put in the 2 new CA3081 into the sockets I had installed at U3 and U5.
I put in a TIP102 at Q38. I went ahead and replaced Q39 with a TIP102 as well.
Put in new coils/sleeves/diodes (AO-27-1300) at the saucers. (Note: Yellow wires should be to the lug with banded side of diode.)
New 1A SB fuse under playfield for the 43VDC. (fuse location is closest to RH flipper mech)

I initially had no flippers, but quickly found out I had .156 connections in the wrong place at the board.
Even with keys they can fit multiple locations.
Mistake: J7 was behind the board and I had connected J10 at J7. I had nothing at J10.

(I suggest first referencing the photos that were taken of the wiring to the solenoid driver board.)
Correct image is attached. Luckily no harm done.

All back together and working just fine on Saturday night.

Thanks to vec-tor for pointing me in the right direction (to U5)... and hopefully this post will help others out as well.

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Hi,

I had a couple insert bulbs, first pacman row, 2nd A and energizer bulbs out. I replaced them and it wasn’t long, probably less than an hour (not exactly sure on time because I had walked away), and the bulbs went out again.

Is this a bad transistor and/or diode? If so, any idea which transistor? For the diode, can a 1N4004 be used?

Thanks!

I turned on BPM today and those bulbs are working again. Maybe I have a loose wire or solder needs to be reflowed somewhere.

I had previously posted in this thread how my high scores were being corrupted after turning power off and back on, I can report that doing the Dallas reset mod fixed the problem. There was some discussion that the faster reset of the original hardware sent junk data to NVRAM and that the slower initial reset from the Dallas chip would prevent it, hopefully this helps anyone else who see this issue.

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/pdf/Using%20a%20Dallas%20with%20Bally.pdf

I have a really clean and well redone (i.e. Alltek board, no signs of previous battery leak) Baby Pacman with just one remaining issue: shortly after playing, the sounds gets mixed up. The flutter sound may happen when playing the maze, or, most often, the start up (start button) pacman sound plays instead of other sounds (like when collecting pellets). I really want to narrow down the problem before taking anything apart. I've already had issues where I suspect one thing and more issues are created The boards are so clean and new-looking, my only thought is somehow the video TMS998 is involved because the pins appear rusty and it didn't have any heat sinks, but no luck so far. The testing - light flashes - all check out. One side note, is the game does not make the "sick ly" start sound when powered on. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you! Baby Pac-Man

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Returning to this post for ideas. I've replaced the IDC headers. Looked for broken traces and reseated chips. On average, the sound issue occurs between 5-10mins of playtime and is typically the start up sound on repeat. Again, if it is any indicator, the game never does the same "waka waka" sound when powering on the machine.

G'day everyone ive recently gotten my Baby Pac-man machine project working, although it has issues. Managed to find an original PCB lamp matrix board, bit the other lamp wiring was all rooted & dont think the lamps are reacting correctly. The U turn ball rollover behind the targets is also near impossible to hit and activate.

Base was all rooted too and i will need to replace. Because of this i am unsure to if anything is required to set the table angle - is the height just set for the machine to be flat & the table sits at the right height?

Screen has a red color burst issue which we are hoping will be fixed once we swap over a few board parts around the red color control on the vidiot-board. Also getting some diaganol lines through the screen...hoping they might fix up too once the red burst issue is resovled.

I purchased a new CPR PF & plastic set and plan to do a rebuild to make it as mint as possible.

Not after any help atm, but wanted to introduce myself as i am sure i will eventually & as i am in Australia, these machines are as rare as they get & sure i will need all the help i can get. Can play it currently - bloody love it. One of the coolest looking machines in arcade and pinball

Also, is anyone using LEDS in these and did they need to modify anything to make them work correctly?

Except for the fact the sockets suck and for gods sakes don't keep the power on when you installed LEDs on this game.

Have a few clean working Vidiot boards available. $275 plus shipping. Get em before eBay does.

Joined the club … again

This babypac has no sound at all

Also I do not recall which pots in the neck control what colors / brightness & contrast

Very excited as I always enjoyed the challenge

Seeking the large pacman plastic

Lower left

Lmk if you have a used non broken from
Perhaps a new plastic set install

Message me if you have one up for grabs

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I am seeking to replace the Vidiot Pots but Great Lake Electronics doesn’t have all the values required

Any help for another source

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Also be mindful of the foot print of pots, there are different sizes. The adjustment might be mounted differently as well. The stock is horizontal mount, the pic above is vertical. Not always a physical issue, but one way is usually easier to adjust based on how the pcb is in the cab. I second gpe as a pot source.

This isn’t one of the games that has issues when installed LEDs while powered on?
Unless you mean that in bending back the sockets, it’s super easy to short out things and blow that sucker up.

Hey Folks

Have a fully working baby pacman

All communication is fine

Game plays (very well actually)

But zero sound :-/
It was like this when I acquired the game

I have gotten help with replacing C107 & C109 with brand new caps on Vidiot Board and still no sound not even a hum from the speakers

Any ideas on what I may try next

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Anybody have any links for light up joysticks that work with baby Pac-Man?

I ordered some hollow joysticks and led light to run down the stick but the stick ended up being short about a inch

I couldn’t find anything a tad bit longer anyone got any ideas? Or do I need to custom out the whole thing?

If your game is working except for the sound then it should be something simple.
You should always start with checking for proper voltages + 5 volt and especially the unregulated 12 volt which powers the audio amp. Check and see if your speaker is good and their is no break in the speaker wires. In your picture their is nothing connected to J5 which is the plug for the speakers. Check the plug and other components for cold solder joints. I assume it's unplugged because you were working on the board but if not that would be your problem. If your sure the speaker is good, test it with an ohm meter or connect another audio source to it to make sure it's good, then work your way back though the circuit. The power amp U-34 (TDA-2002) U-33 op amp(LM3900) U-32 digital to analog converter. Make sure the volume pot is good and turned up. You can inject an audio signal into the input of the amp to see if it's working. The schematics are in the game manual and if you don't have the manual you can find it here.
https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/B/BabyPM.pdf

Theirs no joystick better than the original. You should not mess with perfection. Some things just need to be left alone.

I’ll keep the leaf switch joystick I just want it to light up

I changed to a clear ball up top and a hollow joystick

It’s still leaf switched I just need a longer joystick

This is purely for looks will not work any diffrent

Both, hah. The transistors are super sensitive to shorting when changing lights, so don't do it when powered on.

That’s because the transistors are crap and weren’t designed to run both lamps. You’re supposed to replace the blown ones with MCR106's which can handle two lamps at once. I haven’t had any issues whatsoever changing all the bulbs in my game while it was on

Okay folks

I made a boo boo somewhere

As mentioned my working Vidiot just had no sound

So I pulled the Board and tested the Volume Pot

It was confirmed working but I broke a leg off the pot by accident

Put the board back in now I only get 2 flashes and Vidiot doesn’t boot :-/

Any help is welcome

*** NOTE

This was caused by a poorly soldered repair jumper

Baby pacman is alive again - minus sounds

So I’m
Happy that’s it’s at least playable

There is another volume pot on the coin door, is that working? Are you getting ten flashes on the vidiot at boot up? The first two flashes are for the sound section. The sound section and video section have separate power supplies on the vidiot, make sure the sound power circuit is working.

Hi

Yes 6 from MPU and 10
From Vidiot board

The game plays and works great - just no sound

A very helpful and knowledgeable pinsider has been helping me and the board is going out for
Repair

Got the lit joystick added
I made do with what I have

I need to add a inch or so on the joystick and a new centering gromet

But it is lit, and works and it’s a leaf switch

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