(Topic ID: 116040)

Baby Pacman Club...waka waka waka

By ForceFlow

6 years ago


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There are 865 posts in this topic. You are on page 17 of 18.
#801 10 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

Ok thanks guys, makes so much sense.... I didnt even think about it keeping the playfield down because they wherent twisted at all they where just like sitting there confusing me ha ha.
So keep the lockdown bar (which is operated with the key) far away from the playfield if I have the game powered on then right? if its off I should be able to live my life freely right?
Finally if yours didnt have a lock bar what kept the control panel up so that you could play?... speaking of when you go buck wild on the joystick i feel like the lock bar starts to loosen any advice on that front besides not going buckwild of course?

Yes, just make sure that when it’s on if you’re working on the game, such as replacing lights, don’t get the lockdown anywhere near the playfield. Lay a rag over it or remove it.

The playfield easily slides forward and can stand up with the drop target bank resting on the bottom wooden panel. It’s very handy.

When playing it, it was awful without the lockdown! We had to hold it down with our free hand and be careful not to go too hard in the game!

#802 10 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

Finally if yours didnt have a lock bar what kept the control panel up so that you could play?... speaking of when you go buck wild on the joystick i feel like the lock bar starts to loosen any advice on that front besides not going buckwild of course?

I put weather stripping tape on my control panel on the top edge that sits on the glass. I think I used 1" thick weather stripping from Home Depot. They make lockdown bar gasket that you will pay a premium for but all it is, is weather stripping.

#803 10 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Yes, just make sure that when it’s on if you’re working on the game, such as replacing lights, don’t get the lockdown anywhere near the playfield. Lay a rag over it or remove it.
The playfield easily slides forward and can stand up with the drop target bank resting on the bottom wooden panel. It’s very handy.
When playing it, it was awful without the lockdown! We had to hold it down with our free hand and be careful not to go too hard in the game!

ok so Im half way through the forum.. take that back, just checked I'm on page 10. Its so fascinating reading through this and I'm not able to play my brand new baby pac so this is curbing that urge a bit...Obviously a bunch of the stuff doesnt make sense to me because Im super new to pinball stuff. I understand arcades a bit and i do have one other pin but in my brain i thought this game would be more arcade and less pin so i thought I would be able to handle it, obviously I was wrong, but luckily its working good for now knock on wood until I need to come back on here and ask you guys all sorts of questions. So ya thanks for all the info on here so far.

#804 10 months ago
Quoted from Lithonion:

I put weather stripping tape on my control panel on the top edge that sits on the glass. I think I used 1" thick weather stripping from Home Depot. They make lockdown bar gasket that you will pay a premium for but all it is, is weather stripping.

oh nice!!! great idea, i will pick some up. i feel like its practically spinning the lock and almost turning the key... maybe I need a new cam lock as well.

#805 10 months ago

I did it, I read all the way through and I'm so scared for when something goes wrong with my cab, because Im afraid I will have a super hard time fixing it if i ever can, but in the meantime while its practically working perfectly can you guys help me with something very tiny... coin return lights don't work, not the bulb, read through this whole thing and the whole manual and I couldn't find anything that pointed to it, strained my eyes on the manual, it might and probably is on there but I couldn't find it. is it a fuse down at the bottom of the cabinet floor?

Also I saw a section on here about a tinted piece of glass that is between the monitor and the glass marque, is that standard? because mine didn't have that and honestly don't know if it it even needs it. thanks guys

#806 10 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

For avngrhulk
Here’s how I usually work on my game. The lockdown bar is pretty annoying in this one.
I take it off when I’m working on it. This was out on location for many years at Fun Spot, and their techs always removed it. They also wrapped the bottom coil because the slightest touch will blow the fuse.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Where is this bottom coil you speak of?

#807 10 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

I did it, I read all the way through and I'm so scared for when something goes wrong with my cab, because Im afraid I will have a super hard time fixing it if i ever can, but in the meantime while its practically working perfectly can you guys help me with something very tiny... coin return lights don't work, not the bulb, read through this whole thing and the whole manual and I couldn't find anything that pointed to it, strained my eyes on the manual, it might and probably is on there but I couldn't find it. is it a fuse down at the bottom of the cabinet floor?
Also I saw a section on here about a tinted piece of glass that is between the monitor and the glass marque, is that standard? because mine didn't have that and honestly don't know if it it even needs it. thanks guys

Most monitors of this period had a dark plastic screen to help enhance the rich colors of the monitor.
It blacks out the background of the monitor so that the images can "pop" and not get washed out.

#808 10 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

Also I saw a section on here about a tinted piece of glass that is between the monitor and the glass marque, is that standard? because mine didn't have that and honestly don't know if it it even needs it. thanks guys

Here is my post on me replacing the plexi between the glass and CRT as well as a link the the actual plexi I purchased. It's almost an exact match. You will have to cut it and drill the holes.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/baby-pacman-clubwaka-waka-waka/page/11#post-4499297

https://www.estreetplastics.com/Plexiglass-Grey-Smoked-1-8-x-12-x-24-p/t801251224.htm

#809 10 months ago
Quoted from Lithonion:

Here is my post on me replacing the plexi between the glass and CRT as well as a link the the actual plexi I purchased. It's almost an exact match. You will have to cut it and drill the holes.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/baby-pacman-clubwaka-waka-waka/page/11#post-4499297
https://www.estreetplastics.com/Plexiglass-Grey-Smoked-1-8-x-12-x-24-p/t801251224.htm

Oh ya I saw your post actually, but thanks for referring to it again so I don't have to go back. Sadly my monitor doesn't have the brackets for the plexi like some other people have posted on here, didn't realize it until I opened it up the other day.

#810 10 months ago

Anybody have issues with both saucer coils burning up at the same time? I haven’t dug into it too far yet, but both are definitely fried. (.012ohm & .000ohm measurements) What would cause this? Bridge rectifier gone bad?

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#811 10 months ago
Quoted from REGNE:

Anybody have issues with both saucer coils burning up at the same time? I haven’t dug into it too far yet, but both are definitely fried. (.012ohm & .000ohm measurements) What would cause this? Bridge rectifier gone bad?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

WTF! I am shocked. I had issues when I FIRST got my machine. Believe one of the ram chips was bad and it locked on random solenoids.

#812 10 months ago
Quoted from REGNE:

Anybody have issues with both saucer coils burning up at the same time? I haven’t dug into it too far yet, but both are definitely fried. (.012ohm & .000ohm measurements) What would cause this? Bridge rectifier gone bad?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Try to replace U5 CA3081 transistor array... the IC's are at the "end-of-life"

#813 10 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

one of the ram chips

On MPU? 6801? Cause I’ve got a nvram for the 5101.

Quoted from vec-tor:

replace U5 CA3081

Thanks. Got a couple on order from Marco along with new coils. I too was headed to U5. Check thought process. A42C986B-68F5-4B3B-B8F9-B13BC640F208 (resized).jpegI’ll replace U3 as well.

Found fuse blown. 43vdc under Playfield. Over fused at 3A SB. Supposed to be 1A SB.

Wondering about A2 voltages. No voltage at TP1 or TP2 because no windings in the transformer. Correct? 54000C9B-C248-4A54-A80B-927C555CC593 (resized).jpeg
Other voltages are OK at TP3,TP4, &TP5(43vdc)

#814 10 months ago

Oops. Not Q39 & Q40. Q38 (for RH saucer) & Q39 (for LH saucer) are the drive transistors. I’ve also got some TIP102 coming for those.

#815 10 months ago

I am wondering. If coils lock on, how does the sleeve melt between the plunger and coil stop. (The plungers were at rest position)
Coils heated up, fuse blew, plungers went back to rest, sleeves then melted/continued to melt?

#816 10 months ago
Quoted from REGNE:

I am wondering. If coils lock on, how does the sleeve melt between the plunger and coil stop. (The plungers were at rest position)
Coils heated up, fuse blew, plungers went back to rest, sleeves then melted/continued to melt?

The U5 leaks... causes current to continue through coils...
heats up... not enough to energize plunger... melts plastic coil insides.

#817 10 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The U5 leaks... causes current to continue through coils...
heats up... not enough to energize plunger... melts plastic coil insides.

Understood.

Found Q38 shorted and removed it. Also removed U3 & U5. Washed board. Put in sockets for new CA3081s. Waiting on Marco now. Anyway to check the old CA3081s? Would you guys also replace Q39 in this situation?
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#818 10 months ago

Hi,

I just joined the club this week. I’ve wanted one for a long time and finally found one to bring home.

I want to swap out the incandescents for LEDs and was wondering if there is anything special that needs to be done on a Baby Pac-man to support LED bulbs and prevent flickering, ghosting, etc. Mine does not have the nice board with twist sockets, unfortunately.

Also, any recommendations on LED kits or brands? I have done several pins before and used Pinball Life non-ghosting and kits from Pinballbulbs. Just wondering if anybody thinks one brand is better looking or better performing on this particular pin.

Thanks!

#819 10 months ago
Quoted from bigbadmiker:

Hi,
I just joined the club this week. I’ve wanted one for a long time and finally found one to bring home.
I want to swap out the incandescents for LEDs and was wondering if there is anything special that needs to be done on a Baby Pac-man to support LED bulbs and prevent flickering, ghosting, etc. Mine does not have the nice board with twist sockets, unfortunately.
Also, any recommendations on LED kits or brands? I have done several pins before and used Pinball Life non-ghosting and kits from Pinballbulbs. Just wondering if anybody thinks one brand is better looking or better performing on this particular pin.
Thanks!

Baby Pac-Man happens to be the exception among Bally’s and you don’t have to do anything special to use LEDs. They just work! I prefer Comet but PL LEDs are fine too.

It’s a great game. I would highly suggest changing the rules to “carries over arrow memory” from ball to ball. And also make sure that your life doesn’t end when the ball drains. And only 3 lives!

The “extra baby” arrow memory feature improved the game for me immensely.

#820 10 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Baby Pac-Man happens to be the exception among Bally’s and you don’t have to do anything special to use LEDs. They just work! I prefer Comet but PL LEDs are fine too.
It’s a great game. I would highly suggest changing the rules to “carries over arrow memory” from ball to ball. And also make sure that your life doesn’t end when the ball drains. And only 3 lives!
The “extra baby” arrow memory feature improved the game for me immensely.

Great, thanks!

#821 10 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Baby Pac-Man happens to be the exception among Bally’s and you don’t have to do anything special to use LEDs. They just work! I prefer Comet but PL LEDs are fine too.
It’s a great game. I would highly suggest changing the rules to “carries over arrow memory” from ball to ball. And also make sure that your life doesn’t end when the ball drains. And only 3 lives!
The “extra baby” arrow memory feature improved the game for me immensely.

I think the default is that energizer memory is off while center arrows memory is on. I reverse that so center memory is off and energizer memory is on. It makes it more likely that the player can actually use their energizers decreasing the frustration there, but making it more difficult to get an extra ball... and provides motivation not to lose your ball to see the center arrows reset. To me, these are the perfect settings. I think when I played in the arcade when I was a kid, the energizer memory was off, so I'd think I would still want to keep it that way, but just too frustrating to lose energizers after you've worked so hard for them.

#822 9 months ago
Quoted from REGNE:

Waiting on Marco now.

Marco order came Saturday.

I put in the 2 new CA3081 into the sockets I had installed at U3 and U5.
I put in a TIP102 at Q38. I went ahead and replaced Q39 with a TIP102 as well.
Put in new coils/sleeves/diodes (AO-27-1300) at the saucers. (Note: Yellow wires should be to the lug with banded side of diode.)
New 1A SB fuse under playfield for the 43VDC. (fuse location is closest to RH flipper mech)

I initially had no flippers, but quickly found out I had .156 connections in the wrong place at the board.
Even with keys they can fit multiple locations.
Mistake: J7 was behind the board and I had connected J10 at J7. I had nothing at J10.

(I suggest first referencing the photos that were taken of the wiring to the solenoid driver board.)
Correct image is attached. Luckily no harm done.

All back together and working just fine on Saturday night.

Thanks to vec-tor for pointing me in the right direction (to U5)... and hopefully this post will help others out as well.

IMG_1992 (resized).JPGIMG_2048 (resized).JPG
1 week later
#823 9 months ago

Hi,

I had a couple insert bulbs, first pacman row, 2nd A and energizer bulbs out. I replaced them and it wasn’t long, probably less than an hour (not exactly sure on time because I had walked away), and the bulbs went out again.

Is this a bad transistor and/or diode? If so, any idea which transistor? For the diode, can a 1N4004 be used?

Thanks!

#824 9 months ago
Quoted from bigbadmiker:

Hi,
I had a couple insert bulbs, first pacman row, 2nd A and energizer bulbs out. I replaced them and it wasn’t long, probably less than an hour (not exactly sure on time because I had walked away), and the bulbs went out again.
Is this a bad transistor and/or diode? If so, any idea which transistor? For the diode, can a 1N4004 be used?
Thanks!

I turned on BPM today and those bulbs are working again. Maybe I have a loose wire or solder needs to be reflowed somewhere.

2 weeks later
#825 8 months ago

I had previously posted in this thread how my high scores were being corrupted after turning power off and back on, I can report that doing the Dallas reset mod fixed the problem. There was some discussion that the faster reset of the original hardware sent junk data to NVRAM and that the slower initial reset from the Dallas chip would prevent it, hopefully this helps anyone else who see this issue.

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/pdf/Using%20a%20Dallas%20with%20Bally.pdf

#826 8 months ago

I have a really clean and well redone (i.e. Alltek board, no signs of previous battery leak) Baby Pacman with just one remaining issue: shortly after playing, the sounds gets mixed up. The flutter sound may happen when playing the maze, or, most often, the start up (start button) pacman sound plays instead of other sounds (like when collecting pellets). I really want to narrow down the problem before taking anything apart. I've already had issues where I suspect one thing and more issues are created The boards are so clean and new-looking, my only thought is somehow the video TMS998 is involved because the pins appear rusty and it didn't have any heat sinks, but no luck so far. The testing - light flashes - all check out. One side note, is the game does not make the "sick ly" start sound when powered on. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you! Baby Pac-Man

IMG_1643 (resized).jpg

Added 153 days ago:

Returning to this post for ideas. I've replaced the IDC headers. Looked for broken traces and reseated chips. On average, the sound issue occurs between 5-10mins of playtime and is typically the start up sound on repeat. Again, if it is any indicator, the game never does the same "waka waka" sound when powering on the machine.

#827 8 months ago

G'day everyone ive recently gotten my Baby Pac-man machine project working, although it has issues. Managed to find an original PCB lamp matrix board, bit the other lamp wiring was all rooted & dont think the lamps are reacting correctly. The U turn ball rollover behind the targets is also near impossible to hit and activate.

Base was all rooted too and i will need to replace. Because of this i am unsure to if anything is required to set the table angle - is the height just set for the machine to be flat & the table sits at the right height?

Screen has a red color burst issue which we are hoping will be fixed once we swap over a few board parts around the red color control on the vidiot-board. Also getting some diaganol lines through the screen...hoping they might fix up too once the red burst issue is resovled.

I purchased a new CPR PF & plastic set and plan to do a rebuild to make it as mint as possible.

Not after any help atm, but wanted to introduce myself as i am sure i will eventually & as i am in Australia, these machines are as rare as they get & sure i will need all the help i can get. Can play it currently - bloody love it. One of the coolest looking machines in arcade and pinball

#828 8 months ago

Also, is anyone using LEDS in these and did they need to modify anything to make them work correctly?

#829 8 months ago
Quoted from RaoulJuke:

anyone using LEDS in these

Yes

Quoted from RaoulJuke:

did they need to modify anything to make them work correctly?

Nope

#830 8 months ago

Except for the fact the sockets suck and for gods sakes don't keep the power on when you installed LEDs on this game.

4 weeks later
#831 7 months ago

Have a few clean working Vidiot boards available. $275 plus shipping. Get em before eBay does.

1 week later
#832 7 months ago

Joined the club … again

This babypac has no sound at all

Also I do not recall which pots in the neck control what colors / brightness & contrast

Very excited as I always enjoyed the challenge

1 week later
#833 7 months ago

Seeking the large pacman plastic

Lower left

Lmk if you have a used non broken from
Perhaps a new plastic set install

Message me if you have one up for grabs

555C1586-A31A-43FE-B13D-10E2A16CAD6E (resized).jpeg
#834 7 months ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Seeking the large pacman plastic
Lower left
Lmk if you have a used non broken from
Perhaps a new plastic set install
Message me if you have one up for grabs
[quoted image]

Phoenix Arcade has the full set if you can't find the individual piece:

https://www.phoenixarcade.com/products/baby-pac-man/baby-pac-man-plastics

#835 7 months ago

I am seeking to replace the Vidiot Pots but Great Lake Electronics doesn’t have all the values required

Any help for another source

A79E17B5-BEA6-448C-A194-095DCE7A66B5 (resized).png
#836 7 months ago

Pretty much any pots with the same resistance and watt values will work.

I prefer to use cermet trimmers since they're sealed and there isn't an exposed wheel that can be accidentally bumped. GPE does have them--they're just called trimmers instead of potentiometers:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=122

#837 7 months ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Pretty much any pots with the same resistance and watt values will work.

Also be mindful of the foot print of pots, there are different sizes. The adjustment might be mounted differently as well. The stock is horizontal mount, the pic above is vertical. Not always a physical issue, but one way is usually easier to adjust based on how the pcb is in the cab. I second gpe as a pot source.

#838 7 months ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

Except for the fact the sockets suck and for gods sakes don't keep the power on when you installed LEDs on this game.

This isn’t one of the games that has issues when installed LEDs while powered on?
Unless you mean that in bending back the sockets, it’s super easy to short out things and blow that sucker up.

#839 7 months ago

Hey Folks

Have a fully working baby pacman

All communication is fine

Game plays (very well actually)

But zero sound :-/
It was like this when I acquired the game

I have gotten help with replacing C107 & C109 with brand new caps on Vidiot Board and still no sound not even a hum from the speakers

Any ideas on what I may try next

52DEC652-82B1-4B68-AD33-8832AA297E96 (resized).jpeg
#840 7 months ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Any ideas on what I may try next

Maybe the amplifier

#841 7 months ago

Anybody have any links for light up joysticks that work with baby Pac-Man?

I ordered some hollow joysticks and led light to run down the stick but the stick ended up being short about a inch

I couldn’t find anything a tad bit longer anyone got any ideas? Or do I need to custom out the whole thing?

#842 7 months ago

If your game is working except for the sound then it should be something simple.
You should always start with checking for proper voltages + 5 volt and especially the unregulated 12 volt which powers the audio amp. Check and see if your speaker is good and their is no break in the speaker wires. In your picture their is nothing connected to J5 which is the plug for the speakers. Check the plug and other components for cold solder joints. I assume it's unplugged because you were working on the board but if not that would be your problem. If your sure the speaker is good, test it with an ohm meter or connect another audio source to it to make sure it's good, then work your way back though the circuit. The power amp U-34 (TDA-2002) U-33 op amp(LM3900) U-32 digital to analog converter. Make sure the volume pot is good and turned up. You can inject an audio signal into the input of the amp to see if it's working. The schematics are in the game manual and if you don't have the manual you can find it here.
https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/B/BabyPM.pdf

#843 7 months ago
Quoted from Templewd:

Anybody have any links for light up joysticks that work with baby Pac-Man?
I ordered some hollow joysticks and led light to run down the stick but the stick ended up being short about a inch
I couldn’t find anything a tad bit longer anyone got any ideas? Or do I need to custom out the whole thing?

Theirs no joystick better than the original. You should not mess with perfection. Some things just need to be left alone.

#844 7 months ago

I’ll keep the leaf switch joystick I just want it to light up

I changed to a clear ball up top and a hollow joystick

It’s still leaf switched I just need a longer joystick

This is purely for looks will not work any diffrent

#845 7 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

This isn’t one of the games that has issues when installed LEDs while powered on?
Unless you mean that in bending back the sockets, it’s super easy to short out things and blow that sucker up.

Both, hah. The transistors are super sensitive to shorting when changing lights, so don't do it when powered on.

#846 7 months ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

Both, hah. The transistors are super sensitive to shorting when changing lights, so don't do it when powered on.

That’s because the transistors are crap and weren’t designed to run both lamps. You’re supposed to replace the blown ones with MCR106's which can handle two lamps at once. I haven’t had any issues whatsoever changing all the bulbs in my game while it was on

#847 6 months ago

Okay folks

I made a boo boo somewhere

As mentioned my working Vidiot just had no sound

So I pulled the Board and tested the Volume Pot

It was confirmed working but I broke a leg off the pot by accident

Put the board back in now I only get 2 flashes and Vidiot doesn’t boot :-/

Any help is welcome

*** NOTE

This was caused by a poorly soldered repair jumper

Baby pacman is alive again - minus sounds

So I’m
Happy that’s it’s at least playable

#848 6 months ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Okay folks
I made a boo boo somewhere
As mentioned my working Vidiot just had no sound
So I pulled the Board and tested the Volume Pot
It was confirmed working but I broke a leg off the pot by accident
Put the board back in now I only get 2 flashes and Vidiot doesn’t boot :-/
Any help is welcome
*** NOTE
This was caused by a poorly soldered repair jumper
Baby pacman is alive again - minus sounds
So I’m
Happy that’s it’s at least playable

There is another volume pot on the coin door, is that working? Are you getting ten flashes on the vidiot at boot up? The first two flashes are for the sound section. The sound section and video section have separate power supplies on the vidiot, make sure the sound power circuit is working.

#849 6 months ago
Quoted from gutz:

There is another volume pot on the coin door, is that working? Are you getting ten flashes on the vidiot at boot up? The first two flashes are for the sound section. The sound section and video section have separate power supplies on the vidiot, make sure the sound power circuit is working.

Hi

Yes 6 from MPU and 10
From Vidiot board

The game plays and works great - just no sound

A very helpful and knowledgeable pinsider has been helping me and the board is going out for
Repair

1 week later
#850 6 months ago

Got the lit joystick added
I made do with what I have

I need to add a inch or so on the joystick and a new centering gromet

But it is lit, and works and it’s a leaf switch

160D8AAB-AED4-4820-AB96-112AC318C0D9 (resized).jpeg
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