Ordered. Thanks

You will still have to manually clear those junk inputs I’m pretty sure. Which is done by going into the test menu and triggering the coin chute to clear the junk scores.

I’m so annoying, I got a new MPU, got the game working 100% played it for a few days and then the same issue happened again. RCV 40 is out, right saucer, right spinner and right inlane don’t register. This is ridiculous. It is intermittent but after a few days it becomes permanent...

Do you think a bad diode on one of them is screwing up the MPU??? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/save-my-baby-bpm-is-a-diode-is-issue

Have you tried to just pull all the connectors and reseat them on the board? I would try that and see what happens. I have had my left side not respond and reseating the connectors fixes it for awhile. I actually purchased a complete connector and pin kit and have yet to do it, I hate re-pinning.

After a bit my video goes out. (also does not play blind) I turn it off to let it cool down, turn it back on and it's OK.
Intervals happening more frequently lately. I believe TMS chip is going out.

I have a new TMS, but I want to add a fan to it first. Anyone else do this?
I remember some instructions out there somewhere...

Yes, I’ve reseated it a few times... I think there’s a bad diode somewhere on one of the switches that eventually takes out the whole row. It’s just so weird it works at first for a couple days...

Yes! thanks! That's where I saw the instructions earlier.
Wiring looks to be using 12 unregulated between (TP4) and ground (TP3)
How is that fan attached to the chip?

Dip40 fan (resized).png

Also, anybody simply use one of these to help cool the TMS9928?
https://www.amazon.com/NTE-ELECTRONICS-NTE448G-CLIP-PACKAGE/dp/B007Z7QAVY
NTE448G

NTE448G (resized).png

Tonight I went to play Baby Pac and I turned it on, started a game and it just sits there. It wont go any further. Any ideas where I should look? Im assuming its on the Vidiot board? I did smell something electrical burn very faintly.

I understand why people hate this game. Finally repinned J1 and my switch issues went away!
... except now completely at random half of my solenoids don’t respond.
I put it in solenoid test and took a video of it. Seriously.
Sometimes 2-4 cycles would work flawlessly, and then suddenly the drop target bank stops working, then the kick out hole stops working, then none of the memory targets.
THEN THE NEXT CYCLE THEY ALL WORK AGAIN.
How does this keep happening?!? Why do these issues seem totally and completely bizarre??

Crimps are good, just went and repinned the whole think and tugged on them to make sure they’re solid. Header pins have been replaced. And from my inspections I haven’t seen any cracked or cold solder joints. It’s very frustrating to track down. Game is working fine again and did so for about an hour.
This thing drives me nuts.

I am looking to buy a Baby Pac Man in nice condition but the screen is acting up. When turned on it is red like in the picture. After a while the red disappears suddenly and the screen looks normal. Any suggestions on what that could be? I am guessing caps but I really have no idea. Hope someone here knows.

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Its likely bad color pots on the vidiot pcb. At least the red pot, but Id change them all as the stock ones are low quality.

Thanks I Will look into that when I get the here.

Send me your Vidiot boards for repair or rebuild. Tech work and good price.

Fast turnaround too, definitely gets my recommendation for anyone who needs these repaired.

Thanks!

Hi Everyone, I've restored a few games through the years but haven't had the time or funds to work on one project in particular. It's mostly due to settling down and having way too many kids so all the fun projects were shelved for years. I now finally have the ability to get back to some of these projects and my favorite to finish is a Baby Pac Man restoration. I have everything I need to get this moving but a tube and chassis. Seems my old connections are either no longer in business or just do not have access to tubes any more. Can anyone make a recommendation where I could look to find a tube and chassis for a Wells Gardner k4800. I have come up with nothing since starting my search in the beginning of this year so I appreciate any tips, pointers, recommendations that anyone can point me in and thanks for any help!! I am so close to finishing this and putting it next to my Ms Pac. Man for hours of enjoyment!!

If you don't have a 4800, I would look for a k7000 instead. They are easier to find and a direct replacement.

I have a few games I’m looking for tubes and chassis on. Is KLOV the best place to look, any other recommendations

Most people probably aren't going to want to ship tubes and it would be expensive. I'd look around locally for operators/multicade people who pull CRT's to "upgrade" games to LCD monitors.

That is great to hear. I'll start looking for a k7000. I couldn't find much online about anyone using anything else other than an LCD and I really want to put a tube back in this game. Thanks again!

Hello all! I’m back to work on a new to me baby Pac! I’m having issues with a few playfield lights. I have replaced all of my transistors on the lamp board with the 106-6g as recommended. I still have a few issues left. I have also repinned all of my connectors. And checked the socket diodes on the remaining issues. Both the transistors and the diodes check out well on all remaining that do not light. However they all share the u1 chip in common I suspect that as the issue after all of this testing and replacing. If anyone has a playfield lightboard or know where I could get one I would love it to replace all of these stupid bayonet 555 sockets? Or any links to buy new 555 bayonet sockets? Thanks in advance!

Update replacing u2 on the lamp board fixed everything! She’s up and running 100 percent! Still would like to replace the lamps with the playfield board....

I'm working on a vidiot that is playing the wrong sounds. Vidiot fully boots and plays video in game with pinball. The sound tests function, communication tests pass. The sound cpu and sound rom are known working from another board. Sound rom socket has been replaced, cpu socket is original but has continuity on all pins. Also socketed/replaced u28 and u31 thinking it was an adressing issue but no change in symptoms. Any suggestions? Can the dac cause this issue?

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I am testing the vidiot in a fully working game that has had all of the connectors replaced. All the headers on project vidiot are also replaced.

After getting tunnel vision focusing on the output of the sound cpu and buzzing out all the traces, I started looking at the inputs to the sound cpu. Cpu to dac traces were good, but cpu to pia were not. One trace didn't have continuity and after folllwing it through many vias, the problem was obvious. At somepoint in this board's life, a tech who I will guess was aptly named Corey Crowbar, needed to remove the pia at U7 and decided to use the pcb as a fulcrum. In doing so, two traces were damaged. Jumper wires in place and the sound is back to fully working!

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Does anyone know what chip on the vidiot board may be causing this? I thought it might be the sync So I replaced all of the pots at once and have the same results. This happens at random however. Sometimes it boots up and the screen is perfectly fine and plays great, and other times it looks like the crap in picture here. Thanks in advance for any help. Sorry the pics are sideways I can’t swing them around on my mobile app☹️

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0E6BDD79-5CAA-4B58-8C53-7CE4EBB4CA21 (resized).jpeg

Adjust the horizontal hold/sync on the monitor. There is also the sync pot on the vidiot, and you might have to find the balance between the two pots.

Fixed it it was the horizontal frequency on the monitor itself

Got a nice Vidiot for sale. working..

Sold

Hi everyone

I'm nearing the finish line on my Baby Pac-Man restoration and I could use some help...

1. I'm getting a switch error at the EOS switch on the right flipper. Might be the diode. What is the spec of that diode there and can someone post a close-up pic of the right flipper wiring? Need to make sure it's wired correctly.

2. Left flipper is completely dead.

Thanks for the help. I look forward to sharing pics when it's all done.

EOS switch problem solved. There was a glob of solder grounding it.

Now on to the left flipper....

I have had a weird thing happen on my BPM a couple times and maybe someone has run into this. So, playing a game and I get a free pac like I just beat the high score when I just started playing. It can happen in the pinball section or the arcade section. Then when the game is over it lets me put in initials for getting a high score when I didn't even get close to one. For example, last night free pac, and I, on purpose killed off all my pacs and had a score under 20k. I put in my initials and it puts up a 6+ million score.

It's driving me nuts as it doesn't happen often but when it does I know it shouldn't. I have an NVRAM, cleaned contacts, checked for cold solder joints, re-seated all the cables. Again, it will probably play fine every night for a few weeks then when I forget about it, it happens. It's like it knows.....

I

Have a similar problem with the game randomly doing it right when I forget it was an issue, but on mine the right saucer stops working randomly.

Now I’ve got a NEW issue. A MAJOR issue. My baby Pac boots up and going into attract but the CRT is dead. If I press the video test on the Vidiot it shows up. But if I press the test on the coin door, nothing happens.
It worked and played just fine last night and today it shit itself :/
Any suggestions?? I’m pretty bummed out, I love BPM and I’ve finally got vacation next week to enjoy my games and rearrange my gameroom, so of course Baby decides to die on me.

Hi, has anyone rebuilt the cabinet with the plans from classicarcadecabinets.com? i'm trying to rebuild/recreate a Baby Pacman from just a few parts. I have only the glasses, control panel and playfield. I have managed to get the lights working on emulation, so it will definitley be a Frankenbaby!

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Restauration finished, happy about it

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Cut off my battery and want to add a battery holder. I have one that takes three AAs. Just solder positive wire to positive and negative to negative? Do I need a diode?

Not interested in NVRAM.

Thanks!

yes

To which question? Haha

I have all the stuff for battery pack already. So is the diode theory the same for a 3 AA pack? How do I know which end is the right one for the diode? Just make sure I have the + and - right?

You need the diode to block the board from trying to charge the battery pack

For AvngRHulk
Here’s how I usually work on my game. The lockdown bar is pretty annoying in this one.

I take it off when I’m working on it. This was out on location for many years at Fun Spot, and their techs always removed it. They also wrapped the bottom coil because the slightest touch will blow the fuse.

719857DF-FFA7-4731-935F-230923E492AA.jpeg

36D80E3F-024D-45A8-BED4-DCBF1C996390.jpeg

Yep. So if it’s a 3 AA pack, does it matter where I put the diode in the pack?