(Topic ID: 286246)

Baby Pac-Man Vidiot keeps rebooting...

By JT-Pinball

9 months ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 21 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by THE_LOCATION
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

#1 9 months ago

I am working on a Baby Pac-Man it was working fine, then it started to crash after it was running a few hours. The light on the Vidiot would stay on solid green. If i reboot it it would flash twice and stop. If I let it cool off the game will boot then after a game or two same thing. I twist the socket and it dose not seem to make a difference. I can't see it being the Vidiot EProms? Thoughts?

#2 9 months ago

Sounds like it could be either overheating issue or expansion due to heat issue.

The first thing I would do is see how hot U16 gets, and possibly add a heatsink to it.

The second thing would be to check for cracked solder joints

After that, since the traces and pads are rather fragile on the vidiot board, I'd inspect for lifted traces or pads. And also hold the board up to a strong light to see if there are any broken traces. Sometimes this is the best way to catch those.

#3 9 months ago

I think it’s the power diodes where the 12v comes in. I think there are three. Lower left corner of the board.

#4 9 months ago

If the video controller is failing(tms9928) it would that too.

#5 9 months ago

As your last resort I do repair these boards.

#6 9 months ago

So when this happens you usually are playing the game and the video goes haywire and the play field about half stops working.

#7 9 months ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Sounds like it could be either overheating issue or expansion due to heat issue.
The first thing I would do is see how hot U16 gets, and possibly add a heatsink to it.
The second thing would be to check for cracked solder joints
After that, since the traces and pads are rather fragile on the vidiot board, I'd inspect for lifted traces or pads. And also hold the board up to a strong light to see if there are any broken traces. Sometimes this is the best way to catch those.

I have looked the board over pretty good but will do it again. I have experience in having a small nic cause big issues... Between you and jj44114 i am inclined to think this is probably a failing u16.... Thanks ForceFlow

#8 9 months ago
Quoted from jj44114:

I think it’s the power diodes where the 12v comes in. I think there are three. Lower left corner of the board.

Ill check these out too just to be safe.

#9 9 months ago
Quoted from jj44114:

As your last resort I do repair these boards.

How about I pay you for your time and you help me out if I get in a jam? The fun of this for me is bringing life back into these games I loved as a kid for my kids and there kids to enjoy. The more I learn the easier it is for me to do that. Thanks for all your help on Pinside! Its nice having folks like you here.

#10 9 months ago

I am by no means even an intermediate level repair guy when it comes to pin boards. That said, one thing I look for first, is stable 5v and 12v. When I hear reboot, that’s what I immediately think. A simple multimeter can check both. Too low 5v and the MPU can act up. Many times the capacitors that provide a stable flow of power just wear out.

Additionally, any chance I get to reflow connectors, I do as well. Tends to fix many ghosts in the machine....

One final thing. If you have the original MPU in the machine, i hope it doesn’t still have the original battery on it, does it?
- My MPU was destroyed when I bought my machine years ago and I put in an ultimate MPU.

If you don’t have this, a great reference tool as well.
http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/babypac.htm

Go with jj44114 suggestions first though, much more knowledgeable on boards than I am!

#11 9 months ago

Are leads on the large video chip tarnished to black? They may also be brittle. I had one of these machines MANY years ago and had to do some work on the same board. If the leads are tarnished you will want to carefully clean them. You need to be really careful since leads that are blackened are also rotted and the leads will break off. Also some of the DIP sockets aren't the greatest. My chip was flaky so I had put in a new socket, fresh chip, and slipped on a 40-pin DIP heat sink to help ensure that chip stayed cool.

I'm sure that there are a few people on here that repair them if you get completely stuck.

#12 9 months ago
Quoted from JT-Pinball:

How about I pay you for your time and you help me out if I get in a jam? The fun of this for me is bringing life back into these games I loved as a kid for my kids and there kids to enjoy. The more I learn the easier it is for me to do that. Thanks for all your help on Pinside! Its nice having folks like you here.

Lets try to solve it on here first.

#13 9 months ago

It always helps to post clear closeup pics of the board here. We might see a problem.

#14 9 months ago
Quoted from alexanr1:

I am by no means even an intermediate level repair guy when it comes to pin boards. That said, one thing I look for first, is stable 5v and 12v. When I hear reboot, that’s what I immediately think. A simple multimeter can check both. Too low 5v and the MPU can act up. Many times the capacitors that provide a stable flow of power just wear out.
Additionally, any chance I get to reflow connectors, I do as well. Tends to fix many ghosts in the machine....
One final thing. If you have the original MPU in the machine, i hope it doesn’t still have the original battery on it, does it?
- My MPU was destroyed when I bought my machine years ago and I put in an ultimate MPU.
If you don’t have this, a great reference tool as well.
http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/babypac.htm
Go with jj44114 suggestions first though, much more knowledgeable on boards than I am!

Thanks alexanr1 I guess i could have mentioned a few other things about the game. I have rebuilt the power supply in this game and power is stable. I have also repined the male and female connectors on almost the entire game. All power and signal connectors have been rebuilt for sure. I have a replacement MPU in the game so no worries on that. Im pretty sure this is limited to the vidiot

#15 9 months ago
Quoted from alexanr1:

I am by no means even an intermediate level repair guy when it comes to pin boards. That said, one thing I look for first, is stable 5v and 12v. When I hear reboot, that’s what I immediately think. A simple multimeter can check both. Too low 5v and the MPU can act up. Many times the capacitors that provide a stable flow of power just wear out.
Additionally, any chance I get to reflow connectors, I do as well. Tends to fix many ghosts in the machine....
One final thing. If you have the original MPU in the machine, i hope it doesn’t still have the original battery on it, does it?
- My MPU was destroyed when I bought my machine years ago and I put in an ultimate MPU.
If you don’t have this, a great reference tool as well.
http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/babypac.htm
Go with jj44114 suggestions first though, much more knowledgeable on boards than I am!

I agree on the 5v for the video section. Might be failing. Power on, let it sit, see how hot the regulator gets.

#16 9 months ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Are leads on the large video chip tarnished to black? They may also be brittle. I had one of these machines MANY years ago and had to do some work on the same board. If the leads are tarnished you will want to carefully clean them. You need to be really careful since leads that are blackened are also rotted and the leads will break off. Also some of the DIP sockets aren't the greatest. My chip was flaky so I had put in a new socket, fresh chip, and slipped on a 40-pin DIP heat sink to help ensure that chip stayed cool.
I'm sure that there are a few people on here that repair them if you get completely stuck.

Thanks Robotworkshop Yeah I have had my fill of crappy sockets. I am working to fix a Williams System 6 and had to pull every corroded gold contact RN Socket. Used up my supply of 24 pin EProm sockets and had to get more just in case the socket on the Vidiot was bad. I'm going to pull it out of game here this afternoon. I ordered a new chip for the TMS9928 at U16. Ill order a heatsink too as you and ForceFlow have suggested. Yes I know plenty of people repair them, but expanding my knowledge to repair them myself is part of the fun.

#17 9 months ago
Quoted from jj44114:

It always helps to post clear closeup pics of the board here. We might see a problem.

Ill pull it out and post a few pics this afternoon.

#18 9 months ago
Quoted from jj44114:

I agree on the 5v for the video section. Might be failing. Power on, let it sit, see how hot the regulator gets.

Thanks jj44114 I will set it up on the bench when I get it out. this afternoon. I was going to test the power diodes and the output of the power supply as you and alexanr1 have suggested. I mentioned rebuilding the power supply earlier that was the -132 not the one on the Vidiot.

#19 9 months ago

You said " If I reboot it it would flash twice and stop". Based on that I think the audio portion, including its voltage regulator(VR2)is ok. Focus on VR1 checking voltage at test point 2. It's the one that supplies 5v to to the video section of the board.

#20 9 months ago

you can also remove U16 and power on for a while to see if the board still crashes. If its a regulator problem it probably will.

#21 9 months ago

Here is something from pinrepair.com that might help. http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/babypac.htm

"3rd Flash.
After a pause, the 6809 CPU chip at U8 attempts to test the program EPROM at U12. This is done using a chksum routine. If the chksum is correct, the third LED flash is shown. If there is no third LED flash, the EPROM at U12 is bad (or its socket or a trace is broken going to U12)."\

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside