I'm thinking same as Quench, probably an open coil. As he said, check the thin coil winding wire, it may be green in color as opposed to the red used on this coil. In the pic below, the yellow arrows are pointing at the coil wires he was referring to. You may find it broken off one end where it attaches to one of the solder lugs. If you should find that to be the case, you can use sandpaper to remove the protective coating from the wire so it can take solder and then re-solder it to the solder lug. If the wire won't reach, you may be able to unwrap it from the coil for a turn, cut off the excess, sand off the coating from the wire, and then solder it to the lug. If you have any questions about the process, i can provide more pics and info. Hopefully it's something simple like that. Also, if you determine it's a bad coil and can't seem to fix it using the suggestions above, replacements are available.
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Start with the basics: test all your voltages at their test points on the rectifier board and solenoid driver board (5v, 12v, etc) and list them here if you like. You'll definitely have trouble if voltages are missing/incorrect.

Which board are you getting those readings from? I just realized this game uses a different solenoid driver board than other classic Bally's--this one has a lamp/solenoid combo board (AS-2518-107) that's similar but different (in particular, no high voltage section for gas discharge displays)... Anyway, here's the schematic i pulled from ipdb, the test points are here:
Screenshot_20190409_093049_com.google.android.apps.docs(1).jpg

Maybe I'm looking at this wrong, but it looks like TP1 is 13-16 unregulated DC, TP2 is +5VDC, TP3 is ground (put black probe of meter on this test point for checking the DC voltages on that board), TP4,5,6,7 all appear to be +5VDC as well? Gotta admit, I'm probably nearing the boundaries of my knowledge here...